Lost the last few threads so starting up a new one with some common links. And hints and tips

Wiring
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

Max current for cable
Wire Gauge - Fuse Size
2/0 gauge - 430 amps
0 gauge - 345 amps
1 gauge - 265 amps
2 gauge - 215 amps
4 gauge - 135 amps
6 gauge - 80 amps
8 gauge - 55 amps
10 gauge - 30 amps
12 gauge - 20 amps
14 gauge - 15 amps
16 gauge - 7.5 amps

Feel free to post anything relevant in here.

Wiring
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

Note the the first harness in the above PDF is only accurate with the upper model 2nd gens, with the dual harness connections to the headunit. The Exec 2 speaker system harness is similar but not the same, only 1 harness, will post the different connections later if I check mine.

how to remove the 3rd gen console thanks to Bain
http://members.optusnet.com.au/miltonf/car/mitsu/console/stereoremoval.htm

Refering to the 1998 - 1999 Manga's
It shows that RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) wire is BLACK w/ BLACK STRIPE i think there must be a typo cause i was installing a new HU in my car the other day and it was different coloured wire i think it was thin Black with green or yellow not sure but it wasnt all black

yeah some models are variants of the above diagrams, just sorta go with what you know, and see whats left ;)

Well written info on TL stereo install, including accurate wiring guide (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32761)
(also worked on my KJ)

found the post for people who are looking for ways to get through the firewall in 3rd gens
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=480636#post480636

Refering to the 1998 - 1999 Manga's
It shows that RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) wire is BLACK w/ BLACK STRIPE i think there must be a typo cause i was installing a new HU in my car the other day and it was different coloured wire i think it was thin Black with green or yellow not sure but it wasnt all black
Your looking at the wrong one, the top one says upto 98-99 but its the 2nd gen loom, although the Front Right Negative on the 2nd gen is red with a white stripe in my TR...soo...god knows.

Whenever running power to an amplifier ALWAYS RUN THE POWER AND SPEAKER CABLES INCLUDING RCA'S ON THE OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE CAR. This will help stop alternator whine or 'engine noise' and interference.

If you purchase a decent subwoofer, factor in the cost of a dynamat boot pack, this will not only stop your boot sounding like mine (like UFO is trying to take off inside) but will also help with the efficency of the speaker, aka - louder cleaner bass without stressing the speaker (as much).

:cool:

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

In the console removal diagram, what does that clip that you undo do? i know it's hooked up to that up and down slider that goes to blue/white. But what the hell does it do? i've never noticed nor figured out. Oh and mine broke a long time ago lol.

I can't access that pdf wiring file. Keeps asking for a username and password.

yea just installed a new HU and when i was wiring the new hu i went by the guide below and i noticed that all the previous wiring was the opisite to the guide however i stuck tru to the guide and installed it all and then started the car then when i finsih the install i i went into the balance and wat not and it was all opisite sides so morale of the story if ur installin in a TE us opisite to the guide below



http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

my guess is that the diagram may be showed from an opposite side. i noticed that when i was wiring up dads car, and had to turn the plug around a couple of times to get it to match.

Just about all of the electrical connectors have a lock tab of sorts.
The front of the p/windows, underneath the A/C controls, and to the side of the Hazards lights.
The power windows are the first, there is a tab that needs to be depreesed so you can remove the wiring plug. Take a look how they work, the rest are very similar.

Easy Peasy, Ease (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0224.jpg) out the gear surround ( includes P/W controls and Cup holders), Prying (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0225.jpg) upwards all around and it comes off, the very front is the only bit that doesnt unclip. that slots in at the front, Disconnect (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0226.jpg) the Power window connection plug,
Apply hand brake, Chock if not on level ground, Place car in neutral and pull surround sliding to the rear of the car.
This is the hardest bit, removing the compartment above where the cup holders were. With the lid open place palms facing upwards Gripping (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0227.jpg) as well as you can manage (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0228.jpg) with both hands ( dont grab the door) and pull to rear of the car. This exposes (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0229.jpg) two screws to remove,(Edit: they don't need to be removed) and the last panel prys (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0231.jpg) off. Disconnect (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0232.jpg) aircon controls, hazard lights and air temp sensor. And the bracket holding in the stereo is right before you, take (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0232-1.jpg) care with the top screws, they require a metal clip to secure themselves and are likely to jump off when reattaching. Tape them in place.....

