As i've stated in the past, the transmission in the TR seems to be stuffed. Possibly Dexron III damage. They determined the problem was the damper clutch solenoid, as they called it, which was so called "replaced" and it went fine for about 3 months before starting again. Later found the solenoid was not replaced at all, just cleaned up and tweaked a little.

It's intermittent, it will start in 1st and drive, revs for about a second, shifts into 2nd then into 3rd seemingly fine. With overdrive ON, the revs are much harder and sometimes longer, around 2 to 3 seconds.

Today though, it shifted perfectly across all gears, sans overdrive which wasn't used. It worked when both hot and cold from 8:00 AM this morning all the way to 3:00 PM this afternoon.

So what's your opinion? I'm guessing either faulty solenoid and possibly a faulty overdrive band, defective computer or in the worst case, stuffed transmission.

PS. Yes I have searched the forums before by the way, but didn't see a thread where the problems would occasionally "go away" or any mention of a possible fault in the solenoids.

My overdrive went first, then not long after lost 1st gear. It's cheaper to do a change over unit or if you have the money get reconditioned, fixing just the overdrive band was something crazy like $400 some places quoted higher. Revving out was also a major issue when mine was on the way out, delayed shifts between gears etc.

Have you tried a flush with mitsubishi trans oil?


Might also be either the Ecu or tcu. If everything runs fine when the solenoid was cleaned it may only be that, how many k's does the car have? It's no secret auto transmissions are dogey, everyone on here will say "convert to manual"

p.s I suggest driving without overdrive on, only on 80kp/h+ roads, not local driving. I've hear using it at lower speeds damages the band quicker.

Trans was flushed out with Mitsubishi trans fluid by Exhaust Plus, and while it improved its condition, it certainly didn't solve the problem.

The car is fairly well used, it reads "250,000" on the dash but i've been told it's clocked over. Although it's very hard to believe it's done 1,250,000km so I just stick with 250,000. lol Fairly sure the engine has been reconditioned as well.

We haven't driven with overdrive on for about 6 months now. Converting to manual isn't really an option unfortunately as i'm not the only user of this car and while I intend to learn up manual, the others don't or either don't like driving manual much. Besides i'm fairly pleased with it as-is apart from these problems. Maybe some time later on down the track (along with a possible V6 conversion :badgrin:)

I'd say it's the worst case scenario. An auto with 250K on it is on borrowed time. The clutch packs will be worn out, the drum and band will be almost sanded down to nothing, and the valve body and solenoids will be tired.

The pause between selection and engagement of gears is a solenoid fault. Generally they're reliable, but they wear out like everything else.

The revving between gears is the band slipping against the drum; the more it slips, the worse the wear is.

The F4A23 and F4A33 transaxles have a problem with excessive oil pump play, which might be contributing to the problem.

To be honest, you pretty much need a new gearbox.

My old one started flaring between gear changes. That plus all it's other problems at over 250,000 k prompted me to regard the car as "used up" and I got a low km replacement car with a manual box.

An auto with 250K on it is on borrowed time. To be honest, you pretty much need a new gearbox.

hahaha unless its my mercedes 280k and drives like new, or my old hilux 320+k and again like new or my Val unknown Km 40yo and like new, all them cars on original drive train and all tip top!

must be something about magnas ;)

i agree with all else, and you said NEW! buying a 2nd hand wrecker auto is a gamble, might be good for a week a month a year or not good at all, and rember wrecker wty's dont cover labour costs either... similar thing happened to my ex, $2500new got it gone for $600 (wrecker) and was better than new..... then the engine let go :bowrofl:

how much do you like your car? cos it might be time to consider something else if it cost more to repair than it's worth...

Well it's done 250,000 tops. In that time it's had a lot of the bodywork repaired, new radiator, reconditioned engine, replaced valve stem seals, new battery, new brakes, etc. Cosmetically it has a new boot lid, new Japanese Sigma grille, new roof piece, new carpets, new door trims and some various changes, including a new sound system, new speakers, new door trims to hold the speakers...

...long story short, i'm not about to give it up without a fight. It's just a trans and 2 engine mounts off of TR perfection (if there is such a thing lol) and overall i've become quite fond of it mostly for the quick responce and steering.

Best bet is a trans from the wreckers, may get a trans specialist to come along and assess one before pulling it.

