Recently I tried adding some Kerosene to my oil before service and it came with some great results. The kerosene acts as a cleaning agent in your engine removing sludge and build ups. The engine seems to be a lot quieter than before, and it defiantly idles smoother.

DO NOT attempt this if you do not know how to change the oil in a car.
DO NOT try and hold me responsible if you destroy your car, I will laugh.
BE CAREFUL the engine, the oil and components under the car will be hot!

What you will need:
3L of Kerosene
Enough cheap oil for 2 changes
Enough good oil for 1 change
2 oil filters
All the tools required for an oil change
Some time

Step one: Empty about 1L of oil from the engine while warm.
Step two: Add 1L of Kerosene to the engine
Step Three: Start the engine and let it idle for 10 mins, DO NOT REV THE ENGINE, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR.
Step four: Drain engine oil, replace sump plug.
Step five: Pour 1L of Kero into the engine, then cheap motor oil until the dip stick reads full.
Step six: Start the car and let it idle for 10 mins
Step seven: Remove engine oil, replace sump plug, change the oil filter.

The oil should have some out a dark colour, if it came out looking like new oil go to step twelve.

Step eight: Was your hands, have a drink, check AMC and relax for a bit, it's time for a brake.
Step nine: Now that your refreshed, fill the car with 1L of kero and the rest engine oil.
Step ten: Start the car and let it idle for 10 mins
Step eleven: Drain the oil out, change the filter.
Step twelve: Fill the car up with the good engine oil, take it for a gentle drive.

You can repeat this process as you see fit, it is overkill to do this every oil change.
Dispose of the oil thoughtfully, most mechanics will take the oil off you free of charge, contact your council for the details of a recycling center if they don't.
You can replace the oil filter each change if you see fit, I don't think it was needed.

There are many web pages out there telling you how to do this, have a read around and check out others results.

Cheers, Evan.

nice, might do this to the 3.0 before i change it to a 3.5 to see how it goes.If i like the results, i will give it a go in the 3.5 too. Well written!

Just having a look through this thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52603&highlight=kero) and it mentions using kero can damage the rings, did you have any concerns about this?

heard something similar to this thread excpet instead of kerosine using diesel fuel to flush out the crap in the oil.
can any1 confirm this?

heard something similar to this thread excpet instead of kerosine using diesel fuel to flush out the crap in the oil.
can any1 confirm this?


yes i have heard about the diesel too, considering diesel is kerro and oil kind of... at least there is some more oil for the rings lol

I wouldnt do this to an old motor
sometimes the sludge stops the motor from burning oil
if you dislodge or start floating the harder carbon deposits they may block the oil passages to the bearing caps /shells and cams

5 minutes would be sufficent - 10 minites maximum

So doing this with a first gen is a bad move?

I'm trying to find out if i should be using some sort of flush on my first gen (115K), last service I put in fresh oil then went for a 10 minute drive and by the end the oil was already completely black, it looked the same as the old oil i had just taken out.

That would've been me reccomending the Diesel opposed to the kero flush simply because we do it sometimes at work - BMW.

Sure we stock Wynns engine flush and Wurth Engine flush but nothing works as well as diesel. Its also a hell of alot cheaper.

The method outline by the OP is very thorough but you really shouldn't need to do it more than once unless you see alot of sludgy build up under the oil cap. Just a single flush and oil filter change should suffice.

Just having a look through this thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52603&highlight=kero) and it mentions using kero can damage the rings, did you have any concerns about this?

omg - a thread i started was linked to! i feel special!!!

i did the flush with kero (as stated in that thread) - but i only put a cupfull of kero into the engine and let it sit for a few hours.

be sure to have a LARGE container to catch the thinned out oil as in my case... 4L of oil turned into 20L of thinned out oil!

instead of repeating the process of kero and oil, start etc etc as mentioned in the OP, i just put a cupfull of kero in and left it for a while, drained it and then flushed straight through (didnt put the sump plug back in) a litre or so of fresh oil to pick the crud up. change the oil filter and off you go - well that method has worked for me.
the car i did it on had 350,000kms on the clock.
i didnt start/run the car as i didnt want to risk too much damage to the engine/rings etc.