Just a small note for the ppl thinking about upgrading speakers in TL/W series, whatever depth rules apply for the TE-TJ, forget them with TL on. The Speakers in the last shape are lower down in door, a lot of inside door card speaker plasics trim was removed and trimmed a lot further, and a 16mm baffle with 3mm ring just to fit in a 70mm mounting depth speaker.

How to make MDF Speaker baffles
(http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=968203&postcount=2)By Ers

Please note, speaker baffles are NOT needed for 6.5" speakers. The stock Mitsubishi speakers, apart from being craptastic, are 6.5". You should be able to use the stock mounting points for aftermarket 6.5" speakers.

Please note, speaker baffles are NOT needed for 6.5" speakers. The stock Mitsubishi speakers, apart from being craptastic, are 6.5". You should be able to use the stock mounting points for aftermarket 6.5" speakers.
Well it really depends on the speaker your about to install
You will need to check the depth of the speaker to make sure it clears the glass, making a MDF speaker baffle isnt hard to do and from what I have heard make a big difference over the stock plastic ones

Yep the factory speakers are 6inch - 6.5inch will fit but new holes need to be drilled.

Making an MDF baffle even without Sound deadening will make a huge difference to any speakers you put and doesn't take long to do...

For making a custom sub box: www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

Would someone be able to repost the third gen centre console removal. The old link is no longer valid.

Do you still have the removal of the console details. the optus link is no longer available.

DJ

Oh bugger, I think I'll need this too!

Lost the last few threads so starting up a new one with some common links. And hints and tips

Wiring
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

[
Feel free to post anything relevant in here.


on the single plug harness in a tf wire:H that states do not use is green with white stripe. is that for power ant?

From memory, green/white-stripe wire is: Dash Illumination/Dimmer.

so no use on xplod hd then

i also need the console removal diagram to be reposted.

i also need the console removal diagram to be reposted.
Looks as if the person hosting that page has removed it, so unless someone saved it, I doubt it can be reposted.

Which part are you stuck on?

i also need the console removal diagram to be reposted.

Do the pics in my members ride thread help at all? --> http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1197562

Dont know how to post a link....this is how I did it and it was a PIA
Radio Fit

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks to all replies...it appears there are still people trying to do this..this is how I tackled it on my 96 TE Altera.
1 handbrake on
2 auto in neutral
3 lift lid on centre console arm rest (top part bits and pieces storage)
4 lift rear of console upwards from the rear...it will come out as a complete unit with no wires etc connected underneath
5 slide cigarette compartment open
6 put hand in the opening under the top lip and pull firmly straight back towards the gear stick
7 disconnect the power connector on the back of this and put the cigarette section aside
8 pull on the bottom left corner of the main fascia section,,,,firmly towards the gearstick...this is held in place by a number of clips on either side and might take some budging.
There is no need to to remove any buttons or dials on the aircon unit as the fascis lifts away and leaves them there.
9 disconnect the flasher plug and put the fascia aside
10 the radio and aircon controls are held in place by 4 screws,one in each corner.
On the bottom you will see 4 screws...leave the 2 in the centre....just remove the one in each corner as mentioned.
11 I notice on other descriptions re disconnecting a rod from the air con centre vents to make room to remove the top screws....I found this wasnt required as the screw driver reached them ok
12 the assembly can be pulled towards you and enables room to get at the screws hoding the radio (in my case they were in so hard had to drill them out!!)
13 I cut all the wires and rejoined as per the wiring diagram...ensuring the positive was taped and insulated and last to be disc and reconnected.(didnt disc the battery)
14 this radio has a 3 inch tft video screen built in,earthed to the chasis so can be on whilst mobile (illegal yes)
15 slide radio back in...when doing this there are alignment bolts both sides...so make sure the frame slides onto them otherwise you will have no hope of getting the fascia to line up....put back the 4 screws
16 grab fascia and reconnect the flasher unit (if you forget to do this your turn indicators will not work)
17 with the fascia almost in place,reach in either side and using fingers or a flat screw driver,click the aircon unit into the fascia...this holds it in place above the radio.
18 give the fascia a few thumps around the sides and it will click back into place....ensure when doing this the top of the fascia fits in under the vents at the top.
19 grab the cigarette lighter section reconnect the power plug,and push firmly in and it will connect into place holding everything firmly in place.
20 last bit!grab the centre console and with car in neutral and lid up on the centre arm rest....place the front in under the cigarette lighter compartment...give it a couple of thumps all round and it will drop into place
OK thats it....if this gets deleted I will understand but I never want to do it again!!!

