Just a Quick one.......

Would a set of standard R33 GTR RB26 Turbos be too big or not big enough for a 3.5 ltr magna...

Thanks Craig....

If they're T25's or T28's they'll be a good match.

I've got T28's on mine and it is a little bit laggy. T25's should give you peak boost very very low in the rev range (probably about 2500 rpm) and will be good for more than enough HP than you want in a FWD anyway.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120165242022&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:PIC&ih=002



Any good

No they would be perfect......If anything a little small, but will spool really quick, may restrict high in the rpm.

The way i see it is, the R33 has a 2.6 that revved to about 7500rpm... The 3.5 revs to 6500rpm so the cubic capacity (flow capability of each turbo) should equal out at max rpm between both motors. at the same boost levels.

Do you want som manifolds made up? :D

Anybody correct me if i'm wrong...

boost is good

They look pretty good to me, I'm guessing they're not GT28's because mine had bigger actuators than those ones. The actuators that came with my turbos were too big to fit in both cases, so I had to replace them with smaller 7psi actuators at a cost of about $120 ea.

Ive been sitting on these for 10 days now if you guys think they are good them i will go for them....

rather be boosted than not

with a low compressor AR like that they'll spin up quick but will suffer (run out of breath) up at higher revs

FYI - the in my case, the cost of the turbos only accounted for about 1/5th of the total install cost.

Not trying to put you off, just want to make sure you know what you're in for.

easy another $1000+for manifolds and exhaust... then the intercooler piping $500+and oil/water feed lines to and from turbo $300+, Aftermarket ECU $800+ tuning....ect ect ect

As you may or may not know i can fab most of the gear myself and i have got to start some where.....???????

Another handy andy like myself.... Gunna have to post photos of the build! I'm waitin already....:D

As you may or may not know i can fab most of the gear myself and i have got to start some where.....???????

In that case...... DO IT!!!!

And where were you when I was building my car??

you never asked and i was busy working now that im not..........

What you do for a crust? Altera?

Were you the winning bidder???

I AM NOW BOOSTED ................................well soon as i build it all..............

and i was a sheet metal fabricator/Radiator-Aircon Tech/Welder.......

Bud where do you live... can i lend a welder? :D

I want to see this up and going as soon as possible. Depending on difficulty i would like to do my beast, but a nice well matched single would be the order i think...:badgrin:

EDIT;Damn dude, i just checked ur info and saw QLD... sorta puts that out eh?

Yes i was the one and only bidder so i got them for $500 Hopefully can pick them up tomorrow....



IT BEGINS..................................:nuts:

If you're willing to fab for us, I'm pretty sure there are a number of guys on here (myself sorta included) who need/want aftermarket piping. As a matter of fact, there's probably a years worth of beer kicking around the forums you could get :D .

i take it ur located south QLD and i also noticed ur in a te with a 3l engine and auto transmission so is there rather big over haul on the way for ur TE?

i take it ur located south QLD and i also noticed ur in a te with a 3l engine and auto transmission so is there rather big over haul on the way for ur TE?

In this thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=772003&postcount=1) he mentions that he is undergoing a 3.5L conversion.

Out of curiosity Craig, with the 3.5L conversion, and now the hair dryers, is a manual conversion on the cards???

Going to stick with the Auto for now......But i am using the Auto from the 3.5 ltr TH Parts car

so in reality my 1996 TE Altera is part 2000 TH

if your keeping the auto for now are you at least gonna strengthen the box? i wouldnt recommend a 4sp auto for forced induction. at least try sourcing out a 5sp tippy and just do the manual.

They look pretty good to me, I'm guessing they're not GT28's because mine had bigger actuators than those ones. The actuators that came with my turbos were too big to fit in both cases, so I had to replace them with smaller 7psi actuators at a cost of about $120 ea.
gtr turbos are a T28, but there is more than 1 size T28. the T28 really only means the flange on them. late model sr20 also run t28 but they are different to the rb26.

the only thing you have to watch out for with the turbos is if they have a ceramic exhaust wheel. i would be pulling the dump pipes off when you get the turbos and inspecting the exhaust wheels. the ceramic nissan turbos have a tendancy to fail when run on high boost, so inspect them for signs of cracking. when run at high boost they melt the resin and shoot the exhaust wheel off. the only reason nissan ran them was that they spool up quicker than steel wheels as they are lighter.

on the gtr they make full boost by under 3500rpm, so on the 3.5L they should come in nice and early. although they may choke a bit up top. i'd say a better choice (although a more expensive choice) would be a pair of s15 200sx turbos. they are steel wheeled, ball bearing (unlike the earlier silvias which were bush bearing), and would suit a 3.5L NA nicely.

