Hey guys,
recently i have noticed that when i am turning right there is a noise coming from the left hand side(passenger side), i think its a slow ticking noise but not too sure, it only have wen i anm turning hard or on full lock
would it be :


1.Cv joints-Should i do both sides, cause i think it would be worth wile
2.wheel berings-Could it be them
3. Other-??

CV's. bearings will be going all the time because it's not dependant on turning like CV's.

There really isn't any point in doing both at the same time from the perspective of 'while you've taken all that apart do this too' because they're on different sides.

I would say though, get a new boot on the drivers because it's probably cactus.

For some reason the CV boots on my magnas seem to die REALLY fast.

is the type of noise on this list ?

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm
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I replaced both of mine at the same time. along with boots and clips. I did so to ensure not having to pull the other side off in a month and take it off. and seeing as you're already dirty, might as well!

I think you'll find that one of the CV boots as split open and the grease has leaked out from the joint, and that now the joint is perishing.

This normally is a rare occurrence in cars that are serviced because a mechanic would simply pull the joint apart and repack it with new grease and replace the boot.

It's easy enough to replace the driveshaft with two CV joints on, and even easier for the passenger side drive shaft because of the relay shaft that connects to the transmission, this means you don’t have to drain and refill the transmission when doing the passenger side.

Beg pardon!:shock: , you do have to pull the L/H shaft out to do the C/V as the relay shaft is pressed on to the bracked that bolts on to the engine block which means drain and refill the transmission oil.Getting that L/H shaft out on a V6 is a real bastard of a job, the fun really starts when it comes to put it back in!The R/H shaft is easy .I have done the L/H shaft on 3 v6's.

is the type of noise on this list ?

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm
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its the first on one the list "A popping or clicking noise when turning"

replace the cv driveshafts

if one is on the way out so may be the other

Beg pardon!:shock: , you do have to pull the L/H shaft out to do the C/V as the relay shaft is pressed on to the bracked that bolts on to the engine block which means drain and refill the transmission oil.Getting that L/H shaft out on a V6 is a real bastard of a job, the fun really starts when it comes to put it back in!The R/H shaft is easy .I have done the L/H shaft on 3 v6's.

tip

undo the boot clips on the inner sides of the cvs this allows you to remove the old shaft first
might make it a little easier

I jack the side I am working on up high so less oil is spilt

Cheers for that buffy, does $165 a side sound out (thats trade, thats what i can get them for)

Do it yourself mate, its easy as.

i am when i get my tax back, do you reckon 165 for the cv joint, shaft(whole thing) is worth it

if that price includes fitting its worth it :D

I just buy reco items, alot cheaper.

na its not including fitting me and a mate will do that, a re co one is a lot more dollars (thats what i was told)

I got my camry driveshaft/cv for $50 from the wreckers. For one with a warrantly it was like $120 (reco).

dude do em ya self, i did my Right hand side 2day i found it easyer then intalling an amp + ya get to learn a few things, and its cheaper this way i paid $44 for my whole right side CV got it from a pick n pay wreaker and it had brand new boots on it :D now my car dosent go click click around corners i love it :badgrin:

Beg pardon!:shock: , you do have to pull the L/H shaft out to do the C/V as the relay shaft is pressed on to the bracked that bolts on to the engine block which means drain and refill the transmission oil.Getting that L/H shaft out on a V6 is a real bastard of a job, the fun really starts when it comes to put it back in!The R/H shaft is easy .I have done the L/H shaft on 3 v6's.

Hmmm damn, must be different on the newer ones, cause you don't need to do the transmission fluid when doing the passenger side shaft on 1st gens.

Both driveshafts are new on my car. They're not that hard to do.

I got told that the average life of a CV is 100,000kms, so i would do both.

im doing em in about 2 weeks when i get my tax back

sorry to steal the thread, but i am wondering if both outer cv joints are the same, like would i buy two outer cv joints to replace both sides, or is there a left and a right?

sorry to steal the thread, but i am wondering if both outer cv joints are the same, like would i buy two outer cv joints to replace both sides, or is there a left and a right?

ones longer than the other, drivers side would we long for yours cause its a 3rd gen

so when the bloody thing creaks when ya full lock, you cant just replace the ends, you have to replace the whole shaft thing?

so when the bloody thing creaks when ya full lock, you cant just replace the ends, you have to replace the whole shaft thing?

you could buts it too mucnh mucking around, i'm doing mine soon, its costing me $150 (but that includs streeing boots cause there buggered as well)

Recommend replacing as an entire shaft, is about the same cost, you get a new outer CV and a reco DOJ (inner).

These reco inners are just as good as new due to the way they are made in the first place, this way also they just pop in with out the issue of greasing them up.

