Im turning my humble tj 2001 magna into a projct car, mainly built for speed.

Stock it has 155 kw, i want to aim for 200, it may sound like alot but i think its achievable.

so far im thinking th following things to do:

(all parts at mid range budget (not top top, but not cheap sh#t either))


>> 3.5" exhaust system, lukey mufflers 2x, cat, extractors
>> Cold air intake, intake manifold
>> ECU re-map, auto gear -make it rev higher, like holdens PWR button.

>> Now heres something most of you might not have heard of, Electric supercharger!!

as i am on my red p's, i want to keep a low profile on forced air induction, as im not allowed
The electric supercharger is about $600, runs at about 3psi and is simply bolt-on and connects to battery. might get it off ebay or some american website.

EDIT: no ebay links here.

i might get two of those, total 6psi, $1.2k



now please can somone tell me that i can gt 200kw+ with all those mods?

I WANA CHOP HOLDENS!!!

leave the electric blowers to vacuum cleaners and leaf blowers man. :bowrofl: save your money!

you'll need an aftermarket replacement or piggy back ECU as the mitsi ECUs haven't been hacked (except for one).

200kw NA is a big ask. you'll have to crack the engine and throw in some cams and pistons, advance the timing via the aftermarket ECU and you might get there.

cheers,
.wook

o/s TB, CAI, Miniceptor, intake manifold, stage 1 cams and cam gears, transmission cooler, will get you to about 190 ish some with some extra timing maybe few more minor mods you will do it.

Mike

PS: if you had a manual it would be so much easier!

Edit: the figure i provided is at your flywheel! around 145 ATW

well let me be the first to say lol

its not "easy" to just pull 200kw out of a magna. and i am thinking you mean 200 atw and stock 155 at the fly.

firstly the electronic charger is ye pice of crap. if you want to pull 200 or close to that or more then that you will be in for a fair bit of spending.

sprintex make super charger bolt on kits for magnas which sees you around 140-160kw atw and then ppl go the extra and get a new piggy back eco put in and tuned along with exhaust mods like extractors and full exhaust.

these topics have been covered many on times where new members come in telling us what they want to get out of their magna power wise and alot of helpful suggestions are posted up so if you search you will find answers to your question.

but all this wont be cheap

Im turning my humble tj 2001 magna into a projct car, mainly built for speed.

Stock it has 155 kw, i want to aim for 200, it may sound like alot but i think its achievable.

so far im thinking th following things to do:

(all parts at mid range budget (not top top, but not cheap sh#t either))


>> 3.5" exhaust system, lukey mufflers 2x, cat, extractors
>> Cold air intake, intake manifold
>> ECU re-map, auto gear -make it rev higher, like holdens PWR button.

>> Now heres something most of you might not have heard of, Electric supercharger!!

as i am on my red p's, i want to keep a low profile on forced air induction, as im not allowed
The electric supercharger is about $600, runs at about 3psi and is simply bolt-on and connects to battery. might get it off ebay or some american website.

EDIT: no ebay links here.

i might get two of those, total 6psi, $1.2k


ow please can somone tell me that i can gt 200kw+ with all those mods?

I WANA CHOP HOLDENS!!!

Get 10 and get 30psi!!!!

Seriously, don't even bother with your automatic. Your losing in conversion losses and weight. Sell your car and get a manual, or do a manual conversion.

Do small mods you can reuse later, ie muffler first, then extractors, high flow exhaust, highflow filter. Then see how you feel about getting more power from your magna. Even at 200kw your automatic probably wouldnt worry many commodores.

Sorry to spoil your (pipe) dreams :confused:

AHHH hahahahahahaha


permban!!! ?

lol

save you hard earned for mods that actualy fo work, like leafblowers, use the search button!!

cams heads custom tune and 200kw is easy and without a pc fan in sight!!

we are talking 200kw at the Flywheel here, at the wheels, you need 10k to get that power!

zomg bro like seriously, chuck like some vyss rims on from like your cousins VL and like a big intercooler, just cable tied bro it will be like seriously sick! then ad like some v power racing petrol bro, a like 5 inch cannon and seriously like sik, you will have at least 210kw at the rears bro, like seriously thats sick as



:doubt:

ohh almost forgot!!

if you get an electric s/c you need a capacitator, but not any cap

you need a flux capacitator cos when you hit 88mph...... well just watch back to the future for the research on that one :p

Im turning my humble tj 2001 magna into a projct car, mainly built for speed.

