Does anyone one at all have the answer to this? All of the mechanics say its a 'older car' it happens, or they have tried cleaning the TPS, adjusting the oxygen/ blah blah levels etc, it goes away for a bit but then comes back.

The only problem im having with my car is the Vibration it gives, when stopped at the lights, giving way etc.

The steering wheel/dash vibrates and its been happening for a long time, its not just the 2nd gens, my cousins 3rd gen verada Xi has a small amount of this and thats fairly brand new.

What the hell could it be?

Dont want to hear anything like spark plugs, dizzy cap, leads, air filter, pcv hoses, idle adjustment, transmission, fuel filter, etc

When the cars in Drive it does this, when its flicked to park or neutral it goes away.

Anyone with the answer or idea I will be very grateful. No guesses though, ive been through this for a long time.

Summers comming and I want it gone

i've noticed this in second and 3rd gens as well, it used to do it in my dads TF until the gearbox was replaced by mitsubshi, i came back one after that but when he had the gearbox serviced it went away

Our second gen was doing this, turned out to be a cracker cylinder head which let water into one of the cylinders, hopefully yours isn't that. If it was you would know, it'd be really rough when you start it up too then.

Could be anything from steering alignment (sounds odd, but has caused the problem for us a couple of times) to the timing belt needing adjusting.

I'm presuming by vibrating you mean not shaking crazily but enough to be visible in the steering wheel?

Edit: As perry said the tranny is probably a good place to start as well. If you don't have the $$$ atm to get anything serviced a temporary fix is to drop the car into neutral when you stop.

Our second gen was doing this, turned out to be a cracker cylinder head which let water into one of the cylinders, hopefully yours isn't that. If it was you would know, it'd be really rough when you start it up too then.

Could be anything from steering alignment (sounds odd, but has caused the problem for us a couple of times) to the timing belt needing adjusting.

I'm presuming by vibrating you mean not shaking crazily but enough to be visible in the steering wheel?

Edit: As perry said the tranny is probably a good place to start as well. If you don't have the $$$ atm to get anything serviced a temporary fix is to drop the car into neutral when you stop.


It's more of a vibrating feeling, its not shaking. It sort of pulses through the dash, the steering wheel vibrates. The transmission is fairly new, its just been reconditioned, its the original mitsubishi transmission and its been serviced after that also, its powerful and it flys, im sure its not that.

Not sure it it could be the ISC or something along those lines, if it was a cylinder head it would be picked up, but the cars not in bad condition, it runs very good other then this.

The neutral thing at the lights is ok, not really an issue, but when in traffic and you need to roll slowly, thats when its annoying. its an Auto, would be ok if it was manual

Maybe Madmagna (Mal) might have an idea, hopefully will get it to him soon to have a look at...

And does this mean the 3rd gens have the same problem?

I will also be getting my injectors done sometime soon, have never done them since ive owned the car.

Here are some other AMC members with this:


Interesting problem as I too felt slight vibrations when at stop(traffic light, in D position) and Nothing in N position. As this was only quite light, I didnt really complain much. Thought maybe I should just send in the car for a better check up one of these days when I am feeling richer. Unless the solution for this is really obvious.

Cheers on this mission, I am sure quite a few will have to read this.

Thanks!



Like you, i also embarked on a mission to get a 'smooth' idle from my TS, and i gave up pretty quickly. Its just the astron... Never likes to idle smooth. I replaced every related external component with still no positive results in idle. The only possible factor i left was the transmission (with which i only serviced, nothing more). I thought it might be torque converter problems. One other factor i left was the electrical charging system, it may be that the components drain more electrical power at idle, creating a weaker spark (hence the **** idle) - as the alternator is not generating as much charge at low rpm.

Does anybody here hava a manual 2.6l, and does it idle smooth?
or
Does anybody have an astron with a brand new alternator and battery fitted, and does it idle smooth?

(sorry to hijack thread, but it may answer your questions)



Hey my car does this too!
Your sitting at a light in 'D' and you would feel slight vibrations through your feet (foot on brake) and slight vibrations through your ass as well, and you will notice the tach needle hovering a bit and going bak down.

IS this due to old spark plugs? Ive changed my oil, air filter, about to do (fuel filter), and timing-belt as well.

But would spark-plugs be contributing to this vibration problem?

On another note, does anyone else experience this. When you turn-on your car, do you guys hear a clicking noise? It sounds like something is loose in their somewhere. Im thinking its the alternator itself, or the alternator belt OR the timing-belt, im just assuming it could be it cause its getting old and loose so things are not as tight, so I get clicking noises??

What could be the culprit?

1) Alternator
2) Alternator Belt
3) Timing Belt
OR
4) Something else, that I dont know of.....

By the way Russian' I support you in your mission!



Interesting Read,

I have just bought a Magna TF Advance, 98 model and I too have a rough Idle while sitting at the lights.

I have observed that mine plays up in neutral as well which doesnt seem to happen to other people who have stated it only occurs in drive.
That concerns me a bit as maybe mine is not so typical as what everyone else has observed.

Mine seems to idel nicely but every 15 secs or so goes rough then back to smooth in a few secs.

Reminds me of my 85 corona when it was cold except that did it pretty constantly till it warmed up.

I plan on getting the timing belt and spark plugs changed as the car has done 94 thousand and seeing I just bought it, I would rather get all the 100 thousand kms type maintenance done now and get it out of the way.

Just had my transmission serviced yesterday for the same reason as above and they found no problem with the transmission at all.

I will keep an eye on this thread and see how you all get on with your attempts at getting a smooth idle.

