View Full Version : Changing Timing Chain 'In Car'
magnanamouse
03-10-2007, 01:27 PM
Any body attempted a timing chain change for a 2nd Gen 2.6 in the car? I've heard you can tilt the engine with a jack under the end of the engine and gain better access. Was told it only takes about 4 to 6 hours. I have done several with the engine out but am willing to give this a shot if it isn't too difficult.:cool:
Ol' Fart
03-10-2007, 02:04 PM
Yeah, just take off the pass side bash bar unda the car, separate the exhaust at the flange, remove the sump and oil pick up pipe (after draining), support the engine on a trolley jack with some soft wood.
Then remove the left, right and front eng mounts and you'll find everything comes off as normal by either lifting or lowering the engine (sometimes pushing it a bit to the drivers side).
Thats how I always do it, saves ages. :D
magnanamouse
03-10-2007, 05:50 PM
Thanks ol'fart,
Why the oil pickup?
Ol' Fart
03-10-2007, 07:37 PM
Thanks ol'fart,
Why the oil pickup?
Its not totally necessary.
I just find it gives me a nice flat area at the front of the motor to put the piece of softwood I use to pad the edge where the sump sits, away from the hard metal jack face.
Its only 2 bolts and the gasket doesnt usually break.
If it does I just make another one.
focus
03-10-2007, 10:08 PM
Yep, i have done it with the engine in the engine bay. I wouldnt attempt it if you dont have a fair bit of time and alot of patience! While i was at it i removed the balance shafts (well one, i couldnt get the other out), all new guides and replaced the oil pump. I bought it with a rattly motor knowing it was the timing chain but it was worse than i thought when i took it apart. Prick of a job but worth it in the end...
magnanamouse
08-10-2007, 11:14 AM
Pulled the timing chain as advised, worked ok! After only 30,000Km since rebuild I found large pieces of chain guide in the sump and the oil pump chain tensioner had siezed on the ratchet. Possibly being the cause of the destruction. The tiny spring supplied with the kit does not seem to sit properly in the ratchet.
Has any body had a similar experience?
If so which way does the spring supposed to sit in the bore behind the ratchet.
I assume that the lever must actuate freely with the tensioner not under pressure.:cool:
magnanamouse
08-10-2007, 01:02 PM
Did that last time Magna Buff!! When I installed the ratchet and locking pin last time, it worked fine. It still seemed that the spring did not want to sit properly in the bore and was protruding from the ratchet end just under the ratchet itself. Is there an aftermarket oil pump available? I Have been given a price down here of $400!
Ta Magnanamouse
magnanamouse
08-10-2007, 01:03 PM
sorry that is for a mitsi one
magna buff
08-10-2007, 07:51 PM
pm sent
magnanamouse
09-10-2007, 11:20 AM
Am now going without the ratchet in the oil pump. I will post the out come. It may be worth considering as these kit ones done move as freely as the original from mitsi.
:D :D :D
magnanamouse
10-10-2007, 09:32 AM
Have found the right hand chain guide in the kit has to be drilled out to accommodate the larger pivot bolt thread! it seems the kit is still geared for the sigma / TM-TP motors.:cool:
Ol' Fart
10-10-2007, 09:59 AM
Have found the right hand chain guide in the kit has to be drilled out to accommodate the larger pivot bolt thread! it seems the kit is still geared for the sigma / TM-TP motors.:cool:
Err sorry ..... I shoulda mentioned that :redface: :)
magnanamouse
10-10-2007, 10:17 AM
Ol' Fart!! my main concern is that the enlarged hole leaves enough of the lub to hang onto!! When I pulled her down the pivot bolt was loose and what was left of the chain guide was flopping around.
:cry: :cry:
Ol' Fart
10-10-2007, 12:17 PM
Ol' Fart!! my main concern is that the enlarged hole leaves enough of the lub to hang onto!! When I pulled her down the pivot bolt was loose and what was left of the chain guide was flopping around.
:cry: :cry:
I dunno why the kits come with the wrong hole size drilled, its only that one thats a prob and its easy enough to measure the bolt thread and drill the hole. There should be a washer that goes on the back of the guide as well.
You'll find the old bolt came loose because the guide broke in half and pivotted on the bolt not the other way around. :)
Pookys old engine was the same, 2 of the guides had broken in half. :shock:
magnanamouse
10-10-2007, 02:17 PM
Will be at it again after 5pm today. This time I'll put loctite on anything that is subject to vibration or chain contact.
Any further tips are welcome!!:) :)
Ol' Fart
10-10-2007, 04:58 PM
Will be at it again after 5pm today. This time I'll put loctite on anything that is subject to vibration or chain contact.
Any further tips are welcome!!:) :)
Good call.............I do. :D
Dont forget to put some silastic around the timing cover gasket where it mates with the water gallery. :D
magnanamouse
17-10-2007, 04:33 AM
Yep All Good,
Finished the 'In Car' Timing chain change (with sprockets) without too much trouble!!
She's running so smooth now and has more power than at the initial rebuild!! cleaned all the vacuum lines and made sure of no leaks!
Silastic on the mating surface in the timing cover to water gallery hole (ol' fart).
Made sure all warnings heeded and left out the ratchet.(magna buff)!!
Thanks to all who gave assistance!!:D :cool:
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