Hey you 3rd Gen lurkers :P

Can you tell me what the setup of the standard intake is, i.e whether the air it scavenges is from holes between bonnet seals?
I had a KE but can't remember and never looked in detail.
Trying to make comparisons with the 380. Any pics would be good.

Quickly found this one..

http://bigs.omfg.net.au/pics/19122006010.jpg

On my verada, theres two bonnet seals. The one furtherest into the bonnet seals about 5cm-10cm from the front of the bonnet. The seal goes up and ontop of the intake (shown in pic) and along the metal shown in the pic.

The other seal, which is a big rubber seal, is right at the front of the bonnet and seals all along the front, on top of lights and grill, and in front of the air intake. For fun I cut a gap in this seal so the intake was not restricted by it....I gained 50fwkw.

Quickly found this one..

http://bigs.omfg.net.au/pics/19122006010.jpg

On my verada, theres two bonnet seals. The one furtherest into the bonnet seals about 5cm-10cm from the front of the bonnet. The seal goes up and ontop of the intake (shown in pic) and along the metal shown in the pic.

The other seal, which is a big rubber seal, is right at the front of the bonnet and seals all along the front, on top of lights and grill, and in front of the air intake. For fun I cut a gap in this seal so the intake was not restricted by it....I gained 50fwkw.
50kw from just cutting this piece of rubber?:shock:

Sorry that was a typo with the '0'.

Should be 500fwkw.

;)

I have no idea of any gains if any, but either way, it can't be the best having the intake sucking up against a rubber seal with limited air getting through.

50kw from just cutting this piece of rubber?:shock:

Yes, it's called the "Third Gen Cut & Run Faster" Mod. lol

Thanks, Anon, that's pretty much exactly the same design as the 380. In that case a CAI is going to deliver zero extra.

There is a NZ intake for TL's, claimed power at 173kw from the factory compared to 163kw.

Also called the JC powerup kit

Edit: It picks up the air from between the batter and the grill. There is a nice big gap between the raidator and the headlight allowing a lot of air to flow though.

There is a NZ intake for TL's, claimed power at 173kw from the factory compared to 163kw.

Also called the JC powerup kit


Does it come with rusty nails and a crown of thorns??

+ 10KW - Are you having a lend of us? :P

Does it come with rusty nails and a crown of thorns??

+ 10KW - Are you having a lend of us? :P

The kit is actually known around this forum. Jasons VRX has it. Dont believe me ask him about it, he's the one who told me about the claimed power the NZ vrx's had.

I have the NZ setup, don't know about 10kw, but definitely was noticeable for torque. Doubt it would work on pre TL's tho.

The kit is actually known around this forum. Jasons VRX has it. Dont believe me ask him about it, he's the one who told me about the claimed power the NZ vrx's had.
Don't worry, last time I doubted, i was wrong :badgrin:

I have the NZ setup, don't know about 10kw, but definitely was noticeable for torque. Doubt it would work on pre TL's tho.

Actually, can you post some detailed pics?

Ive got a NZ intake on my KE, made SFA difference except it lightened my wallet by ~150$

On TL's it might make a difference as the design of the front of the car is quite different.

The NZ CAI is good for 9kw and 8Nm on a vr-x, i'd attach the nz diamante brochure but i can't be stuffed

The NZ CAI is good for 9kw and 8Nm on a vr-x, i'd attach the nz diamante brochure but i can't be stuffed

:bowrofl: :bowrofl: and so helpful:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

I have the NZ setup, don't know about 10kw, but definitely was noticeable for torque. Doubt it would work on pre TL's tho.

Where did you get your's from?

Where did you get your's from?

Emtech Automotive here in Adelaide sell the NZ air intake for the TE/TW magna but they arnt cheap from them though.

The NZ TL vrx's did have around 9-10kw's more power than ours, wether it came from just the air intake is debatable but when i was working at MMAL i was told there cars were tuned to the same specs as ours.

Got mine from a fellow member here. Will post some pics up when I get the chance for your reference. And yes, I agree it was more than the air intake, it was probably tuned differently based on the different intake.

Don't worry, last time I doubted, i was wrong :badgrin:

Now now, no need to be sarcastic lol

Wait a tick isnt Kiwi petrol 95 Ron - and as such, their magna's are probably fuel mapped to 95 ron?

