Hi Guys,

Guys who are still running on the original single Mitshi Magna auto tranny and reaching a reasonable odometer reading (e.g., > 150000kms), Would you please share the tricks to keep the tranny working for so long?

Based on my limited observations, Mitshi tranny should never be used for towing for long (A friend of mine was doing that with his 2nd gen Magna and now running on 3rd tranny)?

Cheers

As long as the fluid is changed regularly it should be ok. Also on the 3rd gens adding a transmission cooler is advised.

']As long as the fluid is changed regularly it should be ok. Also on the 3rd gens adding a transmission cooler is advised.

Yep what he said....... and it goes without saying that doing stupid sh*t like stalling it up (face it - auto magnas aren't race cars!!!!), doing N -> D dumps, roll back burnouts etc is going to significantly reduce the life of the gearbox.

Yep what he said....... and it goes without saying that doing stupid sh*t like stalling it up (face it - auto magnas aren't race cars!!!!), doing N -> D dumps, roll back burnouts etc is going to significantly reduce the life of the gearbox.

you're exactly right, I shattred 3 gearbox's in 7 weeks

Just always use good quailty oil and the same type through it's life if you can.
My auto is17yrs old with 130xxx original kms and I have NEVER had a problem or code pop up. But i maintain it regulary , some would even say a bit premeture.
I do the oil and internal filter/gasket/o-ring every 2nd engine oil change. I do the engine oil every 5000kms:D

So treat it good and it should hold together for a good while.

Yep what he said....... and it goes without saying that doing stupid sh*t like stalling it up (face it - auto magnas aren't race cars!!!!), doing N -> D dumps, roll back burnouts etc is going to significantly reduce the life of the gearbox.
]

Whats that N -> D dumps mate?

]

Whats that N -> D dumps mate?
reving it up in N (buildingup the stall converter) then slaming it into D for burnouts (box doesn't like this and it's the quickest way to blow it up:D )

reving it up in N (buildingup the stall converter) then slaming it into D for burnouts (box doesn't like this and it's the quickest way to blow it up:D )

In auto magnas this doesn't even seem to do burnouts... the torque converter doesnt spool until its slammed in D n then the revs just drop n build up again coz the converter was not spooled.

In auto magnas this doesn't even seem to do burnouts... the torque converter doesnt spool until its slammed in D n then the revs just drop n build up again coz the converter was not spooled.

well it's not the best way but is do-able. better off in L with the handbrake on. but that will kill it fast trying to do them (had a friend who loved to try in his old tn but just ended up screwing the box, that why i don't do em plus tyres are expensive).

well it's not the best way but is do-able. better off in L with the handbrake on. but that will kill it fast trying to do them (had a friend who loved to try in his old tn but just ended up screwing the box, that why i don't do em plus tyres are expensive).

The manual says the the tranny fluid should be checked at fluid temperature 70-80 C. How on earth should I know what the fuild temperature is?

I had my fluid changed by Ultratune, then I drove it around for 10 mins and found the fuild level right about the cross section of cold and hot marks. I then had it checked by a Mishi service centre and the service man said the level was ok, but I never found the fluid level crossing the cross section of cold and hot and reaching the hot region as recommended by the manual after 10 mins of driving .

Any advice guys, should I top up with another 200ml of fluid?

if it ain't dead, dont fix it. in other words, if its running fine, leave it be. keep up your regular maintenance up and thats all. dont go adding in extra now in case you use a different fluid to the place that did the last service. besides, too much fluid is only good for blowing pan gaskets and dumping tranny fluid all over your hot exhaust (been there done that lol)

dont go adding in extra now in case you use a different fluid to the place that did the last service. besides, too much fluid is only good for blowing pan gaskets and dumping tranny fluid all over your hot exhaust (been there done that lol)

It was the Genuine Mitsi SPIII fluid supplied by Mitsi dealer. I checked it double triple times with them.:D

What are some brands people trust in trans fluid?? I need of a top up myself....

What are some brands people trust in trans fluid?? I need of a top up myself....

My understanding is - Nothing other than Mitsi SPIII when comes to Mitsi Tranny.

My understanding is - Nothing other than Mitsi SPIII when comes to Mitsi Tranny.


Exactly. Nothing other than genuine transmission oil should be used, and its the same for most tranny's (i.e. other car manufacturers). I would never recommend a third party transmission oil.

hmm I have reach 200K mark and never had any issues. Well basically I did not do burn outs.

Yes I dont see why anyone wants to use other brands for tranny as is more expensive too.