SH00T's post on page 2 (TL/TW console removal) has pictures included in the links. I think its the most comprehensive guide on this forum for tl/tw. The optusnet website I've been before but from memory it lacked some detail.

here is a video i made on how to remove the center console.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaWhsQYsnrs

From memory, green/white-stripe wire is: Dash Illumination/Dimmer.
Anyone possibly confirm this for me? Really appreciated :)

Anyone possibly confirm this for me? Really appreciated :)

Are you reinstalling the stock deck?
Shouldnt be connecting any illumination wires in magnas, will lose you dash dial adjustment

Its in the GTV, the factory deck dims when you turn on the lights, the new H/U im installing does it too. I wouldnt have thought it would cause an issue, have you experienced different? Anyone?
Thanks for the heads up if it does muck it up.

If it is gonna stuff it up I wont do it, the backlit cluster is pretty bright on full illum. And the deck has blackout.
Luke

Yeah mine wouldnt work when I took it to someone to install my deck cause the illumination wire was connected
When I installed my new unit I didnt connect that wire and it works again
I suppose you could always try it and just cut the wire afterwards, but I wouldnt connect it
Might be diffferent in Verada's tho

Fingers crossed. Thanks mate, I know my Clarion DXZ835MP and Alpine high end deck(didnt have inbult amp etc, cant remember the model). Fitted to my TF Advance both dimmed. They were done by Bendigo Car Audio and Security though.
As you said, ill try it. If it doesnt work, ill use the blackout function.

Edit - Except I still dont know which is the dimming wire for the stock system.......
Edit2 - Think the alpine was a 7969r

Thanks

I have put headunits in TE, TJ, and KJ Magna / Verada and they all had a dimming wire.

Don't you have ( or can you borrow ) a simple 12V testing light? This will put it to rest. :D

Yeah got one, and a voltimeter, always better to find out from tried and tested sources though ;)
Any idea on the colour of the dimming wire?

I definitely recommend the testing with a multimeter method.

I trawled through these forums and all the downloads (pictures, PDFs) I could find on Magna stereo wiring and now my head unit's dimmer doesn't work with the lights.
Luckily it's got a light sensor and automatic mode, so I just leave it to work it out on it's own.

The best thing is I can drive with my lights on in daytime and still see the video screen, although I can't see the climate control screen because it dims out.

Oggy.

to remove the front speakers in a tj, do i need to take off the door trim, or can the covers just be popped off?

to remove the front speakers in a tj, do i need to take off the door trim, or can the covers just be popped off?

Youll need the trim off...

Trim has to come off, and if your adding anything semi decent. I highly recommend remaking the plastic speaker plates in MDF ;) Plastic ones flex too much.

Also - From experience, in any newer car add a pair of Dynamat DynaXorb (http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_dynaxorb.html)(Acoustic Tiles)or the cheaper Jaycar version are just as good HERE (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX3652&keywords=acoustic+tiles&form=KEYWORD)(but have tripled in price since becoming popular).

Hey guys, is there a link for installing a sub and amp for a 3rd gen?

cheers

There's heaps of details about - just do a search.
I documented my amp installation somewhat in my members ride thread, feel free to use it for some reference.
But honestly, other than power cable routing and earth points - there isn't much to mounting sub & amp.
And as there isn't just one place to put a sub and amp, there's no single answer.
- these could be on custom enclosures in in the corners of the boot, sunk into a false floor or even screwed into the back of the back seat.

The fun is in doing it, so read up tonight and get building, threading, soldering, etc tomorrow :)

Found this to be great help for removal & install of my Alpine headunit..

http://decibelcar.com/index.php/menuinstall/202.html

Also this for wiring..

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32761&page=1

Took me ages to search for this as the number 3 is too short for the search function.

The Big 3 or The Big Three Electrical System upgrade for Car audio.

The best way ensure you get a good earth from your amp to the real earth of your car while running large amps, the alternator casing. As it is grounded to the motor, the Chassis to Motor earth cable is ( so I've just found out) more important than a battery negative to chassis cable, thats the real earth when the (running) alternator is running your audio system.
But they should, Ideally, all be done at the same time.

