Alright, I've been on the market for some time now as a few of you know, mainly doing some research on specific cars available before the money bit comes through and I can actually start inspecting some of the cars.

There's a particular KE Xi I've had my eye on which has been around for a bit, and is about to clock 195k's on the odo. I've asked about the 200k timing belt which the seller says has been changed and has the invoice to provide for that.

The car has its service history (which I obviously haven't seen yet) and it looks pretty clean and well cared for based on the photos.

What else should I be weary about given the high km's, should I even be concerned?

Nearing 200k I've always considered a bad thing, but its hard to find 3rd gen Veradas that fall into my bugdet, so the question is I suppose is this going to be as trouble free as the next one with less k's (presuming its been maintained properly) or should I hold off and see what pops up in the near future?

Thanks guys n gals.

I've got 180,000 k's and my car cops an absolute hiding and has not missed a beat.

i'd just make sure that it's always had regular servicing and when stuff does need changing it gets changed.. my old TH has 198 on her.. and it actually goes better than my KJ verada..

So is that saying I would be better off with the higher K car I know has been serviced properly over the one with lower k's but no history? The difference I'm talking about is say 140/160 vs 180/200.

well for example.. my mates KJ verada XI has had maybe one oil change in 14 mts..

i'm suprised it is still running.. the lifters make the worlds worst horrid tapping noise on the planet.. only 3.7 L of oil went back in when we did change the oil (i never ever want to see how much gunge and **** is on the inside of the engine).. with a filter change.. the auto oil is herendously over due for a serivce/filter change, plugs need doing, cam covers are leaking.. all just general maintenance.. always fills up with wollies petrol.. get poor economy and when you boot it and kicks back a gear pings like no tomorrow..

vs mine with 40 thou more on the clock.. which get excellent economy, doesn't use a drop of oil, and runs on 98 all the time..

if everything is up to scratch with maintenance.. high km's shouldn't bother it a single bit..

just buy what you like best and sems the best at the time

and if the engine croaks

i got a TJ 3.5L 69,000km engine fitted to my awd before i sold it for $700 for the engine then 4-500 for labour.... the trans is the part to worry about... engine can be changed in one day and costs nothing! the trans on the other hand costs more

As nice as the rada is, you have always said you wanted a manual. Don't comprimise (I know I can't spell) having both the manual kicks ass!

sold the other car yet? id be worrying bout that before looking at particular cars as it could be months before you sell and you will have to start the search all over again

As nice as the rada is, you have always said you wanted a manual. Don't comprimise (I know I can't spell) having both the manual kicks ass!
As much as I want a manual, I've decided luxury extras over transmission type, so I'll roll with an auto I suppose. A manual exec and auto verada are the same cost, I couldn't justify losing so much just for the trans.


sold the other car yet? id be worrying bout that before looking at particular cars as it could be months before you sell and you will have to start the search all over again
Nah but it doesn't stop me from looking. Rather find out what I need to know now than try to work it all out in a mad rush when the time comes.

as most members will tell you on here the auto trans for the magna is a piece of ***** ey iv had nothing but troubles with mine and its on its second rebuild with only 100k on the clock...so buy a manual if you dont want issues
As much as I want a manual, I've decided luxury extras over transmission type, so I'll roll with an auto I suppose. A manual exec and auto verada are the same cost, I couldn't justify losing so much just for the trans.


Nah but it doesn't stop me from looking. Rather find out what I need to know now than try to work it all out in a mad rush when the time comes.

as most members will tell you on here the auto trans for the magna is a piece of ***** ey iv had nothing but troubles with mine and its on its second rebuild with only 100k on the clock...so buy a manual if you dont want issues
Well if someone can find me a TH Advance or TH Sports manual for $6k I might consider that, I don't want a base model. The verada's have the works, and besides, if the auto tranny dies, I might just do the conversion, if I've got the money to do it. They really can't be all that bad, theres a heck of a lot of auto magnas around.

Na they aren't all bad, my missus has 150 on the clock and has no trans probs. I was considering the 5 speed tippy before i found mine. Your right though the rada's have everything and I wouldn't go for a base model

211k auto 4 cyl, what troubles are you guys speaking of have so far no issues on my car.

It depends on how you drive and maintain it.

Na they aren't all bad, my missus has 150 on the clock and has no trans probs.

Same, no trouble with my auto Verada with 115k on the clock.

My TH is approaching 250,000 and to be honest hasn't been looked after service wise. She's running fine although I have lost a bit of power I'm noticing lately.

Alright, got the finances ready so I'm now good to go.

Anything else anyone wants to add that I should keep an eye out for when looking. So far all I've worked out is service history is more important than just low k's.

Well if someone can find me a TH Advance or TH Sports manual for $6k I might consider that, I don't want a base model. The verada's have the works, and besides, if the auto tranny dies, I might just do the conversion, if I've got the money to do it. They really can't be all that bad, theres a heck of a lot of auto magnas around.


Would be cheaper and easier to get a manual sports and do a leather conversion.

Alright, I've been on the market for some time now as a few of you know, mainly doing some research on specific cars available before the money bit comes through and I can actually start inspecting some of the cars.

There's a particular KE Xi I've had my eye on which has been around for a bit, and is about to clock 195k's on the odo. I've asked about the 200k timing belt which the seller says has been changed and has the invoice to provide for that.

The car has its service history (which I obviously haven't seen yet) and it looks pretty clean and well cared for based on the photos.

What else should I be weary about given the high km's, should I even be concerned?

Nearing 200k I've always considered a bad thing, but its hard to find 3rd gen Veradas that fall into my bugdet, so the question is I suppose is this going to be as trouble free as the next one with less k's (presuming its been maintained properly) or should I hold off and see what pops up in the near future?

Thanks guys n gals.

Make sure that the auto shifts normally and doesnt flare or hard shift. Especially from 2 - 3. Autos were a big problem with TE and TF.
Will most likely be oil leak city. Cam seals, rocker cover gaskets, sump, auto trans pan etc. Make sure it doesnt smoke otherwise it needs valve stem seals.

Thats the main stuff to worry about with magnas.

follow your heart/gut instinct and bring a mechanically minded friend just for assurance.

Would be cheaper and easier to get a manual sports and do a leather conversion.
Doubted, lets look at the figures, $6-6.5k for a KF Xi + ~$3k to manual convert, total $9-9.5k. Manual TF Sports ~$7-7.5k + Power windows conversion, leather conversion, woodgrain trims, climate control, stereo, parras.....the list goes on, not sure how its going to work out cheaper.

That said, I have no intentions of converting a car to manual, I'll only own a manual if it comes like that. I like the goodies on the verada over a bog stock exec with a manual tranny. If it weren't so impossible to get Manual Sports without paying an arm and a leg I might have considered it.


Make sure that the auto shifts normally and doesnt flare or hard shift. Especially from 2 - 3. Autos were a big problem with TE and TF.
Will most likely be oil leak city. Cam seals, rocker cover gaskets, sump, auto trans pan etc. Make sure it doesnt smoke otherwise it needs valve stem seals.

Thats the main stuff to worry about with magnas.
That sort of stuff normally covered in roadworthies? I'll keep an eye out for it, will probably be looking with dad, he's better than I am with engines but neither of us are by any means experts, so I'll just try my best :D


follow your heart/gut instinct and bring a mechanically minded friend just for assurance.
Now thats advice! :P

As nice as the rada is, you have always said you wanted a manual. Don't comprimise (I know I can't spell) having both the manual kicks ass!

in years to come, early model 3rd gen magnas will be rare as.

i say if u want manual, get it, dont compromise, will be more fun to drive...verada is heavierr too.

u said u wanted lux extra's they are easy to add to your car, u can get fauz leather n stuff for not too much, a manual gearbox is alot more than it will cost to make ur car lux.

Another thing I need to bear in mind is I want the 3.5L six, which means any 3rd gen verada, or TH onwards in the Magna's. Because the TH is newer it costs more again. I'm not trying to sound like I want to disagree with everyone, just thinking realistically.

Manual is something I've wanted for a while, but its not liked it'd kill me to drive an auto, I don't mind them that much. Truth is manual magna's with what I wanted fitted don't exist in my price bracket, so I've gotta work with what I have. KF's aren't all that common in my price bracket, but at least they pop up from time to time, and they've got most of the bits and pieces I want as standard, which means I can sit on it stock happily for a bit until I save up the $$$ for the mods.

Auto verada is basically just what I've decided to do after quite a bit of thought. Thanks a bunch for the opinions though guys.

So it's Service history, no oil leaks, no smoking and make sure the tranny is in good working order. Anything else? I'll probably start hunting them down this weekend.

Hey Lugo,

Try auctions if you have a price limitation, it may take you a bit longer to find something but you should find a car within your price range (as long as it's reasonable) and cars from auctions normally have lower km's and service books as they have been fleet cars. Having said that, it's still worth scruitinising an auction car, take a mechanic or someone "in the know" with you. Will send details of auction cars as they come up if thats of any help?

Even an Ei still has a lot of lux options, the leather is nice, but it's a prick when it's hot. The 3.5 is a good option. Most of all GOOD LUCK!

another suggestion is bring a member with you, of course one that knows his stuff...

things to look out that you can add to your list are

- look out for signs of accident, slight different in paint colour, gaps between panels or panels to bumper bar
- tyre wear, it should be even on each side, expect the fronts to show more wear than the rear, thats normal.
- if there is a tow bar, then the transmission may have had a hard life (if its had lots of heavy towing), so purchase of car may not be advisable particularly in auto form.

i'm sure there will be a few more one can think off, just not at the moment.

Even an Ei still has a lot of lux options, the leather is nice, but it's a prick when it's hot. The 3.5 is a good option. Most of all GOOD LUCK!

agreed, in many of the veradas the Ei doesnt lose out on much compared to the Xi, and when looking at older cars, the leather and sunroof may be in worse shape anyway, thus adding to the repair costs. so if it was me, i'd be comparing Ei to Xi models, seeing if you can get lower mileage for ur money on the Ei models :)


Also, to add, i doubt you'll get FSH on a 200,000k car, most likely u'd get it for the last 100,000k's at most! so bear that in mind, that u dont know how the first owner or 2 looked after the car

another suggestion is bring a member with you, of course one that knows his stuff...
Well if Boozer is up for it i am too. He helped me choose my new car... Mainly he was there to help me keep a balanced perspective on things so i didnt just buy the first car i saw... Only the second! But you will get a "vibe" if the car is right, trust me.

Pick some cars you are interested in out and we will do a Saturday lap around some private sales! :D

done deal!!! nothing better than rocking up in 2 TLs (VR & VRX) with a mission to buy a 3rd Gen, that would send any dodgy dealer/owner packing!

done deal!!! nothing better than rocking up in 2 TLs (VR & VRX) with a mission to buy a 3rd Gen, that would send any dodgy dealer/owner packing!
Well the dealer wont be inclined to spin (as much) crap if there are people who know their stuff are confronting him in a car yard!

Well the dealer wont be inclined to spin (as much) crap if there are people who know their stuff are confronting him in a car yard!

ahhh reminds me of the day a salesman at car city tried to tell me a TF sport "it has 40kw more than the stock engine..."

this is me *BAHAHAHA* walks away thinking that guy is a tosser....

Hey Lugo,

Just for your info that TH Ei this morning went for $3800. Had a mate go and look at it for me and it was in okay shape, had service history (not that it means much in reality, but it's some comfort) had 190,000kms not the 180,000kms he'd advertised and there were a few trolley/push-bike type dents down the left side (apparently about $500 worth of repair if you know a decent panel beater) but other than that it seemed like an okay proposition. No rattles or tapping, no ill-fitting or off-color panels. Needed a tail light for roadworthy, plus whatever else got picked-up.

I will keep an eye out for the same sort of thing at actual auctions in Melbourne because I'm a bit wary of eBay, but it does prove that they are out there in your price range, so good luck with your search.

Geeze guys you are eager, I'm getting synchronized PM's from you two lol

I'll give you guys a yell if I'm after somebody to pop round with me to have a look, get someone who knows their stuff along.

Nothing could be more intimidating than a group of Magna's/Verada's surrounding the sellers house, might make em be honest :bowrofl:

Tbh there isn't much on the market atm, theres a dealer KF Xi with 139k on the clock in a dealership in hoppers crossing I plan on having a look at, so I'll report back on that one when I take a look, if I'm unsure about anything I'll bribe one of you guys to come down with us the next time :P

Afaik that white one I was talking about with 195k is one owner with full service history, so I might check that out as well, although I am a little hesitant about buying a car with nearly 200k on the clock, not just for repairs and whatever, but also resale down the track.

A photo of each of the two I'm considering atm. White is a KE Xi with Sunroof and Spoiler (195k's) and the Green is the dealer KF Xi (139k's), both 1997 models.

KE Xi:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/09c1bf4a.jpghttp://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/527fe1bd.jpg

KF Xi:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/191840b3.jpghttp://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/94988834.jpg

A photo of each of the two I'm considering atm. White is a KE Xi with Sunroof and Spoiler (195k's) and the Green is the dealer KF Xi (139k's), both 1997 models.