The cause of the actual vibrating is more than likely the engine mounts. If they have large crackes or have sagged then its probably those.
Do the revs drop signifigantly when going from Neutral to Drive, or when you put the air con on, cos then a secondary cause may be either the ISC or the TPS.

And does this mean the 3rd gens have the same problem?


3rd gens better not have the same problem, I'm planning on buying one! Manual will eliminate the problem though :)

3rd gens better not have the same problem, I'm planning on buying one! Manual will eliminate the problem though :)

Like I said it noticed it in my cousins 2000 MITSUBISHI VERADA KJ Xi, not as bad but still noticable. He now has a 2005/6 HOLDEN CALAIS VZ black which is mint.

The trick, change car manufactures (as most ppl are doing) ill be heading towards a honda or toyota , something more reliable.

I can afford a 3rd gen now but no thanks, will be saving more to get something better.

3rd gens better not have the same problem, I'm planning on buying one! Manual will eliminate the problem though :)

They sure do have it, My TR was a pig at this.

My KE still does it, but its only a very slight vibration and only occasionally, apparently its alot worse in the 3.5's than the 3.0's, all I do is release the brakes a touch and it goes away. AFAIK this is only a real issue in the Auto's.

I think its a TR thing, mine has done it from day one and everyone I know with a TR has had the same prob.

Every time I have asked about it the mechanic says it aint worth fixing!

Our 1999 TH doesnt do it at all though

mine does it too. What are you idling at?? I find anything over 1100 rpm and the shakes stop. Have you noticed the shakes in relation to what revs your motor is sitting at?

*raises hand* I'm also getting a shake. Except mine's a bit more noticeable. My steering wheel CLEARLY shakes at idle, all plastics rattle and you can feel it through the seat.

My idle in D is 750-800, so it's just about right. No idea, I've just put it down to it being an old engine, nothing much you can do I guess.

-Ian

P.S- Sorry for thread jacking, but for all you TR/S' in auto, does anyone notice a hard jolt forward when shifting from N to D? Like, I put my foot on the brake in N, put it in D and get this massive JOLT. The revs drop to about 600 and at night, the headlights visibly dim (related to revs dropping i'm pretty sure). Is this normal for the auto's?

*raises hand* I'm also getting a shake. Except mine's a bit more noticeable. My steering wheel CLEARLY shakes at idle, all plastics rattle and you can feel it through the seat.

My idle in D is 750-800, so it's just about right. No idea, I've just put it down to it being an old engine, nothing much you can do I guess.

-Ian

P.S- Sorry for thread jacking, but for all you TR/S' in auto, does anyone notice a hard jolt forward when shifting from N to D? Like, I put my foot on the brake in N, put it in D and get this massive JOLT. The revs drop to about 600 and at night, the headlights visibly dim (related to revs dropping i'm pretty sure). Is this normal for the auto's?

everything you say here, happens in my 93 tr 4cyl. the jolt u speak of tho isnt too noticable unless the engine is cold. my cvs are shot, jolt might be something to do with that? seems to have gotten worse since the cvs had it

*raises hand* I'm also getting a shake. Except mine's a bit more noticeable. My steering wheel CLEARLY shakes at idle, all plastics rattle and you can feel it through the seat.

My idle in D is 750-800, so it's just about right. No idea, I've just put it down to it being an old engine, nothing much you can do I guess.


Yep. Drive like a manual when stopped at lights and put it into neutral when stopping. I'm sure there is something that is doing this, I have a feeling its the plate on or near the TPS, it builds up with gunk and stops it from flicking side to side, I will let you know how this goes.

Thank god I thought I was the only one with this problem, its the only real thing that I hate about my TR.

The Jolt you speak of dosent happen in mine, ever since I had the auto reconditioned. But the vibrating/shakes has always happened.

The only thing im yet to do is get the injectors done, I have no history on them, might actually get around to installing barrys fuel rail kit aswell, plus swap the O2 sensor (more aimed at fuel economy, but injectors may help with idle, might be slightly blocked?)

I will have to get some tinted windows also, cause I hate being stopped at traffic lights and my rear vision mirror is shaking.

If theres ANYONE out there who can pinpoint this to a single or multiple issue please raise your hand!

p.s its not engine mounts or cv's as mine are in top condition.

I just replaced my CV shafts, so it can't be that.

Could be engine mounts, as my engine shakes when it's in D with the bonnet open + Handbrake applied.

Would be great to know if anything can be done to reduce the shake...


Yep. Drive like a manual when stopped at lights and put it into neutral when stopping.

Supposedly, you're not supposed to do this...brakes may fail...that's what it says in owners' manual anyway...

Your brakes wont fail....

Could be your trottle cable is open to much....thats what happened to me...i moved it down a touch and voila all fixed

']Your brakes wont fail....

Could be your trottle cable is open to much....thats what happened to me...i moved it down a touch and voila all fixed


Hopefully this is it, will give it a go.

Hopefully this is it, will give it a go.

mark with some liquid paper where it is, just need a 10mm spanner thingy..and yeah its worse off just move it back (liquid paper thingy)

my mom's old 4banger TR used 2 do it till we sold it, but the mechanic said it was a broken engine mount but we never got around 2 fixing it :D

try this...

put your foot on the brake (when theres nobody around) and give it a few more revs than idle speed.... go away? yup.. its cos your car is idling too low, its like when you are driving a manual and its about to stall, its causes a small shake... adjust your idle speed and viola fixed :)

try this...

put your foot on the brake (when theres nobody around) and give it a few more revs than idle speed.... go away? yup.. its cos your car is idling too low, its like when you are driving a manual and its about to stall, its causes a small shake... adjust your idle speed and viola fixed :)

Pfft.... Mine idles at 750rpm and i still get hardcore vibration.
Its the engine mounts. My TPS/ISC is also stuffed but you can work around that by making the idle higher to compensate after I fix the engine mounts.

