my recently aquired tr seems not to like 1st gear. takes off in second and very sluggish as you would expect. help??
p.s. what is the specified transmission fluid for the tr-ts. might as well service it while I am there

my recently aquired tr seems not to like 1st gear. takes off in second and very sluggish as you would expect. help??

you sure it's taking off in second and not just out of timing and not very quick in 1st?

What happens if you floor it?

Ollie

The fluid that any Mitsu spares place carries will do. You're after part no. MI-MD922838.

Either that, or Castrol TQMS-T.

you are best to use the mitsubishi tranny oil as above it is the cheapest

if the auto is slugish
I would look at tuning your engine
the TPS or the TCU
service tranny ... oil and filter

TCUs in the TRs do have problems

I just got some Mitsubishi trans fluid for TS which is the Sp111
Cost was $28 trade for 5 litre
Dont know what it is retail..............

thanks for the replies. 1st, I am a youngish 65 year old bloke and I have been punting cars around for about 47 of those years. Oh and disecting them for about the same length of time. 2nd, the magna tranny is a 4 speed? mine acts like a 3 speed. Opilot87. If I floor it, it just makes a bit more noise and says "you talking to me?" Suicide on some intersections, have to wait til I can see a 1/2 click of clear road before I move. If I give it some stick on the road at better than 20k, it picks up and runs ok. Does not like to kick down though.
Surfer and Verada beast, Thanks for the advice on trans fluid.
Magna Buff, can I put the TCU out of a TS in my TR? If yes, where is it located, under the passenger seat or somewhere else?
And could someone tell me what is missing out of Castrol TQMS-T fluid that is found in the Mitsi fluid. Something that can be added?
and just to stir the pot a little, is 10w 40 good enough for a TR which has done over 200.000ks

Sounds like there may be a electrical problem somewhere, maybe the tranny is not getting the shift to 1st gear signal???

With regards to your oil statement, probabyl stirring the pot a little. The other day I went to get some oil for my TS (165,000km), and I dont mind payign for the best for my car, especially as I drive it pretty hard. Anyway I got some 5-50w fully synthetic Mobil 1 oil from the shelf, until one of the guys there started questioning me. Ive only really ever payed attention to the 2nd number in the viscosity, as that is the viscosity when it warms up. I thought a lower 1st number would just be better for oil flow at start up. However this guy was like that is waaayyy to thin for an engine that old, you need at least 20-something. I ended up getting a cheaper 15-50w shell helix plus oil, because all the proper synthetics had a low cold viscosity.

What to people reckon about this??? He also tried to recommend Penrite, which I think is a good oil, but the oil for HPR 15 is 15-60, which with the 60 I think is too thick, and even tried to get me to buy the HPR 30 which is 20-70! Isnt 70 wayy to thick for all but the most old worn to the ground engines???

Sorry to hijack the thread....

Ollie

Funny this should come up. I've been working away at my old TCU, took it for a drive today and it was incredibly sluggish. I have reason to believe it's the capacitor dead centre of the TCU shorting as when I took it back out and checked it, one of the chips along with the capacitor were burning to the touch and had a strong smell of burnt plastic. On swapping my second TCU back in, all was well.

Long story short, it could just be your TCU on it's way out.

Hey opilot87, you're right that 5W50 provides better oil flow @ startup. Buy the guys questioning you @ the shops are mistaken about the 5W being too thin & bad though.

Remember, 5W50 indicates the stability of the oil viscosity across a temp range. So while 5W50 and 15W50 has the same low viscosity @ working temperature. 5W50 would be near at that operating viscosity when you start the engine while 15W50 need a few minutes for the engine to warm up in order to get there. 5W50 is a very stable oil and its viscosity won't be affected as much by change in temp.

15W50 is a less stable oil & provides less cold start protection for your engine, it is more affected by temp & that allows it to be broken down and oxidised faster at high temp making it a shorter lived oil - ultimately cheaper & lower quality oil.

Hope that helps.

Magna buff, I have misled you. my ride is TR 2.6 astron motor. the spare parts car is TS 2.6 Astron motor engine in good nick but valve timing lost. No damage yet. Thanks for the oil tip and where can I get the additive you mentioned plus what is it called?
Magna91, as soon as I find out if the two TCUs are compatible, I will be swapping them. If nothing else, it will show if the problem lies in the TCU. thanks for your input

The switch that sits behind the accelerator pedal.

At idle (when accelerator is released) this switch should be contacting, and this tells the TCU to put the gear into second when you stop at lights. This is to try and reduce the heavy vibrations of the 2.6 Astron engine at idle when it's under load (in D for instance). When you touch the accelerator to move off, the switch releases and the gearbox instantly drops down to first to get moving. Obviously if the switch is out of adjustment or has failed, then the car won't drop to first and will constantly try to take off in second.

I've had the same problem many times ;)

The thing is though, and I'm probably wrong, but as far as I know, only KR sedans and wagons got the 2nd gear selection switch.

Yeh the tcu is under the heater box behind the dash......

Cheers dean...