Stock it has 155 kw, i want to aim for 200, it may sound like alot but i think its achievable.

so far im thinking th following things to do:

(all parts at mid range budget (not top top, but not cheap sh#t either))


>> 3.5" exhaust system, lukey mufflers 2x, cat, extractors
>> Cold air intake, intake manifold
>> ECU re-map, auto gear -make it rev higher, like holdens PWR button.

>> Now heres something most of you might not have heard of, Electric supercharger!!

as i am on my red p's, i want to keep a low profile on forced air induction, as im not allowed
The electric supercharger is about $600, runs at about 3psi and is simply bolt-on and connects to battery. might get it off ebay or some american website.

EDIT: no ebay links here.

i might get two of those, total 6psi, $1.2k



now please can somone tell me that i can gt 200kw+ with all those mods?

I WANA CHOP HOLDENS!!!

Sigh. Do some research before you run around making stupid claims.

3.5" exhaust? are you kidding me? That's the sort of size you see on cars with 300+ kw at the wheels. For our magnas 2.5" is fine, 3" if you are going to do fairly extensive n/a work or a FI setup.

I'm sick of seeing threads here about these electric superchargers. They simply don't do anything, basic physics will tell you. For starters, the amount of energy required to drive a small supercharger would need your car to have about 10 alternators.

Realistically with 2.5" exhaust, extractors, CAI, retune and manifold, you aren't likely to get near 200kw, though, you will gain a decent amount of midrange power.

With our magnas the cam profile really limits top end power. Ontop of the already mentioned mods, this is what you need to be looking at to make 200kw+ at the flywheel. Even then you'll probably only be about as fast a stock manual TJ, with that slushbox of yours.

Users like you make everyone else on AMC look bad.

Andrewd is right....

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=28

You'll find the items you need here.

Christ I hate these threads.

They instill many lulz, especially with the 'electric supercharger' comment...

One person disses OP...

Another person disses OP...

OP gets ****ty with everyone in thread...

Three more people continue the fight with OP...

OP leaves, vowing never to come back, we're all jerks etc.

"Tied to a standard 5-speed manual gearbox, the TJ Sports can blast to 100 km/h in the low 7s. Fast? You bet! At the time, the TJ Sports manual was quicker than a Ford XR6, XR8 and supercharged Holden Commodore V6 – even the HSV XU6 version! Throttle response in the manual gearbox 163kW Sports is also nothing short of astounding - it's the sharpest we’ve experienced in a production car." quote from http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2669/article.html

according to this you can already beat holdens and fords anyways with just a few mods to make ur exec like a sports???

Flame me for bein noob but its what i read!

"Tied to a standard 5-speed manual gearbox, the TJ Sports can blast to 100 km/h in the low 7s. Fast? You bet! At the time, the TJ Sports manual was quicker than a Ford XR6, XR8 and supercharged Holden Commodore V6 – even the HSV XU6 version! Throttle response in the manual gearbox 163kW Sports is also nothing short of astounding - it's the sharpest we’ve experienced in a production car." quote from http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2669/article.html

according to this you can already beat holdens and fords anyways with just a few mods to make ur exec like a sports???

Flame me for bein noob but its what i read!

sounds good, so maybe he spends his coin on a manual conversion!!!

ohh and OP magnas dont need a power button lol ahhha hahahaha :bowrofl: why make a std 3.8L commo rev out more when they dont rev and it's useless taking them to the redline anyway hahahaha... mitsubishis have invecs II it does away with the need for poffy buttons thats fuzzy logic for ya!

sell your car and get a manual. that alone will knock close to half a second off your 1/4 mile time, if you can drive.

200kw out of a magna seems to be the same as 250 or 300kw out of a skyline. people want it cause it sounds high. they just want the number.

200kw out of a magna seems to be the same as 250 or 300kw out of a skyline. people want it cause it sounds high. they just want the number.

I want it 'cause I'm sick of Evos and Skylines taking off up the straight after I've caught them in the twisty bits. lol

maybe a new 'box would help with that :think:

cheers,
.wook

"Tied to a standard 5-speed manual gearbox, the TJ Sports can blast to 100 km/h in the low 7s. Fast? You bet! At the time, the TJ Sports manual was quicker than a Ford XR6, XR8 and supercharged Holden Commodore V6 – even the HSV XU6 version! Throttle response in the manual gearbox 163kW Sports is also nothing short of astounding - it's the sharpest we’ve experienced in a production car." quote from http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2669/article.html

according to this you can already beat holdens and fords anyways with just a few mods to make ur exec like a sports???