Nah its not the engine mounts, mine are almost brand new, they make it vibrate abit less but the problem still remains, my TPS and ISC are fine and my car still does it.

If there was someone who could pinpoint the exact problem, they could make alot of money.

The guy who reconditioned my auto transmission told me that it is only the transmission oil pump working. It is not a fault. This is for a 1st Gen. They do seem to get significantly worse as they get older. In my sedan with less than 70,000km it is hardly noticeable but it is impossible not to notice in my wagon at 260,000km. Don't stress about it. What other car in the price range has a built in back massager.

and the filter
tune the motor
then recheck the tps

get the car idleing to spec

then look over the engine mounts

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11647&highlight=injector+clean



Well before summer approaches quickly again, I will be getting my injectors cleaned and the throttle body cleaned out. Hopefully this monday or friday! Will also be doing the fuel filter and O2 sensor (I'm only doing the O2 sensor as it has no history, its at least 2 years+ old and the wire protection has peeled off, looks dodgy to me, will finally get around to installing barry's fuel rail kit also.)

Tinted windows are on the way also before summer, gotta remove the towbar also.

I will today (sat) be changing the spark plugs, and leads, dist cap and rotor. Already re-charged my K&N filter.

I hadn't really spent money on my car, so ill put some into it...


Am I missing anything? any other easy things I can replace

SUMMER = FESTIVALS = EARTHCORE!

Get that giant 1600kg dildo fixed up man!

One thing I forgot to mention guys, When My car was idling really rough, it was before I had to get my chains and guides replaced (on account that one chain broke). I realised last sunday that idle at traffic lights was MUCH more stable, not vibrating as though nervous as much as before. In fact, sitting on 750 idle in D, there was almost no vibration at all.

It may be worn out timing chains, as mine was rattling when I was stopped at lights.

Russian - Tow bar was a 10 minute job! Id get out and do it PRONTO!!!

yes my tr vibrates aswell and now it wont change gears i was told its a transmission service required and a band ajustment but i could be wrong

yes my tr vibrates aswell and now it wont change gears i was told its a transmission service required and a band ajustment but i could be wrong


Nah had mine reconditioned and overdrive band replaced, gears and trans feels 100% better, dosent effect idle, not on mine anyway

Mine is 04 and has a similar problem.....

Fuel injector cleaner has improved the problem but not fixed it

good luck

my magna does this 2 some times it runs smoothish and other times rought but only in drive

Check your idle revs guys. If you read my first post in this thread you probably noticed I mentioned cylinder heads and whatever, well that made it really bad for us, but the problem had been there for a few years prior to that. Normally when we get it serviced the idle revs are adjusted, and each and every time the problem goes away, eventually it comes back, the car goes in for service, gets the idles revs adjust back to around the 700RPM mark while its there and boom, problem solved, again.

No idea on a permanent fix though.

NOT THREADMINING, has anyone found a solution or reason as to why these cars do this? I am inclined to believe that the problem is the gearbox,however if anyones got any fresh ideas,post up here,because i too experience this vibration now and im sick and tired of it!

Its just the ECU going "out of range" over time. Its designed to be taken back to Mtisu and be adjusted with the MUT II. Actually, 2nd and 3rd Gens are supposed to have their idle adjusted whenever their battery is disconnected.

I believe its not just 1 cause, its a combo (still a strong theory is the auto box or torque convertor)

I actually placed a plastic tie around the radiator and it has cut the vibration with almost none at idle now

I believe its not just 1 cause, its a combo (still a strong theory is the auto box or torque convertor)

I actually placed a plastic tie around the radiator and it has cut the vibration with almost none at idle now

Okay,not calling mayday,but i think my situation is worse than yours. In my case,the steering wheel shakes visibly along with the engine. Mounts are in good condition though. These cars were not like this new,so it must be a wearing part of the drivetrain,and with my engine practically new 60XXX, i strongly believe it is the GB related. I did get a slight vibration with the old rattly engine,but i could safely say it was about one fifth of what it is now.

5spdvl,ill check out this theory and get back to you. But for now, i suppose that noone has found the cause,let alone the solution...

Also notice if you apply the brake pedal all the way down it happens worse, if you keep it light footed it improves

Mate this is why my next car will 100% not be a 3rd gen Magna / Verada my cousins old Xi with only 40,000 had this developing, not as bad as the 2nd gens but still annoying.

Also notice if you apply the brake pedal all the way down it happens worse, if you keep it light footed it improves

Mate this is why my next car will 100% not be a 3rd gen Magna / Verada my cousins old Xi with only 40,000 had this developing, not as bad as the 2nd gens but still annoying.

I see, well my next car won't be a mitsubishi at all. As crap as you guys may think they are, I've never seen or heard of a commodore/falcon doing this.

Anyway, yes I've noticed the brake thing, but put it down to putting extra strain on the engine, much like turning the steering wheel or something. *shrugs* I'm going to call my local mitsu dealer and ask them if they've managed to fix this problem.

It will be just a guessing game, cleaning the throttle body, cleaning the TPS all improves it but nothing completly rids the car of it. I'll let you replace the drive-chain then come back and let us all know haha.