Magna buff, I have misled you. my ride is TR 2.6 astron motor. the spare parts car is TS 2.6 Astron motor engine in good nick but valve timing lost. No damage yet. Thanks for the oil tip and where can I get the additive you mentioned plus what is it called?
Magna91, as soon as I find out if the two TCUs are compatible, I will be swapping them. If nothing else, it will show if the problem lies in the TCU. thanks for your input

TCU info .........

location
Yeh the tcu is under the heater box behind the dash......

Cheers dean...

as long as both boxes are the same serial number or plug into the loom ok

F4A33-1-MPN1: 25 teeth splined driveshafts, used in 4 cylinder models
F4A33-1-MPP1/2: 27 teeth splined driveshafts, used in 4 cylinder models
F4A33-1-MPQ2: 27 teeth splined drive shafts, special transaxle control unit, used in 4 cylinder models

Castrol TQMS-T : Castrol TQM-ST conforms with the characteristics of Mitsubishi SPII, SP2M, and SP III Automatic Transmission Fluid requirements. ::::you can use that castrol


the additive ::name /brand/supplier / ?? dont know I didnt buy it
someone else did and showed it to me
small bottle approx 60 mls claims to protect drive and friction plates ::not important

is 10w 40 good enough for a TR which has done over 200.000ks ::::Yes

Hey opilot87, you're right that 5W50 provides better oil flow @ startup. Buy the guys questioning you @ the shops are mistaken about the 5W being too thin & bad though.

Remember, 5W50 indicates the stability of the oil viscosity across a temp range. So while 5W50 and 15W50 has the same low viscosity @ working temperature. 5W50 would be near at that operating viscosity when you start the engine while 15W50 need a few minutes for the engine to warm up in order to get there. 5W50 is a very stable oil and its viscosity won't be affected as much by change in temp.

15W50 is a less stable oil & provides less cold start protection for your engine, it is more affected by temp & that allows it to be broken down and oxidised faster at high temp making it a shorter lived oil - ultimately cheaper & lower quality oil.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the input, thats pretty much what I used to believe, but he kinda seemed to knwo what he was talking about, saying he used to have a magna and used that mobi lstuff and he could hear by the lifters it was too noisy. But then he also went on about oil brands 'bedding in over time, and especially castrol it wasnt always good to switch, which I thought was a bit b/s. I just came out of there totally confused.

Also heard however, that having an oil with a big viscosity difference between cold and hot viscosity, will break down earlier. Although this might be true, I think that with a very high quality synthetic oil like Mobil 1, this is not a problem, and also as synthetic lasts much longer, and I change my oil every 5000km, it wont be a problem.

Ollie

Just had a look in my TR (and i'm not sure if this is specific to the TR/TS or standard position across the range), yes it's under the heater box, I suppose, for specifics it's actually inside the centre console at the very bottom. You can get to it by removing the centre console and the side pieces, then lift away the corner of the carpet in the passenger footwell. From there it's a gold box with 2 or 3 yellow plugs, can't miss it.

Really easy to test if a TCU is good is to simply sit the new one on some newspaper in the footwell, then just plug it in and take it for a test drive. If it's good, install it full time, if it's bad, then you just saved yourself 30 minutes of work installing it. lol

thanks again all for all the useful info.
Verada beast, like I said in my previous post, this car has been severely modified and it is at Verada or better specs. The first gear switch is there and seems to be operating as it should. It is a micro-switch with a metal tang protruding from it which makes contact with a hard rubber button at the top of the accelerator pedal when there is no pressure on the pedal and makes the same sound as other micro-switches I have come across. Clicks. Whether it is actually passing current to the TCU I am not sure. I will have to get a multi-meter cause there are a few minor electrical issues I want to look at such as my cruise control not functioning.

this will help

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=901

Hey opilot87, you're right that 5W50 provides better oil flow @ startup. Buy the guys questioning you @ the shops are mistaken about the 5W being too thin & bad though.

Remember, 5W50 indicates the stability of the oil viscosity across a temp range. So while 5W50 and 15W50 has the same low viscosity @ working temperature. 5W50 would be near at that operating viscosity when you start the engine while 15W50 need a few minutes for the engine to warm up in order to get there. 5W50 is a very stable oil and its viscosity won't be affected as much by change in temp.

15W50 is a less stable oil & provides less cold start protection for your engine, it is more affected by temp & that allows it to be broken down and oxidised faster at high temp making it a shorter lived oil - ultimately cheaper & lower quality oil.

Hope that helps.

That is total crap, listen to guys like this and ull be doing harm to ur motor, at over 200,000k's this knob recommends running an oil that is less then whats recommended for a brand new one of these......and saying that 15W50 is cheaper and less quality? you obvioulsy have no idea about cars, the reason they have different ratings is for different conditions/sizes and types of engines, the only thickness that reduces quality here is how thick ur head is to the quality of advice this guy should have received.
Now i know this reply is 2 years too late but for anyone who reads it in future reference do not listen to this fool, use a high quality Australian oil such as Penrite HPR 30-20W60, if you use a thin as piss oil like 5W50 at 200,000k's then expect low oil pressure, high wear at start up reduced engine life, do some research on oils for yourself and ull see what i mean, and i wouldnt be too concerned of oil breakdown if u service at 5000k intervals consistently, i would bring it down to 2000k's if u have taken the earlier advice, just til all them new metal shavings u have created inside ur motor have been removed.