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Magna91
08-12-2007, 11:55 PM
...I hope. :P Well now the drivetrain works, but i'd like to not only make it work but make it work well. So i'm looking to clear up 3 of the final problems and just need a pointer in the right direction with a couple of minor issues with each.

1. The engine is currently running 20w50 engine oil which does take some time to pump to the top of the motor at startup. I'm thinking of stepping down to 10w40, 10w50 or 15w60, but i'm not sure if using a lower viscosity would compromise long term reliability. Engine doesn't have any leaks and has been well maintained, i'm just hoping that if I back down that I won't lose it's reliability record for one reason or another.

2. I've been given the option to switch engine mounts as my current ones are completely stuffed. I can either replace with rubber mounts or I can go solid-steel, the latter is easier to obtain in my case, and at a lower price, plus they most likely won't break again. I understand the ride smoothness will be compromised, but if it's no lower a compromise than it is now (with 100% broken mounts), then i'm willing to go steel. Opinions? Anyone used them?

3. The motor makes a loud "ticking" noise while accelerating. We've tested it and concluded it's most likely an exhaust leak as the gasket between the block and exhaust seems pretty much stuffed, aka. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the factory stock. I can probably get this part easily enough, but is it best to have it fitted by an exhaust shop or can it be done at home with some effort? What would be the best option here?

Seems every week i'm posting another "Help with this" or "Opinions on that" thread... but I assure you, it's quickly progressing toward completion and it's really only these minor issues that need correcting, then it'll be mechanically sound. :)

Cheers

magna buff
09-12-2007, 01:00 AM
exhaust gasket can be done at home DIY *dont over tighten the stud nuts*

a steel type mount would be ok front and rear you need some rubber or you may crack a block if no flexibility is allowed

oil for the 4 cyl can be 10w40 or 20w50

TR 300000
09-12-2007, 08:03 AM
I'm using 15-40w in my 3.0. The manual calls for 10-40. The thicker the oil the more resistance inside your engine too. I understand that in the US manufacturers are started specifying 20w oils as it helps get there advertised fuel consumption figures down.

I'm no expert but I believe that thinner oils (down to 30w) can be used and may benefit older engines with clogged up oil galleries. I'm going to try 10-30w when winter comes.

veradabeast
09-12-2007, 09:38 AM
Driving a car with steel to steel mounts will be like driving a vibrator.

Magna91
09-12-2007, 04:14 PM
Cheers for the advice, I'll get to work on the oil first then, 10w40 seems to be the go. Exhaust gasket shortly after. Engine mounts may have to be done by a repairer as I don't really have a way to jack the engine up at home.

For the record it's already like driving a vibrator... stop at the lights and the dash shakes so fast it's a blur. lol I wouldn't mind that, but likewise I don't want to risk cracking the block so i'll just go ahead with half steel, half rubber.