How would i go about installing a 4x100watt amp into the car's power line? I don't want to blow fuses or overdraw some transformer. Any ideas? the audio part i'm confident with just where to install the power to the amp.

Amp: Jaycar 4x100WRMS
Speakers: 2x 6.5' response kevlar coaxials,(power consumption 75WRMS 2 x 6"x9" response kevlar coaxials (power consumption 80WRMS) Both speakers are rated at 4ohms and are supplied with crossovers.

Will i need to replace the speaker wire that my stock speakers are fitted with? or can i just use the existing speaker wire? Or should i just replace the whole lot since there going to the amp anyway.

I will need a complete wiring kit yes?

The amp also has low pass filters, so i shouldn't need a crossover if i wanted to install a subbie later.


Cheers guys!

You diiid get a car amplifier didn't you?? Something like a 20kg Marantz home theatre jobbie ain't gonna work too well for you in a car :P

You will need a wiring kit or at least some sort of extra wiring for your car to wire up the amp. an 8gauge kit will do fine. Basically, you'll need a power wire, that runs from the battery to the amp with a fuse, a remote wire from the headunit to the amp to switch it on, and a ground wire from the amp to the chassis. Lastly, RCA cables from headunit to amp for signal....

Btw, if you provide some other details like what headunit you have, speakers, where you are mounting amp we'd be able to provide more information.


umm...run the positive wire from the positive terminal of the battery with a fuse near by (make sure you mount the fuse properly) and feed the wire through the firewall through a grommit. Keep the ground wire to the chassis as short as possible. You could mount the amp under the front seats somewhere...make sure you mount it so it doesn't move around.

You diiid get a car amplifier didn't you?? Something like a 20kg Marantz home theatre jobbie ain't gonna work too well for you in a car :P

You will need a wiring kit or at least some sort of extra wiring for your car to wire up the amp. an 8gauge kit will do fine. Basically, you'll need a power wire, that runs from the battery to the amp with a fuse, a remote wire from the headunit to the amp to switch it on, and a ground wire from the amp to the chassis. Lastly, RCA cables from headunit to amp for signal....

Btw, if you provide some other details like what headunit you have, speakers, where you are mounting amp we'd be able to provide more information.


umm...run the positive wire from the positive terminal of the battery with a fuse near by (make sure you mount the fuse properly) and feed the wire through the firewall through a grommit. Keep the ground wire to the chassis as short as possible. You could mount the amp under the front seats somewhere...make sure you mount it so it doesn't move around.

Hey mate, I updated the first post, where's the firewall? Also where do i attach the remote wire to? Is it a better option to wire the fuse closer to the amp or closer to the battery?

I'll probably mount the amp in the boot, or maybe under the seat, depending on how high the amp is.

Cheers mate! all help is much appreciated!

what model is your magna?
there should be a rubber gorment just above where the clutch pedal would be that has two pipes attached to it
should be able to poke a hold in there to get the wire through
remote wire gets attach from the deck to the amp
the deck should have a remote wire on the harness (blue/white wire)
the fuse should be place as close to the battery as possible
mounting the amp in the boot on a amp panel is a good idea
thats where i've go mine mounted :D
stock wiring will also be fine, might need to crimp/soldier on some new connections

Don't mount it under your seat!!

They cause to much hassles, and with wires hanging around the amp, if you move your seat to much the wires could possibly come loose and earth out to your seat. (= not good)

Also it can cause the amp to overheat very quickly. Been there, done that, don't do it.

If you are going to use your factory speaker wires, you will need to identify each wire behind the head unit. You will have approximately 12 wires.
They should be as follows;
Left Front Speaker +
LF sp -
RF sp +
RF sp -
LR sp +
LR sp -
RR sp +
RR sp -
Main power + wire (this has + power at all times) Usually but not always red.
Accessory power + wire (only has power when ignition is on or in acc position) Usually but not always yellow.
Ground - wire. Usually but not always black.
Lighting wire (to dim stereo lights/display when headlights are on at night) This wire has + power when headlights are switched on.
You will need a testing lamp to identify the above power wires.

Identify the remaining speaker wires as follows.
Sometimes the easiest way to do this can be to peel back the door skin and look at the wire colours as they plug in to each individual speaker.

If you cant do that, another way is to get a 9 volt battery.
touch one wire to the + side of the 9 volt and any other of the wires to the - side. By a process of elimination you can identify which speaker wire is which.
When you have two wires from the same speaker attached to the 9 volt, you will hear a crackling sound from that speaker. then mark those wires as Front Left for example.

