As some may know I've just converted the maggie from winding windows to full electric windows.
RoGuE_StreaK helped me along the way showing me how to splice it into the factory power windows loom. Now i don't have any pictures at the moment but basically from the fusebox in the engine bay I've tapped into the power windows circuit from the relay. So Ive taken + and run it to + for the windows and then grounded it back to the relay, as this was the only way i was getting 12V on my multimeter.

If i tapped 12V then earthed it to the chassis of the car it would read 0V.
So if i put a window up or down one-by-one its fine, but as soon as i do 2 or more, the fuse will blow. So if i decide to both front windows up, both will go up at once, come to the top, then the fuse will blow.
The fuse its blowing in question is the power windows fuse (10A)

I'm going to be quite busy in the next few days and was wondering if any light can be shed on this problem. Any suggestions would be fantastic...
Paul

I still don't get how you have done your wiring; it should be coming from the relay, and earthing to a reliable earth point. Almost sounds as if maybe you are bypassing the relay coil, using it's power for the windows. Definitely not the way to go, and would seem to fit the symptoms.

Any chance of getting a pic of how/where you have spliced to the relay?

After checking out the schematic again, I'd almost lay money down that that's what you've done

I still don't get how you have done your wiring; it should be coming from the relay, and earthing to a reliable earth point. Almost sounds as if maybe you are bypassing the relay coil, using it's power for the windows. Definitely not the way to go, and would seem to fit the symptoms.
Any chance of getting a pic of how/where you have spliced to the relay?

As i said, Ive taken + from the relay, and then earthed it back to the relay - bit...
If i simply took power and earthed it to the chassis i got a 0V reading on the multimeter.
However having it wired up as i do is like this, At least, reading the diagram of the relay itself, this is how it should be.
Black is relay, Red is my splice into where i think im going:P

Edit* i was thinking that too...but im sure ive done it right....

The wiring in that diagram simply wouldn't work; well, it might work with the key off, but as soon as you turn the key you'd get nada.

I'll try to bust out the multimeter and take some shots tomorrow of what you should be getting from where.

The wiring in that diagram simply wouldn't work; well, it might work with the key off, but as soon as you turn the key you'd get nada.

I'll try to bust out the multimeter and take some shots tomorrow of what you should be getting from where.

And ditto of my wiring....
Thats how i thought it would work:P
by the way one red is + one red is going back(-) just incase you didnt know.

Figured that.
Using that diagram, as soon as you turn the key you'd get +12V going to both your supply and earth lines. So 0V in effect.

Figured that.
Using that diagram, as soon as you turn the key you'd get +12V going to both your supply and earth lines. So 0V in effect.

I really should of double checked this before wiring it up:P
Oh well, the more i stuff up the more other people know how not to:P

Way to suck ass Paula :P

This is great :D Less questions I need to ask when I do mine tuesday :D

OK, here goes:

http://baudalign.com/lee/pics/windowRelayCoil.jpg
Here is the power for the coil of the relay, the two pins closest to the battery. This is 0V when the key is off, 12V when on Acc or above (pardon the old unadjusted analogue multi, digi is currently dead).
Don't touch this side of the circuit.

http://baudalign.com/lee/pics/windowRelaySource.jpg
Here is the source power, which is switched through by the coil. It is on the pin closest to the front of the car, farthest from the battery (ie. top-right when looking from this direction).
This is shown here earthed via the battery negative, or a good body earth. It should always show 12V, no matter where the key is.

So, the pin you need to tap into is the one we haven't just covered; the top-left when looking from here. This will receive +12V when you turn the key to Acc or beyond; the coils will activate, allowing the constant Supply power to continue on it's merry way.

The earth of your power windows (black wire to the driver's door) just needs to find a good body earth inside the cabin. I used the same as the stereo system and console, a big-**** bolt on the floor (but I used the right-hand one rather than the left-hand where everything else goes).

http://baudalign.com/lee/pics/windowRelayPins.jpg
So, the two "gold" pins are the coil, the two... "orange" ones ("bronze"?) are the switch pins.

The attached file is a very crude wiring diagram.

The alternative is to provide constant power to the windows so that they can be used at any time, as I have done.

Yep, i think i have f**ked up.

And Lee thanks for those pictures im sure Lucifer now knows the right way in doing it too:P
Ive taken mine from the coil, but looking at the diagram on the actuall relay i thought i was tapping into the switch.

Well so much for wasting 30 mins trying to solder those wires in that super uncomfortable position.

Mrmacomofo....I reckon you should wire it this way:P
Thanks again Lee:D

what the hell is with that wiring?!

what the hell is with that wiring?!

Eh stereo +, The a few extra grounds (For bling of course lol) + a few wires for the inverter and whatknot...all adds up..

If your getting negative 12 then the wires on your multimeter are around the wrong way.

Black goes to - or com or ground.

If your getting negative 12 then the wires on your multimeter are around the wrong way.

Black goes to - or com or ground.

Sweet.
Im an idiot but hey....

Yep;
* "top left" and "bottom left" are for the coil. I assume that's with the key turned on?

* "bottom right" is the 12V ready for switching, always there.

* "top right" is where you should tap, it's the other side of the "switch"

I based my original wiring on the readings I was getting; what I was telling you was based on my bad memory and a couple of photos of the relays, which I also read the wrong way around; so I guess I can share the blame!:rant: :D (I don't get home 'til afer dark during the week, so couldn't really do a physical check)

Yeah man sa'll cool. I'm just an idiot who has somehow wired his multimeter up like a complete f**kstick.

So yeah ill sort it all out tomorrow....
Could swear the diagram on the actual relay is telling me LIES

Yay, More then 1 can go down now and no blown Fuses :cool:
Cheers Lee.

Now just to find out why I'm blowing Interior Light fuses :D

']Yay, More then 1 can go down now and no blown Fuses :cool:
Cheers Lee.

Now just to find out why I'm blowing Interior Light fuses :D

not working for ya is it paul? hahahahaha lol

but seriously, i'll be looking into doing this before years' end- who thinks its bad to leave then constant power so you can wind up/down even when ign is off? any issues with this?

not working for ya is it paul? hahahahaha lol

but seriously, i'll be looking into doing this before years' end- who thinks its bad to leave then constant power so you can wind up/down even when ign is off? any issues with this?

Not really, As long as you use a 10A fuse.
But doing this way is simple and it runs like OEM, so if anything happens it blows the P/W fuse.

only took me 20 minutes to get it working how i wanted it to

']Not really, As long as you use a 10A fuse.
But doing this way is simple and it runs like OEM, so if anything happens it blows the P/W fuse.

only took me 20 minutes to get it working how i wanted it to

looks like ill be coming over when it has to be done then paul

rofllol