Hi Guys,
I wacked on a Pod filter on my 3rd gen today, i used one of those adapter things and then just wacked on a normal round filter. But since i have put that on the car seems to be blowing a bit of black smoke.
Have i done something wrong with fitting it?
i dont see how i could because i didnt have to unplug anything. ANyway just seeing if anyone has any answers. If not ill just rip it off and put the standard filter stuff back in.

The normal round filters stuff something up in the magnas im not sure on the details, but if affects the airflow, im not sure if this is what is causing the black smoke though.

Disconnect the battery and let it realern the mixtures and see how it goes.

Black Smoke generally means its running a little rich, so maybe the new filter has either A) Knocked the mixtures out a little or B) You have a cactus o2 sensor

I would try reseting your ECU mate. Hope you got some form of cool air running to the pod otherwise it will just be sucking up a whole lot of hot engine bay air.

You will definitely need a K&N oval pod any other one will mess with the O2 sensor causing all kinds of probz one of them being black smoke and low idle issues, speak with megatron who can provide the correct pod filter for a good price!!

Good luck!!

i originally had one of those K&N extreme top pod filters with one of those $20 plastic adaptors from supercheap.. and my old TH ran perfect..

this time on the rada i decided to just fork out a little extra and bought the proper mitsi adaptor kit from K&N with pod and all.. like this one..

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=33840&d=1195458922

my front half of my air box was broken so i removed it all for now.. but will most likley be putting the front half and the bit that goes from the rad support to it back in to 'duct' cooler air towards the filter.. it most likley will make SFA difference.. but i can try..

Black smoke means it is running very rich (<10:1 Air:Fuel ratio). I would suggest that the pod filter fitted is having a swirling effect on the air before it passes thru the MAF sensor. The mitsubishi MAF sensor is a pretty picky beast and needs the air passing thru it to be as "straight" as possible, or it won't read correctly.

Apart from leaving you with a dirty mark on your rear bumper, and leaving you with pretty ****ty fuel economy - it shouldn't do any long term damage.

Black smoke means it is running very rich (<10:1 Air:Fuel ratio). I would suggest that the pod filter fitted is having a swirling effect on the air before it passes thru the MAF sensor. The mitsubishi MAF sensor is a pretty picky beast and needs the air passing thru it to be as "straight" as possible, or it won't read correctly.

Apart from leaving you with a dirty mark on your rear bumper, and leaving you with pretty ****ty fuel economy - it shouldn't do any long term damage.

Thats what i was trying to say.:bowrofl:

You have a cactus o2 sensor

Remember, the O2 only functions during lean cruise, when are you seeing the smoke OP?

Honestly, I don't know why people persist on using round pod filters, when they have proven to upset the airflow sensor:nuts:

If you are hell-bent on using a pod, get an oval one (even then it aint perfect, some people still report flat spots with it).

Oh yeah if it's unboxed/unshielded you are LOSING power.


You will definitely need a K&N oval pod any other one will mess with the O2 sensor causing all kinds of probz one of them being black smoke and low idle issues, speak with megatron who can provide the correct pod filter for a good price!!

Good luck!!

Wrong sensor, O2 is in the exhaust

If you continue to run excessively rich fuel mixtures you willl fuel wash the bore, that means the fuel will wash the oil from the bore and stuff it, you will end up needing new rings and a bore hone to fix, close to a rebuild... Not good!

Black smoke means it is running very rich (<10:1 Air:Fuel ratio). I would suggest that the pod filter fitted is having a swirling effect on the air before it passes thru the MAF sensor. The mitsubishi MAF sensor is a pretty picky beast and needs the air passing thru it to be as "straight" as possible, or it won't read correctly.

Apart from leaving you with a dirty mark on your rear bumper, and leaving you with pretty ****ty fuel economy - it shouldn't do any long term damage.

BB is on the money.

Running overly rich however, WILL mess up the O2 sensor, and perhaps accelerate deterioation of the CAT. Not sure what else runnning rich does in the long term, but it can't be good. Not to mention crap fuel economy and power.

FFS OP take the stupid thing off and make yourself a "drainpipe" CAI. Costs peanuts to make, and actually does something.