My cousin actually upgraded to a Holden (new CALAIS ) and it dosent have this and in all the 1995+ holdens and fords I've been in never has this problem. Even the Toyotas done have this!

All I say is the TR/TS is a good p-plate car, other then that i'm over it.

It will be just a guessing game, cleaning the throttle body, cleaning the TPS all improves it but nothing completly rids the car of it. I'll let you replace the drive-chain then come back and let us all know haha.

My cousin actually upgraded to a Holden (new CALAIS ) and it dosent have this and in all the 1995+ holdens and fords I've been in never has this problem. Even the Toyotas done have this!

All I say is the TR/TS is a good p-plate car, other then that i'm over it.

Okay, my mates 1989 pug doesnt do it, my other mmates liberty doest do it, my sisters liberty doesnt do it, my mates VH 253 doesnt do it, a friends VR doesnt do it...and my gf's sportage doesnt do it...so there's something with these frigging magnas!

just get a manual 3rd gen magna, it will crap all over the crapadoors lol

just get a manual 3rd gen magna, it will crap all over the crapadoors lol

shush u...

ANYWAY- Just called mitsu, he asked me about engine mounts, then told me it's probably ISC or ECU...This might tie into what 5spdvl was saying or not but he seemed in a hurry, so I let it be...ISC is $165 new from mitsu...lol.

just get a manual 3rd gen magna, it will crap all over the crapadoors lol

Except for......pretty much all of them, from VT onwards. lol

Except for......pretty much all of them, from VT onwards. lol

and your vn,vr,vs's lol

shush u...

ANYWAY- Just called mitsu, he asked me about engine mounts, then told me it's probably ISC or ECU...This might tie into what 5spdvl was saying or not but he seemed in a hurry, so I let it be...ISC is $165 new from mitsu...lol.
Just grab a few at the wreckers and hope they work screw paying $165...

']Just grab a few at the wreckers and hope they work screw paying $165...

well yeah. lol. that was my plan. rofl

I see, well my next car won't be a mitsubishi at all. As crap as you guys may think they are, I've never seen or heard of a commodore/falcon doing this.

Anyway, yes I've noticed the brake thing, but put it down to putting extra strain on the engine, much like turning the steering wheel or something. *shrugs* I'm going to call my local mitsu dealer and ask them if they've managed to fix this problem.
I usually forget the AU is on when waiting in a parking spot or something, it runs unbelievably smooth. A TR I used to have had the crap idle as well. I never fixed it as it went up in a blazing inferno at 55,000k's, so was nearly new. When the idle was adjusted via the screw it would run fine for a while, but creep forwards at lights due to it being so high. I think the problem is the ISC (Idle speed controller).

yeah mines violent as all **** too man, i just throw it into neutral as soon as it starts
and just have to remember its in neutral (learnt from experience)

my KR Rada started doing this recently. Was noticeably better after a plug change, but still there. At 850rpm the problems goes away, but my idle is dead on 750, and wanders a little between 700-800 but shakes all the same.

One thing i have noticed is when i stall the car up, it stalls as high as 2400rpm which seems excessive. I read somewhere the stock stallie is 1600-1800? maybe the stall converter is on its way out or im in a serious need of a tranny service/replacement

my KR Rada started doing this recently. Was noticeably better after a plug change, but still there. At 850rpm the problems goes away, but my idle is dead on 750, and wanders a little between 700-800 but shakes all the same.

One thing i have noticed is when i stall the car up, it stalls as high as 2400rpm which seems excessive. I read somewhere the stock stallie is 1600-1800? maybe the stall converter is on its way out or im in a serious need of a tranny service/replacement

Well my transmission's a carry over and I reckon it's the orig one, this is the reasoning behind me thinking that it's transmission based. I don't stall the car up in fear of popping off another freaking hose somewhere.

yann, you really should have any jolts when putting the car into gear. that comes down to transmission and if i were you id service it pronto cause then it just dies.

i get the vibration too and was worse before i replaces the engine mounts, but it was better before the last service that i did, so im taking it elsewhere to be retuned.

im having the transmission rebuilt in the next couple of weeks as its **** itself from the dodgy job it had done on it previously which lasted 2 years but only 20,000ks. these guys are supposed to be honest and very very good. ill post up on how it goes with a rebuilt trans and a retune.

and your vn,vr,vs's lol

Bah, VN-VR can GTFO. VS is good, but doesn't have the same power output as a third gen.

im having the transmission rebuilt in the next couple of weeks as its **** itself from the dodgy job it had done on it previously which lasted 2 years but only 20,000ks. these guys are supposed to be honest and very very good. ill post up on how it goes with a rebuilt trans and a retune.


Costly?

The issue stems 99% from mounts. My KR had this when I got it, I replaced all mounts with Mits ones, cleaned the TB, adusted the idle (you do not need the MUTII) and the engine idled sweet as.

Mitsubishi's are known for this, I have years ago driven these when they were all but new and even then they vibrated a little. The 2.6 is especially bad for this and have always been. It is inherant of an east west engine that you feel it more. A pajero with the same motor will have the same "rough" idle but you will feel it a lot less.

It is costly to change the mounts, the after market mounts are rubbish, I have seen these sag in days once replaced.

To be more accurate, you need the MUT2 on the 6G74 and above to reset the idle correctly.

I'll have to give these a suggestions a crack at some point. Mine vibrates 6.7 on the richter scale and, of course, it has stuffed mounts all around. The gearbox is also worn but the mounts are the major factor. Eventually i'll take the entire thing out and swap the mounts + gearbox in one hit.

