How much would everyone expect to pay? (including labour)

Thanks.

i think my old man got quoted around 500?

except they found out it was a blown fuse, rather than a stuffed altinator.

i had mine recored not that long ago and it cost me around $220 roughly, but i didnt hav it replaced just recored

just bought a new one for my te was 260 now jut gotta fit it i suppose they'd charge max 1hours labor

Going through Mitsu spares, I'd say $400 for the alternator, and about $100 to fit it, in labour.
In my experiences, the alternator's voltage regulator causes most of the problems.. so it might be the cheaper and better option to replace that.

when I did the alternator on my TS i was quoted
$180 if I take it out
$290 if they do it
but this is for a rebuild.

im not sure about a third gen, but on a second gen its dead easy to remove/refit the alternator. Like, read out of the repair manual and follow kind of easy.

3rd gen magnas are a bigger pain in the **** to pull out the alternator than all other magnas!

Phil just replaced his...

This is phil, mr i dont know what a spanner is...
if he can do it any one can!

Seems quite a tight space in my TL 3.5L wagon.. and remember if you cause the belt to break, it can get into the timing belt.. which has been known to cause collisions between pistons and valves..

It is quite difficult to get at on TL models - the A/C piping makes removing it from the top challenging, but if you remove the radiator it's a lot easier.

You can remove the thermo fan to get it out, the third gen 3.0 is the easiest as there is just enough room to get the alt out, the second gen alt is a PITA with the v6, the 3.5 third gen needs the fan removed or you will find yourself bending pipes out of the way

How does it end up in the timing belt? that is all under cover.

Replaced my alternator myself recently.

Just needed. 11,12 and 14 mm sockets.

1. disconnect battery . oh thats a long 8 mm socket or some sort of spanner.

2. Unplug and unbolt leads to alternator. watch for the rubber seal that goes on the plug.


3. send up a socket on an extension inbetween the power steering drive belt and the air con compressor. there's a tensioner bolt there on the tensioner trolley ( the tensioner pully is on a trolley, this trolley can move up and down.. the bolt forces it down to hold the tension on. )
Wind out the bolt visible on the tensioner trolley so that the tension can come off the belt.(or remove the bolt that holds the pulley on, this also lets off tension, making it easier to get it sorted, but its a bit awkward to get the bolt back on again. I managed it , and I work in IT, and use kmart socket sets. )


4. remove the belt off the alternator

5. two bolts hold the alternator on. I couldn't get a socket and wratchet on the lower one, so I used vice grips on a socket to get it started.
( There's vice grip wratchet device at bunnings ?)

6. the alternator wasn't going anywhere when the mounting bracket was still attached to the head. So managed to get socket and wratchet in between the fans and hoses in the area, to get at the bolts that hold that bracket on, and that was solved.

7. rotate the alternator to be pulley up and it comes up as the radiator hose bends out of the way.

Install is reverse of removal, taking care with the belt, make sure its on each pulley correctly and tensioned with the bolt...

Just a few corrections


Replaced my alternator myself recently.

Just needed. 11 10,12 and 14 mm sockets.

1. disconnect battery . oh thats a long 8 mm socket or some sort of spanner. if std terminals, 10mmspanner

2. Unplug and unbolt leads to alternator. watch for the rubber seal Plastic cap, has a little catch that can sometimes be a little hard to unclip to open that goes on the plug.


3. send up a socket on an extension inbetween the power steering drive belt and the air con compressor. there's a tensioner bolt there on the tensioner trolley ( the tensioner pully is on a trolley, this trolley can move up and down.. the bolt forces it down to hold the tension on. )
Wind out the bolt visible on the tensioner trolley so that the tension can come off the belt.(or remove the bolt that holds the pulley on, this also lets off tension, making it easier to get it sorted, but its a bit awkward to get the bolt back on again. I managed it , and I work in IT, and use kmart socket sets. ) You actually need to loosen the lock nut first, then back off the tensioner bolt to allow the pulley to move and release the belt


4. remove the belt off the alternator

5. two bolts hold the alternator on. I couldn't get a socket and wratchet on the lower one, so I used vice grips on a socket to get it started.
( There's vice grip wratchet device at bunnings ?)


6. the alternator wasn't going anywhere when the mounting bracket was still attached to the head. So managed to get socket and wratchet in between the fans and hoses in the area, to get at the bolts that hold that bracket on, and that was solved.

best method, loosen the 14mm nut that holds the bottom bracket, then remove the 12mm bolt and the alt will swing down. Remove the bracket using a 14mm with a short ext or a 14mm tube socket

7. rotate the alternator to be pulley up and it comes up as the radiator hose bends out of the way.

Install is reverse of removal, taking care with the belt, make sure its on each pulley correctly and tensioned with the bolt...

With the 3.5, it makes it a lot easier to remove the RH fan, this is easy, just 4 10mm bolts, the 2 bottom ones do not need to come out, they loosen and the fan lifts out

Also tap the bush on the lower bracket a little but back to assist in getting back on the bracket. This is a sliding arrangement and will tighten agian once you have tightened the bolt again


How does it end up in the timing belt? that is all under cover.
The acc belts are known when they break to wrap around the main pulley and cut through the cover, they can then either jam in the timing belt or wrap around the lower sprocket thus the timing belt slips and then you are in big trouble

$160 total for a reconditioned alternator from ebay :)
I was able to drive at day on a 12.5 volt alternator , but it was a bit dodgy at night.

Ah, when you swing the alternator down you get some room to get at the mounting bracket attachment bolts ..

If you have trouble with the ratchet not being able to move enough angle, start the bolts moving with vice grips on the socket extension.

Ah, when you swing the alternator down you get some room to get at the mounting bracket attachment bolts ..

If you have trouble with the ratchet not being able to move enough angle, start the bolts moving with vice grips on the socket extension.

Guys, please do not treat your tools like this, if you do not have the correct tools, go and buy them or even better, get it fitted by someone who does.

In most cases, the torque required to remove the 2 bolts that hold on the upper bracket would be far greater than a "pair of vice grips" could give