Once you know which wire is which behind the headunit, you need to run extension speaker wire from there to the amp.

When cutting speaker wires at the loom, always leave enough wire on the loom to enable reconnection at a later date (if you ever remove the amp for example).

Make sure also that if you are cutting or working with power wires that you isolate them from the battery first. No point blowing fuses unnessecarily.

I hope this helps. It's sometimes hard to write your knowledge down in such a way that others can interpret it.

This will help also.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

How would i go about installing a 4x100watt amp into the car's power line? I don't want to blow fuses or overdraw some transformer. Any ideas? the audio part i'm confident with just where to install the power to the amp.

Amp: Jaycar 4x100WRMS
Speakers: 2x 6.5' response kevlar coaxials,(power consumption 75WRMS 2 x 6"x9" response kevlar coaxials (power consumption 80WRMS) Both speakers are rated at 4ohms and are supplied with crossovers.

Will i need to replace the speaker wire that my stock speakers are fitted with? or can i just use the existing speaker wire? Or should i just replace the whole lot since there going to the amp anyway.

I will need a complete wiring kit yes?

The amp also has low pass filters, so i shouldn't need a crossover if i wanted to install a subbie later.


Cheers guys!

Hey..

DO you have an aftermarket headunit?

Extra info is useful. You can run new speaker wire if you really wanted. I just have a habit of running new speaker wires whenever I install speakers, but that's just me. The existing speakre wires will do fine though. Just up to you if you want to run new wiring.

Where you want to mount the amp is completely up to you. Just get a complete wiring kit if you don't already have some of the items. Again, a 8 gauge kit will do fine for your existing setup, however if you want to add another amp later, you will need to upgrade to a 4 gauge kit (at least). Once again...if you don't intend on upgrading in the future, or are willing to get new cables later once you upgrade, then just get an 8 gauge kit.

In the kit, you'd need 6-7 metres of cable (depends on where you mount the amp) the further away from the battery, the more cable you need (obviously), coulpe of crimp connectors, including ring and spade ones. I like using ring terminals for all connections, and dremeling off the excess bits to fit onto the amp terminals. Ring terminals pretty much ensure your cables don't slip off the connection to your amp etc. Fuse and fuse holder..something like, 60 or 80 amp even...will do fine.

As for the low pass setting, yeah, you only need to switch it to that if you're running a sub...or you don't want to listen to high frequencies :P

Being 4ch, you would probably end up bridging two channels to run the sub...more on this later when the time comes.

Yeah thats what i was going to do, run the 4 speakers on 2 channels, then bridge the other 2 channels to run the sub.

Thanks kiwisimon2006. Identifying speaker cable and such is no problem, i have a multimeter anyway, just the power for the battery to amp and the remote wire...everything else is pretty easy, just time consuming EG wiring up the speakers.

Cheers guys! the more the merrier!

By the way guys, my HU is an aftermarket model, a Panasonic VX303.

Another question lol. When installing the system, i do not run the speakers from the head unit speaker output, i simply run the RCA out to the amp (amp power and such aside) and then attach speaker wire to the amp speaker terminals, there should be no connection to the speaker terminals on the HU. Am i correct on this?

Another question lol. When installing the system, i do not run the speakers from the head unit speaker output, i simply run the RCA out to the amp (amp power and such aside) and then attach speaker wire to the amp speaker terminals, there should be no connection to the speaker terminals on the HU. Am i correct on this?

yup



all speaker wires should come from the amp

yup



all speaker wires should come from the amp


Thanks mate! I'll probably post more questions as the come across my mind!

Are there any other problems/common mistakes/misconceptions that a novice might come across whilst or after installing his system?

Thanks mate! I'll probably post more questions as the come across my mind!

Are there any other problems/common mistakes/misconceptions that a novice might come across whilst or after installing his system?

I've just picked up something while skimming thru this thread and eating...

YOu sid you wanted to run 4 speakers and a sub off this amp later? YOu will only be able to run two speakers and a sub off this amp later, otherwise your front and rear channels will sound exactly the same. THis will stuff up your imaging bad. Not to mention if you wire it up in parallel, the impedence may be too low for your amp to handle.

Other than taht....if you are running new speaker wires through....HAVE FUN MATE!:badgrin: I hated feeding the wires thru the front doors. Oh, another hint, keep the RCA cables away from your power cables. A good way to do this is run all your power/speaker cables together, down one side of the car, and run the RCA cables down the other side, or down the centre(requires more pulling apart of stuff). Reduces chances of noise in the RCAS.

