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Dave262
17-07-2007, 12:29 PM
Hi all,

I'm just after a bit of an opinion of what I should do here... I've got a few fairly major problems with the TP right now... so serious to the point that I'm worried about driving more than 15 mins in it now...

Some of you might know that I haven't had the greatest luck with this car, and that luck has since remained unchanged. Before I inherited the car (didn't cost me a cent!), it had apparently been sitting in the driveway without being used for nearly a year. It had then been thrashed heavily for about 3 months, before being left unused in the driveway again due to some major engine and suspension issues.

After getting the car, I had it roadworthied, which only required most the suspension bushings to be replaced and every tyre replaced. About 2 months later, it started eating through water, running poorly, and smoking a fair bit, which turned out to be a major head gasket leak in cylinder 4. The head was removed and the gasket replaced, and the valve stem seals were also replaced. Internally from a visual inspection, everything looked fine. Just a little rust on the piston face in the fourth cylinder, which has all disappeared now. The rings are fine, as are the valves. The oxygen sensor was also replaced at this stage. The rear shockers failed, and I did a 2 wheeler around a fairly sharp corner as a result (only at 50k/h!), which made me replace those as soon as I could.

A little while after this both the centre and main muffler caved in, and restricted the flow so much, that it took me 15 seconds to get from 0 - 60! I had both mufflers replaced (the cat converter was fine). I then had issues with my transmission slipping, which turned out to be that the oil required a change, as it had been filled with some cheap crappy no-name fluid, which was not doing much good for it. This was changed, along with a new transmission filter. The economy then became worse and worse, and I discovered that the injectors seemed to be sticking, so I got some blue top ones from a second gen, which solved the problem and brought the economy back down from the 18+ L/100k down to about 13L/100k. I then installed a set of roller rockers from a second gen, which brought the economy down to 11L/100k. Then out of nowhere suddenly fuel economy jumped back up to about 15L/100k, due to the TPS failing. I replaced this and it went back down to 13L/100k. I then found that the atmospheric sensor in the AFM was faulty, so I replaced this and the economy went back down to 10L/100k. Soon after it went back up to about 16L/100k again, and I discovered the coolant temperature sensor had also failed. Replaced this and it went back down to about 12L/100k. The front shockers then blew on the car, and had to be replaced. By this stage when I had to get the brakes replaced, they discovered that one of the rear shockers had blown again, as there was shock absorber oil everywhere. Luckily this was replaced under warranty, as they had only been in there for 3 months.

Just recently, economy has gone all the way up to about 17-18L/100k, and most of it seems to be due to the timing chain guides almost cut through. It is also vibrating horrendously, which is really annoying. Engine mounts for the past 8 months have only been lasting for about 2 weeks at the most (I stopped replacing them after 3 sets). While working underneath the car I noticed that the bump stops on the front shockers are disintegrated, and going over bumps the wheels sometimes slam into the top of the wheel well. Also the drivers side wheel has some massive castor on it (wheel is really close to the front side of the wheel well). The wheel currently sits about 2cm from the front of the wheel well, and scrapes whenever I hit a bump while turning a corner. I had the suspension checked at pedders, and they indicated that the crossmember had been bent, and was actually from a TM/TN, and that this crossmember is actually not the same as the TP one (it has bolt holes etc. in slightly different positions, and is weaker). I have managed to source a new main crossmember and centre member, and am replacing it and getting the chains fixed this week. The ECU has also been replaced as it was misfiring injectors and reading sensor inputs incorrectly.

The most recent problems other than the crossmember and the chains however is that it is leaking oil like crazy from the oil pressure switch (cheap fix I know), which is managing to lose about half a sump of oil in about 15 minutes of driving! The front of the sump is also leaking oil, as is the distributor where it connects into the engine. It also appears to have been leaking from around the rear end seal too, although I cannot confirm this until I have a chance to remove the plate from the end of the transmission to check the main drive plate. The car is leaking the oil all over the extractors, and as such is smoking off quite severely, so much so that when I stop at traffic lights there is smoke coming out from under the bonnet. The PCV vent lines I have put fuel filter inline to help stop large amounts of oil being dumped into the throttle body. They have been working really well. However... looking inside these filters, there is a large amount of creamy white-coloured oil, which to me suggests there is water in the oil, so I now fear that there is either a crack somewhere in the cylinder or head block, there is a leaky head gasket, or the water jacket under the timing cover is leaking.

I just don't know what to do! I am trying to keep it going till next year when I plan on getting a new car (unlikely a Mitsubishi, as you can understand from what I've experienced!), although these problems are really making me wonder if it would even survive that long! It's hard to believe, but this comes from a car that was serviced by Mitsubishi mechanics, and looked after it's whole life, until it was left in a driveway for a year. It has only done 140,000km!!!

