Hey guys. Im having a bit of a problem with my gear box and im stuffed if I can figure it out. Ive got the full service manual for my Series II Verada and the problem is as follows:
The gearbox is automatic and when the gears are going up its a smooth change, however when the gears come back down when im slowing there is a very violent "jolt" or vibration from the gears. The workshop manual says to adjust the manual linkage to fix this problem but I have no idea how to do it as I cant find it in the workshop manual.

Any help would be well appreciated guys!! :cool:

the only thing that i can think of is to get the tranny flushed/serviced. and do a reset of the computer

i agree with perry, take your car to an auto specialist and get a service done. Usually a flush and filter change will do wonders. Expect to pay around $160.

Ahk, thanks guys. I wasnt sure if it was just an easy adjustment or what. The previous 1991 Magna I had did have the same problem and when it got flushed it never did it again so hopefully thats all it is! Perry what did you mean by a reset of the computer, did you mean for me to ask the Mech. to do a reset for me. Thanks for the help fellas! :bowrofl:

Ahk, thanks guys. I wasnt sure if it was just an easy adjustment or what. The previous 1991 Magna I had did have the same problem and when it got flushed it never did it again so hopefully thats all it is! Perry what did you mean by a reset of the computer, did you mean for me to ask the Mech. to do a reset for me. Thanks for the help fellas! :bowrofl:

just take your battery terminal for like an hour(i do it over night), put them back on and go for a nice drive, not flogging it, you will notice you will get better fuel econnomy as well

Computer reset is usually just disconnect the battery for a few minutes; make it 10 to make sure.

It will then need to relearn settings, so be warned that it may stall etc for a while. Try leaving it idling normally in your driveway, then add different combinations of load, like aircon, brakes, steering etc., the idle should drop and the recover; this should fasttrack the training, make it less susceptible to dying in the middle of a roundabout (where you get the bonus load of braking + steering + dropping revs + ...)

(started writing that then got distracted midway through, so didn't see Perry's response)

Computer reset is usually just disconnect the battery for a few minutes; make it 10 to make sure.

It will then need to relearn settings, so be warned that it may stall etc for a while. Try leaving it idling normally in your driveway, then add different combinations of load, like aircon, brakes, steering etc., the idle should drop and the recover; this should fasttrack the training, make it less susceptible to dying in the middle of a roundabout (where you get the bonus load of braking + steering + dropping revs + ...)

(started writing that then got distracted midway through, so didn't see Perry's response)

its all good, you explained it better anyway :D

Thats interesting, I didnt know the Computer lost settings and learned them again. From what I could tell in the workshop manual that the settings in the computer were actually hardwired so to speak so that the only way to "reset" or "adjust" the codes you would have to link it up to a laptop/such device of some sort via the access under the hood (near the fuse box) I guess im gunna take off the terminal tonight and give it a reset :D

yes, but if you kill power to it long enough for all memory to be wiped it wont remember a thing :P. Try the computer reset first, but if you still have issues, my money is on a transmission service (Especially if you just got the car, who knows when the previous owner last did it.)

Well i gave it a full reset overnight so it forgot what it knows (reminds me of a gold fish lol) but no luck thismorning,still doing the same thing so the next move is the flush and filter change. Im trying to figure out if i followed the workshop manual if it would be cheaper to do it myself or just pay someone because its more convenient. The guy that owned it before me was a mechanic and supposedly did it just before I bought it but I get the feeling he was lying lol. Its still only a baby mind you, just touched 140,000 so plenty more life left in it :D

If it's acting strange dropping down gears, it will most likely be either the kickdown band on the transmission, or the TPS could be significantly out of adjustment.

The kickdown band I would not recommend adjusting yourself, as it is a slightly involved procedure and would be better to get the transmission specialists to check. The TPS is fairly easy to adjust, and all you need for this is some clipleads, a multimeter and a feeler gauge.

Well bad news guys ,now im stuck. Ive tried resetting the ecu, I got the tranny flushed, new filter and adjusted yesterday and im still having the same problem. Im not sure what step to take next but its worrying me a fair bit now, what should i do? The flush fixed reverse for me but its still sending a shock through the chassis when coming down from gears (eg stopping for a light) :confused:

Well bad news guys ,now im stuck. Ive tried resetting the ecu, I got the tranny flushed, new filter and adjusted yesterday and im still having the same problem. Im not sure what step to take next but its worrying me a fair bit now, what should i do? The flush fixed reverse for me but its still sending a shock through the chassis when coming down from gears (eg stopping for a light) :confused:

did you shift through the gears manually to see if it does it? Just to check if it's the kickdown cable or if it's something else. when slowing down, shift down using OD OFF-D-2.

I havent tried that yet. So leave OD off, then when coming back from say 80km/h while in drive shift back to second then shift back to L? (Remembering this is an auto) Sounds like an easy task ill give it a go when I leave work :D

I havent tried that yet. So leave OD off, then when coming back from say 80km/h while in drive shift back to second then shift back to L? (Remembering this is an auto) Sounds like an easy task ill give it a go when I leave work :D

drive with o/d on for a bit, when you're slowing down, switch it off, let it slow the car down, then shift into 2. don't shift into L until you're stopped. you'll feel a mighty jolt if you do.lol

I could be wrong but I don't think 2nd Gen transmissions have "learning" capability.