KE Xi:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/09c1bf4a.jpghttp://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/527fe1bd.jpg

KF Xi:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/191840b3.jpghttp://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/94988834.jpg
What sort of $$$ are they asking for these?

take both for a test drive, i got a buzz on both and can't decided which is better based on pics, the interior looks better in the green KF but the lighting is bad on the white KE, exterior wise both are on par, it just colour preference.

take both for a test drive, i got a buzz on both and can't decided which is better based on pics, the interior looks better in the green KF but the lighting is bad on the white KE, exterior wise both are on par, it just colour preference.
I plan on it, I should point out now the White is listed for $6500, Green is $6999. I've got a set budget of $6k for the car, willing to go upto maybe $6.2k if I'm desperate. So bargaining will have to come into play here.

Budget has been decided on a combination of wanting some savings still in case **** happens and I need excess or whatever else that might happen in life, and not wanting to blow too much money on my first car I'll be driving solo.

Can't see it in that pic (I've got high res photos of the white KE) but the drivers seat leather is a bit cracked up in places, which isn't the best. Might need some repair work at worst. White also has a couple of scrape marks on the left side of the rear bumper otherwise its in good nick from what I can see. I know nothing about the condition of the green on yet.

Lorlorpy, thanks for keeping an eye out for me, hopefully a bargain might pop up in the next week or two :P Would want to be a good one though, both the parents are very much against the idea of buying a car from an auction, and I have to let them into the decision a bit.

don't forget the white needs a timing belt change as well, probably better off going the green one...

don't forget the white needs a timing belt change as well, probably better off going the green one...
Asked the owner about that, timing belt has been changed, says he has the invoice to prove that.

we'll go see the car this saturday (working next weekend) hows that?
i'll be heading down to geelong to pick type40 up then heading to eltham ot pick up his car then the rest of the day is free!!!! or i can pipck type40 up then go car shoping then pick up his car pior to going home... either way works for me

KF's aren't all that common in my price bracket, but at least they pop up from time to time, and they've got most of the bits and pieces I want as standard, which means I can sit on it stock happily for a bit until I save up the $$$ for the mods.

Auto verada is basically just what I've decided to do after quite a bit of thought. Thanks a bunch for the opinions though guys.

So it's Service history, no oil leaks, no smoking and make sure the tranny is in good working order. Anything else? I'll probably start hunting them down this weekend.


First up, KF is a good choice; I've only owned mine for a few months and I'm loving it!
They do pop up nice and cheap on the odd rare occasion. I did trade off a little bit with getting mine at the price I got it, there was slight paint damage to the roof (sun damage) and boot lid and rear bumper. There was also a little bit of damage and greater than normal wearing to the interior trim (but nothing terrible). I got my KF Xi for $4700 on road from a dealer. It had a full, really good after market sound system, lowering, extractors and exhaust system & alloys at the time of purchase (as per my profile, except the head was a DVD player with built in screen that I sold). I am yet to find any mechanical issue with it, let alone anything serious. Mine does have a tiny bit of oil seepage, no actual "leaks" as such tho' (never a drop on the drive but there is clearly some on the underside of the sump etc.)

So, it can be difficult but look for a distinction between a full oil leak (bad) and a bit of seepage (common).

I'd recommend (on my limited experience) a quick check of all of the following for a KF verada:
1. Confirm each door activates its door light(s) correctly. Each and every door has its own light which should only turn on by its switch or when that particular door is open these lights are:
Rear pillar, front door curtesy (underneath) and safety (rear facing in the lower door trim)

2. Confirm full functionality of climate control in all modes that is:
Air-con & Heating & "Auto"
+ all vents working (feet, face, windscreen)

3. Confirm compression still good (stick it in first, run it to 60, let the engine bring it back down). Listen for "bad" noises (you'll know it if you hear them) or observe if the car really doesn't slow down well. This also serves to confirm that at least first gear is still in good condition.

4. Count your gears. Make sure the car uses all 4. Shift into 4th should occur almost perfectly on 60kph. (58 in mine)

5. Confirm kick-down functionality and timely response (stomp your foot on the accelerator, it should kick down 1 gear near instantly, if it takes too long or doesn't do it = problem)

6. Confirm ABS functionality; slam the car to a stop from 60kph or higher. The KF has a nice ABS package that doesn't feel like it's going to break your foot. If it goes to full lock, ABS is completely non-functional, if it doesn't lock at all, slam the pedal harder and try again.

7. Check for functionality of the external temp sensor (hit the "out temp" button). Not sure if this one was just me, but mine is locked to 20 because somethings wrong, this could be just mine tho' :)

That'll probably do it (with all the other stuff everyone has mentioned), if you get a KF; I reckon you'll be really happy with that decision, I know I am. :D

i like the white verada - but in saying that, I have been known to buy cars by colour..

in the long run though, the white will be a little more 'forgiving' in the dents / scrapes department, as the lighter ones wont show up *quite* as much as on a darker coloured car.

my2c

mjd26, thanks for the HUUUUUGGGEEE post, think I might print that one off and take it with me, check off each thing as its done. Really handy, thanks mate.

I do prefer the white (in regards to colour choice), but it does have a few wear spots, but then the green one may too, which just means waiting a bit and seeing what else pops up. Depends on the extent of the damage. On the white one its a good bargaining point because the damage is noticeable to the drivers seat and rear bumper. We'll see anyway when I have a look.

In these photos you can see the damage I've spotted so far.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/3734e5f5.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/da1ae925.jpg

I had a scrape on the right rear wheel arch where someone had kindly removed some paint with their car (before I bought it). I bought some touch-up paint from Mitsubishi and it surprisingly came up pretty good. Only once has anyone noticed it.

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/155/img0720oh5.jpg

Helped me knock a bit off the price when I bought it, and I don't even notice it. The position of that scrape would be even less noticeable once touched up I should think.

That came out well, I can't even spot where your talking about.

Its definitely a bargaining point. Km's, Redbook value, damage etc all come into play. Talking a grand off the dealer one + throwing in on road costs is going to be tricky, but if it can be done it'd be a good deal provided the warranty is decent.

Another good thing about the white is that retouching is much easier than with other colours. Where normally you'd have to do a lot of colour matching with any other colour, with white there is very little to no colour matching required during a touchup.

This will make the cost of fixing the paintwork much cheaper for you in the white than the green.

That said; so far green is my favourite out of the too. :)

That came out well, I can't even spot where your talking about.

Its definitely a bargaining point. Km's, Redbook value, damage etc all come into play. Talking a grand off the dealer one + throwing in on road costs is going to be tricky, but if it can be done it'd be a good deal provided the warranty is decent.

Not really trusting on dealer warranties, the one I received with my 94 Holden Barina that I bought on my birthday last year came with one, and reading through it was a joke. Anything remotely expensive seemed to be conveniently excluded :P

The KF does look pretty good with the better km's, but the KE could be a LOT cheaper. Basically the same age, slight damage to the bumper (that can be fixed after purchase) and higher km's.

Redbook for the KF is $6100 private sale with 150k, so if you got that for $6200 you'd be doing pretty well. Better car, but dependant if you like the colour.

I do know of a place that can do professional touch ups fairly cheap for cash, so I might consider taking it to a place like that if I really cared about it :P

The green I'm in favour of too, might have lost the sunroof, but I like colour and the lower k's thing appeals to me. ANYWAY I need to keep any open mind going in to look at all the ones I do look at, don't want to block my judgment favouring one car before I even know whats what. lol

Talking a grand off the dealer one + throwing in on road costs is going to be tricky, but if it can be done it'd be a good deal provided the warranty is decent.

But thats all part of the game lol, you've got to speak as though you don't give a toss if he sells you the car or not. If you want the car, tell him what you'll pay and don't bargain with him. Better still, if the other members are going with you ask one of them if they mind doing your bargaining for you, that way all the emotion is taken out of it, they don't want to buy the car and their main concern is getting your deal.

I've tried this a couple of times for my sister and her friends and it's been a really good way of removing the personal aspect of the sale, I didn't want the cars I was bargaining for but I wanted to see them get the best deal. Had mates bargain on my behalf before too, this ended up in a mate and I spending 8 hours in a dealership and in the end mate/salesman were arguing over $50 with neither side wanting to give in, got the car for my price though. You'll get the usual "I'll just go and ask my boss.....boss said no" or "We paid more than that for it trade-in" but in reality they probably paid some poor bugger $3000 as a trade-in on a new Hyundai or something.

That's very good advice, I brought my cousin along for both checking my car mechanically as well as some bargaining. As you said, it takes the emotion out of it. NEVER make out you want the car, worst thing you can do :P

Well I know full well they didn't pay $6k for it so they can't rub me off with that bull****. They might have payed $4k tops I reckon. We'll see how we go, I'll bargain a bit with him, leave, maybe come back a couple of times and push harder, who knows. Dads fairly experienced with bargaining and so on with cars so I'll leave it up to him :P

In regards to the warranty, whether it be mostly crap or not, its still better than not having one at all. Just gotta be sure I read the fine print before I sign the deal.

If people look at that leather photo I showed above, can anyone give me an indication of the repair costs into fixing that? Would it be as simple as that leather polish care whatever it is stuff, or would it need to be properly repaired?

... bargain a bit with him, leave, maybe come back a couple of times and push harder ...

IMO that approach isn't a good one. The leaving and coming back says "I really do want this car and I'm willing to keep coming back to try again."

You're much better off threatening the leave after their first offer and then giving a second pitch.

Here's the drill:

They say "it's $6700"
You say "I really had only budgeted for $5000, but I think you guys have been good to deal with, I'll give you $5500 if you can do it on road".

They say "I don't think we can do that, we wouldn't really be making any money on it".

You say "It is for cash, so how's about you see if the boss will go for it, maybe he's feeling generous".

The guy wanders off and comes back, then says "The boss is willing to do $5900 on road".

You say "Hmmm, it's not a bad price and I wish I could go for it, but I really don't think I can afford that, I was pushing it a bit with $5500 I think [long pause] ummmm .... [pause] ... I think I might just be able to scrape up $5700, can you beg the boss for me?"

Guy goes away again, comes back; "boss says he's willing to do that for you, come on through and let's sign up"

Main tips from that little roll play:
1. Always go for on road, no point messing around with stamp duty, rego etc. on top of your price.

2. Always shoot for a very low price first. Not completely unreasonable, but at least $400 lower than you think you could genuinely get the car for and ideally $800 - $1000 lower than your max price.

3. Always pay with cash and remind them of your intent to do so.

4. Play like you *do* want the car, but that you're going to be eating out of the trash cans of your neighbours if you pay their asking price.

That does sound pretty good, although I have to be honest with you I don't plan on buying it the first time I see it, so maybe I shouldn't talk about price much at all first up then?

When you say cash too, does that mean I need to physically go get $6000 out of the bank if I want to bargain this way, or is a bank cheque the same deal? I'm fairly n00b with the payment side of things I gotta admit, its a first time for me.

Physical cash in hand is always a good option, but a bank cheque should do the same job for them. Depends on the particular dealer and how much they may be hoping to make the deal go a little under the table. :)

yeh that sort of negotiation is the best imo, also bargain in a full tank of petrol, just before shaking hands :)

hehe wen i bought the rada, i actually had to bargain with the head of sales to get the best price :)

yeh that sort of negotiation is the best imo, also bargain in a full tank of petrol, just before shaking hands :)

hehe wen i bought the rada, i actually had to bargain with the head of sales to get the best price :)
Head of sales aye, where do I get his number :P

Full tank of fuel is a golden idea, worst thing that could happen to me is to buy one these babies then not be able to afford the petrol to drive it....:cry:

IMO that approach isn't a good one. The leaving and coming back says "I really do want this car and I'm willing to keep coming back to try again."

You're much better off threatening the leave after their first offer and then giving a second pitch.

MJD26 I'm with you, there is no point walking away then coming back, they know by then that they've got you. Just go there with a price in mind, don't go over that price and give it your best shot. If they say no then so be it, you can't afford to go over the price you've set and they won't bargain lower.....it wasn't meant to be.

As far as the aftermarket warranty goes, you will be the luckiest man alive if they include this in the price. They will tell you that they can't control the price of the warranty and have no room to negotiate the price of it because it's supplied by an external company and they have to pay the same price for it regardless of what you pay. What that price is, however, varies wildy from dealer to dealer, some of them tell you that you will have to pay an extra $400 (not negotiable) for the warranty, others will tell you up to $1500. Personally I'd tend to believe that these warranties go for about $400-$500 per car. Whatever the cost of them, MitchellO is right, they aren't worth a ****** full of cold water. Seriously they cover nothing that will ever breakdown (eg. a Mazda ABS unit worth $4900, strangely not covered....curiously nether was the transmission, but the torque converter was, if it was considered to be "separate to the transmission" is that even possible?? Valves, lifters, rings, rods, CV Joints not covered because they are parts "subject to wear" engine peripherals - alternator, starter motor, radiator - not covered - then the parts that are covered can only be claimed to a maximum of $500) the only reason for finding out the actual cost of one of these warranties is so that you can automatically knock that much off the price of the car to NOT have it. I know you want peace of mind with your car, and I fully understand that, but having someone check the car over or buying a car with the compulsory 3 month statutory warranty (in Vic) is the best way to make sure you get this (although I think it only applies to cars less than 10 years old with less than 160,000kms on them). If you have the option of paying less for the car without the warranty then I wouldn't hesitate. If your parents have a say in what you're buying and want to make sure you've got some kind of come-back with the dealer (as suggested in your previous post) and insist on the warranty, show them the booklet that comes with the warranty and you will sway them.

wow thats a big chunk of text that i cant be bothered reading :P

if u do want an aftermarket warranty, expect to pay for it. when i bought mine, the warranty was from a separate section at the dealership, basically the after sales guy (think tinting, paint protection etc), so could not be negotiated in price.

for a car like that, in WA u'd get a 3 month warranty, which sorta just makes sure the car is roadworthy when it leaves the dealership, and u have to hope nothing major is on the way out.

dont go into it expecting too much, just because its a dealership doesnt mean u'll get everything thrown in, ok?