What should I do?!?! :cry:

dennystone 12
17-07-2007, 01:23 PM
Maybe use this one as parts car and get another one. Is that true the crossmember on a TM-TN is different to a TP?

magna buff
17-07-2007, 01:26 PM
same response i gave you on this post

look on the bright side you could be driving a rust bucket as well

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2719&sid=84685cc48fa534735126b9dc497e888b

Dave262
17-07-2007, 01:38 PM
Maybe use this one as parts car and get another one. Is that true the crossmember on a TM-TN is different to a TP?

Yeah I've been told by about 3 different places that it's a TM/TN bar, and they wouldn't comment about that unless there was a difference :S

When I asked magna's r' us over in Lilydale, they said there isn't much difference, but for instance some of the holes are drilled about 1cm or so different and some of the bends are on different angles. Plus there is a definite difference in strength, as you can see that the official TP version has slightly thicker steel on it...

Gav
17-07-2007, 03:52 PM
To be honest, see how much it's going to cost to get this repaired. If you purchase another secondhand car, you're more than likely going to end up buying somebody elses problems.

Mrmacomouto
17-07-2007, 05:04 PM
Sell it, buy something newer.

2PL3ZU
17-07-2007, 06:51 PM
What year model is the TP magna and is it EFI?

Dave262
17-07-2007, 07:02 PM
It is EFI, and it's a 1990 model. It is still going alright, but the frame has a lot of problems with paint, and the engine is in pretty poor shape... The good thing is though, I have been offered $3300 from Toyota for it, so next year I might see if I can still get that... right now finances aren't the best, so I can't afford to actually go off and get a brand new car just yet... second hand I'm not all that willing to do right now, since I am effectively buying someone else's problem car...

Dave262
17-07-2007, 07:13 PM
Got some pics... took them in the dark, so not the clearest of all pics, but you get the idea...
First pic is the oil leak from around the first cyl somewhere - which could be either head gasket or distributor leaking, second one is a filter I have to clean out the heavy oil going through the PCV line which has milky oil, third is the part that actually set some oil alight the other day, fourth is the leak from the oil pressure switch and the rear end seal, and fifth is the actual oil pressure switch leak...

It is worse than it looks in those pics too...

PeteW
17-07-2007, 08:15 PM
dave, 1st pic looks like its leaking from the timing chain adjuster cover plate, apart from the filters all that oil is from that busted switch including round the sump its amasing how far it will blow about, my 1st port of call is compression test when at running temp with raidator cap off look for bubbles in the water if none are present id then do the chains as u can check the water gallery while your at it since you have the parts

Dave262
17-07-2007, 08:42 PM
I thought it was initially that little cover too, but after a degrease, it seems to be coming from between the head and cylinder block... I'll have to do a compression test when I have some time. For now the car just lives in the driveway, and I've been using another car to get to work every day. On thursday all the big work starts on fixing it though, and hopefully it's not as severe as it seems. I would replace the sensor, but I figure that I will be draining oil and disassembling part of the engine and everything, so it's just easier to simply replace everything that needs replacing at once.

I will also do the radiator test soon before thursday... really hoping there's nothing wrong there, as replacing the head gasket isn't the most fun of all jobs...

I am awake of the leak from the oil switch, there is one at the front of the sump, one that seems to be coming out from between the head and cylinder block at the number 1 end, there is also one from the distributor shaft and one possibly from the rear end seal. I have to degrease the engine again for like the 4th time to try and work out what's going on...

dennystone 12
19-07-2007, 12:44 PM
Is it the car in your avatar? That looks good, maybe stick with it, you have done a lot of work on it. Thanks for the info. on the crossmembers, helpful.:)

Dave262
19-07-2007, 05:48 PM
hehe yeah it is the car in the avatar. Personally I don't know how the car is going to be running in say six months...

The crossmembers I finally got out of the car after 6 hours of cursing, sweating, breaking tools and heaps of pain! The crossmembers definitely seem to be different, as the comparison of a TP one beside a TM one is very different. The TP one is about 2cm different at the end! This definitely explains all the issues with engine mounts breaking constantly.