So thats the Alt Positive to battery Pos.
Pics Here (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72904&highlight=Big+alternator+cap) Thanks MagTech (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/member.php?u=6551)

Battery Negative to Chassis and Battery Negative to Motor.
Pics Here (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74865&highlight=Big+alternator+cap) Thanks MagTech (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/member.php?u=6551)

You could also upgrade the Chassis to Motor earth, but as it is done in this case, through the Chassis/Neg Term/Motor it would seem un-necessary, but you could if you wanted.
This could also be done, by a Negative to Chassis, and a Chassis to Motor. What-ever suits really

There is also a heap of info on net

and the tube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc)





Unashamedly pinched From the12volt.com posted by Dyohn (http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1)


Since this question comes up again and again here, I thought this might be a useful post. Performing a "Big 3" upgrade on your vehicle is one way to improve the electrical system performance and its ability to supply power to your audio system. This upgrade will help any vehicle using an after-market amplified stereo system, and most certainly should be performed on any vehicle after a high-output alternator is installed.

Please be sure you read and understand this entire instruction before you begin.

Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.

Parts and Tools:

As a minimum, you will need to purchase the following:

• Sufficient length of high-strand count high capacity power cable.
- The length required differs for every vehicle. You can measure the length of the existing cables and buy the same length, or contact your dealer or a mechanic and ask, or sometimes you can look it up in a manufacturer's wiring book, or guess. If you guess, make sure you over-estimate and buy too much.
- High strand count cable is more flexible and more reliable than low-strand count cable. Never use solid-core wire in a moving vehicle as it will eventually break.
- The gauge of wire you need depends on the total current draw of your audio system, and/or the current generating capacity of your alternator. Never use smaller cable that you used to power your amps; never use smaller cable than what already exists in your vehicle; never use smaller cable than the generating capacity of your alternator; never use smaller than 4 AWG (it's just not worth the time to use anything smaller); if in doubt, always use higher gauge cable than you think you need. If you look at the Power and Ground charts and your amplifier current draw corresponds to 2 AWG cable, use no smaller than 2 AWG cable, and use 1/0 if you can.

• 6 ring terminals or lugs of the appropriate size for the cable chosen. Two of these need to be large enough to fit over your battery posts, or appropriately sized to bolt onto your existing battery terminals.
• 1/2" or 5/8" shrink tubing (or some other form of permanent electrical insulation. Tape is NOT recommended.)
• Cable ties (plastic zip ties.)

• Wire cutters large enough to handle the cable you choose.
• Crimpers large enough to handle the connectors you choose.
• Soldering iron or gun.
• Solder.
• Scotch brite and/or a small wire brush.
• Heat gun.
• Safety razor blade (or other tool for stripping cable).
• Heat gun (if using shrink tubing).
• Wrenches for removing bolts in your vehicle.

Procedure:

1. Make sure your engine is completely cool before beginning. Identify the three cables being replaced. Make sure you can reach both ends of all cables. NOTE: the engine block to chassis cable may be between the engine and the transmission, or connected to the transmission and the fire wall, and is often an un-insulated flat braid cable.

2. Determine the lengths of cable needed to reach between the three locations being upgraded. Be sure you measure with a flexible tape (a tape measure used for sewing works great) and record the total length along the path you intend to install the cable. You do not want your cables to be pulled tight between any two locations as things move and vibrate as you drive. Be sure to include at least 1 inch extra for slack. NOTE: there is no reason to copy the existing wiring layout in your vehicle unless you want to. Also, be sure that the path you choose does not follow or lay across anything that gets hot, like exhaust parts, or anything that must move, like throttle linkage.

3. Cut your new cable to the three proper lengths. NOTE: some people like to use red cable for positive and black cable for negative. Doing this is completely up to you and is nice, but not necessary. You can use cable with any color insulation you like.

4. Strip each end of all cables to the proper length for the terminal lugs being used. NOTE: after full insertion into the lug, a small "band" of bare wire is usually seen between the back of the lug and the beginning of the cable insulation.

5. Begin at any one end and insert the stripped cable into the lug. Make sure it is fully inserted. Crimp the connector to hold the wire in place. NOTE: crimping large cable can be difficult. The intention here is not to make the crimp the sole means of holding the wire, but only to make sure the lug does not slip around during the soldering phase. I do NOT recommend using hammers or pliers or vices to crimp the connector as over-crimping can break the strands of the cable, reducing the current carrying capacity. Do not over-crimp.

6. You may need to use a vise or some other set of "helping hands" to hold the cable while you solder it. Heat your soldering iron and place it on the connector (on the lug side) barrel. Hold a piece of solder against the tip of the iron and melt the solder into the strands of the cable. Use sufficient solder to fill the connector and completely cover all strands of the cable. NOTE: the lug will get hot and will burn you if you try to hold it. Also, if the insulation on the cable starts to melt, you are over-heating the cable and not paying attention to melting the solder into the cable. You do not need to try and melt the cable!