Lastly, this has been repeated many times. For grounding point for the amp, make sure you find a solid piece of metal, grind away all the paint until its a shiney metal surface, and bolt it on. Lots of people that have stereo 'issues' have ground problems.

Oh, disconnect the battery (-ve terminal) whilst you do this...don't want your battery to explode or stuff to melt and weld itself to the car:P

Have fun.

Ah yes i see, i should have realized that, the retard at supercheap didn't know what he was on about. In that case i could probably get away with running a 4x50w amp yes? or am i better off spending another $150 and getting the 4x100w

Also, If there's only 2 RCA's out to the amp (left and right), then how does my imaging get affected? unless there's more RCA outputs.

Sorry, I'm new to the car audio thing lol.

Once again your help is much appreciated!

your better off getting the 4x100w amp cos your head unit itself probably puts out something close to the 4x50w amp. so it would be pointless to get an amp with as ,much power as your head unit.

your better off getting the 4x100w amp cos your head unit itself probably puts out something close to the 4x50w amp. so it would be pointless to get an amp with as ,much power as your head unit.

Good luck champ, average head deck puts out 4x 20WRMS. A 50WRMS amp will be leaps and bounds above the decks on board amp due to more than brute power. Channel separation, damping, THD will all be better out of a decent amp.

I also read someone say not to mount the amp under a seat, I don't see the problem with it as long as you install the amp tightly. The bigger amps like the 4x 100 will not fit unfortunately so you don't have an option with that amp...

Amps are divided into 3 sections, power, input and output signal.

Power: You will need to have a power cable running from the +ive terminal on the battery to the amp. This cable will need to have a fuse within about 30cm from the battery. The Amp rating should be about 10% greater than the combined total of the fuses on you amp. Rough rule of thumb, 8gauge up to 500WRMS, 4gauge up to 1000WRMS, 0gauge for anything above 1000WRMS ( its not worth mucking around with 2gauge )

You will need a grounding cable. It should be the same size as the power cable and needs to go to a part on the chassis. Just find the nearest bolt and screw it in.

Lastly you will be a remote turn on wire, to turn it on.. obviously. This runs from the rear of your head deck to the amp. It will be either a remote turn on or the same output that controls a power aerial.

Input: Low level RCA cables are the best here. You will need a RCA per channel. The cables are usually paired for stereo sound ( left / right ). So obviously to run a 4 channel amp, you will need 2 pairs of RCA cables. These run from the rear of head deck to your amp, make sure you keep them away from the power cable.

Output: These are the speaker cables. 16 gauge is fine for 100WRMS, any more you can double it up to make the equivalent of a 12gauge wire. You will notice on the amp a "bridge mode", thats to turn the stereo sound into mono, perfect to run a 4ohm sub.

Where about do you live cause I'm sure someone can help. :D

Good luck champ, average head deck puts out 4x 20WRMS. A 50WRMS amp will be leaps and bounds above the decks on board amp due to more than brute power. Channel separation, damping, THD will all be better out of a decent amp.

I also read someone say not to mount the amp under a seat, I don't see the problem with it as long as you install the amp tightly. The bigger amps like the 4x 100 will not fit unfortunately so you don't have an option with that amp...

Amps are divided into 3 sections, power, input and output signal.

Power: You will need to have a power cable running from the +ive terminal on the battery to the amp. This cable will need to have a fuse within about 30cm from the battery. The Amp rating should be about 10% greater than the combined total of the fuses on you amp. Rough rule of thumb, 8gauge up to 500WRMS, 4gauge up to 1000WRMS, 0gauge for anything above 1000WRMS ( its not worth mucking around with 2gauge )

You will need a grounding cable. It should be the same size as the power cable and needs to go to a part on the chassis. Just find the nearest bolt and screw it in.

Lastly you will be a remote turn on wire, to turn it on.. obviously. This runs from the rear of your head deck to the amp. It will be either a remote turn on or the same output that controls a power aerial.

Input: Low level RCA cables are the best here. You will need a RCA per channel. The cables are usually paired for stereo sound ( left / right ). So obviously to run a 4 channel amp, you will need 2 pairs of RCA cables. These run from the rear of head deck to your amp, make sure you keep them away from the power cable.