I must confess, I tried the engine flush as well, it seemed to do the exact same thing as the kero, only no where near as good.

From what I have read the engine flush is just kero and some additives.

I do not know how you multiplied your engine oil by adding a cup full, should have just been a cup full more than normal.

Thought this link might help some of you decide before attempting a engine flush

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Engine%20Flushes--The%20Latest%20Scam

I can only imagine the problems a broken of piece of varnish would do if it closed off a oil feed into a lash adjuster and then trying to work out which one was blocked..

Thought this link might help some of you decide before attempting a engine flush

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Engine%20Flushes--The%20Latest%20Scam

I can only imagine the problems a broken of piece of varnish would do if it closed off a oil feed into a lash adjuster and then trying to work out which one was blocked..

Nice article mate! No more Engine flush !!! :bowrofl: The bottom line is we should not disturb the balance that the Engine and sludge developed from staying together over a long period of happy time. lol

The engine flush mentioned there is where they pump a solvent through your engine with a special machine, almost completely different to what I have said.

Also, yes you will dislodge things, that will then be picked up and broken down by the kero in the oil.

Nice article mate! No more Engine flush !!! :bowrofl: The bottom line is we should not disturb the balance that the Engine and sludge developed from staying together over a long period of happy time. lol


It's not a balance, it's sludge and crap getting built up in your engine, making it less efficient. (which is not a happy time!)

The article also suggests that you should get your oil changes done at the mechanic because they use better oil filters and better oil. Thats just stupid.

I never said you had to do it, just some of us don't have the money to replace all the tappets, and have the oil galleries cleaned professionally. Prevention is better than a cure.

I never said you had to do it, just some of us don't have the money to replace all the tappets, and have the oil galleries cleaned professionally. Prevention is better than a cure.

thats the cornerstone of everything these days - look after 'it' and it will look after you in return.
if your doing your oil and filter changes on the required basis - you shouldnt really require to get you engine oil system flushed.

bit difficult yes when buying an old old car or a second hand one that your only 99% sure of the service history on - but when you owned the car from new and know what services its missed along the way and the mechanical history you should know how to prevent the situation which requires a big or expensive resolution.

(the only reason i had to flush my oil system in the ltd with kero really was to dislodge the crap that had built up in a motor that had done 350,oookm and had a busted head - but still 'ran'. its an old motor and will be getting rebuilt, but i needed to clear things out a bit so i didnt kill it due to lack of oil flow in the meantime - the car still has to move occasionally and its too heavy to push!! lol)

Hey people. Newbie alert. :D

So what is the verdict?

If you decide to use diesel is it near the same ratio as kero-to-oil or more diesel in it because of the oil already contained in Diesel?

Recently purchased a TR Magna, it's done 270000. Had been treated pretty bad under the hood. Have already flushed the Auto trans fluid as it was filthy brown, was nice to see it red. :bowrofl:

Now onto the oil, pretty much when you do an oil change, well after a week max, you would barely know it, its back to filth and with exams coming up its been let go further and the car is smoking at start up but then goes away after half a minute. Needs a serious flush, hopefully nothing more?

Anyone willing to give a recommendation, I was going to simply pay for an oil change and request a flush as I thought it would be more effective but it seems the opposite and it would be better to just add it to my next oil change?

ANy help/info appreciated.

Cheers.

if your car smokes at startup, i wouldnt be doing a kero/diesel flush on it.
Sounds like your rings and/or valve stem seals are leaking.

i would never use engine flush on a car for the simple fact that some of the sludge build up could be blocking places where oil could leak from. i change my oils (and filters) every 5000km so they never really get a chance to build up sludge.

Oky doke, off to the mechanic to get a professional opinion then.

Need a new right CV anyway so might as well get all done at once.

