Hi everyone,

Well it looks as though I probably need to pull the heads off my 6G72 to see where the water usage is occuring as Ive pretty much replaced everything else. Im planning to do the work myself so are there any hints or tips that you can offer? Ive got my gregory's and just need to buy myself a torque wrench so I can tension up the head bolts etc to the correct torque.

One thing I am worried about is getting the timing belt back on correctly. If I mark the spots with liquid paper or something similar, then I should be right?

Apart from that, any other tips?

how to do



before you refit the inlet manifold


make sure the rear mount engine brace to the coil mounting bracket is secure

make sure the injector clips are all fitted

replace any perished vaccume hoses/ coolant bypass hoses or the heater hoses

..they are hard to get to later

undo the wiring loom carefully
undo the exhausts first
mark the timing belt direction and timing marks

the head bolts are a Hex head so you need the 10 mm tool from repco (less than $20)
nm is 110

and the rest is in this link done it a few times

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=21566#21566

Timing Belt Replacement - Mitsubishi 3.0 V6:

Buy the full water pump kit / a half water pump does create more work
disconnect Battery
Drain radiator

Setting the valve timing. on the balancer to line up with the TDC (top dead centre)
Next step is to remove the two top timing belt covers. Little half moon looking things secured by two 10mm bolts.

Before removing the Timing belt
Mark the cams and the belts with paint one tooth to both cams and one mark on the belt at that same spots to the cams mark

the tooth count between the two top cams is 22 teeth of the belt timing dot to dot

support engine under neath and remove passenger side engine mount

Remove the A/C and power steering belts.

The A/C belt loosen the 17mm nut on the tensioner a couple of turns and then wind the 13mm headed bolt down until the belt is loose enough to

Remove. The power steering pump completly There are two holes in the pulley and these have to rotated into a position where you can get a 14mm socket onto the two bolts holding it in place.
and move the hoses out of the way also .......some fluid will be lost

undo and take off main belt tensioner pulley and idler pulley on it.
This to gain access to the timing belt cover.

The A/C compressor pump stays on

The next step is to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt,

put the front head and timing pully at TDC

Position 1/2inch drive T Bar sit it on the balancer bolt and long pipe on the passengers side of the car facing the back of the car

Make sure everyone is a safe distance away,

go to the drivers side and make sure the vehicle is in nuetral or park for autos and flick the ignition key for a few seconds.
there will be a small noise
THE NUT DOES UNDO
The crankshaft will turn and the socket and breaker bar will hit on the chassis rail and loosen the bolt.
You may need to do it a few times before it comes loose.

the timing pully is on a keyway and will rock off or slide of easily

undo the idler timing belt pully nut and the spring will come off easily

there is a cast iorn bracket the timing belt runs through this has to be undone (3 bolts)
do not move the crankshaft or cams once you remove the timing belt

Remove the timing belt.

Replacing the waterpump
Warning
There is one counter sunk screw holding the backing plate to the outer water pump internally so if you are replacing only he half the whole water pump has to be removed or the backing plate will crack

a new counter sunk screw does not come with the half water pump kit

Remove all the bolts holding the water pump
lever the whole pump of from behind the water pump body
to release the hold of the O ring
use a sealant on the oring and gasket supplied
some force is required to refit the new pump over the pipe with the O ring on it so it sits cose to the block
make sure all the bolts are started by hand before tightening

Do not over-tighten bolts. 10 and 12mm bolts torque approx 10 nm

fill radiator with water to check for water leaks

refit the timing belt tensioner and feed belt to correct position

fit the timing belt refering to the old belt and its marking to be sure the engine and cams have not moved

if not the same ...... correct before fitting the new belt

turn the motor two times and recheck the timing

Refit the cast iorn bracket the timing belt runs through (3 bolts)

refit all the plastic timing covers

The harmonic balancer bolt must be tightened to a torque of 127Nm or 95ft/lb.

The metal ‘disc’ must be installed between the crankshaft gear and the harmonic balancer as it stops the belt from running off the pulleys. If you are not sure which way it came off look for the crankshaft gear marks

Covered it 100% man :D

Ive had to do this s*** so many times now its like general knowledge to me.

Also you can stick a screwdriver in the spark plug hole of number 1 to make sure its at TDC

also, never drag your head across a head gasket - or you will have shortened the life of it to the point where you can pretty much take it straight off and go buy a new one!

always place the head straight down to avoid dragging.

my 2cents :)

Cheers for the tips. I'll take my time with it because its a second car.
Since the motor it staying in the car, is their any point of doing anything to the block itself?

I was going to get the heads skimmed and cleaned.

']

Ive had to do this s*** so many times now its like general knowledge to me.



LOL @ that....ahahah...no comment.

here's a tip dont let Tufftr near it.

It's real easy to do the heads on a V6 even if you haven't done it before just takes a bit of time. You should also use new head bolts and make sure that the block face is absolutely clean and all bolt holes got no crap in them.

What are some useful tools I'll need to accomplish the job?
So far, I have thought of:

breaker bar (for crankshaft pulley bolt), torque wrench (for head bolts), loctite (?), valve remover tool.

Also, what size is the crankshaft bolt?

What should I use to clean the gunk off surfaces? Ive seen gasket remover, is that fine or just a scraper will do?

Don't use a scraper - big no no! If you must you can use a razor blade and very carefully remove the buildup, but you're better off removing most of it with a rag and some brake cleaner.

Don't use a scraper - big no no! If you must you can use a razor blade and very carefully remove the buildup, but you're better off removing most of it with a rag and some brake cleaner.

petrol is a great degreaser as well - but i dont think its legal to use it for that.

crank shaft bolt is set up to use two tools
you can use a 1/2 inch hex
a 22 or 24 mm socket (not sure on that )

NO loctite on the engine or mount bolts

3/8 socket set

12-17 mm spanners

1/2 sockets/ T bar/ long and short extension / rachet

']Ive had to do this s*** so many times now its like general knowledge to me.
And you say that first gens are unreliable!

For cleaning the parts, carby or brake cleaner does a good job.

One little trick I learn't on a twin cam 4AGE AE86 corolla...

Once everything is together... put your oil in... but don't put the water/coolant in the radiator...

Start it and run it for a minute or two idling away...to get some temperature into the block and heads..

Turn it off and let it cool... then put the water/coolant in the radiator.

Reason: most if not all head gaskets have a type of heat activated sealant in them and running the engine dry without water "melts" this stuff into the porous surfaces of the head and block... creates a better seal.....

Also some people use spray hylomar on the gasket to seal it.....


Quite a few mechanics I've spoken to do this..... but remember to put oil in the thing before you start her up....
Another trick is to give the head bolts a little more torque... only around 10 ftlb though... don't go all crazy on it...


Steve