Output: These are the speaker cables. 16 gauge is fine for 100WRMS, any more you can double it up to make the equivalent of a 12gauge wire. You will notice on the amp a "bridge mode", thats to turn the stereo sound into mono, perfect to run a 4ohm sub.

Where about do you live cause I'm sure someone can help. :D

Thanks man, I'm in the western suburbs of melbourne.

The 4x50watt amp is rated at RMS. My HU is 37 watt peak, thats about 17 watts RMS...not even close...allthough i most as well get the 100 watter and get full power out of the speakers if need be (allthough a basic rule of electronics: bad to run anything at absolute maximumn)

My HU has 2RCA outs...i hanvn't looked at it yet but thats what it's been told, I assume there is one for each speaker (relatively).

Lastly, this has been repeated many times. For grounding point for the amp, make sure you find a solid piece of metal, grind away all the paint until its a shiney metal surface, and bolt it on. Lots of people that have stereo 'issues' have ground problems.

Oh, disconnect the battery (-ve terminal) whilst you do this...don't want your battery to explode or stuff to melt and weld itself to the car:P

Have fun.

hey mate, instead of disconnecting the negative terminal, couldn't i just ground the amp first before connecting the power cable?

hey mate, instead of disconnecting the negative terminal, couldn't i just ground the amp first before connecting the power cable?

no, cause then there still be power running through the cable
not a smart move when playing with electrics thats for sure
just disconnect the negative terminal on the battery
takes like 1 min and kills everything in the car

The fact that you only have two RCA outs on your headunit may cause imaging issues for you. Get RCA splitters if you really want to amplify all your speakers. This would mean that all the RHS speakers would be playing the same thing, and so would all the LHS ones. Not that much of a biggie anyhows.

Yeah, you must disconnect it at the battery.

Did you mean two RCA outputs, or two pairs of RCA outputs?

ie a red output and a white output, or two of each?

Did you mean two RCA outputs, or two pairs of RCA outputs?

ie a red output and a white output, or two of each?

ummm its the same thing mate
two RCA outputs mean two pairs of RCA outputs

ummm its the same thing mate
two RCA outputs mean two pairs of RCA outputs

I think what he was asking was whether the headunit had a pair (just front channels) or two pairs, meaning whether it had two or four physical plugs, putting out front and rear channels.

I'm assuming he has a pair (only front channels)

I think what he was asking was whether the headunit had a pair (just front channels) or two pairs, meaning whether it had two or four physical plugs, putting out front and rear channels.

I'm assuming he has a pair (only front channels)

Yes, that is what I meant, although I suspect noone makes a unit with just one pair anymore.

no, cause then there still be power running through the cable
not a smart move when playing with electrics thats for sure
just disconnect the negative terminal on the battery
takes like 1 min and kills everything in the car

But untill i connect both terminals there will be no power travelling through the amp anyway, electricity needs a complete circuit in order to travel, power isn't going to go through the amp untill both ground wire and positive are connected.

If i do disconnect my battery, won't i lose my ECU?

I think what he was asking was whether the headunit had a pair (just front channels) or two pairs, meaning whether it had two or four physical plugs, putting out front and rear channels.

I'm assuming he has a pair (only front channels)


Hey mate

I assume it's 2 pairs, i'll take the dash apart tomorrow if i get the time and check it. It's a Panasonic VX303, and i can't seem to find any maunals or diagrams for it that arent in japanese.

are you after the spec on the HU if so:
panasonic double DIN head deck VX303
4*37W
CD+tape
2 AUX inputs
2 RCA outputs
double din (eg big face)
CFL backlight

according to this information, does that mean two pairs or just one pair of RCA outputs?

But untill i connect both terminals there will be no power travelling through the amp anyway, electricity needs a complete circuit in order to travel, power isn't going to go through the amp untill both ground wire and positive are connected.

If i do disconnect my battery, won't i lose my ECU?

i would just take the negative terminal off just incase you do something wrong and go blow some fuses or something
better to be safe than sorry
as for your ECU, do you have an auto or manual?
manual you'll be fine, auto you have to let it idle in P for 10mins or more then take it for a granny drive so it can learn when to change gears
oh and you should get an S where your ODO would be, just hold in mode and it'll change to 3.5, hold mode again and the ODO should show again

i would just take the negative terminal off just incase you do something wrong and go blow some fuses or something
better to be safe than sorry
as for your ECU, do you have an auto or manual?
manual you'll be fine, auto you have to let it idle in P for 10mins or more then take it for a granny drive so it can learn when to change gears
oh and you should get an S where your ODO would be, just hold in mode and it'll change to 3.5, hold mode again and the ODO should show again