Flame me for bein noob but its what i read!

At the time of Print... Which was 7 years ago now, when the TJ's first came out. Commodores and Falcons have gotten a lot Beefier since then.

I want it 'cause I'm sick of Evos and Skylines taking off up the straight after I've caught them in the twisty bits.
i think they need better drivers then, LOL. they should rip you in the twisty bits as well as the straights. but hey if you can catch them in the twisty bits, good stuff.

i think they need better drivers then, LOL. they should rip you in the twisty bits as well as the straights. but hey if you can catch them in the twisty bits, good stuff.
nah man, there's only a few street cars that get away from me in the twisties, especially after the practice I had with Dan. I lose time coming onto the straights (mainly because of the 'box not shifting into 1st), and that's where most of the more powerful cars drop me.

so I need either a different 'box or more power. more power is the cheaper option for me at this stage, as I wouldn't put in a manual box without an LSD, and I have already got all I need to play with the tune.

cheers,
.wook

dude Manual box with limo diff

and you'll shave a second off you 1/4mile times!!!

no to mention that you can use the gear that you want to when you want to!!

want to take off in 4th? NO well you can anyway


dude seriously 4spd auto? on the track? why? a manual conversion would ne cheaper than modding the box, better for the track (i'll bet that a well driven std manual would lap faster... correct?)

not having a dig i'd love my s/c back..... but immagine the manual.....WOW!!! you'd seriously haul some serious 4rse!

and the gear ratios are much better in the 4spd auto too.... you'd go from a nid to high 14 to a high 13 if you launch well and are handy with a stick ;)

do it NOW best 1k you'll spend on mods ever!


thank me later!

ohh and while your at it throw in a little tune and see another 20kw atw, be sensible though and learn from our mistakes! keep it rich over 5k

yeah the shorter gear ratios of the manual would mean that you could use 2nd gear out of the corners, which would pick you up a fair bit of time

Why the negativity for people???

I say Go for it man, I reckon you could go faster than my XR8!!! Make sure you show us your progress with plenty of photos and dyno sheets to back up what you saying.

GOOD STUFF! :D

Don't waste your money on a auto magna, been there done that!

If your not happy with it's current power sell up and buy something alse, I can tell you from experience that if you spend 5000 on it a stock manual magna will still be quicker

:stoopid:

ok who sent the amc link to the rta to give to magna p platers.

ok who sent the amc link to the rta to give to magna p platers.

I dont get it...

Firstly all you guys bagging out this guy should take note that you were a newb once too. There is so much crap out there that claim stupid amounts of power increase it would be hard for the non-mechanically minded to understand.

Now for what the OP asked, 200kw isn't impossible, but if you're looking at a cheap power gain you can forget it.
To get 200kw the least you will need is stage 1 possibly 2 cams, maybe even higher compression (pistons, rings etc.), 3" would be enough, 3.5" is way too big, exhaust, high flow cat, CAI, Smoothed throttle body, extractors, some sort of new intake manifold (do a search for EZBOY's current project), proper tune with an aftermarket ecu/piggyback. Even then you're really pushing it. A manual conversion will definitely see much higher gains.

At the time of Print... Which was 7 years ago now, when the TJ's first came out. Commodores and Falcons have gotten a lot Beefier since then.
lol so you're finally admitting defeat to the failboat? :P

ok who sent the amc link to the rta to give to magna p platers.


umm.....what?

seems like as soon as guys who own magnas get their P's they come on here with humerous threads about getting outrageous power for their budget these days

Firstly all you guys bagging out this guy should take note that you were a newb once too. There is so much crap out there that claim stupid amounts of power increase it would be hard for the non-mechanically minded to understand.

Now for what the OP asked, 200kw isn't impossible, but if you're looking at a cheap power gain you can forget it.
To get 200kw the least you will need is stage 1 possibly 2 cams, maybe even higher compression (pistons, rings etc.), 3" would be enough, 3.5" is way too big, exhaust, high flow cat, CAI, Smoothed throttle body, extractors, some sort of new intake manifold (do a search for EZBOY's current project), proper tune with an aftermarket ecu/piggyback. Even then you're really pushing it. A manual conversion will definitely see much higher gains.

Mate i think you will find that the OP is actually taking the piss out of magnas, and if he is dead serious then god help us lol

Lets just say what ever you do isnt easy..

Going bolt on blower is the easiest way..

Doing it NA is the hard way. it will take your car to a whole new level. will not be cheap..

