Guys,

Looks like after 58,000km the gasket is gone...
I can find a general procedure & diagrams, but nothing detailed which shows the exact procedure, tightening strengths etc etc...
Anyone know where i can get a workshop manual from etc?

Cheers

read my info posts (links )

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=671780#post671780

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=814&start=0

then pm me

the head torque settings will be on the gasket packet
rocker bolts is 20nm no more than that

have the head refaced and pressure tested

get the VRS kit off Ebay $59 ringwood

cheers for the info...

the local mechanic will do a full head recon ($400), & all the work for less than $1k.
So probably not worth me loosing a day on it...

thanks guys.

cheers for the info...

the local mechanic will do a full head recon ($400), & all the work for less than $1k.
So probably not worth me loosing a day on it...

thanks guys.

hhmmm a day of work or 600 out of pocket, i know which one id do. Plus that 600 could go to other things.

hmmmm

well half way through it now.... carby is out, intake manifold is off...
what a **** of a job!

Now i need to get a new gasket for between the carby & the intake manifold (ARGH!) & its no in the gasket set!

and there's a temp sensor/thermo switch i think with a few vacuum lines off it (its on the bottom of the manifold) & one of the plastic lines snapped off it... so i need one of them...
any ideas?
ghad damn carby's suxxor!

If you got a VRS kit the carby to inlet manifold

is in the kit

as one of the flat pieces of the cut out sections

we dont normally take the carby off the inlet manifold when removing a head

the vrs Kit will have several inlet manifold gaskets choose the one for the carby (it is not marked so use the inlet manifold /and head /as a guide before you fit

as for breaking of the temps sender little plastic hose push-ons you are not the first

cheers buff...

i just couldnt see a way to get to the lower intake manifold bolts without getting the carby off... i'm sure you could... but what a pain in the ..., pretty much like taking the carby off!

The head is now off! *happy dance*
after 58,000km its in A1 shape! very little corrosion :)

Dont think i'll bother taking the valves out...

gonna have to get some gasket remover & clean it up tomorrow & put it back together! hopefully it'll run without that lil vacuum piece, otherwise its a bicycle trip to auto one :(

nothing like a beer...

you can block off that one line of the vacumme sender unit as a temporary measure to drive the car around

the sender only activates at temperature

use a screw or piece of twig and sealant in the vacumme sender unit and vaccume pipe



inlet manifold nuts 12mm spanner one flat at a time near the carby
or a socket when you can reach a nut with one

hint put the inlet manifold and carby on before you refit the head its heavier
you have to watch the timing chain and head gasket position
but you might find it helpfull if short on time

Where's the best place to get all the belts from?

Water pump & 2 acc belts...

They're all the original parts... the water pump belt has cracks i can use as a push bike stand!

thought repco had them

bursons/supercheap /other car parts suppliers

if no choice then go to mitsi

well its all back together... *phew*

First time i've attempted something as remotely difficult as this!!!

Got all the 217 vacuum hoses on the carby back correctly!
First turn over it started!!!
blew a little smoke, but more than likely loose carbon.

Also appeared to run a little better!
Just waiting for the RTV to cure then i'll run it properly & give it a good check & comp test.

With the broken plastic bit, i just drilled it & used a air hose "reducer" (hose joiner, 2 male ends) & shoved it in there tightly, then put the hose on it!

and there was definetly no carby gasket in the kit! :(
(its a TM no a TP too)
So i actually cut one out of the left over Gray gasket material...

Any huge issues with this?
is the gray gasket OK for carby/fuel environments???

Any huge issues with this?
is the gray gasket OK for carby/fuel environments???

no problem at all


a job well done
I would like to know the brand or VRS kit you have :rant:

The one from Ringwood... I'm pretty sure its an "Ezy Fit"

Pretty much done now...

Did the timing, put it at 12 deg BTDC when warm & vacuum connected.

ran it up to temp... SOOOO much smoke from all the WD on the zorst manifold!

Checked the compression & when "warm" (not full operating temp) it was around the 140psi mark on each.

I'll do another cold start tomorrow (ran like a dog & i had to adjust the idle needle), and recheck the compression when hot.

One weird thing is the coolant, it was leaking from the head near the thermostat, so i replaced the gasket (after draining the fluid)...
now i'm left with 2-3 litres of fluid that wont go in?!?

ALso, the top hose isnt building up pressure when warm & i can hear air in there.

Whats the best way to bleed the system?
any tricks?

that 140 psi isnt good but will do for now 120psi and your in trouble

to bleed the cooling system

did you put the thermostat in with the air hole to the top

to bleed squeeze radiator hose and the air should escape

while the motor is running turn on the heater

alrighty... done!

checked the thermostat & it was OK, but i put in another new gasket & RTV'd it up & its better. Also RTV'd the hose to teh heater which wasnt 100%.
Got a lot more coolant in, but will keep the top ups happening & a watchful eye.

checked the compression & the good news is they're all absolutely identical... bad news they're identically at 150PSI.