There is you 8kw.

the air coming into the front gets converted into pressure at the front of the car ..velocity and pressure are complementery when one goes down the other goes up , so when the fast moving air gets to the front it stops and becomes pressure. This gets trapped between the intake grill and the radiator...it cant get out due to the front seal along the bonnet and it cant get into the engine comartment due to the back seal so it gets forced through the radiator...and the air intake..the problem is that there is a plastic strip between the rad and the front so the only exit for up the air is through the bonnet catch holes...not good ...take away this plastic strip... open up the air intake by cutting through the little pillars inside the intake then force the sides of the intake apart, this opens it up from about 15mm to 45mm.which is more than the oval area at the filter box..you need to jam a section of plastic pipe(pvc down pipe) in there to hold the sides open otherwise they will shrink back to their old gap ..the limit to this is that the bonnet stops it going from higher than 45 mm when it is closed. the downside also is that the only access the air has to the air intake is through the gap between the underside of the bonnet and the top of the radiator. I also added a 65mm drain tube from the rear of the intake where it flattens after the resonator down to the front of the bumper inlet area

which forum on the MCC is your intake photo

Actually, can you post some detailed pics?


Not very detailed, but you get an idea.

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/garage.php?mode=view_gallery_item&type=garage_mod&image_id=655

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=11_292_295&products_id=4941

Maybe its just me, but I fail to see where the 'cold air' is coming from. It's still sucking from inside the engine bay?

Maybe its just me, but I fail to see where the 'cold air' is coming from. It's still sucking from inside the engine bay?

correct, where as in a std aus 3rd gen it take the air from the bonnet opening...

i have played around with the remote thermometer and tested the under bonnet temps everywhere while driving and stationary with car running to see where my cai should be set up

So its a CAI in name only?

Good work on getting the thermometer out. Have you worked out where the best place should be? Theres also the air pressure to consider as well.

Here's a pic of what I did to get my 500fwkwwtfgtfothxkbye. Note the inner seal that seals up and around the stock intake. But the outter seal then goes and seals right in front of the intake :nuts: That was until I cut a portion of the seal off to allow some more air to get in (notice the portion in front of the bonnet catch has been taken of).

Not very detailed, but you get an idea.

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/garage.php?mode=view_gallery_item&type=garage_mod&image_id=655

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=11_292_295&products_id=4941


Well like i said it's a TL CAI.........

Maybe its just me, but I fail to see where the 'cold air' is coming from. It's still sucking from inside the engine bay?

Anon, if you wish to look at my setup when my car is back on the road then your more than welcome. You will see that plenty of cold air from the front of the car actually gets to that part of the engine bay (even more so on the TL/TW when the small plastic piece is removed from near the radiator) for the purpose of that pic i had also removed the battery box "top" (that TL/TW's dont have) so the intake could be shown. The top needed a bit of reworking to fit again with that air intake but with it on it practically "seals" it off from the majority of the engine bays hot air

There is also wide open space near the receiver dryer unit and as i actually cut away part of the plastic battery box bottom (the part that covers the receiver/dryer on the TH/TJ's) and then made up a small alloy "scoop" that directs the colder front on air up towards the battery and air intake, also the inlet no longer runs over top of the hot radiator like the stock snorkel.

Take alook at a FPV typhoon, it runs the stock XR6T airbox/over the radiator inlet BUT adds a second air inlet that draws air in from behind the left headlight.

All in all it works on my car, has proven itself to be good enough and the best bit was it cost me stuff all to do it plus it looks factory to the cops eyes. :P

At the end of the day a CAI/modded air inlet on a stock/mildly worked magna (unless its forced induction) really isnt going to give huge power increases but torque increases may be better and that is what most people need for street use

Now now, no need to be sarcastic lol
That was to Sports because I doubted him about the 5kw difference the NZ 380 intake made. All history now and not directed at you.

You will see that plenty of cold air from the front of the car actually gets to that part of the engine bay (even more so on the TL/TW when the small plastic piece is removed from near the radiator) for the purpose of that pic i had also removed the battery box "top" (that TL/TW's dont have) so the intake could be shown.

So in your opinion the NZ intake will get plenty of cold air in a TJ? I had around my engine bay and gave up on the idea, as my impression was it would be sucking on mostly hot engine bay air. Perhaps I need to have a closer look?

The problem with the DIY drainpipe style CAI is at the track I sucked up alot of crap from the track surface and sand when I had an off. If the NZ intake achieves the same thing but without filling my airbox with crap, I'm sold.

Well I'm sure you all know by now, but this is what it looks like. I took a close up on where it feeds air from which is through the 'fins' on the grill. Perfect for a TL/TW.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q85/grkvrx/amc33.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q85/grkvrx/amc22.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q85/grkvrx/amc11.jpg

Did you remove that tiny little splash plate behind the grill?

Yeppers, otherwise it would be drawing the said hot engine bay air.

