Has anyone changed the stock 6x9's at the rear? I had a quick look today, seems there are plastic plugs you can push through from the boot to remove the covers and change the speaker. I dont see any wires from the boot which is different, must connect from the top or something. I was thinking (i think someone mentioned it in a thread) of adding a 4 chan amp through the rear speaker wires via high level in and adding the 6x9's and a sub onto it. It would really give the stock head unit a boost.

anyway .. anyone done it?

I think Seadevil has done some work with his audio setup (Rockford Fosgate). Might want to PM him.

Hi Fantaysia. i got your PM. thought i would respond here so everyone can read it.

I replaced my speakers (all rockford fosgate) and added a 4X100 W digital jaycar amp to the system.
I somehow managed to fit it under the passenger seat with power and audio cables coming through under the carpet. Im running cheap high-to-low audio converters as my amp doesnt support high in and the head unit has no low output :rant:

As for the rear speakers your right about the audio cable coming through at the top. However i just ran new cables through the side rails of the car to the rear and come through from underneath as per usual.

I found to fit the new 6x9's i had to bend the metal around the speaker just a little in order to fit, but once that was done the rears were easy. The front speakers are alot harder to work with. :rant:

I'm not running a sub at the moment as the boot is unusually small and awkward to fit a sub into.

The only issues i am currently facing is some static coming through, not bad enough to notice while playing music, but its noticable on the track change and quite songs. I believe this to be the causes of cheap converters.

I will post some pics of my install when i can find the photos again

Would you be kind enough to maybe write up a quick "how to" on changing the 6x9's? Any problems you faced?

heres the photos of my car audio install.

theres really nothing to installing new rear speakers....only had to bend the metal around the opening just a little to allow my new speakers to seat properly. You can see in the underside of the 6x9's the marks left by my pliers where i bent the metal back. The original speaker holes all lined up perfectly so it was a relatively easy task.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1121/3939918/18381145/290696176.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1121/3939918/18381145/290696182.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1121/3939918/18381145/290696183.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1121/3939918/18381145/290696187.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1121/3939918/18381145/290696202.jpg

looks great :) Any rattles from the larger speakers? I bet the treble is heaps clearer. I'll be picking up a couple of either Kenwood 3 ways or Pioneer 3 ways 6x9's from strathfields tomorrow. $64 for the kenny's and 84 for Pioneer ... bargain i'll buy which ever sounds best :P

ok i bought some pioneer 3 ways and they were easy as seadevil suggested to install :) Dude do you have any pics of the stock front speakers?

heres the original speakers.
Does anybody want the rear 6x9s? Im gonna chuck em out very soon if no one wants them.


http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1121/3939918/18381145/291149429.jpg\

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1121/3939918/18381145/291149430.jpg

If I get the Pioneer 3 ways -
1. do I still need a separate amp to drive them?
2. can i expect a big jump in sound quality?
3. should I also replace the door speakers as well?

The fosgates would be pretty expensive in comparison...?

you may need a seperate amp to drive them.....depending whether you have the intergrated audio system or the double din setup.

Im not sure about the sound quality as i had a dogdy front speaker when i got the car ( thus y i went and upgraded the system) but i would expect so. I must say the fosgate tweeters are awesome. I can hear every cymbal very clearly.

I would replace the door speakers as well just so your speakers all play at the same sound level and quality. Wait and see what fantaysia has to say about his

Thanks mate,

I've got the same car as you (VRX Series2) so I assume I have the integrated audio? so would mean I need an amp?

yes i would say so. I tried putting some pioneers on my car first with no amp and the head unit was not able to drive them. Had no bass at all....and i mean at all.

Did you try 300 watt Pioneers 6x9's, you need an amp there, Though you could try the smaller wattage 120w I think, the head deck will drive those boys. I couldn't find em on the website, but JB's have em.

Yeah i have the so called 300w (music power) 6x9's and i fitted one first so i could compare with the factory one. The most definate change is the clarity of the sound. The bass felt on par with the stocks. They would definately be better with an amp no doubt but for the $79 i paid .. i think its a good value upgrade to an already decent system. My front speakers are in perfect nick and i must say they are giving an incredible sound. One thing i have noticed is that the rear speakers arent given as much power as the fronts. Whether the impedance is lower at the front with the tweeters (not proper splits maybe) or whether the stereo is just setup that way. I have a set of pioneer splits sitting in my shed but i dont think i will change the factory ones until i get an amp as they are pretty bloody good as is. I would still like a sub so i think the next cheapest and best upgrade for me would be a 4 channel amp to boost the 6x9's and let me add a sub via high level inputs. Bottom line, if you havent changed your 6x9's DO IT because it will make a difference and its piss easy. Note i also had to bend the outer edge down a bit to fit plush. TIP: when you go to remove the rear speaker grills, use a washer that is slightly smaller than the plastic clip and you just push it over the end and it pops out easy.
Sorry for the novel i just wrote :)

I stand corrected, the 6x9 recommended to run off a H/U are the 300w and the bigger speakers are above 400w. I apoligize.
That said, great feedback there and a very worthwile spaker mod too. I will get that done however, I will Prolly put heatshrink over the pliers to make those bends.