I have an analogue odometer, does this make a difference? It's an auto. i could put a rubber block between where i'm bolting the amp earth to, stopping current flow, then adding positive, either way, hooking up the power will be the last thing i do.

i would just disconnect the battery as i have done many times before((-) only)), then wire it all in, and hook power back up, thats the best way, and yeah use a rubber block on the terminal if thats best, whatever insulates

']i would just disconnect the battery as i have done many times before((-) only)), then wire it all in, and hook power back up, thats the best way, and yeah use a rubber block on the terminal if thats best, whatever insulates

But if i dissconnect my battery, I'll likely have to reset the ECU...I don't want to do that lol.

But if i dissconnect my battery, I'll likely have to reset the ECU...I don't want to do that lol.

Well depends which way you wanna go :P

Unless you wanna run the power cable and earth cable and then just before your going to screw it all in, then disconnect the (-) terminal on the battery, screw your amp earth in, then replace the (-) terminal lead?

But if i dissconnect my battery, I'll likely have to reset the ECU...I don't want to do that lol.
You don't have to reset the ECU, disconnecting your battery automatically resets it... :confused:

']Well depends which way you wanna go :P

Unless you wanna run the power cable and earth cable and then just before your going to screw it all in, then disconnect the (-) terminal on the battery, screw your amp earth in, then replace the (-) terminal lead?

I could attach power cables to my amp, then after attaching them i could ground the ground cable and attach the positive power cable. I don't wanna have to do a granny drive to reset my ECU.

The only safe way to connect your amp up power wise without disconnecting the -ive terminal is to do the following:

*Mount the fuse box / cylinder for the power cable and make sure the fuse is not in it.
*Connect the power cable to the fuse box / Cylinder and run it to the +ive terminal on the battery.
*MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE THE FUSE OUT and run the rest of the power cable through the firewall and to the amp.
*Connect up everything else and LASTLY when everything is hooked up securely, put the fuse in.

On other note, make sure that all your gains are set down to 1/4 before you go turning anything on. Once it is all in, the next step will be tuning.

My advice to you would be to get the more powerful 4 channel amp ( 4x100WRMS ) and run your front speakers off channel 1 and 2, and bridge channel 3 and 4 to run the sub. Run your rears off the deck.

']Well depends which way you wanna go :P

Unless you wanna run the power cable and earth cable and then just before your going to screw it all in, then disconnect the (-) terminal on the battery, screw your amp earth in, then replace the (-) terminal lead?

couldn't i run the power/ground cables (whilst being insulated) to the amp but not connect them, then once everything is set up i connect it at the last minute with great caution, positive first.

whaddaya reckon?

The only safe way to connect your amp up power wise without disconnecting the -ive terminal is to do the following:

*Mount the fuse box / cylinder for the power cable and make sure the fuse is not in it.
*Connect the power cable to the fuse box / Cylinder and run it to the +ive terminal on the battery.
*MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE THE FUSE OUT and run the rest of the power cable through the firewall and to the amp.
*Connect up everything else and LASTLY when everything is hooked up securely, put the fuse in.

On other note, make sure that all your gains are set down to 1/4 before you go turning anything on. Once it is all in, the next step will be tuning.

My advice to you would be to get the more powerful 4 channel amp ( 4x100WRMS ) and run your front speakers off channel 1 and 2, and bridge channel 3 and 4 to run the sub. Run your rears off the deck.

The deck is nowhere near powerful enough even when bridged to run the rears. it's 4x37Watts peak, bridged thats no more then 40watts WRMS. Both rear speakers consume 80WRMS, thats no where near enough power and the front speakers will be able to go much louder then then the rear.

Also whats this firewall thing...i never new it existed, instead of connecting it to the fuse box, could i run a fuse along the power line except mount it in a convenient place? all the slots in my fuse box seem to be completely full. and where abouts would i mount the power cable? ground is no problem as there's a connection straight to my boot door.

I do like your idea about installing the power though...good thinking mate :) still gotta be carefull that the negative doesn't trip any earthed conductors.

Also...whats a cylinder lol.

and how would i go about connecting the power lead to the battery? should i solder it along the line somewhere? or should there be somewhere that i can clip it in?

cheers.

The deck is nowhere near powerful enough even when bridged to run the rears. it's 4x37Watts peak, bridged thats no more then 40watts WRMS. Both rear speakers consume 80WRMS, thats no where near enough power and the front speakers will be able to go much louder then then the rear.