I thought car yards had to offer a warranty regardless of value or age? Ah well I'll worry about it when the day comes. Not like I'm any worse off without it, not like I'll get one from a private seller now is it.

I thought car yards had to offer a warranty regardless of value or age? Ah well I'll worry about it when the day comes. Not like I'm any worse off without it, not like I'll get one from a private seller now is it.

Nup, only offered on cars less than 10 years old and even then only if they have less than 160,000kms. If the car qualifies then it gets a warranty for 5000kms or 3 months, whichever happens first....I'm gonna annoy Spackbace with another wordy post, lol, but legislation is what I do, so if you're easily bored tune out now.....

Motor Car Traders Act Vic:

1) This section applies if a motor car trader sells a used motor car to a
person and the car-
(a) was manufactured not more than 10 years before the date it is sold;
and
(b) has been driven for less than 160 000 kilometres.
(2) The warranty set out in subsection (2A) is a part of the sale contract.
(2A) The motor car trader warrants that if a defect appears in the motor car
before the end of the warranty period, the motor car trader at her, his or its
own expense-
(a) will arrange for the car to be taken to a place where it can be
repaired or made good; and
(b) will repair or make good, or cause to be repaired or made good by
another motor car trader or by a qualified repairer, the defect so as
to place the car in a reasonable condition having regard to its age.
(2B) The warranty period is whichever of the following periods is the shorter-
(a) the period from when the car is delivered to the person buying it
until it has been driven for a further 5000 kilometres; or
(b) the period of 3 months from the day after the car is delivered to the
person buying it.

just a side note.. cars with more than 160 000 thou km, (not sure if its still less than 10yr old) come with a 1 month/1000km warrenty, this was the case when i bought my TH exec with 161 XXX on it ( i know damm it, but nothing has ever gone wrong with it) they were asking $8999 + on roads.. using the i'm here right now, cash in my pocket approach i got them down to $7690 drive away... not too shabby me thinks :) that car yard has a reputaion for being a bit dogey.. but my old TH now has 198 XXX on it.. i pretty much just gave it to dad rather than resell it..

just my 2 c..

just a side note.. cars with more than 160 000 thou km, (not sure if its still less than 10yr old) come with a 1 month/1000km warrenty

I'm guessing thats a Queensland thing, no such obligation in Vic.

maybe indeed.. i don't know if there is a limit on just how much above 160..

maybe indeed.. i don't know if there is a limit on just how much above 160..

A bit of research found Queensland Legislation:

Two types of statutory warranties apply:

A three month or 5,000 km warranty (whichever comes first), which applies to used cars with an odometer reading under 160,000 km and manufactured less than ten years before the sale date; and
A one month or 1,000 km warranty (whichever comes first), which applies to used cars with an odometer reading above 160,000 km or manufactured more than ten years before the sale date.

Victoria doesn't have the second type of warranty.

Thanks guys. I'm over warranty now, I've had a look through a couple of different ones accessible online and they all seem to conveniently leave out anything worth more than $20 to repair. I'd rather the extra cash off if anything.

Update, had a look at the green Xi today. What a POS!!:rant:

Paint was destroyed, half of the paint wasn't actually on the car anymore, bumpers, roof, boot, all wrecked. Seats were also ruined, even had the nerve to say for an extra $100 he could have the seats repaired to look like new again.

His excuse was this is what the sun does to a car over 10 years, I've never seen a car in worse condition paint wise.

So for a peace of advice, avoid MJ's Crazy Cars, they're the dodgy brothers.

/rant

avoid MJ's Crazy Cars, they're the dodgy brothers

Haha, MJ's Crazy Cars? Paint may not have been much good, seats are crap, but you are safe in the knowledge that you own a very rare "Crazy Verada" not many of them rolled off the production line.......the fact that you actually considered purchasing from a "Crazy" car yard is a little concerning Mate. However I drive past "Lucky Choice Autos" on a regular basis and they have been in business for years. I always have a mental image of them waiting til you've signed the contract, they hand you the keys and say "Sorry bad choice, this one's a total lemon, maybe your next choice will be lucky. Come back soon". MJ's Crazy Cars indeed!!

Oh well, back to the search or is the White one still on the cards?

IMO when buying a 10+ yrs old car you cant expect mint condition unless youre expected to pay top dollar.

However taking the general wear and tear into consideration when bargaining..its a buyers market. OF course not like the green POS you just inspected, however you can easily
find a bargain verada that needs a bit of TLC to bring it back to top condidtion :)

Update, had a look at the green Xi today. What a POS!!:rant:

Paint was destroyed, half of the paint wasn't actually on the car anymore, bumpers, roof, boot, all wrecked. Seats were also ruined, even had the nerve to say for an extra $100 he could have the seats repaired to look like new again.

That would explain why the picture was so low res and the car was wet, both hide the paint condition ;)

... So for a peace of advice, avoid MJ's Crazy Cars, they're the dodgy brothers. ...


Hmmm, there's a thought, perhaps there should be a sticky somewhere (perhaps even per state sub-forum) with a thread for "Avoid dealer XYZ because of ABC." and "Use dealer LTD because of 123" I know I have a couple I would be telling people to avoid around SA and a couple more I would suggest using.

Any mods feel it's a good idea to have such a "Good dealer bad dealer?" thread on forum or per state?

Hmmm, there's a thought, perhaps there should be a sticky somewhere (perhaps even per state sub-forum) with a thread for "Avoid dealer XYZ because of ABC." and "Use dealer LTD because of 123" I know I have a couple I would be telling people to avoid around SA and a couple more I would suggest using.

Any mods feel it's a good idea to have such a "Good dealer bad dealer?" thread on forum or per state?
No way. I got nailed by a mod for having a "do not go to ****** for suspension work" in my sig and was asked to remove it for possible "legal" reasons. So i seriously doubt they would create a stickied thread just to slag a dealer... Maybe one to say that you got good service perhaps but not to slag one.

No way. I got nailed by a mod for having a "do not go to ****** for suspension work" in my sig and was asked to remove it for possible "legal" reasons. So i seriously doubt they would create a stickied thread just to slag a dealer... Maybe one to say that you got good service perhaps but not to slag one.

There is no legal basis for individuals (or the forum) getting sued if the information / advice given remains level headed.

Eg.
It is fine and appropriate to say:
"I went to dealer ABC, I found they were completely rubbish. The lowest price they were willing to offer was high above redbook value and the vehicle itself was in very poor condition."

It is not fine and appropriate to say:
"Don't use dealer ABC because they're a giant pack of nazi butt holes!"

For reference of similar issues:
"2Clix Sues Whirlpool founder"
http://whirlpool.net.au/article.cfm/1753

and (not long later)
"2Clix drops legal action against Whirlpool"
http://www.itwire.com/content/view/14537/53/

Basically, you can say anything you want about someone as long as it is:
a) True.
b) To a reasonable extent "proovable"

This does not mean it has to be rock solid "beyond reasonable doubt" proof, but just that you have to be able to substantiate your claim that you went there and that your experience was as described.

Yes, you can end up with trouble once you open the forum up to such threads if the community doesn't self moderate, but I've found this forum to be reasonably well self moderating so far. :)

on the note of what mjd said, i wish they WP case went to court (as do many others), to get a definite line in the sand as to what can and cant be said!

Hmmm, there's a thought, perhaps there should be a sticky somewhere (perhaps even per state sub-forum) with a thread for "Avoid dealer XYZ because of ABC." and "Use dealer LTD because of 123"

I think the information could be useful to people looking for a car, for instance I know of a huge Auto Auction mob who operated in Melbourne and owned many of the big car dealers in the Dandenong/Frankston area and some dealers in the West. 3 good friends fell foul of their dodgy trading practises, luckily they went out of business and I couldn't have been happier than the day I drove through Dandenong and saw chains locking the gates and impound noticed forbidding the removal of their entire stock of cars. I'm not sure if it'd be a great idea to post "This dealer is a prick and should be avoided" type messages, but if posts could back-up their issues with factual information then I can't see why it would be a problem to make bad car dealers account for their actions.

If it helps anyone I know that Victoria has a listing of dealer issues as a public page with Consumer Affairs but this just lists court actions against dealers, not shady, underhanded, sleazebags who'd sell paint protection to their own grandmother.

http://online.justice.vic.gov.au/cav/bla-search-criteria?mode=M

As an addendum, the only reason that the forum, individuals or operators could ever possibly even get to the point of having a suit brought against them (whether that suit would even make it to court or not, and whether it would even win at court are two entirely different matters) was if all of the following criteria were met:

1. A statement was posted which contained untrue / inflamatory information about a given organisation.

2. The organisation in question found the post and beleived it to be causing detriment to their business.

3. The organisation put in a formal request to the moderators / operators to have the material removed (accompanied with reasoned explanation as to why; especially if the content appeared reasonable and not as per nazi example above)

4. The moderators received the formal request and chose to do nothing to action it ie:
4a. Did not respond to the original request at all OR
4b. Responded by not removing the comment but allowing it to stand without providing valid reason to the organisation

5. The organisation concerned felt that the reason provided was not valid or that the continued presence of that message would cause continued loss of income (or reputation).

6. The organisation could be buggered filing the paperwork and facing the negative press (ala 2Clix who will be lucky to do business with anyone "in the know" ever again).

With ANY one of those things missing, the suit could never be filed.

Even if the suit were filed, the probability of it ever actually reaching court is minute and could be averted through one simple act:
Remove the single comment (or multiple if many people commented in the same fashion) concerned.

If it did reach court, the organisation concerned has a hugely uphill battle to prove any losses (they must prove that loss of income / reputaton occured directly resulting from the statements made). If they pulled that off, it is then the burden of those who made the comments / allowed them to be made to prove that they were in fact true.

Short story of that big ramble there is that there is effectively zero risk in allowing controlled discussion of experience (good and bad) with dealers, repairers etc.

I think the information could be useful to people looking for a car, for instance I know of a huge Auto Auction mob who operated in Melbourne and owned many of the big car dealers in the Dandenong/Frankston area and some dealers in the West. 3 good friends fell foul of their dodgy trading practises, luckily they went out of business and I couldn't have been happier than the day I drove through Dandenong and saw chains locking the gates and impound noticed forbidding the removal of their entire stock of cars. I'm not sure if it'd be a great idea to post "This dealer is a prick and should be avoided" type messages, but if posts could back-up their issues with factual information then I can't see why it would be a problem to make bad car dealers account for their actions.

If it helps anyone I know that Victoria has a listing of dealer issues as a public page with Consumer Affairs but this just lists court actions against dealers, not shady, underhanded, sleazebags who'd sell paint protection to their own grandmother.

http://online.justice.vic.gov.au/cav/bla-search-criteria?mode=M

are you refering to "Auto Group" well i got it through their auction house??? bought my TF from them before they went out of business, the car was good very good... i sold it :(

are you refering to "Auto Group" well i got it through their auction house??? bought my TF from them before they went out of business, the car was good very good... i sold it :(

Yep, Auto Group Auctions (aka. Frankston Mitsubishi, aka. Dandenong Suzuki........) were, in my experience, blatantly dishonest and operated illegally in more than one instance. I honestly hope that the only people to lose-out in their bankruptcy were the owners and operators and not unsuspecting car buyers.

As a back-up for my statement, a mate bought a VT Senator Signature (yes I know, his own fault for buying a Holden) off Dandenong Suzuki for the sticker price, he traded in a Ford Escape which was, at the time, 2 years old. He applied for finance for part of the remaining cost and, after he had signed the contract and driven away in his new car, the dealer changed the amount of finance he had applied for because (and I'm not making this up) they had valued his Ford Escape as being the top of the range model, but realised after he had dropped it off that it was only a mid-range model, so they decided that the car was worth $2000 less and added that amount to his contract without his consent. The first he knew of it was when he received his paperwork from the finance company in the mail. To make matters worse, the car had been repaired after an accident and was poorly repaired (pre-purchase inspections people, it's $200 for huge peace of mind!!!). To resolve the issue took a billion phone calls, a visit from the Sydney based boss of Auto Group, and intervention from Consumer Affairs. The end result was good, he returned the Senator and got his Escape back after it had been fully detailed, but they weren't happy about it and only the threat of legal action (and the fact they had done the complete wrong thing) changed their mind.

I have other examples, but they've gone broke, it couldn't have happened to a more deserving bunch of pricks, end of story.

Frankston Mitsubishi is still in operation but is under a Jeff Wignal (runs a few dealership around the area) i think thats how his last name is spelt, went there early last year or something in search for a car for a friend, they car salesman said Auto Group is now history and they are and want no part of it now.

Oh yeah, I know Frankston Mitsubishi has re-opened next to Holden, I'd imagine there is nothing wrong with the place now, there are no branches of Auto Group left, so yeah, no sledge meant for the current Frankston Mitsubishi or any of the Dandenong car-yards. Didn't know Jeff Wignall owned it, but it has to be 100% improvement on the previous operators.

Back on topic for a moment (seeing as it was my fault it got dragged off in the first place):

How's the hunt hoing Lugo?
Found any more promising options?