7. Repeat the above steps on each end of all three cables.

8. After the cables have completely cooled, cut a piece of shrink tubing long enough to cover the soldered barrel end of the lugs and reach about 1/2" onto the insulation of each cable end. Slide this over each lug and use a heat gun to recover the tubing in place.

9. Disconnect your battery, starting with the negative cable first then the positive cable. Discharge any caps you may have in the system.

10. Begin adding your new cables along side the existing ones. I usually begin with the alternator positive cable. Locate the output stud on your alternator and remove the nut. Slip the new cable onto the lug and replace the nut. There is no need to disturb the existing cabling. Route the new cable to the battery and position it to connect to the positive battery post (or connect it to the positive terminal on the OEM wiring) but do not connect the battery yet.

11. Secure the new cable in place by using cable ties every 6 to 8 inches. Secure the cable to cool non-moving parts!

12. Locate where the negative battery cable attaches to the vehicle chassis. Remove this bolt and the OEM battery cable, and clean the mounting area of the chassis using scotch brite and/or a wire brush. Make sure there is no dirt, rust, paint, undercoating, etc in this location. You want bright shiny metal. Connect both your new ground and the OEM ground back to the chassis. NOTE: Some people like to create a new ground location by drilling into the chassis and using a bolt with star lock washers for the new ground cable. Route this new cable back to the battery and position it to be attached, or connect it to the negative terminal. Do not reconnect the battery yet.

13. Secure the negative cable using cable ties every 6-8 inches. Again, don't tie it to anything that moves or that gets hot!

14. Disconnect the engine ground strap at both ends. Using the wire brush or scotch brite, clean both the engine block and the chassis as you did for the first ground strap.

15. Line up the lugs on both the OEM ground strap and your new ground cable, and use cable ties to secure them to each other. This is much easier to accomplish in your lap or on the floor than it is while lying under your car or hanging upside down in the engine compartment. Reinstall both cables at the same time using the factory bolts.

16. Double check to make sure all bolts are tight. Be careful not to over-tighten them as you don't want to strip anything! Also, on some factory alternators it is WAY too easy to twist off the positive output lug. If you break it off, well hell, you really wanted a high-output alternator anyway, right? It is also a good idea at this point to measure resistance of the new cables. Take an ohm reading between the battery end of the new ground cable and the engine block. It should read less than one ohm. Also check between the alternator bolt and the disconnected positive battery terminal, which should also be less than one ohm. If you read too high resistance, double check all connections and make sure you do not have something c**ked sideways or hanging loose.

NOTE: Realize that the "absolute ground" of the electrical system is not the battery negative terminal or the vehicle chassis, but is the case of the alternator itself. This is why perhaps the most important cable among the Big 3 is the engine ground strap, as this is what connects the alternator ground to the vehicle's chassis. Be certain the resistance between the alternator case (the engine block assuming the alternator is properly bolted to the engine) and the battery negative is minimized. (Thanks to the12volt for pointing this out!)

17. When you are sure you are done and anything in your system that you may have disconnected are re-connected, clean your battery posts and reconnect the positive battery terminal first, then the negative one.

18. Start your vehicle. Hopefully the engine starts. :) Examine the engine compartment and make sure none of your cables are getting hot or are vibrating or shaking around. If they are vibrating too much you may need to relocate them or use more cable ties. If you see smoke, immediately shut off the car and disconnect the battery. Seek help. :)

19. Assuming all looks good, take a voltage reading at your amplifier and ensure you read 13.8 (or higher) volts. This indicates a properly operating charging system.

20. Now'd be a good time to turn it on and make sure it sounds good! Then of course log onto the12volt.com and post that you have upgraded your Big 3!

Marty
No credit for me, I'm just the collator.

If you want to discuss this, use the two AMC links above, acknowledgement should go to the member who took the time post up the valuable pics.
Yeah! Its a thread mine, but a worthy one, I'm sure the admin. team won't mind.

Just to add, after doing a small upgrade, The alternator to Batt + power cable on my TW was roughly 8Ga, I've upgraded this by adding another 8ga lead.

Firewall to Upper Inlet manifold support Bracket in 4Ga (above steering coloumn), and 4ga Batt Neg to Firewall.

Subwoofer/s Wiring to Amplifier (http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?g=500&tp=13) for just about every Imaginable wiring situation.

Also, Good installation tips and Buying advice (http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Learn/Article/Menu.aspx?c=3&tp=1) for just about anyone who has a question.
Inc speaker selection, amp positioning, what the terminology is all about, Wiring, Head deck choice, a great place to brush up.

