Went in to Magnawreck today to pick up a few parts, mostly the boot release cables and washer pump. Ended up with a few extras as well (for a Magna fan, that place is heaven) lol Fitted them all in, all good.

When I started it up, I noticed quite a loud "slapping" noise under the bonnet, and on closer inspection it's from around the timing/cam belt region. Sure enough, the belt seems to be shaking quite violently. Avoiding damage, I shut the engine off and haven't started it since.

The problem is that I don't know when it can be repaired, and the car is needed back on the road before Monday. So, my questions are:

1. Does it seem like the belt is about to break?
2. How hard is it to change the belt on an Astron II?

Chain on asstron 2
Belt on V6

Your better off shooting magna_buff or ol' Fart a PM on how to change the timing chain on an asstron2

Ok... i'm starting to think I have a part or two confused here. Just need to clarify, what would this be then:

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/3050/enginekp1.th.jpg (http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/3050/enginekp1.jpg)

That seems to be the culprit, and surely doesn't seem to be a chain. Chances are i'm using the wrong name for the right part. (I have a long way to go before I know these cars inside and out)

For the record, that's an old pic. It's been cleaned since then.

That's your water pump belt, a simple replacement

Yep very easy, take that plastic cover off, two 14mm bolts from memory.

Then loosen all the bolts on the water pump that connect the water pump to the engine, don't take em out just loosen them.

Grab the water pump and try and twist it upwards until the belt is slack.

Remove old belt, re-fit new one and follow the steps in reverse to tighten it all back up.

Also replace any coolant if you lost some.

Yep very easy, take that plastic cover off, two 14mm bolts from memory.

Then loosen all the bolts on the water pump that connect the water pump to the engine, don't take em out just loosen them.

Grab the water pump and try and twist it upwards until the belt is slack.

Remove old belt, re-fit new one and follow the steps in reverse to tighten it all back up.

Also replace any coolant if you lost some.

:stoopid: :stoopid:

Piss easy job.

Also

Sometimes the belt cover back bolt breaks away from the rocker cover on these, as long as it doesnt leak oil where it broke off its no biggy. The cover just flaps around.
Just take the cover off and watch yur fingers next time yur under the bonnet. :shock:

If ya take the pastic cover off keep your eyes out for a cheap rocker cover (without the broken bolt hole) and replace it when ya feel like it.

Some people just leave the cover off.:D

Thanks for the tip, i'll pick up a new belt some time this week.

For the record, that's an old pic. It's been cleaned since then.
so it looks like that pic now then :badgrin:



the engine has timing chains

link to more information

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1679

Well the timing chain seems in fairly good condition, probably been done when it was last taken in for repairs. This should be the last belt that needs done, all the rest are fairly new.

I'll admit, the motor doesn't look that much better from the pic, but at least the oil and dust have been cleaned off :neutral:

Ok, with that taken care of, as I predicted, another problem has come up. Overnight the battery went completely dead. It's a new battery, so I suspected a device had been left on. Not the case. Although all 4 doors were unlocked, so i'm wondering if it's related to the central locking system.

Is it common for a battery to go flat if the car is left unlocked for extended periods of time, or does this Magna have an electrical short?

Yeah I know, this car needs a lot done. Still writing the complete list.

battery drain if not lights left on etc

starter motor solenoid faulty

alternator regulator yep make a list

Well, it only ever happens if the doors are left unlocked... i'll check all solenoids and the alternator anyway to be sure.

Anyway, here's that To-Do list as it currently stands:


- New Negative Battery Terminal
- New Battery Holder
- New Washer Hose Splitter
- New Transmission
- New Passenger Door External Handle
- Interior Roof Sagging, Restick
- Paint Respray/Repair
- Panel Dent Repair
- Retint Windows
- New Wheel Covers

All are just worn components, except for the transmission which was ruined after one of the Auto Trans specialists put in Dexron III fluid (probably confusing it with the power steering). :disgusted

Off to check out the electrical then.

or lock the doors

AUTO ruined after one of the Auto Trans specialists put in Dexron III fluid

same thing happened to me

Ok, all 4 locks down and it's turning over no problems. I'll give it a few days trial run.

That just leaves the auto trans symptoms. I may need to take this to another thread, but simply put, the car drives and revs up then "clunks" in to gear. With the overdrive on, the engine revs much harder between those clunks and sometimes, when it reaches the overdrive gear, it can even rev out quite hard and stop moving altogether until the overdrive is switched off.

I've been told it needs a new transmission. Not sure about a new TCU as well, but i'm hoping that's not the case.

Ah well, i'll leave the trans for later. At the moment it still drives, just as long as the overdrive isn't on. Thanks for all the help, i'll probably be back down the wreckers this week to pick up a few extras here and there.

hate to say it mate, but if you're looking at a new tranny and a spray, its going to be cheaper to look around for a TR/TS in good nick for ~3 grand.

hate to say it mate, but if you're looking at a new tranny and a spray, its going to be cheaper to look around for a TR/TS in good nick for ~3 grand.

How does a new transmission and a respray equate to 3 grand? lol

I think fixing a current car is better than diving into a whole new world of problems. :P

respray, properly? 1500
reco trans, 900
labour $$$$$$$
just pointing out there are alernatives...

Decided to let the RAA take a look at it. Turns out the small boot light was stuck on, even with the boot closed, which was draining the battery overnight. lol Didn't expect it, but it went fine after he disconnected it.

It probably would be cheaper now to get a TR/TS in better condition, but considering this one has had the front struts done, new valve stem seals, new radiator, etc which would all need done later on another TR/TS, at the moment it just seems practical to get the existing car done. That and I was quoted a lot less for a replacement trans, but depends where you ask really.

Anyway, it's back out and driving again, needs some minor work like a new engine mount and some interior work, otherwise it's basically good to go. The trans is basically fine with OD off, it's not burning any fluid, so it can probably last a while. At the moment, cosmetic stuff isn't too important, so that can wait for later (it doesn't look too bad as-is anyway).