Just bought some new toys, a GPS with a 12 v in line, and a FM modulator for using an ipod. It takes over the aerial socket for a much better signal (hard wired FM signal) than any other ipod FM transmitters (with all suck!)

http://aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=AP746&cat_name=New%20Products&cat_no=&cat_sno=

I'm just trying to figure how to wire it in? Can I piggy back off the cigarette socket, as long as I put an inline fuse in ? Do I need a fusable link?
For the GPS, I'll need to patch in to the 12V line up near the speaker pod on the drivers side of the dashboard. Is there any good spots up there to get 12V?

I try to fuse everything, just for safety reasons. even if it is protected by a fuse earlier in the wiring i often still wack another one in, and up the original fuse.

better to be safe than sorry:)

Up the fuse size? Do you guys like fire? What do you think the fuse is doing? It is protecting the wire from melting when there is an overload or a fault. If the fuse is blowing because of overload, either reduce the load or install upgraded wiring and fuse.

Ignore reality at your own peril.

Up the fuse size? Do you guys like fire? What do you think the fuse is doing? It is protecting the wire from melting when there is an overload or a fault. If the fuse is blowing because of overload, either reduce the load or install upgraded wiring and fuse.

Ignore reality at your own peril.


if the fuse is running at 10 amps and you add to that a headunit, gauges and a neon or something, the pull of those things may exceed the 10 amp fuse, causing it to blow, especially if you use your ciggy lighter. and i'm not suggesting putting in 50 amp fuse but maybe up to 15.

Yeah, dont switch to a higher fuse unless you upgrade the wire first.

TJs should have spare power cables for handsfree kits. Definitely the easiest way if you have it.

Using a 15A fuse instead of a 10A is still risking overloading the circuit by 50%. Fuses don't blow instantly at their rated current, they follow a time-current curve.

I just checked the specs of a "typical" M205 fast blow fuse, it will start to fuse (melting before blowing) with a load at ~1.5 times it's rated current, at ~1.6 times it's rated current it should blow in ~1s, at twice its rated current it should blow in ~100ms.

In principle, this means that for a 10A fuse you may have a load of up to 15A continuously without the fuse blowing. So, now you replace it with a 15A fuse, the load might be up to 22.5A without the fuse blowing. The wire may only be rated for, say, 18A continous load. What will happen? The insulation will start to soften, maybe even melt, a short may form to another circuit or the car body, hopefully a fuse will blow somewhere. But if the fault doesn't blow a fuse there is a very real risk of a fire starting. These circuits are designed, undesigning them is not advisable.

makes sence... what he said!

Current draw will be minimal, piggy back into the ciggy lighter socket, no additional fuses required for this one.

Current draw will be minimal, piggy back into the ciggy lighter socket, no additional fuses required for this one.

Cheers everyone. Thanks tim - thats what I was hoping! Nice and easy