Well there you go.... There's a couple of very good reasons not to let your engine run excessively rich for long periods of time. :redface:

When I think of "rich" I think of about 11.5:1 AFR. Which is about where mine is for safety sake.

well you learn something new everyday... see i new i read forums like a lost sheep for a reaosn

Well, looks like i should take it off, i only put it on for a different sound, im not looking for any sort of performance gain. But by the looks of it i just threw $80 out the window haha, its all good, some commodore boy will want it. haha.

Pay the extra and get the ones for the magnas

sell that and you only have to pay the extra few bucks, otherwise you wasted your money.

Pay the extra and get the ones for the magnas

sell that and you only have to pay the extra few bucks, otherwise you wasted your money.

Spend the money on a K&N... you wont regret it!:D

can vouch for that K&N i put on mine (link to pic on first page) RPW sells them little pricey.. after ou add tax/shipping tax on shipping etc lol..

Yes, the oval K&N is the only way to go. Bolts straight on no probs. And if you get it from RPW they will make you a up nice little bracket to brace the pod and MAF sensor unit to the gearbox.

i got mine done few weeks ago, and it costs $155, plus time to install.

lol! i didn't get any bracket!! made my own :)

i used round pod on my TH with a CAI setup and so are a few other members and never had any problems with mine.

if the honeycomb is still intact in the maff that should get rid of the swirling air flow and straighten it up shouldnt it???

i used round pod on my TH with a CAI setup and so are a few other members and never had any problems with mine.

if the honeycomb is still intact in the maff that should get rid of the swirling air flow and straighten it up shouldnt it???

True true, I don't see how it would make a huge difference. Easy enough to tap into the o2 sensor at the ECU side and see if she's running rich or lean.

Best thing to do after doing a mod like this is the reset the ECU, take note with the TE and up model ECUs that they take ages to relearn how you drive etc, so you might notice some crazy gear changes and AFRs. :P

True true, I don't see how it would make a huge difference. Easy enough to tap into the o2 sensor at the ECU side and see if she's running rich or lean.

Best thing to do after doing a mod like this is the reset the ECU, take note with the TE and up model ECUs that they take ages to relearn how you drive etc, so you might notice some crazy gear changes and AFRs. :P

This may sound silly, but how do we reset the ECU on my TF? i read of people doing it all the time, but i never knew how. Is it just disconnecting the battery for a bit?

This may sound silly, but how do we reset the ECU on my TF? i read of people doing it all the time, but i never knew how. Is it just disconnecting the battery for a bit?

thats it.

Easy enough to tap into the o2 sensor at the ECU side and see if she's running rich or lean.

Narrow-band O2 sensors only work within a very narrow range (something like 14.0-15.0). You can't simply "tap into" it and check your AFRs. Their purpose is to help the ECU make small adjustments during lean cruise.

To do this you need to to install a wideband O2 sensor, or use one at a dyno.

Yesterday i reset the ecu thing you guys talk about, cleaned the exhaust tip, started her up and wholah, no black smoke. I drove it around all night last night, the exhaust tip is still shiny and there was no sluggish point in the car. Seems to me as though a normal pod filter can work on magnas. Or am i missing something?

Narrow-band O2 sensors only work within a very narrow range (something like 14.0-15.0). You can't simply "tap into" it and check your AFRs. Their purpose is to help the ECU make small adjustments during lean cruise.

To do this you need to to install a wideband O2 sensor, or use one at a dyno.

I agree, a wideband sensor is the way to go, but if you know what unit you're using you can look up the specs for it.

Most bosch sensors that we're using in our magna's have a optimal range of 300mv - 600mv, after that either way there's a huge fallout, whereas you don't have that with a wideband sensor.

You can still use the narrowband sensor to get an idea, you just need to know what readings are rich/lean.

33901

A wideband sensor would just have a straight diagonal line, meaning a more accurate reading.


Yesterday i reset the ecu thing you guys talk about, cleaned the exhaust tip, started her up and wholah, no black smoke. I drove it around all night last night, the exhaust tip is still shiny and there was no sluggish point in the car. Seems to me as though a normal pod filter can work on magnas. Or am i missing something?

Good to hear it's all good now. I don't see why normal pod filters wont work.

Sometimes it's just a matter of reseting what the computer thinks is hot/cold air etc. As it would dump more fuel in with colder air (snorkel). When I changed all mine out from CIA to pod it would jump in the rev range, was fine after I reset the ECU.