Thanks VR33XY,

Interesting that the opening is a lot smaller than the cross section halfway along where the elbow is. By the shape, it looks like it was developed with some effort. Quite unusual.

Ninja bump..

VR33XY, could you possibly post a pic of how you much you trimmed your battery box? Got one of these the other day and haven't got around to installing it yet.

Hey Piv sorry I didn't get back on your PM. The battery box which i cut was sort of a gradual process. Kept fitting and re-fitting shaving down more and more as I went to get the perfect fit. It's really all trial and error, just mount it up and see what needs cutting. Watch your hands though, that plastic can be sharp!

Hey Piv sorry I didn't get back on your PM. The battery box which i cut was sort of a gradual process. Kept fitting and re-fitting shaving down more and more as I went to get the perfect fit. It's really all trial and error, just mount it up and see what needs cutting. Watch your hands though, that plastic can be sharp!

Ok cheers, thats what I was planning on... did you use a hacksaw or tin snips?

Snips, as the plastic is quite thick in places.

I'm borrowing this thread instead of starting a new one...

I started monitoring the intake temperature of my KW a week ago by placing a very sensitive
thermometer (used to monitor medical fridges at my wife's work) right at the mouth of the intake
with a display in the cabin.

On a cool sunny day of 20degs, while cruising, the temperature reads 18 degs. While stationary
at the lights, it reaches 30 degs for 30 second stay, 40 degs for a longer stay (eg rail crossing).

On a cool night of 16 degs, while cruising, the temperature reads 15 degs. While stationary at the
lights, it reaches 26 degs for short stays and 36 degs for a longer stay.

On a hot day of 30 degs, while cruising, the temperature reads 29 degs. While stationary at the
lights, it reaches 40 degs for short stays and 50 degs for longer stays.

During the day, after a 30 minute drive and stopping, the temperature peaks at 60 degs and its
about 10 degs lower at night.

To me this indicates there is no blockage of the intake as it is getting air at/just lower than the outside
air temperature. It increases while stationary because there is not much air going through
it and hence it soaks up the radiator heat. However, when the car is stationary under the sun for
a while with the intake temperature readign 50 degs, it drops down to 48 degs as soon as the engine
is turned on.

Well for anyone interested you have to trim down by about 30mm from where the coolant hose sits towards the center of the engine bay and it fits snug.

Vlad - interesting stuff, although I thought the reduced restriction would be more beneficial than the lower temps, but the design of the NZ intake may improve temps a lot, the stock snorkel sits on top of the radiator pretty much soaking up heat, this one gets more air around it etc.

Bum in the seat dyno says more torque from lower revs and especially in the middle where it counts, still drops off really quick from 5k rpm onwards but I still think that's a function of the cam profile more than anything, and probably the poverty pack muffler.

Then again it could be a great big dose of placebo.

33501I did this a while back, it look dodgy as **** but the whole thing seals against the bonnet. This set up gets the AFM as cold as the outside air..ie lift the bonnet and the AFM is COLD after a drive

33501I did this a while back, it look dodgy as **** but the whole thing seals against the bonnet. This set up gets the AFM as cold as the outside air..ie lift the bonnet and the AFM is COLD after a drive

Might look dodgy but effective.

so where is the best place to for cold air.

i am thinking of running a pipe between the radiator and the headlights just in front of the battery box. don't really want to put it down low as i don't want to be picking up rocks, and kids and stuff.

so where is the best place to for cold air.

i am thinking of running a pipe between the radiator and the headlights just in front of the battery box. don't really want to put it down low as i don't want to be picking up rocks, and kids and stuff.
Since you have a TL, read this thread; Easy TL CAI!!! (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16688) and this; CAI Flex pipe (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48649)

Just another post on the temp readings. Its very windy this morning in Adelaide with a strong
westerly. Anyhow, cruising temperature was 16degs and when stopped at the lights it reached
the usual 33 degs. However, while stopped on intersection of Sir Donald and South, facing West
for 5 minutes to turn right (rushhour traffic) the temp only reached 20degs. So, the wind was
getting into the air intake cooling it down.

Just another post on the temp readings. Its very windy this morning in Adelaide with a strong
westerly. Anyhow, cruising temperature was 16degs and when stopped at the lights it reached
the usual 33 degs. However, while stopped on intersection of Sir Donald and South, facing West
for 5 minutes to turn right (rushhour traffic) the temp only reached 20degs. So, the wind was
getting into the air intake cooling it down.

If it's affecting temps in the stock snorkel then of what it'd do for the TL driving alone with the fins in the grill pushing the air in.

thanks piv. exactly what i was after.

will do it as soon as i get the pipe.
i cant really do a before and after dyno. as the car isn't moving. oh well.