Hi all.

Was wondering what sort of exhaust you would recomend for sound and performance on the ralliart.
I was told you shouldnt change the exhaust on the ralliarts.
Any help would be appreciated.

i just did the rear muffler, sounds better now. its an X force with twin 3" tips

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45121&highlight=ralliart+exhaust

Check this thread....I cant imagine you would need to change the exhaust on a RalliArt...thats almost half the reason its quicker then VRX's.

dont ralliarts and vrx's have the same exhausts?
just different tips..

if you want somethin beefier, go for a lukey or redback, replace the whole line with something bigger

dont ralliarts and vrx's have the same exhausts?
Yep. That said, an aftermarket one would have some benefit, less restriction due to no care for noise etc.

I did a migh flow metaL cat with 2.5" stainless piping through to the rear. It also has a bomb or hot dog muffler in the centre and the rear is a X Force twin tip 2.5".

The sound is good and has got better after putting a few K's on the new system.

On the dyno this gave me about 15Nm more in the mid range through to the top and about a 5kW increase in power.

You can absolutely change the rear muffler on a Ralliart, and I have. The standard Ralliart muffler equates to the Lukey, exactly the same as on the TJ/TL VRX and Sports, except the Ralliart had the duck-bill chrome tip. While there's nothing wrong with the Lukey, I wanted a deeper thoaty burble and so went for the dual outlet Magnaflow. Virtually no drone at all, just a nice deep sound. The Magnaflow is a fully straight thru muffler. No need to remove any resonators once you've fitted the muffler (there's a hotdog just near the rear wheel - leave it there).

There's very little need to change the rest of the exhaust system. Some people have removed the extractors and fitted Pacemakers. Personally I like the stainless steel Ralliart versions and from all I've read they flow very well, although possibly the flex pipe design could be improved. I fitted Pacemakers on my previous TH Sports, and was not impressed with the design up close (and I got zero detectable performance gain) and so have no intention of fitting them again.

You can absolutely change the rear muffler on a Ralliart, and I have. The standard Ralliart muffler equates to the Lukey, exactly the same as on the TJ/TL VRX and Sports, except the Ralliart had the duck-bill chrome tip. While there's nothing wrong with the Lukey, I wanted a deeper thoaty burble and so went for the dual outlet Magnaflow. Virtually no drone at all, just a nice deep sound. The Magnaflow is a fully straight thru muffler. No need to remove any resonators once you've fitted the muffler (there's a hotdog just near the rear wheel - leave it there).

There's very little need to change the rest of the exhaust system. Some people have removed the extractors and fitted Pacemakers. Personally I like the stainless steel Ralliart versions and from all I've read they flow very well, although possibly the flex pipe design could be improved. I fitted Pacemakers on my previous TH Sports, and was not impressed with the design up close (and I got zero detectable performance gain) and so have no intention of fitting them again.

What Magnaflow muffler is that, part number? How much if you don't mind me asking. Thats what I would like for my VRX AWD.

What Magnaflow muffler is that, part number? How much if you don't mind me asking. Thats what I would like for my VRX AWD.

same here haha.
and what price? (if u dont mind the ask)

My ralliart has the stock exhaust system and a torpedo style (hotdog) rear muffler. Sounds GREAT! Love it. Although, On the 3rd I am getting a set of RPW race extractors and a 2.5" high flw metal cat fitted...

Be interested to see i there is a gain or a shange in tone...

Magnaflow 5" x 8" oval street series polished stainless steel muffler, twin high flow tuned tubes, twin 3.5" outlets, part # 14805.

Should cost around $500 fully fitted (shop around, you might do better). Sounds great with the Ralliart engine.

AFAIK the ralliart has a diffferent centre resonator to adhere to noise level (no difference in performance over vrx/sports). Also it has different extractors which are worth a few kw.

Unless you are going to do major mods, just replace the rear muffler with a quality straight-through item for a nice note. I can vouch for Magnaflow mufflers, pricy but well worth it, don't skimp on the muffler.

Don't expect any tangible increasese in power however.

Doing extractors and exhaust on my Ralliart netted me approximately 25hpatw (18kwatw) and a sizable mid-range torque difference. Keeping in mind this was tuned at the time with an Interceptor.

Magnaflow 5" x 8" oval street series polished stainless steel muffler, twin high flow tuned tubes, twin 3.5" outlets, part # 14805.

Should cost around $500 fully fitted (shop around, you might do better). Sounds great with the Ralliart engine.

sweet thanks.


ooo also, off topic slightly, but how hard would be to either get a new rear bumper and/or modify the existing one to suit the diff sized exhaust

thanks alot for all the help.

Disciple they are the sort of numbers i am after.

Its got a different set of extractors. not sure what type? i have a dyno for b4 and after the change. Slightly more torque but no power gain. something to look into i gues.

So the people that have actually chagned out the extractors on the ralliart, Did you guys notice and change in performance?

