i have generously been given some subs and a box by a member off this forum,

2 10"s mounted onto some MDF....

ok question, what do i need to get these bad boys running? lol obviusly and amp or what ever, but im soo **** with car audio i dunno what i would need....

i think they are rated at 400W each, dno if that helps... lol sorry:redface:

obviusly i need an amp -

what type of amp do i need, how powerful, how much am i looking at.

and how do i connect all of this up!

Ok first off, before you buy the AMP, you need to figure out what the 'max power' of the the Subs is, i think it's also refered to as "RS*something*" (<-- most likely wrong, surely someone knows what it is)

so for example, i've the a 12" 1000W Sub, however the max power is only 300W

So when you find out what the power output is, get an AMP according to that, there's no point getting a 1000W Amp if the sub only puts our 300W

Secondly, you'll need a head unit which supports a sub and amp, your stock mitsi head unit will not support this

thirdly, you'll need a wiring kit which runs from you car battery to the sub/amp, find one that will support the amont of power you sub/amp will create

BEST BET = go to autobarn and ask the audio guys, they'll know for sure

Ok first off, before you buy the AMP, you need to figure out what the 'max power' of the the Subs is, i think it's also refered to as "RS*something*" (<-- most likely wrong, surely someone knows what it is)

so for example, i've the a 12" 1000W Sub, however the max power is only 300W

So when you find out what the power output is, get an AMP according to that, there's no point getting a 1000W Amp if the sub only puts our 300W

Secondly, you'll need a head unit which supports a sub and amp, your stock mitsi head unit will not support this

thirdly, you'll need a wiring kit which runs from you car battery to the sub/amp, find one that will support the amont of power you sub/amp will create

BEST BET = go to autobarn and ask the audio guys, they'll know for sure

Good to see you try to help, but there is a few things which need correcting...

Firstly, IGNORE the max power (PMPO) on your sub, it con only cope with that for less than a second before it needs to be binned. The RMS (continuous) power is what you need. So in the case listed above, 300W would be the RMS and 1000W would be the PMPO.

So say your subs are 400WRMS each, you will need an amp that can output at least this amount. More is better as it means your amp has some breathing space and isnt working flat out all the time. So yes getting a bigger amp is a GOOD idea. Getting a smaller one is a BAD idea and you will end up with smoke.

You then need to figure out... are they wired in parallel or series? Are the DVC (dual voice coil) or SVC (single voice coil)?. Reason is this will change the impedance of the subs. Some amps can handle a 1ohm load others can't. Again get the wrong amp and you will get smoke.

Yes you will need a headunit which has RCA outputs so you can feed the signal into your amps, or an amp which can take line level inputs.

With the cable from the battery, a 4 guage cable should do th job for what you want, but if you can afford it go 2 guage in case you ever want to run more amps for other speakers. It will also need to be fused as close to the battery as possible. Fuse value is just a little bit less than the value of the fuse in your amp.

And I would go somewhere a bit better than autobarn... you will get better advice here than from them.. well from the ones I have had experience with anyway.

Any more questions, let us know.

Cheers
pete

Suggestion which would do all you want...

Response 1000Wrms monoblock amplifier $299 i think from memory.
4 guage or 2 guage power cable.
12 guage wire to the subs would be heaps thick enough.
Fuse holder with the right value fuse.

Cheers
Pete

yeah what he said lol

Suggestion which would do all you want...

Response 1000Wrms monoblock amplifier $299 i think from memory.
4 guage or 2 guage power cable.
12 guage wire to the subs would be heaps thick enough.
Fuse holder with the right value fuse.

Cheers
Pete

thank u so much guys, i was clueless

i have a head unit atm, has 3 5v preouts, plus i think one for a sub too so i can control it directly form my headunit...

thanks omar too for ya input, i shall get too it!

:),

moz

i'll agree with everything poita has said but i'll add this
for the power wire to your amp instead of getting 4 or 2 guage wire from an audio shop or autobarn go to a welders supply shop and buy mig welding earth lead

will be HEAPS cheaper that the proper stuff
will work just as well
but the downside is it's not as pretty or as flexible

have fun with it :cool:

first is that 400W peak or RMS? you need to clarify that, then get an amp - usually rule of thumb i have used is the speakers are 3 times as powerful as the amp (stops the speakers/subs blowing). next you need i a wiring kit (either aeropro or stinger) get a haevier guage kit but. next is the hard part - actually doing the job.

first is that 400W peak or RMS? you need to clarify that, then get an amp - usually rule of thumb i have used is the speakers are 3 times as powerful as the amp (stops the speakers/subs blowing). next you need i a wiring kit (either aeropro or stinger) get a haevier guage kit but. next is the hard part - actually doing the job.

wtf are you on about?
ideally using the 3 times rule the amp should be 3 times more powerful than the speakers
speakers capable of 200wrms and amp capapble of 50wrms = clipping amp = dead speaker
on the other hand a set of speakers rated at 50wrms powered by a 200wrms amp will give you plenty of headroom so you're not pushing ya amp
clipping ya amp is what kills speakers not over powering them usually
ever heard the term "under powered"?

pls make sure you have your facts right b4 giving someone info on audio

it's an expensive habit and when you turn someones speakers to smoke cos they listen to you you'll get flamed seriously because of bad info

first is that 400W peak or RMS? you need to clarify that, then get an amp - usually rule of thumb i have used is the speakers are 3 times as powerful as the amp (stops the speakers/subs blowing). next you need i a wiring kit (either aeropro or stinger) get a haevier guage kit but. next is the hard part - actually doing the job.


NO NO NO NO!!!!

As said already, this will overdrive your amp, produce clipping and kill your speakers!
You get a BIGGER amp and just turn your gains down so that you won't be able to overdrive your speakers. The amp won't have to work as hard either, producing a nicer signal.