Hi Guys,

Guys who are still running on the original single Mitshi Magna auto tranny and reaching a reasonable odometer reading (e.g., > 150000kms), Would you please share the tricks to keep the tranny working for so long?

Cheers

Umm...don't beat the hell out of it? Our TR has done about 182,000 clicks now, and its still going fine on the original auto trans. To be honest, there have been times it hasn't been serviced when it should have and that doesn't appear to have effected it as yet! :)

I have heard of problems with the tranny in the TR/TS magnas though, as a result of towing (mine hasn't a tow bar, so never towed anything :P) or driving them hard. A friends TS for example buggered up completely, every time it changed to third it would give the same sensation as if you were driving a manual car and had just dumped the clutch in third and flattened the throttle, real big jerk! He needed a new trans for that, well his mum did, its not his car.

I have heard of problems with the tranny in the TR/TS magnas though, as a result of towing (mine hasn't a tow bar, so never towed anything :P) or driving them hard.

Thats why I bought the Manga without a tow bar.

Exactly. Nothing other than genuine transmission oil should be used, and its the same for most tranny's (i.e. other car manufacturers). I would never recommend a third party transmission oil.

i'm using castrol oil in it now, i replaced it with the mitsubishi stuff and all the gears were all hard to change so (this was after i replaced my clutch, i drained the gearbox fluid and put the mitsubishi stuff in), so i put in castrol fulid and its been better than it ever was, cars done 145000, and every now and again dad borrows and has teh trailer behind it.

Exactly. Nothing other than genuine transmission oil should be used, and its the same for most tranny's (i.e. other car manufacturers). I would never recommend a third party transmission oil.
I've used Castrol TQM-ST to top up my tranny. it meets the SPIII requirements for Mitsu 'boxes. it's spendy though (about $45 for 4 litres)

pdf specs (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/t/TQMST_B1953_05.pdf)

cheers,
.wook

I've used Castrol TQM-ST to top up my tranny. it meets the SPIII requirements for Mitsu 'boxes. it's spendy though (about $45 for 4 litres)

pdf specs (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/t/TQMST_B1953_05.pdf)

cheers,
.wook

Wookie - where is your fluid level reaching now? Mine is just reaching the cold hot cross section after 10 mins drive. Do you think I sud top up? Mitsi service man said the level was ok. :shock:

Mine died at 204'000 km. Of that there was some 80'000 km of hard gunning (during my ownership). Rebuilt the box just recently. Apparently I have to take it easy for few hundred km now... :doubt:
Mecho did say that these boxes are quite pathetic and cannot handle the power of the donk alone - not to mention towing etc.

Mine died at 204'000 km. Of that there was some 80'000 km of hard gunning (during my ownership). Rebuilt the box just recently. Apparently I have to take it easy for few hundred km now... :doubt:
Mecho did say that these boxes are quite pathetic and cannot handle the power of the donk alone - not to mention towing etc.

The only thing you can do is make sure you get it serviced when its suppose to be, the typical driver who never deals with there car does not no how to look at the transmission so always take it to a quality auto place.

Yes the mechanic is right the gearbox's are built pathetic, its a known fact and anyone who trys to argue against this has not thought it through, even with the new'er models ppl have been blowing boxes etc

Taken from http://www.marque.com.au/usedcars/050815_Mitsubishi_Magna,Verada.htm



WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Automatic transmission problems have long dogged these Mitsubishis, but troubles are less frequent in newer models than in older cars. Watch for an automatic that shifts gear when it doesn’t need to, or which suddenly shifts into neutral of its own accord.

Just to add look at the colour of the oil, it should always be rich red colour, look out for the gear changing, should always be smooth with no delays, any large clunks when moved from D to R. etc Look out for any leakage comming from the unit etc Make sure the O/d and A/t modes work.

The list continues.

Wookie - where is your fluid level reaching now? Mine is just reaching the cold hot cross section after 10 mins drive. Do you think I sud top up? Mitsi service man said the level was ok. :shock:

mine was at the bottom of the cold level when warm (and after following the owner's manual instructions to check the level*). I put about a litre in and it seems fine now. next service I'm having it flushed.

*the instructions are something like: get up to running temp (10 minutes drive should be plenty, you'll know when the torque convertor locks up, which happens above about 70km/h), park on a level surface with the engine running, park brake on, foot on the brake, then go from P to R, hold for a few seconds, then to N, hold again, then to D, hold again, and back to N. get out, check the fluid level. should be in the middle of the HOT section. if it's not, top it up.

cheers,
.wook

Does the strategy of disconneting the battery and letting the ecu/tranmission control learn your driving pattern really have any effect on the smooth shifting of your auto tranny? Anybody with any positive experience?