Guys i have done a search of the forum about disconnecting the torque converter lock up wire and i think i need to do it as i have some high speed shudder and it seems the simplest fix but can anyone show me exactly where it is? Thanks

sounds like a stupid fix to me

check suspension wheel balance cv's and the list goes on

removing the lock up will in the end kill your box to simplify things...

a recoed magna convertor (if that is the problem is pretty cheap, do the research)

replace it with a high stall and gain at least a second.

drove brother in laws worked corvette today, has a pretty savage torque coverter but does 0-100 in about 4 secs.

would be a crappy day to day drive, but the launch force makes you overlook such things.

wheels, cv's, suspension etc is all good. I purchased a ks verada so i am going to sell it shortly. I dont want to spend alot replacing auto trans/converter

Pull the 4A/T fuse in the fuse box. It will put the transmission in limp mode, and disable the L/U converter, and let you know if it's that.

Guys i have done a search of the forum about disconnecting the torque converter lock up wire and i think i need to do it as i have some high speed shudder and it seems the simplest fix but can anyone show me exactly where it is? Thanks

easiest way if you have a TM/TN is to cut the yellow/red wire at the coolant temp sensor. while the tcu thinks the engine is cold, it will not operate the lockup clutch.

i used to have this shudder in overdrive and cut that wire as a fix... but i flushed my fluid and it went away.

easiest way if you have a TM/TN is to cut the yellow/red wire at the coolant temp sensor. while the tcu thinks the engine is cold, it will not operate the lockup clutch.

i used to have this shudder in overdrive and cut that wire as a fix... but i flushed my fluid and it went away.


Does that work with the TP as well? I will drain the fluid and replace it this week and see if that makes any difference.

take the pan off
and post the colour of the oil and

how much metal and band material

is on the filter and the magnets

go from there

high speed shuddder may be the torque converter or broken gears in the box

Ok, took the pan off the trans, didnt look to bad at all, refilled the trans, ran it for 5 or 10 minutes, dropped the oil and refilled it. No change, still shudder at high speed, it is definitely the torque converter. Can anyone tell me where the lock up wire is or have another fix?

before you remove the box to replace the converter

is the shudder with over drive on and does the shudder go away after the overdrive is off around 70 KM/H

shudder may also mean an internal cog failure or chipping in the planetary gears

I drive along with overdrive on and there is no problem, smooth as until the torque converter locks up, the revs drop by a couple of hundred revs when it does and shudder starts. I can tap the accelerator and the converter unlocks and the shudder stops.

look for the red wire coming out of the front of the box near the dip stick

it may be the TTCV solenoid in the box
have that solenoid tested before you go ripping out the converter

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=824

the other problem I have found is the wire connector pins corrode or break inside connector plugs going out from the box to the rest of the automatic wiring loom

to fix that you go to a wrecker and cut another conector of a loom then solder the wires back into your own car

Thanks for your help, i will continue to investigate...

easiest way if you have a TM/TN is to cut the yellow/red wire at the coolant temp sensor. while the tcu thinks the engine is cold, it will not operate the lockup clutch.

i used to have this shudder in overdrive and cut that wire as a fix... but i flushed my fluid and it went away.

I wouldn't recommend doing this, as it will significantly affect fuel economy, as the ECU is programmed to enrich the mixture while the car is running cold.

Try getting the box into limp mode and see how it behaves, and if not, it might be a good idea to take it to a specialist for proper testing. Auto transmissions are fairly sensitive to tiny bits of sediment in the oil, and something like a sticky or jammed valve could cause any number of problems.

I wouldn't recommend doing this, as it will significantly affect fuel economy, as the ECU is programmed to enrich the mixture while the car is running cold.

ummm, wtf does it have to do with the ecu? ecu uses different coolant sensor (under the manifold). the one on the top of the manifold has two pins... one is for the gauge, the other is a temperature switch that grounds when the coolant is at a set temperatute (climate control also uses this). it is this second pin on the coolant sender that you want to disconnect and the automatic will not lock up the convertor...

i'd say just unplug that whole sender and go for a short drive. your temp guage wont work however until you plug it back in, but at least your not cutting wires which you'll have to solder to join later. i drove around for a few weeks without it plugged in (did make the guage work though with a small bit of wire and some spade terminals) to eliminate the shudder until i could be bothered fixing the problem.

if the wiring checks out then another converter is the only choice
without driving the box myself cant see any other fault that would cause you problem

make sure you use mitsubishi auto oil from then on... it is cheaper and the right oil

BXC...ur funny.....

The 2 pin plug is ONLY for the ecu, there is a separate temp sender as well....

BXC...ur funny.....

The 2 pin plug is ONLY for the ecu, there is a separate temp sender as well....

i'm talking about the one on top of the manifold, mal... not the one underneath for the ecu.

the temp senders on tm/tn have two pins on an auto, regardless of efi or carby.

ummm, wtf does it have to do with the ecu? ecu uses different coolant sensor (under the manifold). the one on the top of the manifold has two pins... one is for the gauge, the other is a temperature switch that grounds when the coolant is at a set temperatute (climate control also uses this). it is this second pin on the coolant sender that you want to disconnect and the automatic will not lock up the convertor...

i'd say just unplug that whole sender and go for a short drive. your temp guage wont work however until you plug it back in, but at least your not cutting wires which you'll have to solder to join later. i drove around for a few weeks without it plugged in (did make the guage work though with a small bit of wire and some spade terminals) to eliminate the shudder until i could be bothered fixing the problem.

The one on top of the manifold is for the temp gauge only. The two pin one on the underside of the manifold is for ECU only. The only place the transmission gets temp from is the transmission fluid itself.

The one on top of the manifold is for the temp gauge only. The two pin one on the underside of the manifold is for ECU only. The only place the transmission gets temp from is the transmission fluid itself.

and on tm/tn - the top one also lets to the transmission know the temp of the coolant for operation of the lock up clutch. Automatics have 2 pins, cars with climate control have two as well. that second pin is shared with the climate control system and the automatic.

the second wire is a yellow/red wire.

and on tm/tn - the top one also lets to the transmission know the temp of the coolant for operation of the lock up clutch. Automatics have 2 pins, cars with climate control have two as well. that second pin is shared with the climate control system and the automatic.

the second wire is a yellow/red wire.

Alright then, I didn't realise that the sensors were different between the early and late first gens. I guess no real surprise since the transmissions are quite different too though...

My tp wagon is auto and has only one wire for the temp sender unit. I have a sender on a manifold that i picked up and it has the twin pin and i wondered why.