Whenever running power to an amplifier ALWAYS RUN THE POWER AND SPEAKER CABLES INCLUDING RCA'S ON THE OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE CAR. This will help stop alternator whine or 'engine noise' and interference.

If you purchase a decent subwoofer, factor in the cost of a dynamat boot pack, this will not only stop your boot sounding like mine (like UFO is trying to take off inside) but will also help with the efficency of the speaker, aka - louder cleaner bass without stressing the speaker (as much).

:cool:

all you need is to run them on either side of the centre console-hump in rear seat footwell-either side of rear seat. that separation of 6 inches with earthed metal between them completely nulls the engine sound for me.

Sorry im a new member. Probably in the wrong spot to ask this?? I am trying to remove the center consoal to put in a new audio in a 1990 TP wagon. I have removed all the necessary panels etc but for one. The consol holding the sterio has a screw or something in the back at the top just to the right of the asytray and to the left of the ciglighter that will not allow for the final removal. I dont want to break anything, but pulling does not work. Looked it up in the factory manual but not shown. Is there a screw in there and how on earth do you get to it???

On a TF Magna (97), I'm having an absolute shitfight with this thing. Putting in a Sony head unit, wired according to the colours on the pre-1998 guide (i only have the plug from the post-98, but the colours are different???). Turn car over, nothing. No power to headunit or anything. Any ideas guys? I've been fighting with this for two hours! :(

On a TF Magna (97), I'm having an absolute shitfight with this thing. Putting in a Sony head unit, wired according to the colours on the pre-1998 guide (i only have the plug from the post-98, but the colours are different???). Turn car over, nothing. No power to headunit or anything. Any ideas guys? I've been fighting with this for two hours! :(

Did you ground the black wire coming from your new deck to something behind the headunit (like Metal & Earth), bcos the standard magna one is Earthed through the Bracket that fix's it to the car?
Also have you checked the fuse in the Drivers Footwell, if your Interior light isn't working its the fuse.

Anybody with any tip(s) on removing the back speakers from the parcel shelf (3rd gen)? I'm having a massive struggle getting to the screws at the back because the rear window is so close!!

Ive had the same problem too

Youve gotta remove the seats,
remove the parcel shelf,
go to repco/autobarn and buy an "Mini L shape screw driver/ socket wrench thingy ma jig"
(its the shape of a socket wrench except its tiny.) tell them what you need, they know what you mean.

If you unscrew the screw from the top, the nut at the bottom might move with it too, so you may need an extra hand underneath with some pliers to hold it the screw so it dosent move.

Cheers mate! Hah, found a mini screwdriver set that fits into a socket (but can't quite get the actual shifter onto the socket) BUT I should be able to manage it with this. LOL this is so frustrating hahahaha.

And there's no nuts underneath so that's not a problem :D

My factory speakers were held in with 8mm socket head screws (they have the cross tip as well as the socket hexagon on the outside)

Mike

Hmm, that's odd, because my screws had round heads... unless they changed it at some stage to make removal easier...

Got it all now though, quite easy in the end after so much frustration!!

phillips bit driver (little hexagonal bar with the (+) screwdriver tip) and a ring spanner that fits the hex part.

phillips bit driver (little hexagonal bar with the (+) screwdriver tip) and a ring spanner that fits the hex part.

That's basically what I did, but I didn't have a small enough ring spanner so my vice grips did the job ;)

Just about every Car audio Size Wiring question answered.

http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm


Handy for Setting Amps with a Multimeter
http://www.bcae1.com/ohmslaw.htm


MP3 Files for Testing, Right click and "Save As"
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm

.wav files
http://www.stompaudio.com/test-tones-c-6793.html

Are you reinstalling the stock deck?
Shouldnt be connecting any illumination wires in magnas, will lose you dash dial adjustment

OK that might explain some thing, we recently brought an 02 TJ limited edition and the cluster dimming did not work, it had a basic pioneer CD player with a 5 CD stacker in the boot a typical dodgy cut and hack job in the dash. I put in our newer pioneer deck with usb and iphone controls and i wired the green/white wire to the deck so it dims when you turn on the head lights but the cluster dimming still did not work only the cigarette lighter lights will dim from the dash dial adjustment control.

