Hey guys, my unichip is being installed right now :D hope to get 200+ kw out of it. LOL jk. will post up the dyno's tonight after I pick it up.

Hey guys, my unichip is being installed right now :D hope to get 200+ kw out of it. LOL jk. will post up the dyno's tonight after I pick it up.

Sweet, Will be good too b4 n after results, I have heard that much crap about these things, good n bad... I have a UNI chip but I havent installed it cos I didnt think it would do SFA.. but by all means I will be watching for the dyno's :D

I have been happy with my unichip, its not so much the power and torque gained but the way it is delivered that makes a difference.

Kool, where are you getting it done???

Kool, where are you getting it done???

Got it done at CnJ Motorsport in underwood. Pretty happy with the result :D 127.3 kW at the wheel. I'm not that familiar with a dyno graph so I dont really know how to read it, but I do know it has that figure in big red writing lol. I'll scan the dyno a bit later and post it up. So whats that like 170kW at the fly? :D 155kW standard so that not bad :D

Got it done at CnJ Motorsport in underwood. Pretty happy with the result :D 127.3 kW at the wheel.

It's hard to know if that's good or not if they didn't do a before/after dyno print out for you.


I'm not that familiar with a dyno graph so I dont really know how to read it, but I do know it has that figure in big red writing lol. I'll scan the dyno a bit later and post it up. So whats that like 170kW at the fly? :D

Pretty much impossible to say what it is at the fly wheel, but using the ol' "horespower at the wheels is approximately equal to kW at the engine" theory - then yes, you could say it would be roughly 170kW at the engine.

Without back to back dyno runs before tune and post tune, it is redundant to make an argument either way for any increase in power figures. You will have to rely on your bum dyno.

Without back to back dyno runs before tune and post tune, it is redundant to make an argument either way for any increase in power figures. You will have to rely on your bum dyno.

way to burst my bubble lol

its got 2 lines on the graph so i guess thats the before/ after? I'll post it up later so u guys can decipher it for me. :)

way to burst my bubble lol

its got 2 lines on the graph so i guess thats the before/ after? I'll post it up later so u guys can decipher it for me. :)
The 2 lines will most probably be for power curve and A/F (Air/Fuel) ratio or Torque (Tractive effort on the dyno). If he did a before and after you will have 2 dyno printouts.

127kw is altight for a stock auto, its about 10kw more than most stock auto's that i've heard of

Not bad. How much did u pay? 1250$?

Well here is the dyno graph. Does it tell you tourque on this? Also, he told me when I rang up that it would include a before and after dyno printout. So if this isnt it I will ring them up tomorrow and find out whats going on.

I paid $350 for the chip 2nd hand and $550 for isntallation and tune. $900 all up.

Edit: If someone could list all the info that graph tells me that would be great :)

Red line/s are before, Blue line/s are after. The upper graph shows your power. The way I'm reading it - you've picked up over 7kW at the wheels from the tune, which isn't bad at all!!!

The lower graph is probably some form of torque measurement (based on the axis label "iNm"). Not really relevant, apart from the fact that it shows an improvement. Out of interest sake - it would be nice to see before/after AFR graph - so you can see how much fuel they take out to get those results.

i got the same results for $30

oh here we go

i got the same results for $30

? i c

so does this all mean I don't have 127.3 kW atw?

so does this all mean I don't have 127.3 kW atw?

You do, but only at 5200 revs in 3rd gear.

See your revs down the bottom? And the line on the graph corresponds to how much power in KW you make at each RPM.

Looks like a nice little gain across the entire rev range with a more noticeable gain from 4000rpm to redline. Should be a bit punchier up top I'd imagine.


i got the same results for $30

Would you like a dunce hat for your efforts? Difference is if this guy ever wants to add more mods he can totally play with the ignition and a/f ratios to suit whatever application he choses, whether it be FI or NA, whereas you, cannot. The Unichip is a proven method of getting some extra power and isn't a home made milk carton mod with some alfoil thrown in for good measure.

Correct me im wrong here, but shouldnt dyno's be run in fourth gear?... but anyways at least you can see a decent gain out of it, might even install the one I have n also do a b4 n after check (well I have the b4 already, sitting at 117atw)...

Correct me im wrong here, but shouldnt dyno's be run in fourth gear?... but anyways at least you can see a decent gain out of it, might even install the one I have n also do a b4 n after check (well I have the b4 already, sitting at 117atw)...


its a 4 speed auto dude

there is one more thing too... since I got the install done I have noticed my car is idling very roughly, sometimes it shudders as if it is gonna stall. It is also idling a little lower than it used to.

there is one more thing too... since I got the install done I have noticed my car is idling very roughly, sometimes it shudders as if it is gonna stall. It is also idling a little lower than it used to.