Back on topic for a moment (seeing as it was my fault it got dragged off in the first place):

How's the hunt hoing Lugo?
Found any more promising options?

Totally missed this post lol Sorry.

Umm I've got a few lined up to go have a look at. Theres a KE Xi and 2 TH Sports (One dealer, totally stock in silver, other private, has 18" alloys :D) I'm planning on looking at this weekend. Theres also another KE Xi that I'm considering having a look at, same deal with a KF Xi (both a bit out of my price range but hey I can try talking them down can't I? :P)

Last up theres a TJ Solara I'm considering going past this weekend if I have time, and a TJ Si which I might have a look at next week if its still around.

Thats about it for now, Verada is still my first pick, but I'd be happy with a TH Sports, particularly if I can get one under $6k, I can always add the verada bits to it (except climate control).

Totally missed this post lol Sorry.

Umm I've got a few lined up to go have a look at. Theres a KE Xi and 2 TH Sports (One dealer, totally stock in silver, other private, has 18" alloys :D) I'm planning on looking at this weekend. Theres also another KE Xi that I'm considering having a look at, same deal with a KF Xi (both a bit out of my price range but hey I can try talking them down can't I? :P)

Last up theres a TJ Solara I'm considering going past this weekend if I have time, and a TJ Si which I might have a look at next week if its still around.

Thats about it for now, Verada is still my first pick, but I'd be happy with a TH Sports, particularly if I can get one under $6k, I can always add the verada bits to it (except climate control).

should have next Tuesday (15th) off work and next weekend (19th and 20th), so if u line up viewing list, we can go car shopping.

ohh yeah, just a reminder you can get all the luxury features you want in a car, just remember insurance will also come at a price.
Also, insurance may be different between the 3.0 and 3.5 so be weary.

should have next Tuesday (15th) off work and next weekend (19th and 20th), so if u line up viewing list, we can go car shopping.
Alrighty how's this sound, I'll scout em this weekend with dad (hey he wants to join in lol) and if theres any serious contenders we can have a look on Tuesday so I can get some opinions based on experience? :D


ohh yeah, just a reminder you can get all the luxury features you want in a car, just remember insurance will also come at a price.
Also, insurance may be different between the 3.0 and 3.5 so be weary.
I had a look at that, with my insurance it'll cost me $623 to full comp a KE or KF Xi, and the same $623 to full comp a TH Sports. Haven't checked with TJ's yet, but I don't expect it to be too much different.

*edit. $608 for the TJ's.

I don't plan on buying a car without the 3.5L so I'm not too worried about those differences.

boozer, add me to msn, my IM is in my profile :)

I had a look at that, with my insurance it'll cost me $623 to full comp a KE or KF Xi, and the same $623 to full comp a TH Sports. Haven't checked with TJ's yet, but I don't expect it to be too much different.

*edit. $608 for the TJ's.

WHAT WHAT WHAT??? You're 17, by my estimation that makes you an L-Plater in Vic, P-Plater at the very least, how are you getting cheaper insurance than me??? lol. This is not right!! I'm paying $792 to insure a KH Ei. Can I claim discrimination when 17 year olds get cheaper insurance than me?? Is this.....insurance-ism or something? I'm rating one, in my late 20's and I'm being ripped!!! I'd speak to my local member, but this is far too important, I'm going to ask for it to mentioned when parliament sits next "Next item on the agenda is the price of Lorlorpy's fully comprehensive insurance policy" WTF?? People is this normal??

Oh by the way, good luck with your search Lugo, since thats what the thread was all about, lol, let us know how you go.

have you considered getting a pre purchase inspect done through an independant mechanic??? i did and it turned out to be the best $135 i ever spent

Lorlorpy, its a family deal thing with AAMI. Sucks to be you haha.


have you considered getting a pre purchase inspect done through an independant mechanic??? i did and it turned out to be the best $135 i ever spent
I might have it done in the future on one before I put all the paperwork through, but I'll see whats what before I decide on that, good advice though.

Lorlorpy, its a family deal thing with AAMI. Sucks to be you haha.


I might have it done in the future on one before I put all the paperwork through, but I'll see whats what before I decide on that, good advice though.


Family deal? Right, thats it, I want a new family!!!!

As for the pre-purchase inspection, check how comprehensive they are, try to find one that includes things like a compression test and things of that nature. They usually cost about $200, but they come with a detailed report that will kill anything RACV will put together, you will also be charged the same sort of money (give or take) for an RACV test that only does visual/auditory testing and a drive of the car (I think they take the wheels off to check brake components). I used a mob that came out in a little van and ripped the entire car apart, took them 2-3 hours and it cost something like $220, bargain.....I did get complaints from the dealer who cracked the sads about them dismantling the car in the yard, but what can you do?? If I can find their card I'll post the name. They got so finicky that they mentioned a missing trim-stud in the passenger footwell under the glovebox. But compression test results were a huge relief, as well as sampling of trans, brake and engine oil cleanliness, checks for computer codes, etc.

Family deal? Right, thats it, I want a new family!!!!

As for the pre-purchase inspection, check how comprehensive they are, try to find one that includes things like a compression test and things of that nature. They usually cost about $200, but they come with a detailed report that will kill anything RACV will put together, you will also be charged the same sort of money (give or take) for an RACV test that only does visual/auditory testing and a drive of the car (I think they take the wheels off to check brake components). I used a mob that came out in a little van and ripped the entire car apart, took them 2-3 hours and it cost something like $220, bargain.....I did get complaints from the dealer who cracked the sads about them dismantling the car in the yard, but what can you do?? If I can find their card I'll post the name. They got so finicky that they mentioned a missing trim-stud in the passenger footwell under the glovebox. But compression test results were a huge relief, as well as sampling of trans, brake and engine oil cleanliness, checks for computer codes, etc.

hmmm they sound like the guys i should get to check out my new car once i get the fundage sorted :D

Lorlorpy, its a family deal thing with AAMI. Sucks to be you haha.

What deal is this? I'm with aami but have never seen such a thing?

What deal is this? I'm with aami but have never seen such a thing?
I'm not sure tbh, its something dad organises. All in all its in his name, but theres no excess fees beyond male under 25 + standard excess if I bugger up. I don't have to be listed as the main driver, there isn't one as such.

Oh yeah I've looked at a similar thing, but decided against it just in case they cried foul if something were to happen. The cheapest way I have found to comp insure is to insure in parents name but list me as a driver. Saves $300 that way, and ensures no hassles.

Oh yeah I've looked at a similar thing, but decided against it just in case they cried foul if something were to happen. The cheapest way I have found to comp insure is to insure in parents name but list me as a driver. Saves $300 that way, and ensures no hassles.

Hmmm, I'm a bit past this kind of thing.....even when I was 18 I think they'd have told me to chew dick, they wouldn't risk their rating (probably a smart move, I drive like s%*t)

Update, had a look at a few more cars today, properly took only the one out though, didn't find much else of interest.

Drive Link = KE Xi Verada (http://www.drive.com.au/used/search/detail.aspx?id=3982481&pg=1&pp=12&d=0&nv=1&sg=-429883399&pt=1&action=moreinfo#DealerDetails)

Its listed for $7900, as you've noticed, but I've noticed a few things to wack the price down hopefully enough should I choose to go for this. To kick off its actually a Nov 96 KE, not 97 as listed, they based the year off Rego. Its done 214,000 clicks, but its got the full service history, is one owner, and is one of the smoothest cars I've been in (felt smoother than the past couple of Camry's we've had from new).

It does however need a little bit of work, mechanically it appears A1, ran most of the tests suggested in earlier posts except the abs one (off the top of my head) so that all seems fine.

Its got at an estimate 30-40 stone chips on the front of the bonnet and roof above the windscreen (done mostly highway k's from Shepparton to Brunswick 5 days a week, dealer knows the owners quite well apparently, not the only car on the lot from the original owners) so I'm looking into the touch up costs from a place not too far away that specialises in touching up stone chips and marks. Also has a scratch about 5cm long on the top of the rear left guard and some of the paint is off on the little bump strip in front of the drivers door.

Some of the chrome on the front bumper is beginning to bubble interestingly, which is only noticeable from close up, and the electric Ariel is buggered. Inside its fantastic, apart from a little bit of wear on the drivers seat (just a couple of marks), only real knock about the interior electronics is the steering wheel audio controls, which don't really work unless you push your thumb through the wheel, not a biggie though, not like I'm gonna keep the stock hu forever.

Otherwise, everything works and is in great nick, apart from the chipping the paint is great, not faded at all, the front passenger and rear seats are spotless, not fading, dash looks spotless and it's rolling with a full years rego.

So yeah, questions, with 214k clicks on the odo, what should I be weary of servicing wise? Coming up due for anything? I'm not particually concerned about the mechanical side of things, the engine bay is spotless, its got its service history, drives like its new almost and the compression test suggested appear to fair well (0-50 in 1st, lift off, took about 2 seconds to get back to say 35km/h on flat road, good?). I'm not the expert so you guys tell me if theres anything I should be checking out. Thinking about booking an RACV inspection.

http://img.drive.com.au/drive_images/dealer/belmormot/1573_3_m.jpg http://img.drive.com.au/drive_images/dealer/belmormot/1573_1_m.jpg http://img.drive.com.au/drive_images/dealer/belmormot/1573_6_m.jpg http://img.drive.com.au/drive_images/dealer/belmormot/1573_5_m.jpg
Sorry guys, biggest pics I have, didn't think to take any.

cheers.

Turns out I'm looking at a grand minimum to get all the stone chips fixed up (requires stripping back and respraying the panels), so I guess I'll rule this one out too, don't think they're gonna sell me the car anywhere near cheap enough to justify that cost.

Back to the drawing board!

I need opinions on this one:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/100_3810.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/100_3812.jpg
*edit: Its a May '99 TH Magna Sports.

In the pic it looks like its in great nick, and as a whole it ain't bad. Those are 18"s its sitting on with decent tread (maybe 12 months old). Its done 145,000 clicks and has the history for the last couple of services. Needs some paint work on the front bumper near the corner of the left headlight, the rear left corner of the rear bumper, and theres a scrape mark about 2.5m long across the front left guard and passenger door, looks like its just through the clear coat. Inside the window control surrounds are worn and will need respraying (was going to anyway), wheel is a bit worn, and theres a thin crack in the bottom section of the center console (will need replacing). Window tint is also peeling of badly on the front passenger window. Air con also needs re-gassing.

Based on that information, what would you guys say its worth? Its listed for $6800. Wouldn't mind having someone pop down with me one day to have a look if anyones interested? Its in Caulfield South. I've already seen it (took the photos above), just want someone who knows 3rd gens well to have a look before I'm too serious about it.

Cheers guys.

Air con also needs re-gassing.

Be careful with this, I got cheated on my Barina, which the dealer told me "just needs a regas". 2 weeks later it wasn't working again, and a check (which cost me $120) found that the compressor was leaking. A $1000 repair job I decided not to go ahead with.

If the A/C need regassing it has to have a leak. They don't just lose gas. And you cant just "top" them up. So there will be bigger issues with the A/C... And it will cost $$$.

Be careful with this, I got cheated on my Barina, which the dealer told me "just needs a regas". 2 weeks later it wasn't working again, and a check (which cost me $120) found that the compressor was leaking. A $1000 repair job I decided not to go ahead with.
Well its private, I wasn't told it need a re-gas, just doesn't feel as cold as some of the others I've been in. So I'm guessing it needs one. $125 at my mechanics to get it done.


If the A/C need regassing it has to have a leak. They don't just lose gas. And you cant just "top" them up. So there will be bigger issues with the A/C... And it will cost $$$.
How many $$$ are we talking? Its not like it doesn't work at all, its just not as good as what the other 3rd gens I've look at are like, its still better than no a/c at all.

How many $$$ are we talking? Its not like it doesn't work at all, its just not as good as what the other 3rd gens I've look at are like, its still better than no a/c at all.
Im only talking in general. It may have nothing wrong with it at all. Did you drive it with the A/C on or was it only at standstill? I ask because the A/C always feels cooler on the move as air is running over the condenser.

You'd definitely be better to test it on a hotter day so that the AC can't cheat :P

Im only talking in general. It may have nothing wrong with it at all. Did you drive it with the A/C on or was it only at standstill? I ask because the A/C always feels cooler on the move as air is running over the condenser.
Driving, didn't really try it at all while parked.

Lugo, honestly I think $6800 for a car with 145,000 and in the condition you describe is probably within the ballpark, The scrape on the side may just cut out with a good polish, If you go for worst case cost with the other stuff, then max $80 to re-tint the passenger window (as long as they can match the old tint, otherwise $200 to re-tint the whole car) you could have the bumpers re-sprayed at a later date if you want it done (ask around the site and see if anyone knows a panel beater who won't charge the earth) price a centre console from a wrecker and then try the guy out and see if he'll drop the price to something closer to $6000 to pay for the bits you've got to buy.

The car looks great, the color and wheels make it look fantastic, if all the mechanicals check out then I reckon its worth the money. If you're happy to add a few of the Verada options as you can afford them, rather than looking for a Verada with more km's than this car for the same sort of price, then I reckon you'll do okay. Personally I'd take lower km's and a service history over leather and climate control anyday. Good Luck.