Just to give you a idea..

Mine is still not 100% and i have about 220kw at the fly NA.. makes it a complete differant car. not a normal car anymore.. cost me nearly $10k too


Good luck with it..

Firstly all you guys bagging out this guy should take note that you were a newb once too. There is so much crap out there that claim stupid amounts of power increase it would be hard for the non-mechanically minded to understand.

Now for what the OP asked, 200kw isn't impossible, but if you're looking at a cheap power gain you can forget it.
To get 200kw the least you will need is stage 1 possibly 2 cams, maybe even higher compression (pistons, rings etc.), 3" would be enough, 3.5" is way too big, exhaust, high flow cat, CAI, Smoothed throttle body, extractors, some sort of new intake manifold (do a search for EZBOY's current project), proper tune with an aftermarket ecu/piggyback. Even then you're really pushing it. A manual conversion will definitely see much higher gains.

Thank you M4DDOG. I was going to post this also, but you beat me to it. All you guys bagging him for having high aims and wanting to try things are giving me the ****s. Pull your bloody heads out of your ****s. You were all noobs before, even i was. If you have nothing helpful to say then dont bother posting. We all have alot more experience, so make good use of it and help others, instead of putting off new members. Some of you say that people like him make AMC look bad... i say, its people that bag others that do. Grow up!

Now, just to give you an idea Drago98. Not saying i have a powerhouse, coz i dont, but i can only talk about the mods i have made and the power i have now.
Mods i did are:

CAI
High FLowed Throttle Body
2.5" Exhaust system with straight through Berklee Mufflers & HotDog
Converted to Manual
= 181.5HP at the wheels. (around 135KW)

Sigh. Do some research before you run around making stupid claims.

I'm sick of seeing threads here about these electric superchargers.

Users like you make everyone else on AMC look bad.

Thats NOT the kind of attitude we need on here. Make a polite point, why go off?

I tried to find some video's of cars doing runs with these e superchargers but all i could find was people crushing cans with them :nuts:

Id like to see stock times vs e charger times. I bet they will drain your battery pretty damn fast too.

Thats NOT the kind of attitude we need on here. Make a polite point, why go off?

I liked it. Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeverybody's thinkin' it. He just said it.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50905

This thread here is the reason why people disrespect noobs.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50905

This thread here is the reason why people disrespect noobs.

Thats hillarious, "Big W have it, its next to the flux capacitors" :bowrofl:

dude Manual box with limo diff

and you'll shave a second off you 1/4mile times!!!

no to mention that you can use the gear that you want to when you want to!!

want to take off in 4th? NO well you can anyway


dude seriously 4spd auto? on the track? why? a manual conversion would ne cheaper than modding the box, better for the track (i'll bet that a well driven std manual would lap faster... correct?)

not having a dig i'd love my s/c back..... but immagine the manual.....WOW!!! you'd seriously haul some serious 4rse!

and the gear ratios are much better in the 4spd auto too.... you'd go from a nid to high 14 to a high 13 if you launch well and are handy with a stick ;)

do it NOW best 1k you'll spend on mods ever!


thank me later!

yeah, I know all the positives. it IS on the list of things to do, but like I said, I wouldn't do it without a decent LSD (~$2000 installed) and a decent manual 'box will run me about another $1000, so $3k, not $1k.


ohh and while your at it throw in a little tune and see another 20kw atw, be sensible though and learn from our mistakes! keep it rich over 5k

see, I already have all the goodies needed to tune my sc. I've had the SMT6 for about 2 months and the cable showed up on Friday. so, spend $3k for the 'box/LSD, or another $500 for a few hours on the dyno?? not much of a choice, really.

so that's the secret, huh? I've talked to my tuner about cylinders 5 and 6 leaning out because of the placement of the 7th injector. I will pass on this info and hopefully not pop any cylinders. not really interested in a rebuild a la Jase and Sports.

cheers,
.wook

so that's the secret, huh? I've talked to my tuner about cylinders 5 and 6 leaning out because of the placement of the 7th injector. I will pass on this info and hopefully not pop any cylinders. not really interested in a rebuild a la Jase and Sports.

cheers,
.wook

on my car it was cyl 2 that let go 1st! then fixed with a new plug then 4 let go fixed with new plug then car was rough then 6 let go but it was too far gone.... then when i did a comp test 4 & 6 were the completely buggered cyls


basically the whole front bank, the rear bank 1 3 5 cyl were 100% fine!