$220 for a set of 4 Kelpro engine mounts, not sure where you can get them retail wise. (most of what I get is bought via trade/wholesale)

Costly?

ill find out soon enough. im expecting full rebuild, retune and rear main seal to be just under $2k but well see when he has a look at it.

the mounts i had done were from autobarn as well, so they are the polyurethane ones, cost me just under $200 for the 4. hopefully can make something of them vibration wise, cause otherwise i dont really have the dosh to purchase new ones

got quoted $1850 for the trans rebuild. im being told major cause for trans playing up was cause the ECU was faulty. they had to purchase a new ECU just to be able to test it. he told me that hell throw it in for $300 bringing the total cost for the job $2185 (including the purchase of new rear-main seal which oil was pouring out of $35)

one issue i did have though is that when i did the last service i got told by a different mob that my front brakes pads need replacing. this guy recons they are still 3/4 full? first impression with the new guy is i really felt i could trust leaving my car in his hands and he seems polite and well spoken. hopefully it was a good gut feeling.

if im happy ill let you guys know who he is. he also does standard services for $85 and trans services $99 (as quoted for my gf's 2000 1.6l lancer - better price than normal cause i referred her) so the prices are very very competitive. hes in bayswater north by the way just as a location reference

Alex

Scratch what I said earlier, it's started clunking on downshifts again so I wouldn't be surprised if the major vibration is related. Think I may be up for another gearbox. Ah well, motor comes out, chance to tackle the mounts while i'm at it.

got quoted $1850 for the trans rebuild. im being told major cause for trans playing up was cause the ECU was faulty. they had to purchase a new ECU just to be able to test it. he told me that hell throw it in for $300 bringing the total cost for the job $2185 (including the purchase of new rear-main seal which oil was pouring out of $35)

one issue i did have though is that when i did the last service i got told by a different mob that my front brakes pads need replacing. this guy recons they are still 3/4 full? first impression with the new guy is i really felt i could trust leaving my car in his hands and he seems polite and well spoken. hopefully it was a good gut feeling.

if im happy ill let you guys know who he is. he also does standard services for $85 and trans services $99 (as quoted for my gf's 2000 1.6l lancer - better price than normal cause i referred her) so the prices are very very competitive. hes in bayswater north by the way just as a location reference

Alex

Sorry to say it mate, you are being stitched up badly.

300 for a tcu that can be brought from a wrecker for 70 bux max

Is your trans faulty, if the TCU was gone then the chances are your trans may be ok.

These rubbish mounts will cause vibrations like you would not believe as they are far too hard too.

Sorry to say it mate, you are being stitched up badly.

300 for a tcu that can be brought from a wrecker for 70 bux max

Is your trans faulty, if the TCU was gone then the chances are your trans may be ok.

These rubbish mounts will cause vibrations like you would not believe as they are far too hard too.

he recons the actual ECU (computer as he put it) under the dash was faulty (i assumed he was talking about the one on the left hand side behind the glovebox, or is the TCU under the dash as well?) and yes he did suggest that he can change that and see how it goes. im not in a position to purchase things from a wrecker. i need to be sure that everything runs tiptop.

the reason im getting the trans rebuilt at the same time is cause it never ran right from the time i got a cheap job done where they swapped it over 2 years ago. at the time i decided to put up with it cause i was sick of dealing with them after id gone and left my car there 5 or 6 times.

ever since then (2years and 20,000k's) it always jerked downshifting when coming to a stop or simply downshifting going around a corner. it didnt have smooth shifts up either all the time. mind you i dont thrash the car, i always warm it up and i dont rev past 3k revs unless i really have to. so thats the major reason behind the rebuild

i guess genuine rubber mounts are on their way sometime in the future :P

Guys,

just a quick check you can do - it fixed my rough idle problem (along with a whole heap of other problems) is to take the plug off your dizzy and clean the contacts on both sides of the switch. Just use an old toothbrush and some metho, clean all the green crap off the pins and the plug. I also did my TPS plug as it had green contacts too. Car runs like new now :D

Sam

Guys,

just a quick check you can do - it fixed my rough idle problem (along with a whole heap of other problems) is to take the plug off your dizzy and clean the contacts on both sides of the switch. Just use an old toothbrush and some metho, clean all the green crap off the pins and the plug. I also did my TPS plug as it had green contacts too. Car runs like new now :D

Sam

no rough idling, just vibrations. theres a difference. i replaced my dizzy cap and rotor about 10,000ks ago, im guessing theyll still be fine

replacing the button and cap wont do anything to the plug. No need to flame me mate, just offering a free fix that could solve your problem. The amount of time taken to write your reply, you could have tried it!

Goodluck working out the problem with your car:nuts:

Sam

replacing the button and cap wont do anything to the plug. No need to flame me mate, just offering a free fix that could solve your problem. The amount of time taken to write your reply, you could have tried it!

Goodluck working out the problem with your car:nuts:

Sam

absolutely no flaming, so no need to get jumpy. just saying that they are fairly new, so trying to eliminate things as i go.

so you are saying this clean thing is on the inside not on the cap or rotor?

My TJ vibrates at idle too, I am led to believe that they all do it to some extent. Doesnt bother me really, if i'm at a set of lights i just put it in Neutral and it isn't so bad.

I heard that Barry's grounding kit does wonders for this?

My TJ vibrates at idle too, I am led to believe that they all do it to some extent. Doesnt bother me really, if i'm at a set of lights i just put it in Neutral and it isn't so bad.