Is it manual or tiptronic?

its got a tow bar, make sure the auto is alright, heavy towing + auto gearbox = short life for gear box based on some "Used Car" articles

It does look good! The a/c compressor can be expensive if you need to buy a new one, but you can pick up s/h ones for a couple of hundred ( if req. ). The k's are good, should have plenty of life left in it. Looks promising

pre-purchase inspection should discover any sort of wear and tear from towing. Most people who tow on a regular basis or tow long distances don't do it with a FWD, they just don't tow as well as a RWD Falcon/Common-dore so you may find it's been for a garden trailer or a jet ski. But best to get it checked by someone who will back it up with a report.

Alright this is going to sound weird but scrap the idea of the TH Sports, went and had a look at a KE Ei Verada tonight in the same sort of price range, and my lord was it a nicer car to drive. Felt much smoother, is in great condition, needs a couple of things doing which will be done when the roadworthy is done, but overall looks really nice. If I had to pick between the two it'd be the Ei anyday, so as nice as the TH was, its no comparison to the Verada.

This is the one I'm talking about:
Carsales (http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/MITSUBISHI/VERADA/details.aspx?__sid=1175DD3570D8&Cr=8&__Ns=pCar_PrivateSpecialFlag_Int32|1||pCar_ImageCo unt_Int32|1||pCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime|1&State=Victoria&distance=25&silo=1003&seot=0&PriceMax=7500&__Nne=20&Model=VERADA&R=5211509&__N=4294964597+82+443+4294964081+834+285+257&Make=MITSUBISHI&state_id=82&trecs=20)

http://liveimages.carsales.com.au/private/3122310.jpg

Has done 179,000 clicks, but really doesn't feel it and is clean inside and out. Has a couple off really minor nicks on the back bumper from trolley bumping or something, but thats nothing really. What do we think?

Just took a rather bad hit with the insurance on all of this too...turns out the deal I was on was only good because I was on my L's with a fully licensed driver always in the car. Now, to insure say this KE Ei, I'd be up for about $98 a month full comp, with a $2500 excess if I crunch it. Otherwise its $2300 with a $950 excess (under 25) or $550 ext third party. Think for this I'll go with the $98 a month on the $2.5k excess, and just hope to god I can work it out if something bad happens, still in my mind is better than busting a $6000 car and having a wreck in the backyard. Life's tough lol

hmm you really should work out what you want... 1 minute you were dead set on only an Ei, and because of that you were getting lousy cars for your money, and now you want an Ei, but just going on the first Ei you see...

The reason the others were lousy was they charge more for the leather + sunroof, just have a better look around!

Alright this is going to sound weird but scrap the idea of the TH Sports, went and had a look at a KE Ei Verada tonight in the same sort of price range, and my lord was it a nicer car to drive. Felt much smoother, is in great condition, needs a couple of things doing which will be done when the roadworthy is done, but overall looks really nice. If I had to pick between the two it'd be the Ei anyday, so as nice as the TH was, its no comparison to the Verada.

Has done 179,000 clicks, but really doesn't feel it and is clean inside and out. Has a couple off really minor nicks on the back bumper from trolley bumping or something, but thats nothing really. What do we think?

Looks quite nice. And has much nicer stock wheels than the KF (what the hell were Mitsu thinking between the KE and KH?)


Just took a rather bad hit with the insurance on all of this too...turns out the deal I was on was only good because I was on my L's with a fully licensed driver always in the car. Now, to insure say this KE Ei, I'd be up for about $98 a month full comp, with a $2500 excess if I crunch it. Otherwise its $2300 with a $950 excess (under 25) or $550 ext third party. Think for this I'll go with the $98 a month on the $2.5k excess, and just hope to god I can work it out if something bad happens, still in my mind is better than busting a $6000 car and having a wreck in the backyard. Life's tough lol

I figured there must have been something up when you quoted the figure you did before. Still, $1200 per year for full comp straight on your P's is good, who are you getting that from? I'm looking at $1300 for full comp on my greens and thats with a $1700 excess.

hmm you really should work out what you want... 1 minute you were dead set on only an Ei, and because of that you were getting lousy cars for your money, and now you want an Ei, but just going on the first Ei you see...

The reason the others were lousy was they charge more for the leather + sunroof, just have a better look around!
I was set on an Xi originally because thats what I was told to look for in my budget, I've looked around, and as it appears within my budget the only Xi's around aren't really in good nick, so I figured perhaps I should aim a bit lower, so I went on to look at the Magna's of similar age. These seemed alright, but given a Ei verada can be had for what is basically the same money, I just thought, well why buy a magna? I can't make up my mind on what I want before I know the best I can expect in a good condition for my money.


Looks quite nice. And has much nicer stock wheels than the KF (what the hell were Mitsu thinking between the KE and KH?)
Its because its an Ei, the Xi wheels on the KE and KF were terrible, KF Ei has the same wheels as the KE Ei, they're more or less identical cars.


I figured there must have been something up when you quoted the figure you did before. Still, $1200 per year for full comp straight on your P's is good, who are you getting that from? I'm looking at $1300 for full comp on my greens and thats with a $1700 excess.
Yeah, I was beginning to think it was too good to be true too, and it was! Best quote I have so far is $1283 a year ($238 upfront + 10 monthly payments of $104) with a $450 excess, covers dad and I as main drivers, and anyone else as occasional. Seems as good as I'll get, unless I risk it on 3rd party. Original quotes were from AAMI, this one is from Budget Direct.

Yeah, I was beginning to think it was too good to be true too, and it was! Best quote I have so far is $1283 a year ($238 upfront + 10 monthly payments of $104) with a $450 excess, covers dad and I as main drivers, and anyone else as occasional. Seems as good as I'll get, unless I risk it on 3rd party.

bit off topic but who was that through? mines through aami they charge 986 with a 1800 excess (under 21) that was for my TH at 9,000 and with the wheels, stereo and modifications to the value of $500 listed.

Just took a rather bad hit with the insurance on all of this too...

Contact Just Cars, I've found them to be pretty good value for younger drivers and "high risk" drivers (like me).

After I'd lost my licence nobody would insure me for less than $2k per year and some quotes went over the $4k per year mark (for a car insured at $7500!) Just Cars offered me $680 per year full comprehensive with a lower excess than all of the others.

It may not work out as well for you because you have a much shorter driving experience (Just Cars weight driving time without claim very heavily) but it's definately worth a look.

bit off topic but who was that through? mines through aami they charge 986 with a 1800 excess (under 21) that was for my TH at 9,000 and with the wheels, stereo and modifications to the value of $500 listed.
Budget Direct.

Double checking Just Cars now, looked before, they weren't good, maybe I missed something :P

please dont use online quotes, useless when you're under 21

Double checking Just Cars now, looked before, they weren't good, maybe I missed something :P

I think they're at their best when you're an older, more experienced driver but with a bit of the wrong kind of experience. You know, the kind where you are required by law to ride a push bike for 6 months, lol.

Budget Direct.

????

This is the garbage quote the online thing whipped up for me:

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/5/picture6ln6.png

????

This is the garbage quote the online thing whipped up for me:
Wow, must be a big dif between insuring a KE Ei and a KH Ei :confused:

I did my quote as dad and I being main drivers, me being main on my own was $1800. Doesn't really make a difference to me though, I'm still covered, thats what counts :P Will ring them tomorrow to work out the finer points.

Wow, must be a big dif between insuring a KE Ei and a KH Ei :confused:

I did my quote as dad and I being main drivers, me being main on my own was $1800. Doesn't really make a difference to me though, I'm still covered, thats what counts :P Will ring them tomorrow to work out the finer points.

I'm on 3rd party atm (AAMI) and my best full comp quote (also from AAMI) was $1300, but if I put my parents on the policy, it drops to $1000, still more than yours. Strange....

I think I might call AAMI, see what they will do over the phone.

I'm on 3rd party atm (AAMI) and my best full comp quote (also from AAMI) was $1300, but if I put my parents on the policy, it drops to $1000, still more than yours. Strange....

I think I might call AAMI, see what they will do over the phone.
Don't forget its affected by your area, afaik my suburb is a lowish crime area, and my car will be garaged at night. That drops the price because of the reduced chance of theft or damage where its normally parked.

????

This is the garbage quote the online thing whipped up for me:



Hmmm, I just did the online quote and it came in almost identical (75 cents cheaper) than my current policy with RACV......and here I was thinking I was getting ripped-off by RACV.


hmm you really should work out what you want... 1 minute you were dead set on only an Ei, and because of that you were getting lousy cars for your money, and now you want an Ei, but just going on the first Ei you see...

The reason the others were lousy was they charge more for the leather + sunroof, just have a better look around!


Lugo, go with whichever car you enjoy more, if the Verada is more your thing and you like driving it then base your decision on that (and the condition of the car obviously). It's hardly unsusual that you've gone out to buy your first car and can't make up your mind, lol, everybody has been there. At least you've narrowed it down to a Mitsubishi. If you go and test drive 100 cars before you decide on one then so be it, it's only your time its taking up and, lets face it, the search is half the fun. It's not like you're gonna keep the car forever, if you come by some cash in a year then upgrade. But the comment is a good one, if you had bought the Sports and then saw the Verada you may have been dissappointed. Hunt around, drive one of everything, check out the features of each and see what you like/dislike about each, there will always be cars on the market. With the Ei all you're losing from your original wish list is a sunroof (which you said you could live without) and leather (which you can always add at a later date anyway). Your options are definately improving, from the start of this post you've gone from wanting to settle on a Verada with more than 200,000kms to having the choice of a Sports and a Verada both with lower Km's and both seem to be nice cars.

As far as your talk about insurance, if the cost of full comp is $98 per month then work out your budget on that price, like you said even if it costs you $1200 a year you can't afford to replace the car if it gets smashed so the peace of mind is worth the expense even if the cost was $2000 spread over 12 months. Plus if you don't smash it then your premium can only improve from there and next year you're looking at less for full comp.

Thanks Lorlorpy for the long post, I'm almost settled I think, I've driven an Xi and Ei verada, and whilst I love the look of the leather, I'm beginning to think the Ei seats are more comfortable..wouldn't knock back leather tho! Umm sunroof as it turns out isn't so great for me, drops the headroom a bit, and being a tall person, thats kinda bad.

If the insurance I just worked out tonight works out to be what it is I'll go with them I think, the $100 a month gives great piece of mind and if **** does happen, at least I won't be left with a wreck in the backyard.

Tbh I was a little unsure about the price of this Ei, being low to mid 6's, but from having a look around, there aren't any cheaper atm, and the Xi's I've seen for that or less haven't been in good nick. To top it off, any of the magnas with the things I want (air bag [one of the main reasons I'm put off the Sports], abs, cruise, power windows) cost more than this Ei anyway. So if insurance does work out how I'm praying it will with Budget Direct, I think I might make an offer on this Ei.

I find I always do this when buying something valuble, chop and change a million times, but normally it pays off, and I end up happy with what I have, hopefully this will be another of those moments :D

Thanks heaps for the help so far guys, its really really really appreciated.

Back on the km's thing, it is sitting on 179k's atm, is there anything due at 180? cause I might not be able to service it straight away, might have to hold off till 185ish when I have the money for a standard service + tranny.

Don't forget its affected by your area, afaik my suburb is a lowish crime area, and my car will be garaged at night. That drops the price because of the reduced chance of theft or damage where its normally parked.

According to my dad, our area is really low on the risk scale, so I don't reckon that's it.

According to my dad, our area is really low on the risk scale, so I don't reckon that's it.

Can be affected by thousands of things, the number of accidents in Ei's may be different in NSW (Lugo and I are in Vic) plus you guys can get your licence a year earlier and last time I looked NSW still has .02 restriction on your P's (this may have changed) where Vic is .00. I know it sounds weird but all of this stuff affects what insurance companies charge because it increases the risk. When I was living in SA I was paying a fortune to insure a Mazda MX6 Turbo (Nearly $1300 per year), when I moved to Vic just by changing the address/state my premium dropped to $1000. I queried it and was told that Vic was a lower risk state because in SA you could drive at 16, where Vic is 18, the BAC limit was .08 (at the time, not sure what it is now) and the whole licencing system in SA (where your driving instructor decides whether you pass or fail, there is no RTA person sitting in the car with you on your test) was apparently open to corruption and didn't sit well with insurance companies (their explanation not mine) this meant that there were more accidents in SA than in Vic. Just dumb but meant an increase in premiums. Definately ring around and find out.

I had to pay $2000 to insure a supercharged VX Calais for the first year I had it. I made the car dealer ring around and get me insurance before I agreed to buy it because I'd been naughty and lost my licence a couple of times so every insurance company I rang laughed at me. They found Swan insurance for $2000, once that first year was finished with I rang RACV and they told me that because I'd had insurance for 9 of the past 12 months and hadn't had an accident I could get rating 1 for $880. Worth ringing around and don't necessarily believe that whole "budget" name. As far as I'm aware the AAMI family discount thing works so that you can start on the same rating as your parents. Rating 1 with you as a listed driver should work out cheaper surely??

last time I looked NSW still has .02 restriction on your P's (this may have changed) where Vic is .00.

That's been changed for a few years I think, must have .00 to drive.


As far as I'm aware the AAMI family discount thing works so that you can start on the same rating as your parents. Rating 1 with you as a listed driver should work out cheaper surely??

Unfortunately my parents are with NRMA, who wanted twice as much (with online quotes anyway) than AAMI. When I get time I'm going to ring around and see if I can find a better quote.

