Ok on the TR mitsu V6 on the drivers side of the engine bay on the firewall theres like a massive round black thing which connects to the brake master cylinder....im guessing its the booster right?
anyway theres a hose that comes off that and onto the throttle body

Now when i took this hose off there was no noise when i took it off from the throttle body end but when i took it off from the booster end it made a PSSSSSSHHHHHhhhh noise like it was letting out alot of air.

there was a white sort of "reducer" in there which looked like it was stuck inside the hose just after the brake booster end

i went to the wreckers and found out this little end bit is screwed INTO the end of the brake booster and the hose slides over it all.

I have a feeling ive broken this little end off and some of it is stuck inside the brake booster and wont allow me to screw another one in there.

how the hell do i get this stuck bit of plastic out of the thread which is facing downwards??? (i.e. cant see it with my eyes just can feel it with a screwdriver)

car was running fine, had the mech replace a cam seal while i changed a few hoses (wanted red ones:P)

and now it sounds like there is a MASSIVE vacuum leak and out of the 5 hoses i changed this is the only thing i can think of which could be causing it.

helpzies?

sounds like it could be the check-valve. broken means big vacuum leak through the booster, and you will have little/no brake assistance.

:bowrofl: red hoses ftw.

Stiiiiimpy you eeeeediot!

Stiiiiimpy you eeeeediot!

:bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl: lol :badgrin:

havent heard that in years.

'] it made a PSSSSSSHHHHHhhhh noise like it was letting out alot of air.

sure you didnt get it confused with your blow off valve?

Stiiiiimpy you eeeeediot!

I miss Ren & Stimpy :cry:

I miss Ren & Stimpy :cry:
I miss my car come fix it

there's a one-way valve in that pipe. It means that it can vacuum the air out of the booster, but when the engine is off the vacuum stays in there.

To test, with the car off pump the pedal a few times till it it hard, hold down the brake pedal and start the engine, does the pedal sink further down? if so you are fine.

pictures??

remove the booster from the car... ya putz


thats what happens when u go pulling off little things... they break and make a helluva mess.

remove the booster from the car... ya putz


thats what happens when u go pulling off little things... they break and make a helluva mess.

See you saturday?
LOL

']See you saturday?
LOL

Sunday lmao

you may have to drill out the plastic part

fit a new non return valve (white thing connected to the hose or booster for the hose )

then make sure the vaccume hose it self is good

if they can remove the stuck bit
get a booster from a wrecker and fit that
then it is just a pin and a few bolts
that would safe time and cost for a mechanic

Goddam it.
Whats a rough price to get this fixed by a mecho?
I'm really sick of little crap happening to it which keeps it off the road.

there's a one-way valve in that pipe. It means that it can vacuum the air out of the booster, but when the engine is off the vacuum stays in there.Interesting... looks like a cheap addition to the vacuum setup I'm making...:cool:

anyone ever changed one before?
gonna do this tomorrow doesnt look too hard, do i need to bleed the brake lines?

you can leave the master cylinder lines on you only have to unbolt it form the black booster
the hard part is gettiing to the 4 nuts and pin under the dash :badgrin:

you can leave the master cylinder lines on you only have to unbolt it form the black booster
the hard part is gettiing to the 4 nuts and pin under the dash :badgrin:

thats what i thought
said nothing about bleeding lines or anything in the user manual.
serioulsy its like a 40 cent part
THEN it says "be careful of the valve on the end" in the book, wish i saw that first :P

']anyone ever changed one before?
gonna do this tomorrow doesnt look too hard, do i need to bleed the brake lines?

yea i've changed the brake booster and servo (big round black thing behind the master cly).
I pulled on out of a 2nd gen and fitted it.
If your gonna change it you might as well drain out all the old fluid and put some fresh stuff in there and then bleed it. then you won't need to worry about it for a while.
there's only like 1 or 2 lts in the whole system.
If you've done your head gasket before which you have than this will be a peice of cake.
just go to the wreckers and pull one out of the lowest klm one you can find and then go buy 2 bottles of fluid , then remove the old servo swap it for the working one and replace all the old fuild.
just be carefull of the line fittings to the master cly cos sometimes they can be stuck.
I managed to round one:rant: then i had to use a plumbers monkey wrench to undo and reighten it up. not happy jan.