i believe sptintex set the tune rich for a reason, and after talking to a few ppl in the know, it's a fuel distribution problem some cyls running richer than others, possibly due to design of the inlet manifold (I'm thinking that little internal wall is to high and at high velocity the air follows the easiest path and docent like to take the sharp bend causing more O2 in the front bank than the rear? (ask heathyoung, hes a smart guy he should know something about that)

also mentioned by the tuners, 6.5psi don't need a whole forged setup inside there, so really it comes down to the tune run it a lil bit richer in the top end and the cyl temps should be a lil cooler too.... i doubt i would have killed mine if the Afr was 12:1 over 5000 vs the flat 14.7:1 it was all the way


also ask CITTRIS his was the 1st sprintex re tuned, but using a unichip on top of what was already there, any way he has had his the longest and i believe he hasnt cracked any pistons!!! he might know the key ;) also sprintex my be helpful, I'm sure the old guy (forgot his name.... wasn't Steve) would be able to help you out, he was very good with the repair on my s/c when i sent it to him, with all their r&d they surely would know a trick or two

At high airflow the air follows the top cover - it doesn't flow how you would expect it to, thats for sure...

The supplied ECU reads intake air temperature and pressure, and adjusts the ignition retard (by intercepting the crank angle sensor position) and also reads the 02 sensor output (keeps an eye on mixtures). It also drives the 7th injector to provide additional fuelling.

BUT - the only way around the fuel distribution problems is to mess with the standard injectors - depending on how much scope there is in the standard maps, this could be achieved by adjusting the load points OR using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (crude, think black tailpipe/bumper bar skylines and 180/200sx's) OR extending the injector pulse width at the injectors themselves (using something like Jaycars digital pulse width adjuster, fed with a map sensor for load input, intercept the injectors with each injector being diode multiplexed into the input, and using the output (each injector would be enabled by their own pulse) to drive the injectors. Just MAP would be crude 1D mapping, but better than a RRFPR still...

how does the supplied ecu read mixtures when the stock o2 sensor is a narrowband. it reads lean above 15:1 and rich below 14:1. it isn't a wideband that can accurately read the afr. even the stock ecu only reads it at low load (cruising). at medium to high load it pretty much ignores it. if you unplug your o2 sensor and drive around your cruise afr's will be richer, but once you floor it they will be exactly the same with or without the sensor. i had a lend of a mates wideband sensor 1 day and was playing around with it and tried it with and without the stock sensor plugged in.

No idea, but it is connected to the oxygen sensor.

SMT6 actually has a lambda mode to maintain mixtures, how it is being utilised in this situation is somewhat of a mystery.

At high airflow the air follows the top cover - it doesn't flow how you would expect it to, thats for sure...

The supplied ECU reads intake air temperature and pressure, and adjusts the ignition retard (by intercepting the crank angle sensor position) and also reads the 02 sensor output (keeps an eye on mixtures). It also drives the 7th injector to provide additional fuelling.

BUT - the only way around the fuel distribution problems is to mess with the standard injectors - depending on how much scope there is in the standard maps, this could be achieved by adjusting the load points OR using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (crude, think black tailpipe/bumper bar skylines and 180/200sx's) OR extending the injector pulse width at the injectors themselves (using something like Jaycars digital pulse width adjuster, fed with a map sensor for load input, intercept the injectors with each injector being diode multiplexed into the input, and using the output (each injector would be enabled by their own pulse) to drive the injectors. Just MAP would be crude 1D mapping, but better than a RRFPR still...

flew straight over the top of my head with about 200kw of power...

No idea, but it is connected to the oxygen sensor.

SMT6 actually has a lambda mode to maintain mixtures, how it is being utilised in this situation is somewhat of a mystery.
did it have a second sensor put in? otherwise some ecu's have an anologue output, where you change the factory o2 sensor to a wideband, then it will put out a narrowband signal to the standard ecu.

No - piggyback off the standard Narrowband 02 sensor. Not an intercept.

o..........k

i don't know how they get that to work becuase the standard narrowband only has 3 outputs. below 14.0 it reads rich, between 14 and 15 it reads stoich, and above 15 it reads rich. it'd say it is probably a closed loop system the same as the stock ecu uses, where it only works on low load, and then when it gets more load it goes into open loop. i know that most other aftermarket ecu's will allow closed loop mapping but that requires a wideband, cause thats how i setup my mates emanage ultimate on his r33 until i got around to putting a proper tune on it.

if it is running full closed loop off the stock o2 sensor i'd love to know how.