Looks like rings (according to the haynes), as the compression jumped up by 50PSI each stroke to 150.
I'm surprised as its only got 60k on the clock, but the same oil would've been in there for about 10years while it was sitting still.
There was also a noticable lip at the top of the chambers in the block.

I'll do the valve seals when i get the tool, & that'll have to do.

Its running fine & blows no smoke at all!

Cheers buff!!!

just keep driving the car as normal 150 psi will do ---even psi is a good sign

some blocks are softer that others hence the lip

engine would need boring out new pistons rings and bearings too costly

the motor will let you know when its had its day

good luck

I was running my old TP engine with 180, 50, 20, 180 psi in the cylinders from front to rear lol.

Can't be as bad as that :D

Seriously though, it should be around 180 PSI. If the bores is as bad as you say, then you may have the same problem my old engine had - which appeared to be a jammed open thermostat causing it to run cold its whole life. Mine had only done 140,000km, but had wear equivalent to about 800,000km as I discovered at the wreckers. You really have 2 options - rebore the cylinders and get oversized pistons and rings (expensive), or just find a good condition block from a wrecker and rebuild it with new rings and bearings. You will find soon if the compression is getting that low, you will be getting heaps of oil blowby and it may even be spraying oil out the top of the dipstick tube like mine was. If there's a sort of "knocking" sound while idling too, there may be piston slap as the pistons wobble around inside the cylinders with each movement due to the excessive clearances.

Also, to get the air out of the top of the block, easiest way is to remove the temperature sender from the top of the intake manifold (i think the carby has one there too), then fill the coolant up until it starts leaking out there. Also make sure the heater is set to hot inside the cabin, as this will take coolant too. From there, just make sure you drive the car a bit and check the coolant and top up as necessary. Eventually the air will leave the system.

At least 40 of its 60k k's would definetly be little 10 min trips to the shops, so it probably never got a chance to heat up!

The temp needle always went between 1/3-1/2 when i was driving it round, so i think its running warm?!?

Ahhh sweet tip on the air, will give it a go.
I'll also throw some molasass in the sump, that'll stop the blow by! (just joking)

Hey Dave, giving away my secrets lol

Nate, I may be able to get my hands on another brand new block same as I got for Dave, if you are interested let me know.

I can make the required mods so as it will bold straight in for you

its a real nice block

Hey Dave, giving away my secrets lol

Nate, I may be able to get my hands on another brand new block same as I got for Dave, if you are interested let me know.

I can make the required mods so as it will bold straight in for you

hehe not really a secret as such - just something easily overlooked by almost everyone ;)

btw Nate,
I highly recommend you let Madmagna to take a look at ur car - he did great work on mine, and it's been running great since :D

Im going to get Madmagna to fix up my car also. I need a motor changed over in mine but also want to change over to efi so alot of work to be done but sounds like Madmagna is the man to do it. All I need is another car to buy thats efi so we can use it for all the parts then I can get a start on mine :D

I've already got 1 project car taking up all my time, so i need a reliable daily!

Took it for a good 20min drive last nite.. & the temps were really low on the gauge... it barely made it over the lowest point on the gauge.
(running like an absolute dream though!)

The air seems to be out of the system & there was plenty of pressure in the top pipe to the radiator, however the internal air temp from the heater core was pretty cold. (it used to be insanely hot!)

Thermostat is definetly in the right way...

Any ideas?
i'd normally say temp sender, but the temp of the internal air was a lot less that it used to be...

hmmmm

faulty sender or dash guage

after doing a head an engine should run cooler

oh, forgot to mention...

The sender plug when i removed it only had 1 connection connected to the sender, is that normal or was i on drugs at the time?
So it was only using 1 of the pins on the sender unit.

the sender on the top of the inlet manifold near the dissy only has the one push wire to it

great, i'm still sane...

Well i just ran it on the spot & it appears "normal"

Idle is around 1100/1250 cold, no pressure on the coolant return hose from the head (a little heat)

after 5-7min (*i think*) the heat in the return hose builds up, pressure increases & the idle drops back to the 850 mark.
Then the temp on the gauge starts coming up.
I'll give it a few small runs & see how the temps go.

I did have the intermittent issue with teh sender & fuel gauges, both would just randomly drop to 0, i'd turn the car off & on again & they'd come back to normal instantly!

would be nice to have reliable gauges though!

The instrument cluster regulator tends to be extremely unreliable on the first gens, as Mitsubishi put in an under-rated regulator. It tends to run hot all the time, and eventually fails altogether which causes fuel and temp gauges to stop working completely or become inaccurate.

The stock regulator is a 7V one, but when mine failed I just got a generic 8V regulator and put it in place. I haven't had a single problem since, and that was about 2 years ago. I also put a better heatsink on it to help cool it better.