last night some mates noticed a higher pitched rubbing noise coming from my front wheels.
checked it out today with my dad. took off the front wheels and the brakes seem to be rubbing against the rotor when the brakes arent on. could turn the rotor by hand but it wasnt easy to do like i thought it would be. the drivers side seemed to be worse than the passenger and the noise was more of a low pitched scraping noise.

checked the brake fluid and its at max. anyone know wat might be wrong here?

Check the rotor dust guards aren't rubbing against the rotor.

maybe the disc has not much left on it and has warped slightly.
have you done any hard stops lately?
Has the sound just appeared ? cos maybe the pads wern't beded in properly thus glazing the pads and disc making more noisy.
what condition are the braks in? how old are the discs and pads?
Could be somthing simple like a small stone caught between the pad and disc , but you said that you pulled them apart to check it so im guessing if that was the case ou'd see it.

Oh also the pad can move around a bit making it squeally/ and or more noisy.
You can get a spray from any auto store that you put between the back of the pad/ metal shim. It helps it stick to the shim thus not allowing it to move as much. my tp had squeally pads even though i had new pads /discs and fluid:nuts: so i used that spray as suggested by another member and it made a difference.

maybe the disc has not much left on it and has warped slightly.
have you done any hard stops lately?
Has the sound just appeared ? cos maybe the pads wern't beded in properly thus glazing the pads and disc making more noisy.
what condition are the braks in? how old are the discs and pads?
Could be somthing simple like a small stone caught between the pad and disc , but you said that you pulled them apart to check it so im guessing if that was the case ou'd see it.

Oh also the pad can move around a bit making it squeally/ and or more noisy.
You can get a spray from any auto store that you put between the back of the pad/ metal shim. It helps it stick to the shim thus not allowing it to move as much. my tp had squeally pads even though i had new pads /discs and fluid:nuts: so i used that spray as suggested by another member and it made a difference.

according to dad the disc as plenty. cant say iv done any hard stops lately either. my mates noticed the sound last night. you cant hear it in the cabin so it couldve appeared saturday. but it definitely wasnt there friday. i had my car serviced about a month ago and they never said anything about the condition of the brakes except that the car was in pretty good condition in general. i didnt pull the breaks apart just pulled the wheels off to have a look.

should my wheels be able to free spin easily wen jacked up and out of gear? cos they didnt spin easy

should my wheels be able to free spin easily wen jacked up and out of gear? cos they didnt spin easy


ok so i could be just a small stone wedged in there (fairly common). pull the wheel off and the brake pads this time to make sure there's nothing caught.

well the wheels shouldn't be that hard to turn (unless you had one tyre on the ground and the tranny i Park then yes it would be hard to turn).

This time jack up the whole front end and put axle stands under neath.
now before you take the wheels off. grab the road wheel at 12'0 clock and at 6 o'clock and push and pull with your arms , then do the same at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Now there should be no play (movement) , if the wheels move even if it's like 1 cm then more than likely your wheel bearings are starting to go and need to be replaced.

By the sounds of it (your dad and mech comments)your brakes are ok.
But there's a good chance that it's the bearings making the noise and seeing as it's near the brakes you could easily think it was the brakes first.
do you have a manual cause most of this stuff is just the basics and you could answer most of your questions by reading the trouble shoot sections and pulling it apart your self. That way your not relying on others opinions cos you can clearly see /check your self, cuts out the middle man and get you more farmilar with your own car.
just a suggestion anyways:D

ok so i could be just a small stone wedged in there (fairly common). pull the wheel off and the brake pads this time to make sure there's nothing caught.

well the wheels shouldn't be that hard to turn (unless you had one tyre on the ground and the tranny i Park then yes it would be hard to turn).

This time jack up the whole front end and put axle stands under neath.
now before you take the wheels off. grab the road wheel at 12'0 clock and at 6 o'clock and push and pull with your arms , then do the same at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Now there should be no play (movement) , if the wheels move even if it's like 1 cm then more than likely your wheel bearings are starting to go and need to be replaced.

By the sounds of it (your dad and mech comments)your brakes are ok.
But there's a good chance that it's the bearings making the noise and seeing as it's near the brakes you could easily think it was the brakes first.
do you have a manual cause most of this stuff is just the basics and you could answer most of your questions by reading the trouble shoot sections and pulling it apart your self. That way your not relying on others opinions cos you can clearly see /check your self, cuts out the middle man and get you more farmilar with your own car.
just a suggestion anyways:D

ok i have a manual that came with the car somewhere should i be using that manual or is there a different one that i should be using? which one is the road wheel? i did have one tyre on the ground but i had it in neutral (manual trans).

only needs one bolt to be undone to lift the caliper and recheck the disc pads and rotor

page two of link with pictures

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=814&start=15

TP replacing the front Brake disc pads

undo the lower 12 mm caliper nut
swing caliper upwards to clear the disk
carefully remove old pads refit new pads

brake fluid may overflow at the master cylinder so watch for dribble onto the paint work

use a G clamp to compress the caliper piston inwards
If you are doing both sides at the same time both caliper pistons need to be compressed or held in ....if not one pops out on you

drop caliper back into position and retighten caliper bolt

ok i have a manual that came with the car somewhere should i be using that manual or is there a different one that i should be using? which one is the road wheel? i did have one tyre on the ground but i had it in neutral (manual trans).

just a gregories/hanes manual is good enough. well your not about to strip your engine so the one you've got should be fine.
hehe whats a road wheel sorry but thats GOLD.
Your car has 4 road wheels (road wheel= steel or alloy rim +rubber tyre that touches the road). I only said road wheel before cos you don't sound like you had alot to do with cars. But as long as you have common sence/ manual and this forum you can't go wrong really. Cos if you stuff anything it's only your car (as in you can allways fix it) and most of the time our members can lead you step by step if you are trully stuck.

When was the last time the tranny had a drain/flush and refill.
If i was in your shoes i'd service the tranny first (cos i bet it's been awhile) then jack the car up and check the wheel bearings, if they sem tight with hardly any play then i'd take off the wheel/brake pads and disc while checking that the dust garud isn't touching and inspect for lose stones, sctraches or groves in the disc and pads then id put some adhesive spray on the back of the pad then reasemble and test drive, then go from there.

just a gregories/hanes manual is good enough

where can i get one?


hehe whats a road wheel sorry but thats GOLD.
:badgrin: you confused me with the road part. it suddenly became more complicated when road was added infront of wheel. it got me thinking if he ment wheel he wouldve just said wheel he must mean something else.:nuts:


When was the last time the tranny had a drain/flush and refill.
If i was in your shoes i'd service the tranny first (cos i bet it's been awhile) then jack the car up and check the wheel bearings, if they sem tight with hardly any play then i'd take off the wheel/brake pads and disc while checking that the dust garud isn't touching and inspect for lose stones, sctraches or groves in the disc and pads then id put some adhesive spray on the back of the pad then reasemble and test drive, then go from there.
i have no idea when that wouldve been dun to the car and iv had it for over a year and a half.

thanks heeps for your help. and you too magna buff

where can i get one?

there's allways a few on ebay (thats where i got mine , 10 bucks plus postage) or any auto store should have them or be-able to order one. like K-mart,Super cheap, Auto barn, Auto one etc etc