Has anyone got any idea on what it would approximatley cost to have the rings on the front bank of a 6G74 replaced?

am i correct in saying it can be done without removing the engine?

Has anyone got any idea on what it would approximatley cost to have the rings on the front bank of a 6G74 replaced?

am i correct in saying it can be done without removing the engine?
guess again

new rings pretty much means full engine rebuild buddy. If you have to go to that extent and you are in the race for power, may as well get some forged pistons, balanced crank and up the boost when its all back together

Dont know about cost but my understanding is yes it can be done in the car.. Done by removing sump and crankshaft.. I could be wrong though..:)


Rings arent that big of an issue..

guess again

new rings pretty much means full engine rebuild buddy. If you have to go to that extent and you are in the race for power, may as well get some forged pistons, balanced crank and up the boost when its all back together

nah **** that not interested in power

just slide in some new rings and if necessary hone the bores and happy days :thumbsup:

Why just the fronts?

Why just the fronts?

cos thats where the problem is the rear bank is fine

cos thats where the problem is the rear bank is fine

Wierd. Is the front bank leaning out?

From what I saw of my engine when it was on a hoist with the sump removed - getting the pistons out with the engine still in the car shouldn't be a problem.

But really - when you're going to that extent anyway, the labour to remove and reinstall the engine is going to be pretty insignificant.

Wierd. Is the front bank leaning out?

I'm assuming it's loosing compression if he wants the rings replaced.

From what I saw of my engine when it was on a hoist with the sump removed - getting the pistons out with the engine still in the car shouldn't be a problem.

But really - when you're going to that extent anyway, the labour to remove and reinstall the engine is going to be pretty insignificant.


yeah but, if the engine stays in place the whole inlet manifold and s/c kit dosent have to come off again...

i just pulled the kit off the other night to change the leads and plugs and now its back on and staying that way lol

cos thats where the problem is the rear bank is fine
What computer are you running..???

Wierd. Is the front bank leaning out?

stuffed if i know, but the rear bank and 1 cyl on the front bank are within a few psi of each other

2 cyl on the front bank are gay one 30psi down the other 150psi down :shock:

stuffed if i know, but the rear bank and 1 cyl on the front bank are within a few psi of each other

2 cyl on the front bank are gay one 30psi down the other 150psi down :shock:
Very odd.. u sure its rings.. Not valves..??

What computer are you running..???

the sprintex one, but tuned

the a/f ratios etc.. are fine though.... this is a problem possibly due to the right foot...

and on 4 cyl i dragged off a worked VN 5.0L and a manual XR6 ba ute (non turbo)

apart from the fact 1 cyl is down and the other had no spark and the fact it was running rough it still hammers :badgrin:

yes im a ******** lol

Very odd.. u sure its rings.. Not valves..??

yeah middle cyl dry comp test 30psi

wet test 120psi

all others 180psi

anyway anyone know on an approxish cost???

Have a crack at it your self?

Else ask a good mechanic.

drop the sump, and crank. Take the front head off, as pistons have to come out through the top. You will probably have to take the g/box out to get the crank out as it is bolted to the flywheel!

When we had our business DH use to do re-rings for $700, the price included, service the head, new rings, bearings, gaskits, oil, filter, labour and 6 mths warranty.

99% of the time he just dumped the sump.

You wont get cheap prices like that though, it was just him and me. No need for us to charge $hitloads to cover high insurance & wages.

Also the oil that goes in should be cheap $hit, helps it run in quicker, and also you need to do the first oil change at 500kms coz the oil thins out. Need any more info just ask, DH is home so can ask him.

thanks.... i have an idea :flame: :rocket: :badgrin: :surprised :dancin:

remove the box and engine togeather it would be a lot easier

piston rings are cheap, the only thing that will cost you lots is the labour, take out engine, take off head n gearbox n sump, undoing the rods, pulling pistons out putting new rings on and reversing it all. OEM rings ur lookin at about $50ea u can get good aftermarket ones like Arias for $35ea (not sure if they have em for the 6g74) or theres extreme friction minimising ones thats are like $120ea. so for two stock rings ur lookin at 100ish, labour depends on who u know, but b around 400-600 mark.

WOnt need to remove the crank.
Drop sump remove charger manifold then head and what other stuff needs to come out.
Undo conrod bolts on affected piston push piston through the top and re insert through the top. If you turn the crank by hand you should be able to get to the offending piston without removing the crank.

Regards

WOnt need to remove the crank.
Drop sump remove charger manifold then head and what other stuff needs to come out.
Undo conrod bolts on affected piston push piston through the top and re insert through the top. If you turn the crank by hand you should be able to get to the offending piston without removing the crank.

Regards


thanks sounds like a plan!

i have found a good mechanic... he is cheap too... :badgrin:
and very good im told