I haven't bothered to ring around as yet, but based on the online quotes RACV was good at all, Just Cars wasn't and Allianz wasn't either. Dad went through all the deals with AAMI over the phone and like I said the best way from them was $98 a month with a $2.5k excess. If this budget direct place is accurate, I end up paying roughly the same per year as AAMI (little bit more), but only have a $450 excess to cope with if I crunch the car.

Is there anyone else people would recommend me trying?

Back on the km's thing, it is sitting on 179k's atm, is there anything due at 180? cause I might not be able to service it straight away, might have to hold off till 185ish when I have the money for a standard service + tranny.

yeah im pretty sure it would be 185k however id still change the oli and filter straight away incase it is a bit ordinary or they just used cheap crap in it because they were selling it. New oil and filter is about the 40-50 mark but it could make a difference espically if it has cheap nasty oil currently

And I'd be prepared for a timing belt change in the near future.

yeah im pretty sure it would be 185k however id still change the oli and filter straight away incase it is a bit ordinary or they just used cheap crap in it because they were selling it. New oil and filter is about the 40-50 mark but it could make a difference espically if it has cheap nasty oil currently
Yeah, I think I'd get that done as soon as I had the cash, probably the start of feb. Won't do too many k's inbetween now and then anyway.


And I'd be prepared for a timing belt change in the near future.
Yeah only 20k's away, could be ages away, might not be, depends on a bit I spose. Our mechanic says thats about $500 or $600 to do on a 3.5L. Not as bad as I expected, but still expensive.

Out of curiosity, I've forgotten to check but does the KE Ei have remote boot release on the remote? It's got ABS yeah?

Budget Direct.
Double checking Just Cars now, looked before, they weren't good, maybe I missed something :P


????
This is the garbage quote the online thing whipped up for me:


Have you tried this site:

http://www.ecarinsurance.com.au/

I heard them advertised on the radio and they seem to be pretty thorough with the online quoting (although I didn't make it to the end of it, they black-flagged me when I put in that I'd lost 12 points on my licence) but they reckon they can guarantee the cheapest quote.....I'm not sure how they guarantee it, they probably refuse to deal with anybody high risk so it may be a waste for a P-Plater to apply, but I thought it was worth asking.

I'd imagine they're a broker and hunt for the cheapest insurance, a great way to go even if this mob refuse you insurance, check with brokers in the Yellow Pages and see if they can find you cheaper insurance.

Well in addition to having a rubbish website, they came out $600 more expensive than AAMI for me.

Turns out budget direct won't give me the deal I worked out online under the exact conditions listed online, so their online quote is bull****.

ING looks alright if I register the car in dads name with insurance under his name covering me too, but we're confirming this over the phone. Otherwise its AAMI with the $96 odd a month with $2.5k excess, which then I get a rating for. I'm buggered if I know how all the previous insurance worked with me now.

give Real insurance (http://www.realinsurance.com.au/) a try. Back in June last year, just bought my car, 38 yr old on my L's and no one wanted to deal with me to insure the TF (well not strictly true, RAA and AAMI would, for around the $2k per year mark).

Real hooked me up, full comprehensive agreed value of $6,000 (paid $3200 for it), learner owner driver, $43 per month, excess of $1500 ($300 standard, $1200 inexperienced driver)

Don't know what they like when it comes to paying out, haven't had to deal with that yet, though the free windscreen is going in, in a month or so guess I find out then lol

Well in addition to having a rubbish website, they came out $600 more expensive than AAMI for me.
Haha, oh well at least they offered you insurance, they told me that, due to rejection "reason number 71" I was too high of a risk to insure, shhh don't tell RACV, they think I'm a star!!.......guess it was worth a try.
On the off chance that an ecarinsurance employee is reading this, your ad lies!! Guess you can't trust anything recommended to you in a radio ad between Race 2 and Race 3 at Moonee Valley, who'd have thunk?

Turns out budget direct won't give me the deal I worked out online under the exact conditions listed online, so their online quote is bull****
Hmmm, I have more than a passing sense of deja vu, I'm sure someone foretold of this possibility. Oh wait, here 'tis.........

please dont use online quotes, useless when you're under 21
Wow, thats some kind of Nostradamus type s**t just there!! :bowrofl:

Lugo, listen to the people Fella, they know stuff!! lol

SA TFer, you just might be an absolute legend! I ran an online quote, in my name, me listed as the owner and primary driver (mum and dad secondary, makes no difference to price, just added for convenience), excess $1200 and I pay $76.57 a month. That'd be the best of both worlds, I'm insured and get a rating, I get a decent excess (not extreme) and because its in my name I can't get dodgied by the insurance company if I make a mistake.

Before I get my hopes up too high I'll ring Real tomorrow, and see if what I've got is correct, and if it is I'd be ecstatic! Then its just make an offer on the car and hopefully it all goes my way...but one step at a time :D

Thanks for the suggestion man, I might just owe you one big time!

edit* Only issue I've encountered is I might not be able to get insurance with them until my 18th, which is ok, once I get the car home I'll just continue to drive the TR till my 18th then organise the insurance.

Alright, Real insurance prices are exactly what the quote is, which is fantastic, but I can't insure it until my 18th, which is 3 and a half weeks away. So now what I'm deciding between, is a cover note to get it home, 3rd party to get it home and cover me slightly over the next few weeks, or full comp then a refund on my 18th. Suggestions?

Not sure if you have bought the vehicle, but be very careful about the transmission condition at that age, if its automatic. If its manual its a little bit more safer but get receipts of work completed or things that have been repaired.

200K is a state-of-mind if the car has been well looked after, serviced at the correct intervals and taken care of it should be fine. Make sure you looked for rust and ANY sign of paint peeling, as at that age, one spot of peeling, will peel in that major area.

Listen for noise's, look for leaks, test the over-drive buttons and transmission gears etc etc

Good luck with it.

Thanks russian, I haven't bought the car yet, I'm yet to make an offer, might be doing that tonight, the owner is at work atm. Its got 179,000km's on it, owners have at it since 2000 (1997 model) and he doesn't appear like the type to be a lead foot in it. No tow bar either, so the transmission has only pulled the car around, can only be a good thing I guess. Changes gears smoothly and idles smooth so I'd image the transmission is pretty good, will get it serviced when I get the car serviced none the less.

Paint is perfect more or less, couple of nicks on the back bumper from shopping trolley's as expected, should be able to get them touched up for less than $100 by a touch up place at an estimate. To suggest how minor those nicks are, you can't see them in the photos, its that small.

So yeah, I'm happy with the car, only thing its short of I believe is one remote, but they're only about $45 new anyway so I'm not too fussed about that.

Insurance wise, what do people think the go would be for the next few weeks? 3rd party to cover it going around the block say once a week for the next few weeks, a cover note just to bring it home then run it in the backyard, or something else?

Thanks russian, I haven't bought the car yet, I'm yet to make an offer, might be doing that tonight, the owner is at work atm. Its got 179,000km's on it, owners have at it since 2000 (1997 model) and he doesn't appear like the type to be a lead foot in it. No tow bar either, so the transmission has only pulled the car around, can only be a good thing I guess. Changes gears smoothly and idles smooth so I'd image the transmission is pretty good, will get it serviced when I get the car serviced none the less.

Paint is perfect more or less, couple of nicks on the back bumper from shopping trolley's as expected, should be able to get them touched up for less than $100 by a touch up place at an estimate. To suggest how minor those nicks are, you can't see them in the photos, its that small.

So yeah, I'm happy with the car, only thing its short of I believe is one remote, but they're only about $45 new anyway so I'm not too fussed about that.

Insurance wise, what do people think the go would be for the next few weeks? 3rd party to cover it going around the block say once a week for the next few weeks, a cover note just to bring it home then run it in the backyard, or something else?

Sounds good, just check the colour of the tranny oil, engine oil which is simple and a good indicator.

I would full-comp it as its a bigger investment and would want to be covered for any unexpected accident, 3rd party only covers the other car if damaged and then you are left with nothing. Fire and theft is handy but its really a personal choice, depending on how much you are going to drive it. Accidents are unexpected and can hit at the worse times, good luck with it all, hope it turns into a good and reliable investment!

So yeah, I'm happy with the car, only thing its short of I believe is one remote, but they're only about $45 new anyway so I'm not too fussed about that.

Mine came with no remotes, picked one up on eBay for $51 delivered, easy fix!

With regards to your quote, will your car be parked in a garage? I ran a quote with real (nice quote system actually), and it spat out $2700.

Mine came with no remotes, picked one up on eBay for $51 delivered, easy fix
Yeah atm you can get brand new ones for about $43 delivered. :D


With regards to your quote, will your car be parked in a garage? I ran a quote with real (nice quote system actually), and it spat out $2700.
The quote for real, was done with me as the person taking out the insurance, me as the main driver (Probationary licence 0 yrs), garaged at night, private use, no finance, immobiliser fitted, metallic paint, and my parents and sister as other regular drivers (all older than me so it doesn't affect my premium at all). Set the excess to $1200 and its covered for market value. Works out to $76ish a month. Pretty good I reckon, especially in my name at 18.

UPDATE!

Alrighty I had a look a a couple of cars today, a TF Altera with some goodies and a pretty much factory TE Altera.

TF
Pics:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/1381_1.jpghttp://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/1a84_1.jpg

Done 174 clicks give or take a few, is a Sep 97 build, 18" Azura mags, pedders super lows, alteza grille (first Ive heard of these), Tinted windows (looks like darkest legal), Alpine MP3 headunit, full service history and all the usual Altera bits and bobs. Price is in around mid 6's, not worked out as a definite yet. Body is straight, no dings, one tiny mark from a high gutter on the rear bar.

TE:
Pics:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/3108066.jpghttp://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/AMC/3108052.jpg

Done 179 clicks, March 96 build, 15" ugly mags, pretty much stock, has aftermarket woodgrain trim and sunroof. Has Sony double din MP3 stereo, with power and pre-out leads already running to the boot (which indicates maybe a younger owner before the couple who have it now?). Needs rear bar respray, possible respray of boot if touch up of missing paint doesn't fix it (size of a 20c piece), touch up of rear drivers door and a ding popped out of the bonnet. $5k

For some reason the seat travel is further in the TF, and the sunroof in the TE kinda takes away some of the headroom i'd like, being really quite tall and all.

Opinions? Parents are pushing me to go for the TE cause its cheap, I'm preferring the TF for value for what I get, and because it felt nicer to drive (probably something to do with the suspension). Opinions on whats the better choice, and whether mid 6's for the silver one is too much please (getting mixed opinions on its value) :)

Cheers

*edit: Almost forgot, Oct 2008 rego on TF, Feb 2009 rego on TE.

Opinions? Parents are pushing me to go for the TE cause its cheap, I'm preferring the TF for value for what I get, and because it felt nicer to drive (probably something to do with the suspension).

Go with what YOU want, it's your money, it's your car. You'll kick yourself if u get something you didn't want from the start. also, if u get the stock one, you'll only waste cash putting rims, tints, lowering anyway

Go with what YOU want, it's your money, it's your car. You'll kick yourself if u get something you didn't want from the start. also, if u get the stock one, you'll only waste cash putting rims, tints, lowering anyway
He is right... Make a decision and end this thread!

He is right... Make a decision and end this thread!
Haha never, I should just keep changing my mind and see if I can get this thread to 100 pages lol

If you don't like that :gtfo:



kidding.

So realistically what I want to know is what do people think that Silver TF is worth? The more people help the quicker this thread will end, unless a mod closes it on me lol

Haha never, I should just keep changing my mind and see if I can get this thread to 100 pages lol

If you don't like that :gtfo:



kidding.

So realistically what I want to know is what do people think that Silver TF is worth? The more people help the quicker this thread will end, unless a mod closes it on me lol
Well... I would offer $5500 with a RWC. Remember its a 10 year old car! But in all honesty just by going by the pics it looks like its in nicer condition than the red one although i would like to see some interior shots. You can always tell how well a car has been looked after by its interior.

Well... I would offer $5500 with a RWC. Remember its a 10 year old car! But in all honesty just by going by the pics it looks like its in nicer condition than the red one although i would like to see some interior shots. You can always tell how well a car has been looked after by its interior.
He won't go for $5500. Realistically thats what the stock ones sell for, I wish red book was more accurate, I was thinking about offering $6400. Did boozer show you the interior shots?

I'll try my best to explain it in detail. The wheel is a little worn on the bottom when it looks like the drivers hand has been resting when cruising in straight lines, not a big deal IMO. Theres a little bit of wear to the plastic insert around the air con controls, hard to explain the wear, but I'd sand it back and spray it silver anyway, the power window controls are already sprayed silver. As a result of the shop who did the power window controls the door trims are a bit lose, but should be easily tightened up (just gotta take the door inserts off and re-glue, as I'm sure you know better than me). Otherwise, no marks or scratches, everything looks clean, seats aren't worn at all, no fading or damage, looks like its been cared for pretty well, inside and out

The TE I can pretty much say the same for inside, although the woodgrain trim doesn't look like it fits 100% (eg. air con off and the button is still about 1cm deep emerged into the dash) and it looks tacky to me. The seats were clean and not worn or damaged, wheel had some wearing similar to that of the TF. Only interior fault was the clock above the air con vents doesn't work, at all. Stereo only picks up CD in the TE too, electric Ariel doesn't seem to function, and part of the boot lining is missing.

You can always tell how well a car has been looked after by its interior.

Mine got beach sand in it... got the vacuum out gone, now looks smick again :thumbsup: sign of a person looking after their car....

