Hi all...

Sounds dumb but I've never had to question this...
I have a 800Wrms Response monoblock which I bought from eBay for not much as it was faulty. Well I reckon I have fixed it and want to test it.

Now my existing sub is a DVC wired in series to present an 8ohm load to my current 2x150Wrms amp (bridged @ 500Wrms).
Can i connect the 800W amp up to it? Reason I ask is that the specs mention 1, 2 and 4 ohm stable but don't mention 8... I don't want to blow it just after I have fixed it! And I dont want to have to unscrew my sub, pull it out and rewire it... yes I am lazy :P

Cheers
Pete

Hi all...

Sounds dumb but I've never had to question this...
I have a 800Wrms Response monoblock which I bought from eBay for not much as it was faulty. Well I reckon I have fixed it and want to test it.

Now my existing sub is a DVC wired in series to present an 8ohm load to my current 2x150Wrms amp (bridged @ 500Wrms).
Can i connect the 800W amp up to it? Reason I ask is that the specs mention 1, 2 and 4 ohm stable but don't mention 8... I don't want to blow it just after I have fixed it! And I dont want to have to unscrew my sub, pull it out and rewire it... yes I am lazy :P

Cheers
Pete

Yes. Have you even seen a resistance chart for a voice coil? If not check out the hertz web site and download on of there subs pdf. On the pdf they will hav the resistance chart on the 1st page. Usually around the 20kHz mark the resistance can be as much as 100ohm.

Of course power will decrease. Your 2x 150WRMS will be powering it at about 250WRMS in bridge mode. Your 800W amp will give you about 100WRMS I think. I would get in there in and wire you coils in parallel for 2ohm to get some power into it.

Yes. Have you even seen a resistance chart for a voice coil? If not check out the hertz web site and download on of there subs pdf. On the pdf they will hav the resistance chart on the 1st page. Usually around the 20kHz mark the resistance can be as much as 100ohm.

Of course power will decrease. Your 2x 150WRMS will be powering it at about 250WRMS in bridge mode. Your 800W amp will give you about 100WRMS I think. I would get in there in and wire you coils in parallel for 2ohm to get some power into it.

I wasn't worried so much about power, but wired it in 8ohms to try to get a bit nicer sound out of it as it is a Response 12" Carbon sub, so good value for money but not the best in the world.
In 4 ohms the guy at Tonkins said it would probably go louder but it would loose a bit of control.
If this 800W amp works though I will be wiring it in 2 ohms.

You wont have any problems, the only issue you have is when you load it down, not up.

You could run it at 16ohm, the only difference is; it will have more control of the cone, and less power output.

(damping factor doubles)

Control of the moving mass is increased, but headroom is reduced,

go for it.

ok next question...

It has 2 outputs... A (+ and -) and B (+ and -). Yet it is a monoblock amp...

So how do I wire my sub up? The sub box only has a single standard + and - terminal block on it as the wiring for the voice coils is all done inside...

Right now I am assuming i could just use output A.

read ur manual, it will switch the bridging automatically inside, but it will be something as simple as that.

ok next question...

It has 2 outputs... A (+ and -) and B (+ and -). Yet it is a monoblock amp...

So how do I wire my sub up? The sub box only has a single standard + and - terminal block on it as the wiring for the voice coils is all done inside...

Right now I am assuming i could just use output A.


both outputs are actual only one!!!

it's not a seperate channel!

so just pick a + and a - and go nuts

the dual terminals are added for wiring ease, for idiots like me who are runnin 50 subs or similar, but even still im only using one terminal atm cos i need more wire, damn it 4 stoopid subs.... im using 14g skinny as wire but i have 8g wire setup just need a few meters more than i can toss the skinny stuff run some more power and fry the subs lol

when you guys drive with these big sound systems, like 1 kW + systems in your cars, does your head lights flicker at night? and does it make your car run slower from all the added current draw from battery/alternator?

when you guys drive with these big sound systems, like 1 kW + systems in your cars, does your head lights flicker at night? and does it make your car run slower from all the added current draw from battery/alternator?

no, it did when i had a crappy battery and skinny wires, now it's 100% fine light still dim but only a tiny bit, just like a normal car would if you turned on the a/c or something


slower?

nope

when you guys drive with these big sound systems, like 1 kW + systems in your cars, does your head lights flicker at night? and does it make your car run slower from all the added current draw from battery/alternator?
As Andrewd said, in my TR it affected my idle, would idle a little low when i had the volume up loud, but other than that a good battery/atlernator/wire combo should eliminate all if not most of that stuff, unless you're physically pulling too much current for your setup to handle.

read ur manual, it will switch the bridging automatically inside, but it will be something as simple as that.

I don't have a manual as I bought it off of eBay faulty :(

I hooked it up to channel A and its working fine! :D:D:D

Not a bad buy if you ask me... $37 including postage for a 800Wrms monoblock and I got the part for free (FET driver IC) cause I ordered some samples form the manufacturer overseas lol