Thanks guys. :)

Just bumping this up, for I'll be planning to do this tomorrow, after the shoppe reopens (Need an oil filter, and 8 litres of Safeway's finest cheapest motor oil)

The car's 280,000km old, and has an oil pressure problem (too much, and not enough!), due to blocked galleys. Let you know the verdict tomorrow!

Hi all, just looking for some info re oils, flushing, synthetic etc and got this off this link:
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#En...0Latest%20Scam
Advantages of Synthetic
Synthetic oil was originally developed for high performance racing engines. Mobil tried to popularize synthetic oil for passenger vehicles back in the early 1970's. At the time, Mobil was promoting 20K or 25K oil changes with synthetic, but they soon backed down from this. Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a vehicle with a high performance engine (in fact synthetic is required for many of these engines). It is also a good choice if your vehicle is operated in extremely cold climates. It has higher resistance to breakdown caused by heat and it flows better in extreme cold. Unfortunately for the synthetic oil industry there is virtually no advantage to using synthetic oil in a non-high performance engine that is operated in moderate climates. You probably could go a bit longer between oil changes with a synthetic, i.e. following the normal service schedule even if you fall into the severe service category, but I wouldn't advise this. In short, synthetic may give you the peace of mind of knowing that you are using an oil that is far better than necessary for your vehicle, but it won't reduce wear or extend the life of the engine. The mistake some people make is to wrongly extrapolate these benefits onto normal engines operated in mild climates, with the ultimate lack of any knowledge being manifested with statements such as "synthetics provide 'Peace of Mind,' or 'Cheap Insurance,'" or other such nonsense
Extended Change Intervals:
Most manufacturers of synthetic oil advise users to not exceed the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval. Part of this is self interest (they don't want to be liable for any damage) but the real reason is that synthetic oil, while it does have certain advantages, still becomes contaminated
Be extremely wary of synthetic oil companies that offer to pay for your repairs if it is determined that their oil and their extended change interval recommendation caused the problem. Think for a moment of the incredible hassle you would have to go through to prove responsibility for an engine problem. Who would pay your legal bills? Who would pay for replacement transportation during the battle? The more bizarre the warranty, the poorer the product, is a good rule of thumb
sorry about the long post but I thought I would try to get some of your thoughts. Cheers

kero is fine to use as a engine oil flush.. will not do any damage if done the right way.
you will find some engine flushes you buy contain kero anyway. this way of flushing engines has been used for many many years.

NEVER DRIVE WITH IT IN ENGINE.
but you can slowly increase the rpm up to 2500rpm with out a problem.. i would not add more than 500ml
1 lt will thin the oil a bit too much.

make sure you replace the filter each time

kero is fine to use as a engine oil flush.. will not do any damage if done the right way.
you will find some engine flushes you buy contain kero anyway. this way of flushing engines has been used for many many years.

NEVER DRIVE WITH IT IN ENGINE.
but you can slowly increase the rpm up to 2500rpm with out a problem.. i would not add more than 500ml
1 lt will thin the oil a bit too much.

make sure you replace the filter each time
Yeah, I've added about a pint and a half, seems to be about right. Slowly revving the motor up to about 3500, as I need the pressure to free up all the crap in it.

Even with the amount of crap in mine, the second flush came out pretty darn clean. I'm currently waiting for the exhaust manifold to cool enough so that I can change the filter without a third degree burn, and I'll be still running Helix Diesel 15W40. At this stage, I do recommend this procedure, however I have not tried it long term.

did this yesterday and i must say that i have never seen my oil this clean though one thing i did see down there was the source of my oil leak there is no gasket on my sump...... just gasket goo and also it looks like the base where the sump nut goes in is slightly damaged and i can understand y the nut was a prick of a thing to get off incredibly tight so now i ask does any 1 no the part number for the case of the bottom of the sump and the sump gasket

and also 1 year old nieces make great off sider's for car servicing i now have oily hand prints at every door handel

Just be glad there not on your seats.

Just be glad there not on your seats.
yea she couldn't get in every time i heard her start to winge she was at a door handle pulling

on mums car she can get in easy as and normally gets in and gets in her chair and waits 4 u to buckle her up