He won't go for $5500. Realistically thats what the stock ones sell for, I wish red book was more accurate, I was thinking about offering $6400. Did boozer show you the interior shots?

I'll try my best to explain it in detail. The wheel is a little worn on the bottom when it looks like the drivers hand has been resting when cruising in straight lines, not a big deal IMO. Theres a little bit of wear to the plastic insert around the air con controls, hard to explain the wear, but I'd sand it back and spray it silver anyway, the power window controls are already sprayed silver. As a result of the shop who did the power window controls the door trims are a bit lose, but should be easily tightened up (just gotta take the door inserts off and re-glue, as I'm sure you know better than me). Otherwise, no marks or scratches, everything looks clean, seats aren't worn at all, no fading or damage, looks like its been cared for pretty well, inside and out

The TE I can pretty much say the same for inside, although the woodgrain trim doesn't look like it fits 100% (eg. air con off and the button is still about 1cm deep emerged into the dash) and it looks tacky to me. The seats were clean and not worn or damaged, wheel had some wearing similar to that of the TF. Only interior fault was the clock above the air con vents doesn't work, at all. Stereo only picks up CD in the TE too, electric Ariel doesn't seem to function, and part of the boot lining is missing.
You sound like you have been very thorough with it. Well, all i can say is go with your gut instinct. I reckon the silver one is a much better buy at 6 ish perhaps due to the wheels and lowering. But... Gut instinct my boy... Only you know. :D

you already know what i've thought, i'd go the silver as well just in case you didn't know...

Well I've been as thorough as I can. I'm not too good with the mechanical side of things, but I figure if it drives smoothly and has a service history showing its been serviced on time all the time, I'm pretty safe. I've always found myself opening the bonnet thinking "now what would the boys on amc look at?"...then after a few seconds thinking "**** it, looks clean, good enough!" :bowrofl:

silver one looks nice the red one looks like garbage and the tint on the back window is stuffed

mechanicals are luck of the draw.... anything can fail at any time, so as long as it runs well thats good enough for me... i have had brand new cars fail and old crap cars last for ever without looking after them....

offer 5k for the silver one ;)

mods offer no extra resale value (make sure you make the seller understand this) let them know your not reall even interested in the fact it has tints wheels and lowered, it a magna after all!!!

cittris's s/c'd vrx proves that point AWESOME car same $$$ as similar un modded vrx... and as yet still no sale

offer 5k for the silver one ;)

mods offer no extra resale value (make sure you make the seller understand this) let them know your not reall even interested in the fact it has tints wheels and lowered, it a magna after all!!!

exactly right, if the seller isn't gonna go with $5000, the MOST i'd go for is $6000.

Tell him this

"I looked at a couple of other ones similar to yours, they had less km *insert other stuff here* and the guy was asking for $5500... but i prefer your car as you've kept it clean/undamaged so if you can take $5500-$6000 consider it sold!"

Worked when we bought my gf's proton, he was selling it for $6000 without REG, we got it for $5100 with REG

Worked when we bought my gf's proton, he was selling it for $6000 without REG, we got it for $5100 with REG

Yeah but that WAS a Proton, it's possible that it just depreciated that quickly that it was worth $900 less by the time you'd discussed the sale with him, lol, the Rego may have been a sweetner just to sell it to the only buyer who'd enquired :badgrin: ...... nah just kidding.

Lugo if you want the Silver one go in hard with the bargaining and, like the other members have said, make sure the seller understands that you KNOW that the wheels and suspension make no difference to the sale price of the car.

Point out to you parents that the red one has a towbar and it seems to have done a fair bit of towing (judging by the scratches on the bumper around the towbar) and the transmission is more likely to show signs of wear than the Silver one. And ask them if they could drive it around with those wheels, they'd have to say no, lol, the wheels are POX!! And the VR/VS next to it in the photos has hideous aftermarket Altezza light in it, thats a good enough reason for never speaking to the seller again, you could actually be forgiven for throwing rocks at him/her. As AndrewD said, the tint is bubbled and most likely illegal (if you get a proper Roadworthy) and this (combined with the wheels) shows a dedication to cheap, half-assed modifications (I hope the same person owns that Common-dore as well, 2 people in the same street with horrendous taste in after-market add-ons is too much to contemplate). Go for the Silver one, anyone reading the thread can tell that you like it more. Your parents don't have to drive it, you're happy with it and it's within your budget. Lower kms that you were expecting, a few nice goodies and it just LOOKS the goods. With a new set of wheels, re-tinting, bumper repairs, lowering etc the Red one will end up costing more than the silver one, there isn't really a comparison. $6000 seems reasonable given the condition and kms, but try to get it cheaper.

Yeah can you tell I like the Silver one better? :P

Something felt wrong when I was in the red Altera, call it gut feeling if you like, so I'm ruling that one out. I reckon its been trashed anyway, had the cables running for a subbie to the boot, and the boot lining all needs replacing from being torn to pieces in sections, for the wiring, and the electric aiel and clock don't work, so I think a younger owner has had it at some point and not cared for it particually well.

The silver one I'm waiting on a call back for, the owner is getting the brackets for the front bar fitted wednesday, and is going to call me to organise a time to pop around once thats done, so probably wed evening or thursday night. I was fairly confident I'd be able to get it into what I'd be prepared to pay, because when I saw it on eBay (don't have a go at me for that) it was buy it now $7500 or start bidding $6500, but now its on carsales for $7500, so I'm not sure I'll be able to talk over a grand off that, but on the bright side, I did know what he had it for originally :D

The cashmere KE verada is still in the running anyway, just waiting to see how this roadworthy thing turns out on that, if I'm still hunting by the time he's got that done, and theres a Blue KE Ei I might be going down to look at in the next couple of days listed for $6800 with full 12 month rego, ready to be talked down :P

We'll see what happens, atm I like the TF altera quite a lot, but if he won't bring it down to what I can afford, not much I can do aye! Wish me luck for when the time comes.lol

Yeah can you tell I like the Silver one better? :P
Hmmm, YES :badgrin:

I was fairly confident I'd be able to get it into what I'd be prepared to pay, because when I saw it on eBay (don't have a go at me for that)
I have said all I have to say on the eBay front.....just for the record that blue one is back on there.....oh look at that, I hadn't said all I have to say.

The cashmere KE verada is still in the running anyway, just waiting to see how this roadworthy thing turns out on that, if I'm still hunting by the time he's got that done
How long does it take to do a roadworthy? Obviously not in a real rush to sell!!

We'll see what happens, atm I like the TF altera quite a lot, but if he won't bring it down to what I can afford, not much I can do aye!
Send 10 of your mates around there at separate times, get them to drive it and then offer him between $4500 and $5500, by the time you get back to him with an offer of $6000 he'll jump at it, lol.

I have said all I have to say on the eBay front.....just for the record that blue one is back on there.....oh look at that, I hadn't said all I have to say.
What blue one? Theres been too many, I'm losing it!


How long does it take to do a roadworthy? Obviously not in a real rush to sell!!
He's waiting for his mechanic to come back from holidays, you don't remember?


Send 10 of your mates around there at separate times, get them to drive it and then offer him between $4500 and $5500, by the time you get back to him with an offer of $6000 he'll jump at it, lol.
LOL that idea is golden.....don't want 10 of my mates driving it first tho haha, if some of them drive it I won't want it anymore, it'll be broken hahaha

What blue one? Theres been too many, I'm losing it!
Blue Verada in Sydney, the one you didn't want to travel for, it's gone now, it was there on the weekend when I had a look. Hate eBay, surprised I even suggested it, lol.

He's waiting for his mechanic to come back from holidays, you don't remember?
Oh I'm vague as hell, I don't remember anything, lol. Well something with that doesn't sit right. If his mechanic is on holidays and he wants to sell the car, why not take it somewhere else? Essentially a RWC is the same at any mechanic.....unless his mechanic does dodgy RWC's, in which case I'd insist he took it elsewhere before even making an offer on it.

LOL that idea is golden.....don't want 10 of my mates driving it first tho haha, if some of them drive it I won't want it anymore, it'll be broken hahaha
Would imagine that if he didn't sell it on eBay with a starting bid of $6500 then he must already know that $7500 is too expensive.....not sure of his logic really "Nobody bought it for $6500, maybe if I change websites I'll get $7500 instead". Bizarre.

Oh I'm vague as hell, I don't remember anything, lol. Well something with that doesn't sit right. If his mechanic is on holidays and he wants to sell the car, why not take it somewhere else? Essentially a RWC is the same at any mechanic.....unless his mechanic does dodgy RWC's, in which case I'd insist he took it elsewhere before even making an offer on it.
Thats what I was thinking, but the guy doesn't seem the dodgy type (you can never tell though), its quite possible his mechanic will charge him less for parts and labour.


Would imagine that if he didn't sell it on eBay with a starting bid of $6500 then he must already know that $7500 is too expensive.....not sure of his logic really "Nobody bought it for $6500, maybe if I change websites I'll get $7500 instead". Bizarre.
Yeah, I'm hoping that he'll work that out eventually haha. I know what people have told me to pay upto for it, and what could be considered its "value", but I might be prepared to pay up to say $6.4ish, if I can source the money. I know mods mean jack all to the value of the car, but if he refused to accept that, and I know full well I can't buy a stock car and do the same things for the same money or less, maybe they are worth a little bit, just not 100% of their original cost.

*edit: it'd be funny if he was reading all this.......

Thats what I was thinking, but the guy doesn't seem the dodgy type (you can never tell though), its quite possible his mechanic will charge him less for parts and labour.
People are bastards, I've rarely met a dodgy person who seemed like a dodgy person, lol. Trust nobody until you can prove what they're telling you. Ask him if he'll pay for the RWC check at the mechanic of your choice, he doesn't have to have the work done there, just the check, that way he doesn't cost himself any more money because a RWC costs more or less the same at all mechanics and you get an unbiased check on your car.

Yeah, I'm hoping that he'll work that out eventually haha. I know what people have told me to pay upto for it, and what could be considered its "value", but I might be prepared to pay up to say $6.4ish, if I can source the money. I know mods mean jack all to the value of the car, but if he refused to accept that, and I know full well I can't buy a stock car and do the same things for the same money or less, maybe they are worth a little bit, just not 100% of their original cost.
"Worth" is a subjective term. The difference between "Value" and "Worth" can be huge. If you can justify $6400 for the car, whether that justification is a full service history, low kilometres, leather seats, or a nice set of wheels and a stereo it really isn't anybody elses concern. If you were going to pay 10grand for a car that was valued at 5 on Redbook then there'd probably be cause for concern, but paying $6400 for a car thats valued at $5800, who cares, you like it, it makes you happy and it's in good condition, plus the mods have already been done for you, so its "worth" the money for you. $600 is the cost of a good head-unit or a set of tyres, I wouldn't be losing any sleep over it if you've got a good car for the money you outlay. Bargain the best you can then take it for the best price you can negotiate......and just to reiterate, the red car looks like pus, you should be embarrassed you even considered it!! lol

I might look into that RWC check thing, didn't actually think of that.

Your too right with the Value and Worth thing, shouldn't have used both words in he same sentence lol I suppose the way it'd be seen, is for someone like most of the members on here that would want to change the springs, and wheels, and change the headunit and so on would see some worth in those bits already done, but someone who really couldn't care less if its modified or stock would see no worth. I have to make it clear I don't care at all about the modifications! (honestly I don't that much, if I could find a factory finished one in the same condition cheaper, I'd probably do that, just the TE wasn't in the same condition.

And for the record, I thought the TE might have been ok when I looked at the listing, took me a trip down there to work out something wasn't quite right, the rest of you guys worked that out from the listing! :redface:


lol

I might look into that RWC check thing, didn't actually think of that.

Your too right with the Value and Worth thing, shouldn't have used both words in he same sentence lol I suppose the way it'd be seen, is for someone like most of the members on here that would want to change the springs, and wheels, and change the headunit and so on would see some worth in those bits already done, but someone who really couldn't care less if its modified or stock would see no worth. I have to make it clear I don't care at all about the modifications! (honestly I don't that much, if I could find a factory finished one in the same condition cheaper, I'd probably do that, just the TE wasn't in the same condition.

And for the record, I thought the TE might have been ok when I looked at the listing, took me a trip down there to work out something wasn't quite right, the rest of you guys worked that out from the listing! :redface:
lol

Haha, nah it's all very easy to sit at my desk and criticise, but to be honest in your situation I'd have probably had a look at the red one as well. Looking can't hurt and at least you didn't bid on it on eBay and end up feeling obligated to buy it......did I just gratuitously bash eBay again? Never miss an opportunity.....Check with the seller of the Verada about the RWC, my mechanic will do a Road Worthy CHECK for free (not a certificate, you still have to pay $88 for that) even if the guy doesn't want to part with any cash, you may be able to organise with your own mechanic to do a check on the car for free. You may be able to find out what it needs for Road Worthy, then use that to bargain the guy down further if you buy it as-is and organise your own RWC (only do this if you know exactly what needs to be done and the cost of the repairs) just a thought.

Ok guy its time to make a final call, theres two to pick from, TF Altera or KE Ei and the KE won't be available after I make my decision, whether I choose it or not.

KE Ei again:
http://liveimages.carsales.com.au/private/3122303.jpg
http://liveimages.carsales.com.au/private/3122316.jpg
179k's, 1997 Build, factory standard. Benefits over TF, Fog lights + paras, chrome door handles, climate control, velour seats, 3.5L V6, resale.