So just a quick question.... Does any one have photos were i tap into for the oil feed lines, I have the returns and the water sorted....

I have organised the exhaust plates(Head and Turbo 12mm) and buttweld fittings for the manifolds so thats next.... Have an intercooler on order and once that turns up will be doing piping......

And the turbos are in good nick GTR had only done 50,000

the amount of kms done by the car doesn't mean much about condition of turbos. if it had done the last 10,000kms being thrashed, that would have an affect on the turbos.

if your keeping the auto for now are you at least gonna strengthen the box? i wouldnt recommend a 4sp auto for forced induction. at least try sourcing out a 5sp tippy and just do the manual.
again with the bagging of the 4 speed auto...

can you point me in the direction of a blown up four speed from too much power?

cheers,
.wook

Not necessarily but I know of two that have quit with stock power, decent/not rough drivers and a perfect service history.

again with the bagging of the 4 speed auto...

can you point me in the direction of a blown up four speed from too much power?

cheers,
.wook

relax wook 4sp autos are great i loved it when i had my magna but im just saying if his doing all this why not go to 5sp. shouldnt have said "wouldnt reccomend" my bad :redface:

Not necessarily but I know of two that have quit with stock power, decent/not rough drivers and a perfect service history.

yeah, and there was the guy who blew 3 in two months (can't remember his name).

I'm not saying they're bullet proof, but they're far from bad and do not deserve the maligning they receive on these forums.

mine's been fine (except when it needed a fluid flush) and I've been running 200+kw and 400+nm through it for almost a year.

cheers,
.wook

i think the only downside the 4 speed has with a turbo setup is how tall first gear is.

i think the only downside the 4 speed has with a turbo setup is how tall first gear is.

Actually probably not an awful thing, most manual boosted magnas can't put down any power in 1st anyway.

Actually probably not an awful thing, most manual boosted magnas can't put down any power in 1st anyway.

Exactly the 1st gear is only too tall due to the lack of down low torque of the stock motor. With two smaller turbos, it should spool up rather usefully quick. In this situation the taller 1st will probably work in the cars benefit.

but autos don't have the direct drive that manuals do.

and while the manuals have shorter gears it also means there is less load on the motor in the lower gears. so often you won't see quite as much boost in first gear

I thought turbo boost was based on RPM, not load... as in, the more RPM, the more exhaust gases pushing a turbo around.

I know the supercharger's boost is based on RPM, as it's directly driven via the belt.

cheers,
.wook

no load will determine boost on a turbo as much as rpm. if you go along at 6000rpm with only 1/4 throttle you will barely make boost. and if you go along at 2000rpm in top gear with your foot on the brake you will make more boost than you will if you just floor it at the same rpm in first.

in first gear the engine usually revs up so quick that it doesn't get that much load onto it. that is the main reason that you tune a car in higher gears. to get as much load onto it as possible.

Of course boost is based on RPM, it's the volume of the air flowing through the engine. WOT at idle is the same as half throttle at twice the revs.

boost isn't the volume of air flowing through an engine. it is the pressure it is at. a small turbo running at 10spi won't flow the same as a big turbo at 10psi.

an r33 i did a turbo install on made 270hp with the stock turbo at 14psi. with the new turbo it made 293hp at 12psi, and 336hp at 15psi.

Actually as the engine is under higher load more fuel is injected, meaning more exhaust gases.

More gas comes out of an engine than goes in. More boost at a lower RPM.

Of course boost is based on RPM, it's the volume of the air flowing through the engine. WOT at idle is the same as half throttle at twice the revs.

It's load mate. You can rev the guts out of a turbo car in neutral and hardly produce any boost. I know my car barely spools up in 1st because I can't hear the BOV when I change from 1st to 2nd, but can definetly hear it when changing from 2nd -> 3rd -> 4th etc.