Raise the idle a bit via the screw on the throttle body

your before reads 120kwatw at 5500rpm and after 127.3kwatw at 5200rpm. So you get top power at little earlier than before which sorta means you dont need to rev it as hard too long. Good result for $900

Dam_ooyar, you will need another before dyno made the same day as the upgrade to get comparison of of before and after result.

its a 4 speed auto dude
lmao, sht didnt even think of it being an auto.....:nuts:

your before reads 120kwatw at 5500rpm and after 127.3kwatw at 5200rpm. So you get top power at little earlier than before which sorta means you dont need to rev it as hard too long. Good result for $900

Dam_ooyar, you will need another before dyno made the same day as the upgrade to get comparison of of before and after result.

hmm ok ill have a peak at it thisarvo. If the before dyno reads 120kW atw, and standard can be estimated at approx 115kW atw does that mean the mods I did before I put in the unichip (muffler, panel filter etc) gave me 5 kW atw? Or does it not work that way?

hmm ok ill have a peak at it thisarvo. If the before dyno reads 120kW atw, and standard can be estimated at approx 115kW atw does that mean the mods I did before I put in the unichip (muffler, panel filter etc) gave me 5 kW atw? Or does it not work that way?

This was all explained in the other thread you made earier. HERE (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49769&page=3)

The filter it'sef wouldn't have done much in terms of peak power, the muffler would have added about 5kW or so. Having had these mods already, probablly gave the tuner more scope to work with when tuning the Unichip.

Say you had a stock car and then had the Unichip fitted you might have gotten (example only) 5kW at the wheels increase.

But having the other mods already, allowed more room for adjustment, giving you 7kW at the wheels. All the modifications work with each other.

Just like a set of extractors work ok on their own, but really help when you fit cams and vise-versa.

Where did u get second hand chip from?

Where did u get second hand chip from?

If you search e-bay and other car forums you can pick them up cheap. I know the Ford Falcons use the same model Unichip as our cars.

My cousin picked up a 2nd hand unit with additional boost controller for $150!! off the Ford forums a while back. I think you need to look for a 'series C' type.

ok i think everyone has heard enough from me on this topic, so I will leave it there.

Ill just say I am quite happy with the result. The car runs alot better and it certainly has more kick to it. Definitely a noticeable difference. Will be curious to see how my fuel economy is effected running 98 ron fuel, be it good or bad. Should be good though.

Anyone thinking of doing this :thumbsup: go for it!

If you search e-bay and other car forums you can pick them up cheap. I know the Ford Falcons use the same model Unichip as our cars.

My cousin picked up a 2nd hand unit with additional boost controller for $150!! off the Ford forums a while back. I think you need to look for a 'series C' type.

I thought it was an A type box that went with magnas.

Anyone in the know provide info on why power drops off at only 5250? Is it the cam profile or is fuel maxed out already?

it would have to be the cam or inlet exh restrictions, stock fuel system will support almost 200kw atw

Anyone in the know provide info on why power drops off at only 5250? Is it the cam profile or is fuel maxed out already?

I'd say the cam too. The fuel is defiantly not maxing out, you can see that even the though the peak power is reached earlier, it still makes more power at the previous peak rpm point and manages to make the same amount of power at 5800rpm as it did before at 5500rpm.

so if i reach my peak power at 5300 rpm say, does that mean i should change gears at that point to get the most out of my engine?

If I'm reading the dyno chart correctly, which I'm probably not, it looks like your engine is making maximum torque at about 4400rpm. I'd be shifting at around that point.

shift at 5600rpm

i read you need to shift atleast 1-1200rpm above max torque for best performance

usually when you shift the engine drops 2k rpm so shifting at 5600rpm when it hits next gear youd be doing approx 4600rpm right where max torque is :) if you shift at 4400rpm it drops out of the powerband

but your auto so stick it in d and floor it and it should change just short of 6k just as it should

it would have to be the cam or inlet exh restrictions, stock fuel system will support almost 200kw atw

Who's making 200kw at the wheels with stock fuel system???

Who's making 200kw at the wheels with stock fuel system???

me :D

me :D


Its not stock, there's an extra injector for extra fuel.....

Its not stock, there's an extra injector for extra fuel.....

that is true, but i am saying it can be done... my extra inj is rarley in use...

and hahaha i dragged off a worked VN 5L the othernight, big deal you say... i was running on 4.5 cyl :shock: (one cyl totally down, and the other only occasionally firing) :badgrin:

me :D

You're not making 200kW at the wheels, and you're fuel system isn't stock.....

:liar:

You're not making 200kW at the wheels, and you're fuel system isn't stock.....

:liar:


auto awd made 188kw now put the engine in a manual fwd and there is easily 200kw atw...

ohh yeah there is one extra injector in there, but there is room in the other 6 more before they are maxed out, and the extra inj is used for seal and little else.... i did upgrade the fuel pump, not cos it was underrated but cos it almost had it... :badgrin: nothing else is modified at all lines fpr etc...

but if i do upgrade the performance some more as planned i need new injectors :(

How much is this unichip and tune?

How much was the engine management mods on your car Andrewd

How much is this unichip and tune?

How much was the engine management mods on your car Andrewd

who knows it has the sprintex ecu, i just replaced the locked ecu with an off the shelf one and tuned that, cost $800 supplied fitted and tuned

hmm i no this probs sounds crazy but I find I get a better start if I use the tippy over normal drive. Seems to hesitate a little when its in drive.

Anyone in the know provide info on why power drops off at only 5250? Is it the cam profile or is fuel maxed out already?

Imho the inlet manifold is holding it back in the top end. In a few wks I'll prove it :D

People are throwing the peak power figure around as usual, but I can see it makes more driveable power and bet it uses a lot less fuel to do it.