That said, great feedback there and a very worthwile spaker mod too. I will get that done however, I will Prolly put heatshrink over the pliers to make those bends.

I used electrical tape on mine, the paint still flaked a bit for me unfortunately :)

[QUOTE=Fantaysia]Yeah i have the so called 300w (music power) 6x9's and i fitted one first so i could compare with the factory one.

Hi Fantaysia,

do you have a model number for the Pioneers?
I am interested in upgrading myself.

Is it these
TS-A6962E http://www.pioneer.com.au/files/products/me
http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-TS-A6962E-Car-Speakers-p/tsa6962e.htm

But JB is where I will get mine.

Is it these
TS-A6962E http://www.pioneer.com.au/files/products/me
http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-TS-A6962E-Car-Speakers-p/tsa6962e.htm

But JB is where I will get mine.

ouch please dont quote these as 300W speakers again!


300 Watts Max. Power Handling
40 Watts Nominal Rating

just a slight difference ;)

Is it these
TS-A6962E http://www.pioneer.com.au/files/products/me
http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-TS-A6962E-Car-Speakers-p/tsa6962e.htm

But JB is where I will get mine.

Yeah thats them :) I love the PMPO or music value figures .. and you get a salesperson fresh out of highschool saying .. "well i'd go the Sony's coz they are like 400w!" I would love to pump 400w of pure RMS power into every single Sony speaker on the market and see how full sik they sound!

I upgraded only to improve the clarity as the rears were/are dual cones.

Boys (ands ladies :)),

Always look at the rms figures,even then they dont mean all that mucn to be honest and only come into things once your pushing them hard with a amp and need to know how many watts you can put through them and how much gain etc without killing them etc

If anyone need to run speaker of of a head deck,the thing you need to look for is the "sensitivity" which is usually listed on the box with the rest of the bull**** specs as db/Wm (you should be looking for numnbers up around the 92db mark),all this number means is how efficient the speaker will turn electrical energy into sound energy,so obviously the higher the better when you are dealing headunit power,So when speaker shopping ask the fella to show you speakers with the above characteristics and you wont go wrong

Steve

hey seadevil, how did you go with taking out the front door trims? Is it hard? Iam upgrading my sound system and Iam putting in new splits and 6x9's and have bought a mono block amp for my 2 x 12" subs and a 6oow 4 channel for the speakers.

Hello All,

I purchased a set of Pioneer TS-A6962E and installed them last week (cost $80 at Autobarn).
I have noticed an improvement in clarity in the high end and mid range. The bass is also tighter which has allowed me to increase the bass on the head unit for an overall bassier sound and it takes more power before they distort (doof, doof).:2cool:

I am running the Pioneers off the factory head unit (no need for an amp yet). Their Efficiency is rated at 93 dB.

Six months ago I had tried a set of high powered MTX 6 x 9 s and found there was hardly any bass.
They had a much clearer high end and mid range but the factory speakers had a lot more bass. The head unit couldn't power them properly. This put me off replacing the speakers with anything else as I thought the head unit wouldn't cope. The Pioneers that you guys have recommended work extremly well.

A worth while upgrade and quite easy to install.

:thumbsup:Thanks for your help with this one.

Fitted today, very easy.
I compared the difference with one original and one pioneer, huge clarity gain. Now, I reckon I can live without an amp easy.
Thanks a heap Guys.
I really love this place.
Keep those mods coming.

P.S.
I found the female end of a 6mm Microphone/Headphone lead is the Best tool for removing the white clips in the boot holding the speaker grills on (like 5 seconds a side). Even has a handle.lol

Replaced mine with Jaycar CS2328's - fairly easy job thanks to the advice here.

Link to Jaycar's site (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=CS2328&CATID=15&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=609)

I used a 6mm socket from the trusty socket set and worked perfectly compressing the grill clips from underneath to remove the grills. I snipped off the connector blocks that plug in at the top of the speaker about one inch back from the connectors and soldered in the wiring that came with speakers (complete with external 12db/octave crossovers). Had to pull/stretch the factory wires out an inch or so with pliers, but easily done with no damage. Ran wire into boot through gap next to outboard seat belt reels.

Had to get some new self tapping screws from Bunnings as the factory hex-heads won't fit around the protective black surround on the front of the speaker (10G x 12mm I think).

Initial impressions - sounded VERY bright initially, and so efficient (93.5 db/W/m) they completely overshadowed the front factory splits. Fader one notch forward, bass one notch higher, treble one notch lower and MUCH better.

There was a small strip of black foam around underside edge of the factory speakers, possibly to better seal the boot cavity? Can anyone advise as to whether they think it would improve bass response by getting some from Clark rubber (or similar) and sticking it underneath the Jaycars?

After a week of use they seemed to improve their bass response and smooth out the tweeters (or I just got used to the sound). No dramas at all running them off the integrated audio in the GT.

Best $140 I have spent on this car to date - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!