It's load mate. You can rev the guts out of a turbo car in neutral and hardly produce any boost. I know my car barely spools up in 1st because I can't hear the BOV when I change from 1st to 2nd, but can definetly hear it when changing from 2nd -> 3rd -> 4th etc.

Yeah sorry didn't word that well, I meant say 700rpm in 4th gear wot compared to 1400rpm wot, obviously no load in neutral.

edit: still havent said it well..... **** it, rpm != load.

I will say my car makes more boost at 3000rpm than it does at 7000rpm. I can drive it quite comfortably off boost around town and still shift at 3-4k rpm. Just depends how happy ya get with the right boot.

A car that makes boost when free reving has a turbo that is on the TOO smaller side for the car its on.....

And not making boost in 1st??? how long is your inlet tract? How big is your intercooler?:nuts:

I will say my car makes more boost at 3000rpm than it does at 7000rpm. .

Thats because it's running out of PUFF at higher flow, great for torque in the lower RPM but tend to be a CHOKE up high. This must be a standard turbo?

Thats because it's running out of PUFF at higher flow, great for torque in the lower RPM but tend to be a CHOKE up high. This must be a standard turbo?
Standard TD06 16G. Doesn't run out of puff - just needs a tune, hehe. :D 25PSI through the rev range will fix things. This will happen next week, 23-25PSI, stock internals.

So what was happening? computer bleed off to protect enigine/tramsission?

Are you replacing ECU? or aftermarket boost controller?

So what was happening? computer bleed off to protect enigine/tramsission?

Are you replacing ECU? or aftermarket boost controller?
Stock boost curve on all EVO's is like a roller coaster. Full replacement Motec is on the cards with a TBE and front intercooler piping.

Stock boost curve on all EVO's is like a roller coaster. Full replacement Motec is on the cards with a TBE and front intercooler piping.

MMMMMMMMM Tasty.....:badgrin:

Blurrrd vision on takoff!!! Woot!

I will say my car makes more boost at 3000rpm than it does at 7000rpm. I can drive it quite comfortably off boost around town and still shift at 3-4k rpm. Just depends how happy ya get with the right boot.
it could also be that your boost controller (if you have one) isn't quite up to the job, or your exhaust housing is too small to flow the boost you are wanting at high rpm and it is just forcing the wastegate open.


It's load mate. You can rev the guts out of a turbo car in neutral and hardly produce any boost. I know my car barely spools up in 1st because I can't hear the BOV when I change from 1st to 2nd, but can definetly hear it when changing from 2nd -> 3rd -> 4th etc.
how big is your turbo? and what sort of tune do you have? you may need to add more timing and fuel into your lower load tune to get it to spool up a bit better.

it could also be that your boost controller (if you have one) isn't quite up to the job, or your exhaust housing is too small to flow the boost you are wanting at high rpm and it is just forcing the wastegate open.
You are pretty well bang on. Standard ECU has a built in boost controller which is quite adequate, but it still comes from the factory without a flat boost curve. Also the exhaust is very small (2.5" or smaller I believe) and the dump pipe is smaller too, so I think you're correct there also - good 3" exhaust will fix things up.

yeah get a good dump pipe will help. it will stop a lot of turbulence around the exhaust wheel of the turbo.

how big is your turbo? and what sort of tune do you have? you may need to add more timing and fuel into your lower load tune to get it to spool up a bit better.

There's 2 of them. They're GT28r's strapped to a 3.5L engine. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't complaining that my turbos "don't spool up" in 1st. My comment was that I can't hear the BOV vent when changing from 1st -> 2nd, but I can on every other gear change, hence my reasoning that boost is related to load+RPM in a turbo car.

My car definetly "spools up" in 1st, and honestly, if anything I would actually prefer it made less boost in 1st gear. As it is, I can't squeeze on more than half throttle without spinning both front wheels in 1st gear, and even when I can maintain traction while launching hard, 1st gear revs to redline in the blink of an eye anyway.

What you need is a two stage boost controller.... Less boost in first and then U can wind it up for the rest of the gears...:D

dual stage boost controller just means you have 2 preset boost settings that you can switch between on the fly....... It would get pretty annoying switching between them all the time.

You can get boost controllers with gear based boost mapping - which allows you to preset boost maps for different gears and the controller does it all automatically.

