Now that I've repaired the cooling system, I've got a very slow leak over near the timing case. The leak shows up on the bottom bracket of the alternator, and there's some green on the outside of the bottom of the sump, but I don't think it's leaking that low, just spillage.

Any ideas on how to fix it, was going to try Chem-i-weld, but really should do it properly. Apart from that, the thing's running great.

it may be the gasket around the water jacket
where the waterpump would be if the motor was in a sigma

I think someone must have missed a bit of gasket on the block surface
or it shifted while it was fitting the timing cover on

they would have needed to seal that area with a lot of sealant

the chains may have been done before you got the car or it is corrosion

you may have to take the timing cover off to be sure

Never took the timing cover off, the leak's only visible now that the thing's running actual coolant, not water. It also may have only just come through after the crap got flushed out of the cooling system.

The thing doesn't have any chain rattle, so it could be either. Judging on the condition of the thermostat, and radiator, it's dollars to donuts that it's corroded out.

Go the chemi weld... works wonders!

Go the chemi weld... works wonders!
except when it corrodes the head like mine did :@

except when it corrodes the head like mine did :@
As I said, I was looking at Stop leak, but really should fix it properly if I can, as I've just spent a whole heap of time fixing the cooling system, to gum it back up. Hence why I'm dubious about the Chemiweld.

Gotta take the timing cover off to check another problem. Will fix it properly then.

Oil pump accessible without taking out the motor?

Might as well check the gaudes while you're at it. They may not need doing now but it will give you an idea when they'll need doing if you know when they were done last. :)

I used heaps of chemi weld trying to get lucky and bog up my cracked cylinder head.
Never came close to working. Better to spend the $7 on Lotto.

As I said, going to fix it up properly, as I need to remove the timing cover to check the oil pump and pressure relief valve, as the gauge is all over the shop, and there seems to be a problem with oil delivery up top. Will drop the sump too, to see if it's just crudded up. (The car has had some neglect, and was idle for a few months before I bought it, I'm using it fairly heavily, as well as changed the oil type used, so I may have upset the balance, as well as it's had two very long high speed runs recently)

Thanks for the pointer on the leak Buff, and I was going to look at the guides whilst I had it off, as well as decide if I wanna delete the Silent Shafts out of this motor. The chains are very quiet in this motor, so I'm not entirely sure if I should. Can that be done with the motor in?

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Oil pump accessible without taking out the motor?

yes gav
undo both side engine mounts so the motor tilts

you cant get the balance shafts out with the motor in

this will get you to the oil pump

Replacing timing chain with engine in. damo1000

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3172

Well, the good news is, I don't need to take the pump off, the problem is scum in the sump, and oil galleries, and everywhere else:rant:

Going to flush the engine tomorrow, recommended products?

Will still take the timing case off, reseal that hole, and find out why a 12 month old water pump's started leaking too. lol

If I ever hear somebody badmouthing corrosion inhibitors/antiboil, I will slap them.

Chemi Weld is a stop gap only when you have a car you need to keep going for a few weeks then intend to scrap.

I have just taken a motor out of a TP with Chemiweld and also Techalloy coolany, well near every alloy part is gone, the radiator is totally blocked as is the heater etc.

As for the timing cover, I remommend you remove the sump at least so you can re seal properly, and you will need to do this to get to the oil pick up anyway.

When i first got my wagon i had to replace the inlet manifold gasket as it was leaking coolant near the dissy. Ipulled off the manifold and the gasket had pretty much decintergrated. I read some where that this is a common problem. I also had a few drops come through the timing cover next to the alternator but this has resealed. I always check for leaks.

Cant remember its name but I tried some other chemi-weld type stuff that came in a clear bottle and had what looked like copper fillings settled to the bottom.
Another seven bucks that would have been better invested in Lotto!

there is one product I use qute often that you run with your coolant, it is called INOX, it is hard to get these days but will NOT block cores etc, it is more of a lubriacant for seals etc but also does have a sealing effect should you run into trouble,