I heard that Barry's grounding kit does wonders for this?
Nope, they shouldn't, even my TR was as smooth as anything at idle.
Check your engine mounts mate.
If it rattles and idles like a VN then something is wrong

']Nope, they shouldn't, even my TR was as smooth as anything at idle.
Check your engine mounts mate.
If it rattles and idles like a VN then something is wrong

it doesnt rattle, it just vibrates. Mounts are fine. Ask any 3rd gen owner and they will confirm the small vibration at idle.

it doesnt rattle, it just vibrates. Mounts are fine. Ask any 3rd gen owner and they will confirm the small vibration at idle.
Small vibration? I'm not quite understanding, is it just the standard engine vibrations? Because the way you describe it is it's so bad you have to go into N...sooooooo is it even worth attempting to fix if its just standard

Mine runs smoooth at idle, can hardly tell the engine is on usually. So if its not, obviously there are some things there which arent as good as they should be. i was thinking maybe using premium fuel and frequently using injector cleaner could be a part of it?

Ollie

Mine runs smoooth at idle, can hardly tell the engine is on usually. So if its not, obviously there are some things there which arent as good as they should be. i was thinking maybe using premium fuel and frequently using injector cleaner could be a part of it?

Ollie


It helps slightly, but can never get rid of the problem. Your car may be the VERY few that have this as 2nd gens & 3rd gens including verada's also have this (may differ in amounts)

It's a very annoying problem that no one has the answer to

My TH didn't have a problem with rough idle ran smooth as....from memory revs at idle were quite low round 1200rpm (though don't quote me on that) car had 130,000 k's on it when I sold it.

The TR though is different but it has 239,000 k's on it gradually trying to bring it up to spec ie oil changes plus a heavier Penrite, flushing out the fuel system by using a higher octane petrol with detergents and also running it to empty refilling , hopefully getting rid of any sludge , water rust etc

Only had it a few weeks so its a work in progress .... i've had a couple of scares at traffic lights.:shock:

My TH didn't have a problem with rough idle ran smooth as....from memory revs at idle were quite low round 1200rpm (though don't quote me on that) car had 130,000 k's on it when I sold it.

The TR though is different but it has 239,000 k's on it gradually trying to bring it up to spec ie oil changes plus a heavier Penrite, flushing out the fuel system by using a higher octane petrol with detergents and also running it to empty refilling , hopefully getting rid of any sludge , water rust etc

Only had it a few weeks so its a work in progress .... i've had a couple of scares at traffic lights.:shock:

1200 is waaaay too high for idle. should have been around the 750rpm mark. thats where the vibration occurs

']Small vibration? I'm not quite understanding, is it just the standard engine vibrations? Because the way you describe it is it's so bad you have to go into N...sooooooo is it even worth attempting to fix if its just standard

meh i have gotten used to it now. Car runs beautifully, but its just an annoying niggly thing that sometimes gets on my nerves lol

this might be a little insight for folks, but recently i had a a S-AFC installed and tuned on my KR (mostly to help shocking fuel ecconomy as i did everything else) the car idles between 700-800rpm now (not as constant as it used to) BUT i do not get any vibration :confused: I cant work it out. Going through the fuel trim map on the apexi, they have gone 20% less fuel then standard at idle and 18%less at 1500rpm in the map. I get no check engine light so its not too lean, but this may be a function of my car overfuelling to start with.

My car has also started the usual stem seal problem but the smoke has been halved or more after the Apexi install. Which leads me to beleive that maybe magnas are tuned a little too rich, andd the added fuel actually accerbates (sic) the stem seal problem/helps create it.

Any thoughts madmagna?

absolutely no flaming, so no need to get jumpy. just saying that they are fairly new, so trying to eliminate things as i go.

so you are saying this clean thing is on the inside not on the cap or rotor?

My apologies, was a bit quick to jump there...

Yes, to explain it in more detail, the plug I am talking about is a part of the dizzy itself - not the cap or the button. It sits right on top of the dizzy and has wires going into it which make contact with some terminals on the dizzy. Over time, the rubber protection of this plug wears down and breaks - letting dirt, grit and water in there. Not good for keeping good contact.

That being said, I would love to try a S-AFC or similar on the car to see what I can get it to do.

Sam

*** UPDATE ***

So anyway last service about 2 months ago my vicious and annoying vibrating had returned, then I thought, what did they do? I remember that they had taken the radiator out to clean the top tank, and they had to cut my electrical tie that held it to the chassis that made it have no loose movement.

So went down to bunnings bought some new tie's and woke up in the morning and did it again, but this time on both sides of the radiator.

THE RESULT:

No more vibration when stationed at lights. As you can see the rubber at the top is not new so these hold it tight to the chassis and works well.

Tied through hole and radiator

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/1719/p1010038ds8.th.jpg (http://img413.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010038ds8.jpg)

Tied to a little hole on the left hand side

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4227/p1010039od6.th.jpg (http://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010039od6.jpg)

niiiiiceeee.. ill give that a go too.. sounds like a fair thing now that i think about it.. vibrates more when the fans come on..

+1 for taking a look at the radiator. When the motor is running the radiator has a vibration in it, it can be pretty visibly seen as it hits against the crossbar. The rubber on mine is perished quite badly, to the point there's visible cracks all over it, and yes, my radiator has been changed.

Good thing I bought a 100 pack of cable ties just yesterday... :D

My apologies, was a bit quick to jump there...