There is another dim wire Black/Yellow --> Dimmer (Rheostat) should i of used that one instead ? i did test the stereo install with both the black/yellow and green/white wires separate but i could not get the cluster to dim only the cigarette lighter lights will dim from the dash dial adjustment control, i remember having the same problem with out 01 TJ magna about 6 years ago when stathfield installed a pioneer head deck, they even took parts like dimmer control out of there bosses company car trying to get the dimmers to work with no joy.

Any ideas as i like the H/U to dim auto or by the dimmer control ? Also the electric areal was not working when we got the car and i double checked the wiring and wired it up but it does not work i cant even get the motor to buzz and it pulls out and retracts easy by hand so i gather its stuffed, i need to work out how to test it.

Hey everyone :woot:

I have a 98 TH magna v6 3ltr

Just a few quick questions

1. Will 66.3mm speakers with in my door ? (Got some bargain kenwoods from ryda )
2. What wiring harness would I need ? 1 plug or 2 plug (can't seem to find an answer)
3. Talking about illumination if I don't connect any wires the display will stay on correct ? (not like it won't light up at all ? )

Please reply

I've been asking everywhere, only place I find any help is custom forums (talk about MDF cut outs. Which I'd like to avoid)

Thankyou you kindly

Brian

Aerpro app0111, you can solder the head unit plug to this, or buy the plug for your unit.

I had no trouble with the illumination feature, on my pioneer, out my previous jvc, with my TW.....could be the rada cluster i have.
Of its not connected, you will a bright display @ night...

Just about all of the electrical connectors have a lock tab of sorts.
The front of the p/windows, underneath the A/C controls, and to the side of the Hazards lights.
The power windows are the first, there is a tab that needs to be depreesed so you can remove the wiring plug. Take a look how they work, the rest are very similar.

Easy Peasy, Ease (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0224.jpg) out the gear surround ( includes P/W controls and Cup holders), Prying (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0225.jpg) upwards all around and it comes off, the very front is the only bit that doesnt unclip. that slots in at the front, Disconnect (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0226.jpg) the Power window connection plug,
Apply hand brake, Chock if not on level ground, Place car in neutral and pull surround sliding to the rear of the car.
This is the hardest bit, removing the compartment above where the cup holders were. With the lid open place palms facing upwards Gripping (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0227.jpg) as well as you can manage (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0228.jpg) with both hands ( dont grab the door) and pull to rear of the car. This exposes (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0229.jpg) two screws to remove,(Edit: they don't need to be removed) and the last panel prys (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0231.jpg) off. Disconnect (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0232.jpg) aircon controls, hazard lights and air temp sensor. And the bracket holding in the stereo is right before you, take (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0232-1.jpg) care with the top screws, they require a metal clip to secure themselves and are likely to jump off when reattaching. Tape them in place.....

Just a small note for the ppl thinking about upgrading speakers in TL/W series, whatever depth rules apply for the TE-TJ, forget them with TL on. The Speakers in the last shape are lower down in door, a lot of inside door card speaker plasics trim was removed and trimmed a lot further, and a 16mm baffle with 3mm ring just to fit in a 70mm mounting depth speaker.

5 years on...you're still helping people. Good on you Shoot.

A step by step guide for isolating noises from your audio install - Might come in handy
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/548878-noise-troubleshooting-guide-eliminate-your-alternator-whine.html

Hey Guys,

I have a 2003 TL Magna ES. I was able to remove the console and connect my amp. I disconn Batt -ve terminal while I was doing that. Now my car electrical system is playing up. First, it was my power windows switch in center console. Then, after a while they r working fine, except one for right side rear window. Now, my car engine just shuts down as I turn on the aircon. Can somebody please help me?????

Hwy i tried to check the link you posted but it didn't work....

[url]http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf[/url
The radio/CD on our TJ has two separate plugs - but the RadioDoctor thingy shows only one on models newer than 99?

Steve

Quick Question, I have a normal Pioneer head unit in my TJ VR-X, I want to get a Double Din, which size do I need. I am guessing a 7 inch model? Can someone clarify?

Cheers,

Paul

As long as it is a double din size, it is up to you. Either will fit, it's just the actual screen size that is different, and the bezel around the outsides thickness.

Awesome, thanks heaps.

Finally picked up my new head unit today, so look for instal pics in my ride thread soon. But this one comes with a Mic for phone calls etc. Do you mount the mic on the steering wheel like it suggests or prefer say the top of the A pillar kinda head height ish? Thats the most logical place I can think of.

I personally put mine just to the side or above rear view mirror. That way it works for anyone in the car, not just me.