TF Altera:
http://liveimages.carsales.com.au/private/3176285.jpg
http://liveimages.carsales.com.au/private/3176293.jpg
175k's, 1997 Build. 18" Wheels (standard with 15"s, not roadworthy?), pedders super lows, tinted windows.

I am leaning towards the Verada a bit, but knowing full well the I can't do the lowering or rims in the near future, is it possibly worth going with the magna, despite lower resale? Damn I hate hard decisions.

Regarding resale, how long are you going to keep it? I mean the resale on either will be pretty poor. As you said the Altera has some of the goodies that are otherwise going to be out of reach for a while (I know how that feels), but on the other hand the Verada's stock wheels aren't so bad, and it is a Verada so it has the toys on the inside.

I'm not a fan of the champagne colour, so my pick would be the Altera out of those two. Nice wheels, lowered and nice colour. Also has longer rego

Link to Verada (http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/MITSUBISHI/VERADA/details.aspx?__sid=1175DD3570D8&Cr=8&__Ns=pCar_PrivateSpecialFlag_Int32|1||pCar_ImageCo unt_Int32|1||pCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime|1&State=Victoria&distance=25&silo=1003&seot=0&PriceMax=7500&__Nne=20&Model=VERADA&R=5211509&__N=4294964597+82+443+4294964081+834+285+257&Make=MITSUBISHI&state_id=82&trecs=20)
Link to Altera (http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/MITSUBISHI/MAGNA/details.aspx?Cr=16&__Ns=pCar_PrivateSpecialFlag_Int32|1||pCar_ImageCo unt_Int32|1||pCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime|1&__Nne=20&seot=0&trecs=474&silo=1003&Make=MITSUBISHI&Model=MAGNA&__N=4294964597+4294964374+834+285+257&__sid=1174A951DF17&R=5254798)

id say being a younger fella get the tf, much sportier, youve got the rest of your life for luxuries, looks better and has lower k's aswell

My wife has has an almost identical KE EI, and now that I have my vrx she would like something more "sporty", but she feels that the colour won't let it be a hot car. There are a couple of Kashmir radas on here that are "done up" but they aren't necessarily "hot". The Altera already looks "hot", so I tend to agree with ts3.0:D

follow your gut feeling, disregard the mods, assume all is stock, its the best way.

go with the verada. wayyyy better

It'll be the KE Verada by the looks of things, dude with the TF isn't interested in dropping below $6800 for it at the minute. Its too much for what you get, the Verada will be at least $3-400 cheaper than that.

I wouldn't be paying more than $6000 for the Verada, considering the kms and only 3mths rego. Even $6k may be too high.

And what are the "very minor issues" he mentions on the carsales ad?

And what are the "very minor issues" he mentions on the carsales ad?
Indicator stalk needs replacing, doesn't always function when you indicate right, sometimes one of the headlights doesn't work, more than likely the stalk again. The rubber seal is also coming away a bit on one of the doors, which seems really common on the 3rd gens in general, and the electric Ariel doesn't work. All of that bar the Ariel is getting fixed as part of the roadworthy anyway.

Oh and he lost the remote, but he's getting a new one for it.

Indicator stalk needs replacing, doesn't always function when you indicate right, sometimes one of the headlights doesn't work, more than likely the stalk again. The rubber seal is also coming away a bit on one of the doors, which seems really common on the 3rd gens in general, and the electric Ariel doesn't work. All of that bar the Ariel is getting fixed as part of the roadworthy anyway.

Oh and he lost the remote, but he's getting a new one for it.

hope they are fixing it because thats 300-400 odd worth of repairs there most of that on the indicator stalk

$6k or less with the repairs done should be all you pay, otherwise it's too much.

Sure are. First thing I'll check after the roadworthy has been done is whether its got the fog light controls on it, not letting them do that dodgy on me to save a few $$$. The problem with the headlights is weird, sometimes the left one doesn't work, sometimes the right one, which leads me to believe its the stalk, since its already having electrical problems.

Car hasn't been water damaged by flooding has it? Causing some of the electrics to be a bit iffy?

I had a KE with 200K + on it and the indicator stalk was also playing up, particularly on right hand turns.
I'd say it's just age. A new one should fix the headlights.

Car hasn't been water damaged by flooding has it? Causing some of the electrics to be a bit iffy?
Doubt it somehow, Bundoora is a high area, no flooding in god knows how long around there, and its always been garaged as long as this guy has had it, since 2000. Nothing looks like its water damaged. I'd say its just the stalk, although I'm not sure why that'd cause one headlight to turn on and the other to stay off, but its the only central point for both headlights, and since its never consistently one headlight not functioning, how can it be the wiring anywhere else?

Verada is very nice, despite the fact that it's "Champagne" (Metallic "Pensioner Beige" as it is known in certain circles) It seems to be really well kept and the stock wheels and suspension aren't bad (got a set of front Superlows you can have for free if my bastard thing scrapes on one more speed hump!!) honestly its a good, safe, fairly powerful car for your first one, not sure how much diff the mods on the Magna will make to your insurance, but the Verada is a nicer car in my opinion.

My Electric Antenna hasn't worked since a tree hooked it and turned it into a "Go Faster" aerodynamic model. If thats the only thing you've got to worry about on it then its a new mast and you've got a good example of a Verada.

As far as color goes, there are worse colors around than Champagne (Mines gloss primer grey if you listen to my mates lol ) and theres no harm driving a Grandpa car on your P's, it takes the "cop bait" tag off you for a while (plus it's a "sleeper" you can beat other P-Platers in the Traffic Light Grand Prix and still blend-in at Westfield on Pension Day lol). Ask any of your mates who get hotted-up Common-dores for their first cars, they'll be pulled into every Booze Bus and "random" roadworthy test in Melbourne. My vote is for the Verada.

Car hasn't been water damaged by flooding has it? Causing some of the electrics to be a bit iffy?

My KH has a dodgy stalk. Apparently it is a common problem if you search the site. It can cause headlight problems (I've found a thread from a guy whose highbeams were permanently on) My left indicator doesn't always work unless you push it hard, apparently the contacts can be cleaned and adjusted but I'm pretty lazy. I doubt there is any water damage, more likely to be the stalk. Replacement or contact cleaning should fix it.

I like the colour, I don't know why people are dissing it. I don't think it'd look any good on a Magna, but its a classier luxury colour IMO, I like it :D

Still tossing up if ill put a new electric one in, or a manual one and just leave it up half way. They appear to work fine when their all the way down anyway haha.

I like the stock rims, so I'll probably do the springs if I can get em done cheap enough (properly of course) and some midnight express tint, along with the stereo, and that'll be about it I reckon for a long time (that'll use up any cash I get from my 18th along with what I have), worth the investment I reckon. Insurance is actually cheaper on a stock Ei than stock Altera, work it out :confused:

I'll let you guys know how I go after tomorrow night.

edit* Come to think of it I think it is when you indicate left theres a problem, its when you push up on the stalk, which is left obviously, clearly I'm not thinking properly tonight.

I like the colour, I don't know why people are dissing it. I don't think it'd look any good on a Magna, but its a classier luxury colour IMO, I like it :D

Still tossing up if ill put a new electric one in, or a manual one and just leave it up half way. They appear to work fine when their all the way down anyway haha.

I like the stock rims, so I'll probably do the springs if I can get em done cheap enough (properly of course) and some midnight express tint, along with the stereo, and that'll be about it I reckon for a long time (that'll use up any cash I get from my 18th along with what I have), worth the investment I reckon. Insurance is actually cheaper on a stock Ei than stock Altera, work it out :confused:

I'll let you guys know how I go after tomorrow night.

edit* Come to think of it I think it is when you indicate left theres a problem, its when you push up on the stalk, which is left obviously, clearly I'm not thinking properly tonight.

Haha, the colour is fine.

Not sure where you're driving that you can get good reception with the antenna down though. The thing is so far from the radio it loses a heap of signal getting from there to the head unit (the back left Quarter Panel?? WTF??? at least Camry's Right Hand Rear Quarter didn't get fouled by trees and crap, but the roof or the window like a Subaru, anywhere else would be better!!!!) mine is stuck roughly 2/3 of the way up and bent at a sporty angle, lol and it has trouble getting reception within 2000kms of the nearest tram track or mountain. Certain stations are fine, but they mostly play Jimmy Barnes and Bruce Springsteen....I'm glad I have a 6-stacker under the seat, it was either that or a coathanger bent into a map of Australia!!!

Ah, this is the interesting part of Insurance premiums, and again where the whole "Grandpa Car" thing comes in handy. Part of the premium calculation is based on the number of accidents claimed in that type of car. Presumably there are less Verada's on the road, so less claims to begin with. But also they are more often owned by an older, more experienced category of drivers (MitchellO and myself excluded......okay I'm nearly 30, almost time for the pipe and slippers, but MitchellO and yourself are excluded) who have less accidents, which works out great for you. I actually get cheaper insurance than friends with older and cheaper cars. A good perk.

I would drive a car with Superlows in it before you change the suspension. It looks better and handles better but mine thumps into potholes and bumps like nobodys business. I'd rather the stock bouncy suspension anyday!!

Yeah, my left indicator sometimes makes a noise like a strangled cat and just doesn't flash. Push it a little harder and it works perfectly without the noise. Contact cleaner, apparently its a 20 minute process to remove the stalk and clean the contacts, but you shouldn't have to worry if they replace the stalk for RWC.

Good luck with it all.

That TF has superlows in it, I've driven that twice, didn't seem so bad, a bit bumpy on **** roads, but all in all good. I'd probably go with the same combination as omar did ideally, I like the way his sits, superlow rear, low front. Anyway, I shant get ahead of myself, organise the car first, then the mods! lol

I believe, only from posting pics of my suspension and getting opinions, that mine has Superlows in the front and Lows in the rear (it sits lower at the front). It seems really harsh to me, especially if you hit a bump going around a bend at medium to high speeds, but that may be just me.....

Maybe your shockers are f'ed and its just sitting lower and absorbing nothing then? can't see why anyone would want to have the rear end sticking up in the air on purpose.

Previous owner was a retard? :badgrin: Not sure really. It doesn't look as weird as you'd think though, but I'd still prefer the whole car at one height....and not the same height as the front is currently lol . As far as I'm aware the shockers are fine. It passed RWC 2 months ago and it still does the "one bounce then settle" test that everybody swears by, lol. I might just be picky.

Still tossing up if ill put a new electric one in, or a manual one and just leave it up half way. They appear to work fine when their all the way down anyway haha.

My aerial was broken when I bought my car, but I've found if I only use it on the half-height setting it goes up and down fine. I bought a new one from Mitsu before realising this, haven't decided whether to bother installing it yet, the radio works fine at half-height.

My aerial was broken when I bought my car, but I've found if I only use it on the half-height setting it goes up and down fine. I bought a new one from Mitsu before realising this, haven't decided whether to bother installing it yet, the radio works fine at half-height.
Interesting, I think this one is actually bent a little bit tho, which would be why it isn't working, along with it being an aftermarket Pioneer deck. I'm going to ask the guy if he has the original stereo for it, as I think it would look nicer than the Pioneer in it, and serves basically the same purpose. Would be one of the first things I'll replace anyway, most of my CD's are MP3. Will probably just get a normal aerial off any 3rd gen at the wreckers, will serve its purpose, as cool as electric stuff is :P

I'll let you guys know how I go after tomorrow night.

Well? It's tomorrow night. Has the 19 page "Lugo's first car" post come to an end? lol.

Should I be looking on bittorrent for the next episode?!? It's taking too long to go to air!

Well? It's tomorrow night. Has the 19 page "Lugo's first car" post come to an end? lol.
NEVER! I'm confirming 100% with the guy sometime today I guess now, looks like settle price will be ~$6550 on road (inclusive of transfer fees). Spose I'll have a new thread for when I get the car in my hands though, with some proper pics, list of proposed mods, and so on, so I guess on its 19th page this thread may be nearing an end, might hit page 20 depending! lol

NEVER! I'm confirming 100% with the guy sometime today I guess now, looks like settle price will be ~$6550 on road (inclusive of transfer fees). Spose I'll have a new thread for when I get the car in my hands though, with some proper pics, list of proposed mods, and so on, so I guess on its 19th page this thread may be nearing an end, might hit page 20 depending! lol

it might hit the big 20 and that price is pretty good, i take it that was the verada?

it might hit the big 20 and that price is pretty good, i take it that was the verada?

Not gonna happen man :)

KE's are very nice cars man, and very quick too, basically a 3.5L in the light TE shell with a few trimmings. I miss my KE somedays, the KJ is soooo much slower at times.

Not gonna happen man :)

KE's are very nice cars man, and very quick too, basically a 3.5L in the light TE shell with a few trimmings. I miss my KE somedays, the KJ is soooo much slower at times.

theres page 20 gas_Hed! haha

it might hit the big 20 and that price is pretty good, i take it that was the verada?
Yeah that was the Verada. I know some people have told me thats a bit too much for a KE, but it felt right to drive, just that gut feeling. It actually works out to $6543, +$55 for a month of 3rd Party F&T until I can put the Full Comp on with Real.

We could take this to 21 pages by the time you pick it up :badgrin:

Well done, a 3rd gen Verada with less than the estimated 200,000kms, on the road and registered within your original budget. Took less than a month and you looked at a fair few contenders so you know that what you got is the best of the bunch. Congratulations!! :)