Yes, to explain it in more detail, the plug I am talking about is a part of the dizzy itself - not the cap or the button. It sits right on top of the dizzy and has wires going into it which make contact with some terminals on the dizzy. Over time, the rubber protection of this plug wears down and breaks - letting dirt, grit and water in there. Not good for keeping good contact.

That being said, I would love to try a S-AFC or similar on the car to see what I can get it to do.

Sam

just checked that plug you were talking about.. you were right all green and dry inside, the outer rubber is cracked too.. doesnt seem like theres much dirt going inside though. ill try the toothbrush method tonight and see how it goes.. still gonna try and change spark plugs as well coz the last time its been services plugs have been changed and its been tuned apparently and now it vibrates more than it used to.. but i want to be sure that they are the right ones with the right gap, cause that can cause some vibration as well

Cable ties didn't work here unfortunately. They may still work, but in this case there's more than one source of the vibration.

Cable ties didn't work here unfortunately. They may still work, but in this case there's more than one source of the vibration.

(depending on what car you have)

I take it you have done the typically ignition system parts, leads, plugs, dizzy cap, rotor etc

Whats your car idle on? Another cause is the idle is set too low and the car is actually struggling to stay on!

Other then that it could be the Auto, engine mounts , TPS (dirt build up) , old ISC , TB Clean etc (notice how it only sets in at idle, when at lights or giving way etc)

It idles about the standard for the ECI Multi systems, 850-950rpm (as indicated by the emissions control labels in the engine bay). Plugs and Leads are brand new, distributor cap is fine. Not 100% sure of the rotor.

I'm looking in the direction of the engine mounts. The front one is collapsed, the rear one looks like it's sagging a little. Side mounts I haven't really looked at, to be honest.

True what you said though, only happens at low RPMs and when in gear. (doesn't mean necessarily the gearbox is the culprit either)

Our galant did that and we replaced the engine mounts and it went away. Do the 2nd gens have engine shock absorber as that may be the one that not taking up vibrations

Dont worry i got all 3 mounts replaced with brand new ones and it didnt make a ounce of difference in my 2nd GEN TR 2.6lt.

I think its the ISC as i have noticed it Vibrates and if i switch the AC on it hits 400rpm also sometimes when the engine is hot well i mean running temp and i park when i start it again it vibrates and might stall even in P or N i gotta actully get it driving to come good.

I noticed something just then, not sure if it's the issue or not but still, an observation. At low revs, the range in which the car tends to vibrate, the engine sits dead upright in the engine bay, weight taken off the front engine mount.

When under normal to high RPM, the range in which the car doesn't vibrate, excessive force from the engine is placed into the front engine mount as the motor rocks forward.

Front engine mount on this one has perished badly, the rubber is no longer attached to the mount. lol

I'll have to lift the engine out, i'm guessing, to change over the engine mounts and while it's out, do the timing, fit a new ISC and/or TPS. Something I didn't want to do was lift the motor out, but I suspected it would need this done when I started working on it last year. Not a sudden issue, more of an expected inconvenience.

Could probably get away with just the front mount but as they say, a Job worth doing is worth doing well...

Just put a jack under the engine and jack it up until you can get the bolt out, then put in the new one and voila. easy as job :D

That is provided it's just the front one, i'm guessing. Suppose I could get a good front one from the wreckers, throw that in and if the problem clears up then great... if not, then the motor comes up to do all 4.

On a side note, I have a balance shaft eliminator kit here, probably a little pointless eliminating the vibration if i'm going to pull the shafts anyway... lol Although to be fair I think pulling the shafts may have no downsides provided it's done right.

That is provided it's just the front one, i'm guessing. Suppose I could get a good one from the wreckers, throw that in and if the problem clears up then great... if not, then the motor comes up to do all 4.

On a side note, I have a balance shaft eliminator kit here, probably a little pointless eliminating the vibration if i'm going to pull the shafts anyway... lol Although to be fair I think pulling the shafts may have no downsides provided it's done right.

Its pretty easy besides the rear one, but same concept, just jack up the side your doing the mount on.

It's primarily the rear one i'm concerned about swapping, still intact though so it may be alright. The rest look easy enough.

I'll look into it further when the finances are sorted.

when we got the RECONED engine put in the TR i asked the guy is the vibrating when i turned the AC on gone and he said that happens cause of the pessenger side mount.

He also proceded to tell me that they could not get another mount as Mitsubishi dont make them so old 1 was left on which was stuffed.

i replaced it with 1 out of a wrecked magna that was good and it was still Vibrating then i noticed that the mount out of the wreck was split aswell so the TR went to midas for a full 3mount change to brand newies.

Thats rear front and side.

And still vibrates to this day exactly the same as how it was with the old engine maybe the engine needs more bracing?

im sure its a REV thing though on my TR so maybe it is the ISC.

I have also heard of people filling there mounts up with sikaflex supposed to be tougher and stuff like that i have never tried this for a broken mount.

all it comes down to is on a car that cost $4000 when bought and $3500 for new engine and numerous other bits replaced for those prices im better selling it insted of trying to embark on fixing this vibrating problem cause if it aint the ISC id be looking forever in a day.

Just wondering if its just the 2.6Lt's that have this trouble how do the V6 go with vibrating?

Never Vibrated at all mate!

Hmmm how hard to go to a V6 in a 2.6lt TR.

I think in V motors the design and direction of the piston travel offsets the vibration otherwise found in an Inline motor, where the piston travel generates vibration without an offset.

There's also the fact the Magna/Verada V6 engines use different positioning for the passenger side mount.

Could well be that the Astron just needs some extra support in there to hold the engine down, although it can't be physically directly restrained as the vibration will then just travel along the restraint.