Rather than start a new thread i thought i would just ask here.

I have been dyno'd at 130kw/atw Is this ok for a manual ralliart? or is it abit low?

130KW is exactly what I got (for a stock manual Ralliart).

All dynos are subjective, but just to give you an idea: I got 109 kW ATW on the same dyno on my previous TH Sports (and that car had a Lukey exhaust and Pacemaker extractors fitted), so at least on that dyno it shows the relative gain from a stock Ralliart.

I should add: I got no gain from a K&N panel when tested on the dyno on both my TH Sports and then on the Ralliart (I then sold the K&N and run a stock filter...).

130kwatw sounds right for a stock Ralliart. Mine pulled 139kwatw with extractors + exhaust then after the haltech it was 146kwatw.

130kwatw sounds right for a stock Ralliart. Mine pulled 139kwatw with extractors + exhaust then after the haltech it was 146kwatw.

Hmm.. EGO got 136kw at the wheels on his STOCK VR-X w/ Interceptor.. and you only make an extra 10kw over him with a CR of 9.4:1 / higher lift cams / Full exhaust..?

Thats really hard to believe...

Was it much different to drive?

Hmm.. EGO got 136kw at the wheels on his STOCK VR-X w/ Interceptor.. and you only make an extra 10kw over him with a CR of 9.4:1 / higher lift cams / Full exhaust..?

Thats really hard to believe...

Was it much different to drive?
Well seeing as tho I post nothing but rubbish according to you... :bowrofl:

Dyno's are a tuning tool, not a tool to compare power outputs. There was a difference in mid-range torque, but nothing noticeable on the bum dyno.

Well seeing as tho I post nothing but rubbish according to you... :bowrofl:

Dyno's are a tuning tool, not a tool to compare power outputs. There was a difference in mid-range torque, but nothing noticeable on the bum dyno.

I know dynos are a tuning tool and are not really a tool used for compairing power output... [except in autosalon...and dyno comps]...which is why I also asked what it felt like to drive... did it feel much quicker? How did the improved mid-range feel on the road?

Regards
Alex

total power outputs depend greatly on the day its on the dyno as well hot humid days net lower kw then cool days, also tyre choice % of rubber left etc all make quite a bit of difference

so 130atw aint bad then. FOR NOW cheers

I know dynos are a tuning tool and are not really a tool used for compairing power output... [except in autosalon...and dyno comps]...which is why I also asked what it felt like to drive... did it feel much quicker? How did the improved mid-range feel on the road?

Regards
Alex
Not really noticeable. It knocked like 0.4 off my quarter mile time, which I guess is pretty good. Was the mid-range torque really noticeable on the road? Not really, no. But the sound it makes is very addictive, especially the burble on the over-run. :drool:

Not really noticeable. It knocked like 0.4 off my quarter mile time, which I guess is pretty good. Was the mid-range torque really noticeable on the road? Not really, no. But the sound it makes is very addictive, especially the burble on the over-run. :drool:

Sounds hot! I wouldent mind doing the zorst on mine as soon as i save the $$$.. but I also love the sounds it is making at the moment...

:doubt:

shotgun your old headers if you switch them :P

Lol!! I will be switching them... But Im nt sure if ill sell them...

ok guys. Back again.

Im going the 2.5 straight through system from cat back.

All i need to know is will i lose power? I dont see how or why but i thought id put it out for discussion.
Thanks

Jonno :cool:

There is always some variance across dynos, particular in the way it is operated (e.g ramp rate used etc). But as a rule of thumb, IMO a realistic figure should be around:

-120wkw for a stock TJ manual magna
-125wkw for a stock manual Sport/VRX variant
-135-140kw for a stock manual ralliart.

It's easy to get too caught up in dyno figures, but basically as long as the dyno is reasonably calibrated, and is being operated correctly (e.g realistic ramp rate and temp correction), you should be getting figures fairly close to the above. Of course they are always other factors that wil skew numbers a little, e.g tyre pressure, compound of tyre, tyre width etc.

E.g try doing a run with 20psi in the front tyres, then 50psi. Generally with 50psi the reading will be a little higher.

I always hear people claiming hot weather responsible for lower readings, but generally the figure you see on the printout has been worked out using power correction for temperature, so the result should be pretty consistent regardless of ambient temp.

Though some cars, FI'd cars in particular, do suffer from exxagerated power loss with high temps. The Sprintex setup is a good example. Mine made 180wkw while it was reasonable cool -as in was properly warmed up, and had done a "Safety run", but hadn't been thrashed for ages before the run.

But after an hour of tuning on the dyno, from memory it recorded 168wkw. This is because prior to the run it had been thrashed on the dyno while having the tune fixed up, so had gotten rather hot (especially without any intercooling). Because the temps were now very high, the Sprintex ECU was pulling back timing to avoid detonation, hence less power (also obviously higher intake temp from no intercooler = less power).