Hey there AMCers!!

I have a 02 TJ VR-X

My handbrake is a bit sticky... it's only got 67,000k's on it and was wondering if anyone had this prob with theirs..
Basically it does release when you drop the handle, but you can hear the shoe slightly touch the drum inside.... sometimes after a humid day it squeals a bit too... not all the way around just parts of the drum..
I've adjusted it (Both at the cable under the centre console and at the disc), cleaned it out
Readjusted 3 times.. and it helps for a while... but hey...

Basically I'm thinking either the cable has got some gunk in it and the release spring hasn't got the grunt to release it that little extra bit

Anyways.. has anyone else had this issue??

Steve

Adjusting handbrake on magna requires patience and time and some more patience.
Basically I raise the rear end and remove both wheels. Adjust adjuster nuts at the discs first, then cable nut. When adjusting at the disc I will put wheel on and take it off the hub many times until happy with adjustment (using wheel to check adjustment makes it easier and gives me better feedback than using disc only).
After driving some distance on the road where you don't need to use brakes check the temperature of the drums immediately after you stop. They should be cold/lukewarm when you touch them. If they are hot adjustment is to tight. If one side feels warmer than the other, adjust warmer one (loosen up a bit, not much, you want both sides to grip the drums when you apply the handbrake). You may have to repeat this couple of times until satisfied.

In Gregory's it says movement of the handbrake lever must be between 3-5 notches. Ignore that, I have it adjusted at 7-8 notches, no noises whatsoever, drums are cold and the handbrake does its job well (very steep driveway).

Being one piece brake shoe design on magna makes it fewer parts being used, but it also makes performance of the handbrake porer than conventional drum brake.

Adjusting the handbrake at the cable adjusting nut only, beneath centre console, is band aid solution. It has to be adjusted at the discs.

Adjusting handbrake on magna requires patience and time and some more patience.
Basically I raise the rear end and remove both wheels. Adjust adjuster nuts at the discs first, then cable nut. When adjusting at the disc I will put wheel on and take it off the hub many times until happy with adjustment (using wheel to check adjustment makes it easier and gives me better feedback than using disc only).
After driving some distance on the road where you don't need to use brakes check the temperature of the drums immediately after you stop. They should be cold/lukewarm when you touch them. If they are hot adjustment is to tight. If one side feels warmer than the other, adjust warmer one (loosen up a bit, not much, you want both sides to grip the drums when you apply the handbrake). You may have to repeat this couple of times until satisfied.

In Gregory's it says movement of the handbrake lever must be between 3-5 notches. Ignore that, I have it adjusted at 7-8 notches, no noises whatsoever, drums are cold and the handbrake does its job well (very steep driveway).

Being one piece brake shoe design on magna makes it fewer parts being used, but it also makes performance of the handbrake porer than conventional drum brake.

Adjusting the handbrake at the cable adjusting nut only, beneath centre console, is band aid solution. It has to be adjusted at the discs.

Yep I hear you..
I did all that, cleaned it all out with brake cleaner (Evil stuff... love it!!!) readjusted the barrels on both sides... I leave the disc on with two wheel nuts to hold the disc in place...
I then backed off the cable under the centre console and readjusted the barrels as per the mitso service manual.... I doesn't drag when you spin it by hand, but when you release the brake I think the return spring/cable might have some crap in there so it may need a clean...

After reading what you said maybe they are still rubbing a tiny bit .... I'll do it cos' mitso might charge like a wounded bull and replace cables etc.... I'll give the strip down a try and put some tri-flow in the end of the cables see if that helps..

BTW I have the DBR crossdrilled and slotted rotors on it... (Bought it like that) if it were up to me i would have only got the slotted versions... but hey... better than the stockies.

Thanks guys!!

Steve

I have it adjusted at 7-8 notches, no noises whatsoever, drums are cold and the handbrake does its job well (very steep driveway).

Yep 7-8 clicks is exactly what it needs to be at. Same applies to the falcons (BA-F owners take note!). They're one of the worst.

What does the manual say exactly? Its supposed to be tighten until cant turn and then back off 15 notches. Mitsubishi brought out a few revisions back in the day because of noisy handbrakes.

What does the manual say exactly? Its supposed to be tighten until cant turn and then back off 15 notches. Mitsubishi brought out a few revisions back in the day because of noisy handbrakes.
Page 36-3-1 of the official manual says it differently to that.

I can't get a copy to the forum from this computer otherwise I would post it.

A search of the forum will tell you where to download it from.

However it does specify a drag of 4.3 to 4.5 kgf measured with a spring balance attached to a string wrapped around the wheel studs. This is measured with the disc brake caliper swung up out of the way.

When this drag is achieved the adjuster is backed off 5 notches.

Rob

Page 36-3-1 of the official manual says it differently to that.

I can't get a copy to the forum from this computer otherwise I would post it.

A search of the forum will tell you where to download it from.

However it does specify a drag of 4.3 to 4.5 kgf measured with a spring balance attached to a string wrapped around the wheel studs. This is measured with the disc brake caliper swung up out of the way.

When this drag is achieved the adjuster is backed off 5 notches.

Rob

Hmmm that sounds like the old original procedure. From memory Mitsubishi revised the procedure twice with service bulletins.

The way I do it everytime is tighten until the disc cant be turned and then back off 15. Can go a couple more if the disc is still grabbing a bit. Never had a problem this way.

Well I did the Handbrake yesterday...

Totally stripped it apart, cleaned (LOTS of brake dust, and a broken retainer on the R/H brake pad thing, I knew that was broken but it still held the pad in place so it wasn't the noise) re-greased the barrell where the two "pistons" sit, took the cable out and cleaned and then squirted some "Tri-Flow" teflon oil into them...
Re-built the whole lot back together and it looked sweet... (AND I replaced the broken retainer)
Tried something different from the manual......

with the adjusters on the cylinders wound in all the way...
I pulled the hand brake up 5 clicks.... then adjusted the barrells as far as they would go with a flat bladed screw driver.... both sides.

Then checked the holding ability of the brake on 8 clicks on the GF's heavily sloping driveway... didn't hold all that well..

I took the centre console box out and gave the 10mm nut a couple of turns so basically at 4 and a half clicks of the handbrake lever the brake starts to grab... by the 8th click it's rock solid...:clap:
Best of all

No noise when you drive off!!!!! :D :D :D :D

So thanks guys for all the help!!
Muchly appreciated....


Steve