Cant you program the Aftermarket Managemaent to switch between boost setting's, using the dual stage? Then it can also be switched mid gear aswell.... No?

having to manually switch between to boost settings all the time would be a pain.

as for having the ecu do it, it would depend on the ecu. not all aftermarket ecu's do it. you would need an ecu with a built in map sensor. but even then not all of them will do multi staging boost controlled by gear. you may have to do it by speed

dual stage boost controller just means you have 2 preset boost settings that you can switch between on the fly....... It would get pretty annoying switching between them all the time.


have you thought about using a microswitch that is triggered when the gearstick is in first and second gear? there was a tech article in a car mag a while back and they showed how this was done, quite neat and worked very well.

you can buy the switches from most electronics stores and then just hide it under your gearstick boot so when the gearstick is pushed over into the position to get first or second gear it activates the switch, then just hook it up to a boost controller and you're done.

i will try to find the article on it when i have time.

wow twin turbo Altera that awesome havent seen turbo altera before post some pics when its done

have you thought about using a microswitch that is triggered when the gearstick is in first and second gear? there was a tech article in a car mag a while back and they showed how this was done, quite neat and worked very well.

you can buy the switches from most electronics stores and then just hide it under your gearstick boot so when the gearstick is pushed over into the position to get first or second gear it activates the switch, then just hook it up to a boost controller and you're done.

i will try to find the article on it when i have time.
i know the things you are talking about. we used a similar sort of thing on my mates stanza for the launch control setting on the ignition system. with the clutch in the rev limiter is set to 6000rpm, with it out it revs up to 9500rpm.

wow twin turbo Altera that awesome havent seen turbo altera before post some pics when its done
Altera is a trim pack level... There are many photos of turbocharged magnas floating around here... Booya, Blackbeard, Mitsiman...

So just a quick question.... Does any one have photos were i tap into for the oil feed lines, I have the returns and the water sorted....



Hey mate - I just had my head underneath my car....

Oil feed comes from directly above the oil filter - there is a hole there for what I assume is some form of oil pressure sensor, well on my car there is a T-piece comming out of that hole, going to the sensor, and to another T-piece, the 2nd T-piece splits off to the two turbos.

I'm tempted to get one. But from what i read, it sounds like it's more work than it should be.

From what i've read: I'll have to strengthen the gearbox, exhaust system and possible rebuild of the engine

I'm tempted to get one. But from what i read, it sounds like it's more work than it should be.

From what i've read: I'll have to strengthen the gearbox, exhaust system and possible rebuild of the engine

:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

I'm sorry, but show me any car which you can modify with a view to producing 50%+ more power than the manufacturer intended - that won't need various driveline and engine components upgraded.

:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

I'm sorry, but show me any car which you can modify with a view to producing 50%+ more power than the manufacturer intended - that won't need various driveline and engine components upgraded.

I don't know a great deal about turbos and superchargers, i don't pretend to either. It probably seems like a pretty dumb comment to you.

:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

I'm sorry, but show me any car which you can modify with a view to producing 50%+ more power than the manufacturer intended - that won't need various driveline and engine components upgraded.

The last of the Supras. lol

Thank's for that Mike will look into it today....



Just an Update.... as most may know the reason i was updating to a 3.5ltr is that my car has now done around 250'000 kays and most of it the car has been driven hard.....

as a result i thought a new motor and gearbox upgrade was in order....then i thought How about TWINS BABY

well the plan was to drop the new motor into the car buy Nov/Dec this year after it was detailed and setup for the TT install which would then happen in Jan/feb 08...

Well as luck/fate what ever it be has stuck it's fat head in and said not this time buddy....

1: My youngest brother Christopher (White Lancer)(LBL2000), Has told the family that he is getting married in December this year and would like to use my car and mums magna as the bridal cars.. Which means i would have to hurry up and get the motor done and as i dont like to rush, it will be put back a bit......

2: About 3 months ago the waterpump started to leak, and i had hoped that it would last until the Swap but alas last week it let go big time so i had no choice but to change it...

What a fun day that was...

So now that means that i can put both the engine and TT install in together......
so stay tuned will have so detailing pics up soon.....

good luck getting anything done by december

good luck getting anything done by december
Pretty sure he just said he wasn't going to... :)

good luck getting anything done by december

Just a quick note This is all being done by myself so i dont have to wait for workshops and the like...