Tasks for tomorrow: Replace bushings on the new crossmembers, replace swaybar bushings, install the crossmembers and engine mounts, reinstall the swaybar and power steering rack and put all the control arm gear back in place... then I will have to start on the timing chains, which I am really not looking forward to, especially since I can barely move right now! Gonna be a fun day tomorrow! :doubt:

PeteW
19-07-2007, 07:51 PM
timing chains where easy for me handed over kit, keys & $300 it was back 5 hours later best job ive ever done :)

keep at it dave she be as good as new, you gotta be running out of bolt on bits to replace by now

MagdagnA
20-07-2007, 09:49 PM
I think u should hang on 2 it. I know when things go wrong u sometimes think is this all worth it or not. I know because I need a new motor as u might already know and just now my gearbox has stuffed up. So im looking at $1600 for a reco gearbox 2 be fitted and still Needing a good motor. I was told yesterday that i should get a cheap gearbox and sell it but i said no I love my car 2 much. So im not giving up on the old girl I will keep on persisting with it until I get it right. Anyway good luck with it all I hope u can keep the car going for as Long as possible.

dennystone 12
21-07-2007, 06:54 AM
I think u should hang on 2 it. I know when things go wrong u sometimes think is this all worth it or not. I know because I need a new motor as u might already know and just now my gearbox has stuffed up. So im looking at $1600 for a reco gearbox 2 be fitted and still Needing a good motor. I was told yesterday that i should get a cheap gearbox and sell it but i said no I love my car 2 much. So im not giving up on the old girl I will keep on persisting with it until I get it right. Anyway good luck with it all I hope u can keep the car going for as Long as possible.
A great attitude:clap: :clap:

Dave262
21-07-2007, 01:31 PM
ahh yes... i know it would be nice to keep it going, but yeah sometimes u just have to draw the line somewhere...

In my case, I finally got it all back together, although the chains weren't done as the crossmember issues turned out more complex than expected. Crossmember has now been swapped, and as a comparison - the wheel toe-in has changed by 2.5cm from changing the crossmembers... which is really a sign of how screwed things were.

I think unfortunately in the case of my old car tho... i will have to move on. I discovered the drivers side control arm is buckled and bent and the frame is bent - the main front bar that the centre member attached to is bent upwards by about 3cm, and the entire front of the car is twisted a fair bit, as comparing the measurements to those mentioned in the service manual, there are many differences. It is only the front that is affected tho, as the back all the measurements are the same. Certainly fits in with the history of the car tho in that the previous owner was in a front end accident with it...

To fix all that will just be plain impossible. For now though, I'll keep it going, and I will have to start looking for a new car in the coming months. Pity I can't keep it going, but with a twisted frame and bent control arm, control arm is fixable but twisted and bent frame can't really be fixed...

magna buff
22-07-2007, 03:08 AM
you are sorting out the problems


now to give your TP a suitable name

Dave262
04-08-2007, 06:23 PM
Just thought I might update a little on the car...

After taking to Magnas r' us in Lilydale, they discovered the source of the major oil leak was for whatever reason from the entire front of the sump, which is now *mostly* fixed. It now leaks from somewhere else, and has still found a way of leaking onto the exhaust now and then :P

While it was up on the hoist too, they showed me something which not a single place has picked up all this time... the control arm rear bushes were both on the wrong way! It's obviously been like that for 2 years, which explains the awful handling it's always had. The mechanic there undid the joint and put them in the right way, and the handling improvement is insane! I can take corners at 80k, that I would normally have to slow down to 40k for. I can't believe it's been like that for all this time...

Bad news though, one of the guides is either broken or the bolt has fallen out/snapped, so it's only being held in place on one side. That explains the significant rattling and also why I get some strange timing issues often. Also the compression in second and third is really low. When I tested it the other day, it started off at 0psi in cyl 2, then after a few tests it finally got up to about 70psi steady. Cyl 3 was at 90 psi after a few tests (started off at 60). I'm really starting to suspect head gasket or major timing problems between cam and crank (due to chains likely).

Anyway, plan is to get chains done, and if compression is still down in cyl 2 and 3, I will have to replace the head gasket too. I really don't want to have to do all this work, but no real choice I guess. I also have to fix up the sump leak again and replace the drivers side control arm, as it is buckled and is causing a +3cm castor on that wheel. First gens I think have an addiction to maintenance... :rant:

zedovski
17-08-2007, 11:18 AM
Umm dude, I just sort of added up how much you've spent on this car and it must be like $10k. I spent $6500 recently and got a 98 Verada with 112,000km on the clock. It goes like a dream mate (I had gearbox slippage too, the ARTARD before me used to use peugeot transmission oil for it -- GOD people can be thick), once I got that fixed, spent $99 and got a service card from somewhere with $500 value of service for it and another $150 on replacing odd bits and pieces and its like new. My suggestion, dump it as soon as it's driveable, take public transport and save $4k (eat less, live nude, dont shower etc to speed up the process) and go straight to a good third-gen. Magnas are reliable cars but it sounds like whoever had this one for 3 months really had their way with it. What you describe is just horrifying.

anyways it aches my heart to hear what you've gone through. It really does, I have no idea how you can show so much patience.

Cheers and keep us updated.