hey guys, since saturday ive been having a lil trouble starting the car.

it starts just fine but after turning the key to ignition it cranks twice or three times longer than normal and then starts. seems to be gettin longer too and im gettin a lil worried is this a battery issue?

cheers, tim

if the battery is charged and not too old

the starters solenoid may be holding out the engaging teeth too long

we need to remove the starter and free it up a bit

or fit a new solenoid or overhaul your starter

try tapping the starter with a hammer

(must be the new muffler you put on ):badgrin:

hmmm battery is about 18 months old. only does this when cold. she starts fine when shes warm

battery, when it gets warm the voltage is higher.

Edit: Try it with another battery just to be sure.

battery, when it gets warm the voltage is higher.

Edit: Try it with another battery just to be sure.

thats what ive been thinking, will try that. thanx mate

Just curious, does your engine lack power when driving.

Already replied in another post, but from the sounds of it, there is a chance a sensor of some type is not working which helps the car start/run when cold, but I would check with someones new battery to check to see if it goes away.

Ollie

i286: nah mate no power lacking whatsoever.

the cranking isnt slower just cranks 8 or 10 times as opposed to 3 or 4.

recently the battery light has come on while driving and then gone off just as quickly... what could this mean.

ive got a new alternator and 18 month old battery...
thanx guys

sorry tim, was urgent so i made two threads

Might want to check things like the fuel pressure regulator and the ignition system, such as plugs, leads and dissy. I had a problem with my FPR being jammed and was making the car take ages to start... I replaced that and 1/2 - 1 crank and it's running :D

Battery light (charge warning lamp) if illuminates while driving usually mean that there is a problem in the charging system. It could be anything from faulty alternator or voltage regulator,faulty battery, faulty charging circuit wiring or connections, broken/loose alternator drive belt, faulty charge warning bulb or circuit, dirty or loose battery terminals.

My money is on your regulator or your starter motor.
My car got harder and harder to start out of the blue and then eventually died. Mechanic hit the starter with a hammer and it turned on. Cost me $80 swap over from the wreckers and a piece of piss to install:)

Starter motor. If each crank isnt a short crisp sound (ie. 1/4 a second each crank) then probably your starter motor. I replaced mine about a year ago and it starts either second or third crank these days.

Starter motor. If each crank isnt a short crisp sound (ie. 1/4 a second each crank) then probably your starter motor. I replaced mine about a year ago and it starts either second or third crank these days.

thats the thing tho, it sounds perfectly fine, only problem is it just cranks for longer then starts. started on the 2nd crank today tho which was weird :confused:

Check compression, spark plugs, you say the starter works fine just the motor needs more time/revolutions to start? Maybe your injectors are dirty, clogged throttle body maybe? Temp sensor?

I dont know just throwing things up in the air......

Check compression, spark plugs, you say the starter works fine just the motor needs more time/revolutions to start? Maybe your injectors are dirty, clogged throttle body maybe? Temp sensor?

I dont know just throwing things up in the air......

hahah thanx for the input mate but all that is fine, just had the injectors cleaned properly. still working this out, but on the way home i blew another heater hose :rant: so another thing to fix lol

Blew ANOTHER heater hose? Do you need to replace them all because of age? or may there be somthing else? Thermostat working ok? Cracked head or head gasket? Might explain the hard starts if 1 or more cylinders are partly full of water...

Blew ANOTHER heater hose? Do you need to replace them all because of age? or may there be somthing else? Thermostat working ok? Cracked head or head gasket? Might explain the hard starts if 1 or more cylinders are partly full of water...

haha yeah mate, flushed the whole system clean and replaced it with nice clean coolant thermostat and a temp sender. id say the hose cracked coz the flush removed all the sludge and scale holding it together hahah. head gasket is fine, normal oil colour no white smoke. tho i may replace soon. keep the ideas coming tho

I know it's not the AFM... i did some work on my car and left it off and it wasn't untill it started, it the proceded to stop.Started fine and revved normally. Another thing ruled out.. :D

These little things bug me aswell cause you want to fix the problem if there is one before it leaves you on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere!:rant:

if i was you id borrow a working battery/starter/and alt off a friend and swap them over one by one to cross them off the list.

Another thing id do if i was you is go to dick smith and buy a can of crc contact cleaner for 12 bucks (used for cleaning high end electrical equipment). then go the your local sumpermarket and get some q tips (what you use to clean out your ears)
then give all the connections in your engine bay a good clean. You'd be surprized at how smooth the car will run after you do that and probably start easyer.
my tp wouldn't start one day and that was recomended to me , now after the clean it started first go and idle smother (maybe the current can flow easyer now with the clean conections).

P.S my tp starts first crank everytime never had to wait more than one crank so im sure that yours should be able to do the same seeing as we have the same engine.

if i was you id borrow a working battery/starter/and alt off a friend and swap them over one by one to cross them off the list.

Another thing id do if i was you is go to dick smith and buy a can of crc contact cleaner for 12 bucks (used for cleaning high end electrical equipment). then go the your local sumpermarket and get some q tips (what you use to clean out your ears)
then give all the connections in your engine bay a good clean. You'd be surprized at how smooth the car will run after you do that and probably start easyer.
my tp wouldn't start one day and that was recomended to me , now after the clean it started first go and idle smother (maybe the current can flow easyer now with the clean conections).

P.S my tp starts first crank everytime never had to wait more than one crank so im sure that yours should be able to do the same seeing as we have the same engine.

thanx smooth, ill give that a go hey, sounds like it would do a few tricks.
well just replaced two heater hoses and refilled the coolant and shes lookin good for now so ill see how it goes tomorrow, shouldnt be a problem

btw smooth i believe i have a few items here for you.. mirrors? am i correct? whats the dealio with these?

well i figured out the the problem. isnt anything electrical much to my surprise.

slight fuel leak where the line meets the fuel rail (must be blown O ring)

so when the car is off, fuel drips out until it loses pressure, allowing air into the line which means the pump has to pump a lil longer to get the fuel there. explaining my not so crash hot economy lol, causes for problems can be crazy these days

I'm surprised you couldn't smell fuel.....

The simple things eh.... I replaced all mine when i got the car. He he:D

I'm surprised you couldn't smell fuel.....

The simple things eh.... I replaced all mine when i got the car. He he:D

well i have been since yesterday which led me to the problem lol.

someone stole my wallet :rant:

Lucky it diddn't spray the engine bay.... Or Poooof! got some marshmallows!:bowrofl:

Lucky it diddn't spray the engine bay.... Or Poooof! got some marshmallows!:bowrofl:

Vtec kicked in about now lol

Is it running better @ all? In general?

Is it running better @ all? In general?

what? the Vtec? lol nah havent got around to fixing it yet :doubt: uberlaziness will do it soon tho

Aahh! so not fixed yet?

unfortunately no, gotta find time to pull off the hose and figure out what size O ring, if any, it has then buy a new one n replace it

:rant: I want to see NUMBERS god damn it! HAHA:bowrofl:

:rant: I want to see NUMBERS god damn it! HAHA:bowrofl:

lol wtf, numbers for what?

The numbers for the VTEC when you fix it D!CK:bowrofl:

The numbers for the VTEC when you fix it D!CK:bowrofl:

mate my numbers are thru the roof, its hectic! lol

well i just changed over the O ring on the fuel line between the filter and rail and she aint leaking no more! see how she goes tomorrow. should solve my cranking and fuel problems :D