From the factory workshop manual diagnostic chart, the possible causes of excessive vibration-shock during D-2 downshift are:

2: Engine performance malfunction (??)
13: Malfunction of valve body (sticking valve, working cavity, adjustment etc.)
18: Malfunction of low-reverse brake or piston
20: Malfunction of end clutch or piston (check ball hole, other)
22: Malfunction of TPS, or improper adjustment
23: Pulse generator A damaged or disconnected wiring, or short circuit
27: Malfunction of ignition system signal
38: Malfunction of TCU (transmission control unit)

My brother's car had the same problem and in his case it was cured with TPS adjustment.

How is your idle speed.

If the ISC is faulty and the idle too fast it will jolt into lower gears as you describe.

Rob

Also ave a look at the engine mounts. My auto 2nd gen always had a harsh downshift when braking rapidly. It would bang down through the gears and jerk the engine in it's mountings. If the mounts are getting old and torn it will be accentuated.

I think i remember reading somewhere on later models (3rd gen) they put a setting in the computer to cut torque delivery when decelerating to ease this issue. Anyone heard of that?

Hmm, are you meant to drive around most places with OD off because I only thought u left it off when u wanted to get up a hill? I tried yann89 said but with no real success, when shifting into second its hard to get the change spot on so it jerks even more. (Because when moving into 2nd the car naturally jolts because of the rev range from being in Drive)

The rev range is steady and constant, with the throttle fully open or almost shut it still has the correct rev range, and idle sits between 700-800 rpm as factory setting states.

Rob_D im not 2 sure what you mean with the ISU? Or did u mean ECU? The revs seem ok downshifting but ill double check just to be sure tonight.

TR 300000, the setting for the torque delivery could be a good idea but does anyone know if this has been a known problem or if its easily fixed?

Good 2 see all is on the ball, hopefully we can nut it out so I can think about getting the forged internals done ;-)

ISC = Idle Speed Controller = Stepper Motor.

Rob

Well I killed the overdrive stopping at a set of lights and when the box was about to shift I moved it onto 2nd gear, then at a stop placed it into L. It was amazlingy hard to shift before the box did but I got it to work. And guess what, it didnt do it again, so where does this leave me, does this mean its a kickdown adjustment or does it go deeper?

Ive been trying to get my hands on a MUT-II to do a diagnostics check and complete a run while the problem occurs but having trouble getting my hands on one, my guess is they are either rare (Because MUT-III is out) or darn expensive. Mitsubishi pointed me in the direction of STX OTC Tools but no luck getting one there anymore...

Thanks again guys for helpin out! :clap:

please explain what you mean by "it didnt do it again".

has the problem stopped all together or was it just when you shifted?

It still does it, just didnt do it when I killed the OD and shifted down into 2nd

get someone to check kickdown cable then. might be too tight or too loose.

just a suggestion.

Ive been told the kingdown cable adjustment is all electronic?
The poor rada hasnt been too good latley, ive had to get a new distributor cap and now a fuel pump. There seems to be a fair bit of power being lost somewhere and im fairly certain its the spark plugs but cant get the damn leads off!
The original problem i had in this thread has got even worse now, the shudder is much harder now... :cry:

You have trans issues here, it is common on the V6 autos to "shunt" when on down shift, especially on a fast stop. This is usually absorbed by the softer engine mounts the auto's use, if your mounts are stuffed this will be really evedent.

I would say you are losing power from trans mainly if you have more serious shunting, also get your injectors cleaned as this is a very common cause for loss of power

You have trans issues here, it is common on the V6 autos to "shunt" when on down shift, especially on a fast stop. This is usually absorbed by the softer engine mounts the auto's use, if your mounts are stuffed this will be really evedent.

I would say you are losing power from trans mainly if you have more serious shunting, also get your injectors cleaned as this is a very common cause for loss of power

So my first action would be to get the struts checked out and have the injectors cleaned out? I would assume that the injectors are not something that i could clean out myself? I would tend to think that the shunting from the gearbox would most likley not be the struts as the gearbox is making the jolt causing the shunting through the chassis, however that definately could be an option.
I did notice today that during the downshift as it is about to shunt the RPM rises around about 200 rpm before it drops down, sorta like its shifting up a tad higher before the downshift, hense causing the sudden shudder?

there not struts mate they called engine mounts , when you look down in the engine bay (stand in front of the car with the bonnet open and look staight down you will see a black round thing thats one of them)

with the injectors from what i've read is that its best to get them serviced by a professioal

btw how munch does it usually cost to get the injectors done (mine need doing as well)

Injectors 40 - 60 each depending on place.

Also check your TPS and make sure is 100% adjusted.

I am not sure where you got struts from, I do not recall even mentioning struts.....

As I said, there is a common issue with these trans where you will get a shunt when braking hard, just as you come to a stop. The TS fixed the issue by the way the TCU handles the trans but can still happen even then

A workaround I found for the TN/P when they do it, is right before the stop, to release the brakes, then apply them to hold the car.