I've seen top of the A-Pillar, and up next to the rear view mirror, I'm more of a fan of the up near the rear view as I've been told that it doesn't give as much wind noise to the receivers end when I have the windows down a bit

Finally picked up my new head unit today, so look for instal pics in my ride thread soon. But this one comes with a Mic for phone calls etc. Do you mount the mic on the steering wheel like it suggests or prefer say the top of the A pillar kinda head height ish? Thats the most logical place I can think of.

I would go pillar dude, however the steering shroud allows for the easiest communication but unless the mic is flush mount use the pillar.

I hope they give enough cable to run it to the centre (rear view mirror) as thats a good spot. I dont want to have to drop the roof lining though, hopefully it can just squeeze under. If not I'll go pillar What about at hte base of the pillar? Maybe less wind noise there too. Not fussed, just garnering opinion. Thanks for the replies thus far.

Hi guys,
New here to your club. Do have a quetion though. The stock sound system in my 380 GT sounds pretty good.....although I miss my subs . (Just bought the car yesterday so not even 24hrs without them lol. Is there any cables to hook the subs up or is it a full install again? Churs.

Hi guys, i have a tf wagon and am looking to fit 6x9's in the tailgate, was wondering if any members had done tailgate installs and what they had done, my speakers magnets touch the metal skin of the tailgate so i was wondering what others may have done, MDF, spacer ovals e.t.c?

Hi guys, i have a tf wagon and am looking to fit 6x9's in the tailgate, was wondering if any members had done tailgate installs and what they had done, my speakers magnets touch the metal skin of the tailgate so i was wondering what others may have done, MDF, spacer ovals e.t.c?

speaking with hindsight your speakers are too deep.. but how much extra height do you need anyways? 3-5mm?

if more than 5mm best get spacer ovals (but you'll cause bumps in the grillecloth?)

magnet in their basket do not move and can be mounted fixed, its ok if they sit against the metal skin but put some insulation so it doesn't rattle. Be careful you don't dent the panel when snugging up the screws. ;) 3-5mm can be spaced with washers or misc scrap bits; then just seal the airgap between basket & panel with whatever you've got handy - sponge tape, neoprene weatherproofing strips.

Its the tailgate, can't really do much more or less to improve nor hurt the sound :P

thanks for the response mate, i decided to use the carpeted ovals and dynomat, should be good, thanks again

Just about all of the electrical connectors have a lock tab of sorts.
The front of the p/windows, underneath the A/C controls, and to the side of the Hazards lights.
The power windows are the first, there is a tab that needs to be depreesed so you can remove the wiring plug. Take a look how they work, the rest are very similar.

Easy Peasy, Ease (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0224.jpg) out the gear surround ( includes P/W controls and Cup holders), Prying (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0225.jpg) upwards all around and it comes off, the very front is the only bit that doesnt unclip. that slots in at the front, Disconnect (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0226.jpg) the Power window connection plug,
Apply hand brake, Chock if not on level ground, Place car in neutral and pull surround sliding to the rear of the car.
This is the hardest bit, removing the compartment above where the cup holders were. With the lid open place palms facing upwards Gripping (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0227.jpg) as well as you can manage (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0228.jpg) with both hands ( dont grab the door) and pull to rear of the car. This exposes (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0229.jpg) two screws to remove,(Edit: they don't need to be removed) and the last panel prys (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0231.jpg) off. Disconnect (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0232.jpg) aircon controls, hazard lights and air temp sensor. And the bracket holding in the stereo is right before you, take (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0232-1.jpg) care with the top screws, they require a metal clip to secure themselves and are likely to jump off when reattaching. Tape them in place.....

Just a small note for the ppl thinking about upgrading speakers in TL/W series, whatever depth rules apply for the TE-TJ, forget them with TL on. The Speakers in the last shape are lower down in door, a lot of inside door card speaker plasics trim was removed and trimmed a lot further, and a 16mm baffle with 3mm ring just to fit in a 70mm mounting depth speaker.

I know this is an old thread, but I am so pleased I thought to write to cyber space anyway and say thanks. This post got me into my console perfectly - no broken clips or usual other issues. Wiring harness info on a couple other posts was also great. My first use of forums like this - I should have jumped in years ago. Thanks shoot and also wagonman.

Hi guys,
I have a 2000 Magna TJ Executive. Unfortunately the stock audio HU cant play mp3 CDs. Can anyone suggest a easy to install mp3 CD player? I dont need any fancy player. Even a second would do. Its just needs to play mp3 CDs and preferably have an aux input.

I think a stock HU from a later models should be an easy install. Please suggest.