Also whats this firewall thing...i never new it existed, instead of connecting it to the fuse box, could i run a fuse along the power line except mount it in a convenient place? all the slots in my fuse box seem to be completely full. and where abouts would i mount the power cable? ground is no problem as there's a connection straight to my boot door.

I do like your idea about installing the power though...good thinking mate :) still gotta be carefull that the negative doesn't trip any earthed conductors.

Also...whats a cylinder lol.

and how would i go about connecting the power lead to the battery? should i solder it along the line somewhere? or should there be somewhere that i can clip it in?

cheers.

See the picces for what I mean. Fuses holders can come in box form or cylinder form. The first 2 are my magna engine bay from which I ran 2x 2channel amps. The last pic with the Optima is out of my Bora and has proper battery terminals and full earthing kit.

You will want the sound to come from the front due to your ears facing that way. Rear fill is really only for if you have people in the back or get cheap speakers that can not play loud enough for you. I wouldn't worry about the power ratings of the 6x9's, you give them 80WRMS and they wont sound much different from giving them 50WRMS. If your deck has an inbuilt HPF for the speakers then running the rears off the deck should be ok.

The firewall is where you feed the cable through to get into the cabin. I can take some pics if you are still stuck..

See the picces for what I mean. Fuses holders can come in box form or cylinder form. The first 2 are my magna engine bay from which I ran 2x 2channel amps. The last pic with the Optima is out of my Bora and has proper battery terminals and full earthing kit.

You will want the sound to come from the front due to your ears facing that way. Rear fill is really only for if you have people in the back or get cheap speakers that can not play loud enough for you. I wouldn't worry about the power ratings of the 6x9's, you give them 80WRMS and they wont sound much different from giving them 50WRMS. If your deck has an inbuilt HPF for the speakers then running the rears off the deck should be ok.

The firewall is where you feed the cable through to get into the cabin. I can take some pics if you are still stuck..

Ah cool man! i want the rears to be fully powered as well, no shortcuts here lol, although a 5 channel amp would be handy so i can run everything off the one amp.

Cheers man! thanks for the pics. I'll add this to my gathered knowledge!

Ah cool man! i want the rears to be fully powered as well, no shortcuts here lol, although a 5 channel amp would be handy so i can run everything off the one amp.

Cheers man! thanks for the pics. I'll add this to my gathered knowledge!

But damn are they expensive!

couldn't i run the power/ground cables (whilst being insulated) to the amp but not connect them, then once everything is set up i connect it at the last minute with great caution, positive first.

whaddaya reckon?

mate if you reckon its safe then go ahead
but trust me this isnt the path you would wanna take
just take the negative terminal off from the battery like some people have suggested
its the only safest way when installing an amp

listein to Mr_Robertor, i can tell you, almost weekly we have someone come into the workshop telling us one of the amps blew, when we ask, they tell us, oh, i discounted the earth to do some stuff when i hooked it back up it sparked and then the amp dosent work

what this equals is no warranty

i will write the next thing in big red writing

never do any work with eletricals on your car, without first unhooking the battery, i mean never.

Marty didn't do the installation on your VW did he?

That busbar for the grounds looks like signature FHRX work :P I like shiny bolts.

Btw, this thread has draaagged on for a while. Look, if you are that worried about resetting your ECU, then wire it up at your own risk. You have been warned. Having an ECU that resets is just part of the joy of owning a magna.

You can just feed all the cables thru carefully, and do the positive cable to the battery last..still, you should never undertake a job where there are risks you can't manage or pawn off to others, hehe.

Marty didn't do the installation on your VW did he?

That busbar for the grounds looks like signature FHRX work :P I like shiny bolts.

Btw, this thread has draaagged on for a while. Look, if you are that worried about resetting your ECU, then wire it up at your own risk. You have been warned. Having an ECU that resets is just part of the joy of owning a magna.

You can just feed all the cables thru carefully, and do the positive cable to the battery last..still, you should never undertake a job where there are risks you can't manage or pawn off to others, hehe.

Yeah nothing but the best I reakon! Just wish I got the blue power and white earth, that would have looked sweet, but I am happy none the less.

Everything powered will be hard, 4channel amp plus a nice 2ch or mono block will do...

I'm just chiming in to say that there is some awesome advice in this thread. I'm slowly gathering the bits and pieces for my first custom audio install and the wiring is the bit I'm taking the most time to get my head around.