Side question... the KMs counter on the dash reads "250627", just looking around the answer seems to be conflicting, would that be 250,627 or 25,062.7 (as is on some cars the last digit is 1/10 of a KM).

probably looking at replacing the torque converter

and the TCU for now
as long as you have drive and reverse the problem will be electrical

an overdrive kit is DIY or an easy fix with the box still in the car

and an have the kickdown solienoid check /adjusted if required

then if the oil is going brownish the drive and friction disks are wearing

no need for box rebuild at this point

yeah my bro's auto ks have made it to 390'000k's probably near 400 now. I can't say its had ideal care either. luck?

If you love the car and have come this far then you certainly shouldn't give up on it.

More power to your elbow, sir!


...long story short, i'm not about to give it up without a fight. It's just a trans and 2 engine mounts off of TR perfection (if there is such a thing lol) and overall i've become quite fond of it mostly for the quick responce and steering.

probably looking at replacing the torque converter

and the TCU for now
as long as you have drive and reverse the problem will be electrical

an overdrive kit is DYI or an easy fix with the box still in the car

and an have the kickdown solienoid check /adjusted if required

then if the oil is going brownish the drive and friction disks are wearing

no need for box rebuild at this point



No better answer then this, enough said. Good stuff magna buff

then if the oil is going brownish the drive and friction disks are wearing

no need for box rebuild at this point

Hmm mine seems to be doing this, can this be fixed or do you just wait till the tranny dies?

Ollie

Good news is that the trans fluid is still the pink/red colour it should be, and has been since the last trans flush about 6 months ago. (I check it regularly just to be sure)

Hmm mine seems to be doing this, can this be fixed or do you just wait till the tranny dies?

Ollie


You may loose a gear, then its worth thinking about replacing or repairing, because if one gear goes most likely their all on the way out.

Worth keeping fresh trans fluid in though, to prolong it.

Ok, after much consideration and second opinion from mechanics, i'm now looking to swap out the TCU. Searched around a bit and concluded that I need the right part/make/model number of TCU and it's under the dash, but just to save myself some time:

1. Did the TR and TS share a TCU series, for example could I find the same part number TCU in a TS? Does this include Verada KR/KS as well?

2. Memory is hazy, but the TCU is behind the console and carpet in the passenger side footwell, correct? Can I just access it from there or will the entire dash need to come out?

If the job becomes too tedious I may just hand the car over to a local place that replaces TCU's... he's quoted us $250 to test it, find the right one and fit it, which isn't too bad a price. A lot better than the $2000 we were quoted for a new trans at least. (parts and labour)

Hmm mine seems to be doing this, can this be fixed or do you just wait till the tranny dies?

Ollie

do an oil and filter change see what is in the filter

DIY for the oil change just get the right sump gasket and filter

then go to the next step if required

do an oil and filter change see what is in the filter

DIY for the oil change just get the right sump gasket and filter

then go to the next step if required

Just to add, metal flakes or dark burnt oil is a bad sign and means internal damage


Ok, after much consideration and second opinion from mechanics, i'm now looking to swap out the TCU. Searched around a bit and concluded that I need the right part/make/model number of TCU and it's under the dash, but just to save myself some time:

1. Did the TR and TS share a TCU series, for example could I find the same part number TCU in a TS? Does this include Verada KR/KS as well?

2. Memory is hazy, but the TCU is behind the console and carpet in the passenger side footwell, correct? Can I just access it from there or will the entire dash need to come out?

If the job becomes too tedious I may just hand the car over to a local place that replaces TCU's... he's quoted us $250 to test it, find the right one and fit it, which isn't too bad a price. A lot better than the $2000 we were quoted for a new trans at least. (parts and labour)




On the 2nd gens their are 4 different type of TCU's.

-2 of them have 2 plugs
-2 of them have 3 plugs

The amount of plugs has nothing to do with shift pattern, it is the type of trans used

the main difference, aside from the number of plugs is the shift pattern is a little better for the 4cyl than the 6 as the 6 has more torque thus can change sooner

you can use either 4 or 6cyl units as long as the plugs match
------------------------------------

And yes its under the lefthand side near the heater, also $250 just to test it you could buy a reco'd one or 2nd hand and try yourself.

Just checked, it's a 3 plug connector. Will look for one at the wreckers next time i'm down there.

Also the $250 includes testing, sourcing a replacement part and fitting it, but i'm fairly certain I can do this myself now and save a few $$$.