I'm trying to find the access cover for the fuel pump so I can disconnect it (changing fuel filter). The Haynes manual says there will be an access cover on the left hand side but I can't find one anywhere. Could this connector be power supply to the fuel pump? It seems to lead to the top of the tank.

http://i14.tinypic.com/81slizo.jpg

The Haynes manual says the access cover will be in the back but I don't see it>

http://i3.tinypic.com/82uairn.jpg

Mine's a 96 model so they might have changed it for the last build runs?

It's at the back of the tank, underneath the car. Haynes like being cryptic lol

yur i think its similar to the sedan just look straight in the middle underneath

Thanks guys. This will be it then?

http://i6.tinypic.com/8e91maa.jpg

Spot on.

BTW thanks a lot for jumping in so fast with your assistance guys. It was FOUR minutes between posting my question and getting an answer. That has to bee some kind of a record.


ooooooooooooooo000000000000 - THANKS HEAPS - 00000000000000000oooooooooooo

Yeah but did you get to change the filter and the car is running sweet now?.

No joy I'm afraid. I got the banjo fitting off the top of the filter and got the bolts off at each side, but I couldn't get the filter of the fuel line. It was damn tight, and hard to get at. I had a 12mm spanner on the nut on the fuel line and a 19 (I think) on the welded on nut on the bottom of the filter, but I couldn't separate them. I got scared that I would twist/snap the fuel line so I backed out and put it all back together. I need to rethink.

Had heaps of bills lately so am reluctant to take it to the mech.

My goal with this car is to get it to drive smoothly. I think it's going to take me a while...:cry:

arnt most fuel fittings left hand thread?

(i know the fuel pressure reg and other fittings on my LTD are all left hand thread)

hope thats any help to ya?

Thanks. I don't think so. The banjo fitting came off in the normal direction.

Nah they are normal thread.. its prob never been changed in its life so it will be tight..:)

Get some penetrating oil and spray it all over the fittings, give it a while to soak in and see if that doesn't help.

Yeah I soaked it with WD40 this morning and will give it a few more bursts over the next few days. Then I'll give it all another go when I have an afternoon free.

So here's a pic of my fuel filter. I think that I'm supposed to support the fuel line at nut B (which seems to be welded to the line) whith a spanner while turning nut A (which is in fact part of the filter) Should turn right off - right? Trouble is there's not much room in there and the filter's on damn tight. I hope a couple of days of WD40 loosens it.

Fuel line looks a little kinked to me ???

http://i11.tinypic.com/85aba81.jpg

Nut B isn't welded to the line. When you get it loose it will turn. But yes they are hard to undo.

Someone here previously posted about a special spanner for this. It was like a ring spanner but with a gap to get round the pipe and nut.

Rob

Nut B holds the threaded fitting to the end of the line then I suppose So how do you support the line when trying to turn the filter off? I don't want to twist, kink or break the line by swinging on the filter too hard.

Mine came undone using 2 spanners and clamping them together like scissors.

Make sure both threads are turning the right way to loosen. Easy to confuse yourself on these ones.

i've been trying to do mine now for a while now, i can get the top nut off easily but the bottom one won't nudge at all. the nut has been rounded off a bit too which dosen't help. nay ideas

When my oil drain nut wouldn't come undone the other day I poured some cold water on the nut head (the engine was warm). It let go right after that.

If this doesn't budge I will try icing down the fuel line.

Undo it at the injector rail, and then separate the line out of the car, where there's a little more working room. You'll need another set of crush washers, though, for the injector rail banjo bolt.

Thanks. The banjo fitting is fine though. I got that off OK. It's the one underneath that takes supply from the tank that's the problem. I'll try again soon as I'm giving it heaps of WD40 atm.:badgrin:

Undo it at the injector rail, and then separate the line out of the car, where there's a little more working room. You'll need another set of crush washers, though, for the injector rail banjo bolt.

how hard is it to do that??

Get some 'Rost off Ice' from repco. It freezes the nut and if it doesnt free it your in a bit of trouble. WD40 is crap.

how hard is it to do that??
I'd photograph it for you now, but the intake manifold is off the car.

It's much easier in a first gen at least, as they're a little tightly packed in that area.

thats ok ill have another crack at it this arvo

Gav he can get the fuel line side off that goes to the rail, it is the other end that is the issue.

If I could count the amont of members who can not get these off and they bring them to me and I get them, well I would be rich anyway :)

Make sure that the end with the 14mm, you use a good quality brake line spanner, this will prevent from rounding.

On the filter use a nice long spanner, then using both hands (is a little tight) squeze them togehter.

Remember they are normal thread and you are looking at them in reverse so in effect you need to turn anti clockwise. ie if the fitting is on the pass side of the filter, turn the nut down.