im i new member so forgive me if this topic has already covered. i dont have a magna yet but im in the market for one. my question is regarding nitrous on the 3.5 motors. anyone have any ideas on the best combinations. i was thinking along the lines of a wet system and starting off with 75hp jets. does anyone have any experience with a similair setup? is there any reliability issues? a magna that im considering purchasing has 196000kms, but is a manual wagon. would this be an issue if nos was applied. any hints,tips,info or words of wisdom would be appreciated

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1114316

i did tell u to do a search...

nos or any performance enhancment on a 200,000km old motor is stupid?

ash meh he is the nos man

ok read the threads. pretty useless. from what i gather im going to need a bigger fuel pump. im not going to worry about a regulator as they are useless if the right size injector is used. so what type of injectors does the3.5 have[side feed or top feed]? 75hp seems to be on the money. is it necessary to have a modded ecu? how does the driveline hold up ? sorry for the questions. but i thought this would be the place to ask. and i like to be thorough.

The 3.5L uses a top feed type injector. As for the ECU, you'll probably want some sort of timing retardation, so you don't melt your pistons when you fire the system. Like andrewd said, a driveline sitting on the brink of 200k is on borrowed time if you fill it up with gas.

Your CVs will probably go first, then your clutch, and that's if you don't burn the motor out.

Not that I'm the nitrous expert, but I'd start off with a small dry system, and work up from there.

nos or any performance enhancment on a 200,000km old motor is stupid?

ash meh he is the nos man

Meh put n2o on a motor with over 200,000kms and managed to thrash it for over 12 months I'm pretty sure.

You will need at least a piggyback style ECU, if not a full replacement programable ECU to control ignition timing / fuelling etc. You will want it running rather rich to be on the safe side. You might get away with not upgrading the injectors, but don't take my word for it. I know when Meh was running his 3.0L on n20, he sourced a set of 3.5L injectors for the job, now he's got a Ralliart engine, as far as I know he hasn't touched the injectors. At very least you will need to upgrade the fuel pump, and possibly run a FPR (I know you said you didn't want to run a fpr - but if you can get away with it, it will be a hell of a lot cheaper than upgrading your injectors!!).

As for the driveline, well in my experience diffs are the weakest link in that department - but thats not to say you wont break other things on a car that old. If you don't do stuff that causes axle tramp, and don't hammer it thru corners you will definetly increase the life of your diff.

With a 75hp (55kW) nos shot, I'm sure the driveline will hold up fine (if it hasn't had a hard life). CV joints will last no worries, just don't do burnouts and hard take offs with the wheels turned, same with the diff.

thanks to everybody who has given me their words of wisdom. theres also a tj auto sedan with 120000kms in my price range, so i might have to adapt my nos ideas to something like that. auto might be slower, but also kinder to the driveline. i guess i have some more decisions to make.

thanks to everybody who has given me their words of wisdom. theres also a tj auto sedan with 120000kms in my price range, so i might have to adapt my nos ideas to something like that. auto might be slower, but also kinder to the driveline. i guess i have some more decisions to make.

It will be about as quick as a stock manual with happy gas. Don't waste your time with an auto.

As black beard said, axle tramp is what breaks things, namely diffs and engine mounts.

As black beard said, axle tramp is what breaks things, namely diffs and engine mounts.

yeah..... but engine mounts are cheap..... and once you upgrade to aftermarket ones they should be unbreakable. Unlike diffs which are ****ing expensive, and I've already broken one aftermarket LSD :rant: .

let me kno how u go with this mate, i would be interested to see what the result is, but may i suggest u do this on a manual car.

yeah going by everyones suggestions im going to look for a manual th onwards with hopefully under 100000kms. i should be able to find an executive in my price range. and if not, might have to settle for the 3litre manual[which i have driven and was supprisingly quick]. the car is going to be driven only on weekends, as i still have a company vehicle, so i dont mind doing without elec options etc. is there much of a weight difference between say a verada & executive? and in terms of value are the extractors a worth while upgrade,or would a high flow cat and 21/4 exhaust be just as good. the standard headers dont look half bad thats why i ask?

yeah going by everyones suggestions im going to look for a manual th onwards with hopefully under 100000kms. i should be able to find an executive in my price range. and if not, might have to settle for the 3litre manual[which i have driven and was supprisingly quick]. the car is going to be driven only on weekends, as i still have a company vehicle, so i dont mind doing without elec options etc. is there much of a weight difference between say a verada & executive? and in terms of value are the extractors a worth while upgrade,or would a high flow cat and 21/4 exhaust be just as good. the standard headers dont look half bad thats why i ask?

To answer a couple of your questions:

Weight differences aside, you will not find a manual Verada - they were all auto from the factory. So if you're looking for a manual - the veradas are out of the question.

On a lightly modified car - I would say extractors probably aren't all that worthwhile, but they are one of those mods that help get the best out of other mods. And if you are going to pump Nitrous into your engine - they would definetly be worthwhile, and they really aren't that expensive..... about $450 - $500 for pacemakers installed is the most you should pay.

All magnas in the range (3.5L 3rd gens I'm talking about), got the same diameter exhaust piping which is roughly 2 1/4". Execs etc got a really crappy muffler, whereas anything in the "sports" or "VRX" family got a "straight through" design muffler which accounts for most of the difference in power between the execs and the VRX / Sports (quoted at about 7kW according to mitsubishi). The general consensus is that a "hi-flow" cat vs. Std cat isn't going to make much difference on it's own - but if you are upgrading the rest of the exhaust system, most people agree that you might as well spend the extra $250 for a "hi-flow" cat.

A popular exhaust upgrade for magna owners looking to get abit more power out of their ride is the previously mentioned pacemaker headers + 2.5" cat back exhaust and a "straight through" design muffler.

i upgraded the fuel pump, put on a fuel reg and 3.5ltr injectors on the 3.0lt engine. ran a 100hp for a couple of years no dramas at all. engine had 300000km by the end of it, but was abit smokey haha wat rings. i didnt run an ecu at first for a few months

i got a dry system, it goes in before the throttle body. have a switch to activate it then it kicks in a 100% throttle.

all this driveline talk bout it breaking is not necissary. u dont flick the gas off the line. do it already rolling or u just wheel spin

thats unreal. thanks heaps meh and black beard. this sort of info is exactly what i was after. ive made up my mind now and its from ideas and advice that i have gained just from joining the magna club. consider me a regular and ill keep you all posted on my next move. again thanks heaps!!!

thats unreal. thanks heaps meh and black beard. this sort of info is exactly what i was after. ive made up my mind now and its from ideas and advice that i have gained just from joining the magna club. consider me a regular and ill keep you all posted on my next move. again thanks heaps!!!

thats what we like to hear! goodluck

I've got a wet shot of nos (50hp) on a standard-ass 3.0L auto. No troubles so far...
Although like everyone has said, more hp = more money. You need to change things. But if you're happy with a 50-shot (like me for the time being) then just chuck it in!!

I've got a wet shot of nos (50hp) on a standard-ass 3.0L auto. No troubles so far...
Although like everyone has said, more hp = more money. You need to change things. But if you're happy with a 50-shot (like me for the time being) then just chuck it in!!

Are you using foggers or a plate system?