It's an easy job for you tuffy should only take an hour or 2.

p.s i bleed my brake evey time i change the pads. when i comes to things like brakes, suspenion (which matter alot in dangerous situations) i never cut corners or buy cheap parts cos it's your life that could be snuffed out buy being lazy. well thats the way i look at it.

Cool man.
Im gonna go wreckers tomorrow to try my luck first at removing one.
I've bled brakes before. I'm just pissed at my Luck.

if it snapped off then i'm guessing it would be pretty brittle. i would just try to break it further and watch the little pieces fall out the simply screw the new one in.

might work, might not either way it may save you having to pissfart around taking the brake booster off.

if it snapped off then i'm guessing it would be pretty brittle. i would just try to break it further and watch the little pieces fall out the simply screw the new one in.

might work, might not either way it may save you having to pissfart around taking the brake booster off.

yeah i was hoping to do that...
thing is being a TR the nozzle faces down, on the TS's (well on one ive seen) they have one that moves! (which would of been AWESOME!)

Its just hard to see into that nozzle period!
was at the wreckers today and tried to look in with a car which had the whole inlet manifold off, still couldnt see in. bastards

Almost done, just going to get a good set of pipe spanners tomorrow so i dont round the fittings like last time (lol) and a few litres of fluid for bleeding the brakes.

dear god how i hate bleeding brakes

']dear god how i hate bleeding brakes
You and me both, my man, you and me both!

Sad thing is that only Magna Buff gave correct or helpful info here. Guys, unless you know what you are talking about, look but do not post please

The valve is the check valve, it is only there to stop a back fire damaging the diaphragm.

The booster does not pull vacuum out of the engine, the engine will pull air out of the booster to create a vacuum thus assist the braking.

In order to remove this, you can use an easy out and carefully thread it in and then it may come out. Only issue being plastic is that you may expand it and it will be in there tighter. You can also use the correct drill bit and use a tap (as it tap and die) handle to hand drill in and use a vacuum cleaner to suck the bits of plastic out. A few rogue bits inside will do no harm at all as the diaphragm is quite thick and over time brake fluid will seep in there as will dust etc.

You may be able to remove with the master cyl in place, you will have to pull the brake lines back a fair way to get clearance however be careful you do not bend them.

As for bleeding brakes, get a 600ml coke bottle, drill a hole in the cap and fit some vacuum line into it, drill a small hold near the top of the bottle as well. Put the hose on the bleed nipple, loosen it, get in the car and GENTLY depress the pedal several times. This will make bleeding easy.

Sad thing is that only Magna Buff gave correct or helpful info here. Guys, unless you know what you are talking about, look but do not post please


so i guess after working on car for almost 10 years of my life it all comes down to the mighty keyboard warrior telling me that what i said was incorrect.

so i guess after working on car for almost 10 years of my life it all comes down to the mighty keyboard warrior telling me that what i said was incorrect.

Sorry mate did not see your post, will correct to 2 people :D

As for being a keyboard warrior, I have worked on more cars on this forum that most have had posts, I have been in trade most of my working life.

and sorry back to you. I just assume people read everything that is posted before offering an opinion. If you look at the latest thread regarding exhaust mods you will notice you are not alone.

Thanks MM.
I also read the service manual aswell so i knew what i was doing (had it in writing)
And hey gives me a chance to fully bleed the brakes with some fresh fluid.
Hopefully this should be done by mid arvo.
Then i'll have a car again wewp!
and i'll stick to touching electronics!!

ok well all brakes have been bled and yeah, i hope they work.
now it has a MASSIVE vacuum leak so i dont know really what to replace...
cant tel where its coming from either but yeah its a pretty huge vacuum leak.
car doesnt like idling at 100rpm

']car doesnt like idling at 100rpm
Really?

You need a diesel motor man. They'll idle at 100rpm!
(Sorry, no help on the vacuum leak. Tried soapy water at all the joins?)

']
I also read the service manual aswell so i knew what i was doing


Sorry, but i had to LOL @ that.... lol

Sorry, but i had to LOL @ that.... lol

We all aren't as talented as you asshat:P