I searched for CV joints and found this. I have a question so it aint a mine

Do CV's make noise when going dead ahead? I'm getting a ticking noise when going straight that sounds exactly like that of what I heard when my CV had gone (replaced it with 2nd hand from wreckers-great idea). Thing is, when turning, it doesnt make any noise, only when going straight and is most audible when creeping forward in traffic. Any one know what It might be? I'm sure it's CV's

Also, if it is CV, how long can I go without replacing it? What happens if I don't replace it straight away? The noise is actually rather bad and has started all of a sudden...

Thanks in advance
-Ian.

so no1 can help me with this? :doubt:

Patience please.....

In general no, they will not make noise in a straight ahead run.

Sometimes the outers can give a vibration when you are on overrun ie you are not slowing down but you are not speeding up, usually on level road.

If is when going slow, could be a brake pad (oops, i meant break pad)

Patience please.....

In general no, they will not make noise in a straight ahead run.

Sometimes the outers can give a vibration when you are on overrun ie you are not slowing down but you are not speeding up, usually on level road.

If is when going slow, could be a brake pad (oops, i meant break pad)

Hmmm, I can't imagine brake pads would make that much noise, it sounds like my bushes are gone-they're brand new and freshly greased, so it's not them. I checked the brake calipers yesterday along with sway bar and control arm mounting points-they're all tight.

When I turned the wheel (was in neutral so wheel was free-moving) there was free-play in the movement, for example, turn it one way it'd click a few times then grab and become heavy, do it the other way, it'd click and grab again...I'm not sure if there's supposed to be freeplay in the CV joints, but ive got some. lol.

I'll pull the wheel off and give the brake pads a check tomorrow

Found this thread while searching for tips to help me replace both drive shafts. What is the end result of the discussion about the Gen2 LH shaft, do you remove it with the transfer shaft, as one whole unit, replace the CV shaft, put it back together and re-install the whole package, of can you split the shafts on the vehicle? I will have access to a fair selection of tools, but not a press.
Brand new shafts $121(each) trade from repco, 5 yr /100 000km warranty. Not a lot of options in Hobart, but recon shafts dearer than new!!!

Found this thread while searching for tips to help me replace both drive shafts. What is the end result of the discussion about the Gen2 LH shaft, do you remove it with the transfer shaft, as one whole unit, replace the CV shaft, put it back together and re-install the whole package, of can you split the shafts on the vehicle? I will have access to a fair selection of tools, but not a press.
Brand new shafts $121(each) trade from repco, 5 yr /100 000km warranty. Not a lot of options in Hobart, but recon shafts dearer than new!!!

Yeah It'll have to come out as one unit, then you separate it outside the car, think there is a small clip holding it into the GB

Help please.
I was removing the RH shaft today, undid it all, got it down to just the shaft to pull, pushed it in as far as it would go and then gave it a good hard pull to remove it, and it seperated at the inner joint. So I have 3/4 of a shaft out of the vehicle.
How do I get the last bit out? Is it just a matter of leverage now?

Help please.
I was removing the RH shaft today, undid it all, got it down to just the shaft to pull, pushed it in as far as it would go and then gave it a good hard pull to remove it, and it seperated at the inner joint. So I have 3/4 of a shaft out of the vehicle.
How do I get the last bit out? Is it just a matter of leverage now?

NEVER pull on a joint mate, I know is a little late now but hey.

You can clean them, get new grease and re assemble, they have a large circlip inside the cup. Depending on mileage howeever the inner joint, known as a DOJ joint, may not perform correctly as the bearings will have worn them selves into the cup and if put back in a different position (you have 3 to choose from). You will typically get a vibration.

NEVER pull on a joint mate, I know is a little late now but hey.

You can clean them, get new grease and re assemble, they have a large circlip inside the cup.
So finding this clip and releasing it will let me remove it? That is all I want to do with it.

Depending on mileage howeever the inner joint, known as a DOJ joint, may not perform correctly as the bearings will have worn them selves into the cup and if put back in a different position (you have 3 to choose from). You will typically get a vibration.
I have brand new shafts to put in but your warning is taken to heart.
When I go to replace the left tomorrow, what is the preferred method for extracting it from the car, I have read undo everything at wheel end, undo transfer shaft carrier from trans and pull sharply (but now I have your warning to consider).
Thanks for the reply

Well the deed is done, used a small pry bar to finish removing the RHS DOJ, then popped in the new one. Quite anticlimactic.
The LHS one, yeah, the manual says remove the transfer shaft support bracket, they don't say what a pain in various parts of the anatomy it is to get to the bolts. I found it much easier to remove the alternator first, this gave me heaps of room to swing a socket and get the job done quickly. Separating the transfer and CV shafts had me going for a while, till I re-read the manual, in plain english it is "seperate the DOJ, support DOJ outer, place thick bar in center of DOJ and beat the @#$% out of it." :cool: Worked a treat. New one went on quite easily, cleaned the transfer shaft spline and offered up to car.
It is lovely to drive around a corner now and not hear the outer joints complaining.
Thanks everyone for their advice and hints. :D