FYI a genuine mitsu engine mount (front) is $137+ GST
Guess I'll be saving up for one of these next...
Nothing beats the feeling of spending half your weeks wages on a piece of rubber...:rant:

']FYI a genuine mitsu engine mount (front) is $137+ GST
Guess I'll be saving up for one of these next...
Nothing beats the feeling of spending half your weeks wages on a piece of rubber...:rant:

which mount do you need?

Yer but as i said mate i bought all these mounts brand new at one time so the all got put in a once and it did not stop the vibration.

So u might be wasting ur cash get ur old mount and fill it up with sikflex mate boths sides of the mount rubber and let it dry then wack it back in see if there is a difference.

I know it sounds cheap but at least u will get an idea if it will still vibrate with a new mount and not cost ur wages mate.

Im thinking maybe upgrading to a V6 then really.

You say different positioning og passenger mount any physical difference to chaisis or is it just the mount itself??

The jolt is worse when cold because of your transmission fluid being less viscous and effectivly lowering your stall RPM so that at idle it is trying to drive forward more than when it is warm.


everything you say here, happens in my 93 tr 4cyl. the jolt u speak of tho isnt too noticable unless the engine is cold. my cvs are shot, jolt might be something to do with that? seems to have gotten worse since the cvs had it

To the guy who started the thread, tweak your RPM a touch higher which should help it a little. I think after time the 2nd gen gearboxes do this regardless of engine mounts or RPM, because I have seen it a lot of times.

You can try some new gearbox fluid, if it hasn't already been down within 50,000km or 2-3 years

when i start my car at cold it revs fien at about 2000rpm and then gradully drops as the cars temp gauge goes up so i dont think the revs are my prob but
i might give the gearbox fluid change a try though whats best for the auto?

To the guy who started the thread, tweak your RPM a touch higher which should help it a little. I think after time the 2nd gen gearboxes do this regardless of engine mounts or RPM, because I have seen it a lot of times.

You can try some new gearbox fluid, if it hasn't already been down within 50,000km or 2-3 years

If you are talking to me then 'been there, done that' upping it has no effect or little effect, it idles at the perfect number, upping idle means more fuel.

Hopefully moving on from mitsubishi soon anyway


when i start my car at cold it revs fien at about 2000rpm and then gradully drops as the cars temp gauge goes up so i dont think the revs are my prob but
i might give the gearbox fluid change a try though whats best for the auto?

The best oil is original mitsubishi oil - the flush will help the gearbox but has no effect on idle or the vibration.

Ok thankz mate

This Vbirating sounds like its built into the magnas mostly 2.6lt models

Just for the record, I stopped at the lights today and sure enough, it was vibrating. Idle was quite low, 600rpm, and when I turned the air conditioner on this only got worse. Revs didn't bounce back up.

I'm suspecting the Idle Speed Control may be at least partially at fault here.

Yer i was told that aswell but...they said on cold starts it wont work either u will have to compensate with abit of pedal.

I have no prob like that on cold starts it starts at 2000-2500rpm then drops down gradually untill its at normal operating temp and RPM are about 850rpm.

If i turn AC on it drops to 400-500rpm where it should rev up.

Have been reading through the Gregorys manual, and it says that in park the transaxle is locked by a pawl and notched gear (whatever they are)

Remember reading somewhere else (correct me anyone if I'm wrong) that transmission oil is diverted elsewhere while in park/foot on brake? Something to do with the torque converter I think?

Would make sense for this to be a transmission issue if the vibration goes away when neutral is selected. Can someone who is experiencing this vibration problem try putting car in park and applying handbrake and removing foot from the brake (very briefly). Is this the same sort of vibration?

The pawl and notched gear is simply the park pin sliding in to a cog, to lock the gearbox. It also disengages the input shaft from the planitary gears, as does neutral, via the clutch packs.

Yes i have put it in to park and the vibrating goes away but only cause it revs higher then in D.

I have tried dropping the revs in P and the same things happen.

I was looking at the engine yesterday when it is changing gears P to D and R and yer the engine has alot of movment im guessing more bracing is needed.

Guys,
I've been watching this thread with intererst and like most tr owners I have gone through ALL the supposed fixes... TPS, O2 sensor, injectors, plugs, leads, etc etc etc... this inlcuded ECU for both engine and transmission as well as a rebuilt gearbox... NOT to fix the virbation but because our TR has done close to 400k's and wont die aparet from ongoing maintenance and tlc and it does a great job of getting my daughter to and from uni.

Having just changed ALL engine mounts (not just the ones that are easy to get to I can categroically say it is the engine mounts...

The old ones looked good but were simply soft.

If you have any doubts and assuming everything else is ok then put a block of wood under the engine and jack it up just enough to get the weight onto the jack and off the mounts... put it in drive (from inside the car obviously and with care) and I guarantee you the vibration will go away.... when it does it proves it can only be the mounts no matter how good they look.

Oh and I'd take a good TR / TS even with the shakes at idle over a dunnydore any time...

Ok well maybe the brand of mounts that i got put in are crap as i had them all replaced and it still had the Michael J foxes and they were brand new..

LOl @ the dunnydore statement lol.

if the mounts are a bit soft pm Screamin TE he is making new solid one for a 3rd gen he might be able to make a set up for a 2g

if the mounts are a bit soft pm Screamin TE he is making new solid one for a 3rd gen he might be able to make a set up for a 2g

hardly.. i purchased new polyurethane ones and they are too hard and dont absorb the vibration as well..