hey all,

My car has done about 30k KM on the odometer and my brakes are giving me a vibrating feeling through the pedal on hard (but not necessarily full pressure) braking. It feels like the discs are warped, but i have had the brakes checked a few times by different service agents and no one can fault them.

Does anyone else have this problem??

hey all,

My car has done about 30k KM on the odometer and my brakes are giving me a vibrating feeling through the pedal on hard (but not necessarily full pressure) braking. It feels like the discs are warped, but i have had the brakes checked a few times by different service agents and no one can fault them.

Does anyone else have this problem??

I've done about 22k & mine are real smooth on all sorts of braking. Even when the ABS is activated it's still smooth coz they operate at 80 bps.

I was getting a similar thing when going down hills and hitting them continually. I just experienced it going down Victoria Pass to Lithgow last Sunday. It wasn't the ABS but the EBD, I was told, redistributing some pressure to the rear brakes...

Zarbs

Maybe your discs need a grind?

could be a hot spot....

The problem is no one looks at them is really going to see how warped they are.. You will always feel the warpness under hard breaking more than light breaking. If you feel a slight shutter under normal conditions i would recommend getting them machined asap.

How are the pads..?? are they due..??

You really need to machine your rotors. not a hard job or expensive. cheap if you can pull the rotors off yourself. but no real point in machining them without changing your pads too.

If you pull the rotors off yourself and take them to a brake joint the average person can get them machined for about $15-20 a disc. if you got a mate that works in a big franchise dealer(Ford, Holden, mits) they usually have a machine on site and you can get it done for a favour..:)

If you go to the machanics its going to cost you loads more. Labour..:)

Mitsubishi will machine your discs under warranty if they need it. The car has to be under 30000 km though.

The problem is no one looks at them is really going to see how warped they are.. You will always feel the warpness under hard breaking more than light breaking. If you feel a slight shutter under normal conditions i would recommend getting them machined asap.

Err - if they are checking them properly, you can just use a dial gauge.

yeah it only does it on harder braking which is why i was a little concerned.......when i need them most they are the least inspiring. Mitsubishi told me the brake pads needed changing about 2000k ago, but when i went to get them replaced elsewhere i was told i had another 5000k easy before i needed to.

I dont brake alot...i tend to engine brake alot with the triptronix..but i live in the hills so when i do need to brake i tend to use a fair bit of pressure. But i heard the brakes in the 380's are really good, something down the lines of racing brakes cause they didnt fade....yet mine have always faded when push came to shove.

Thanks for the help though guys, i think i willbe back down soon to get the pads, discs and tyres replaced/machined.

my brakes are giving me a vibrating feeling through the pedal on hard (but not necessarily full pressure) braking. It feels like the discs are warped,

Just be sure it's not the ABS cutting in under hard braking.
This happens to me regularly on a left hand 90 degree downhill corner that, when it's wet, triggers the ABS even under moderately hard braking.

Perhaps try triggering the ABS deliberately to make sure you know what it feels like first (don't get me wrong, I'm just suggesting you eliminate the obvious...).

As EGO said, if it's warped discs (I'd be very surprised at 30K) you should feel it on light applications like just pulling up to the lights.

My car has done 36K and the brakes feel as smooth as when I first bought the car.

But i heard the brakes in the 380's are really good, something down the lines of racing brakes cause they didnt fade....yet mine have always faded when push came to shove.

if you find youre getting fade on medium to hard braking a higher temp pad might be needed aka bendix gct or ultimate if you have the extra $$ both shouldnt effect the warranty far as i know

Braking's so-so on mine. Smooth, but feels kinda underpowered. Were your vibrations always there or has only been a recent thing? Only thing I can think of is if you did hard braking a few times to make it hot (or prolonged braking when maintaining speed on the downhills) and had water splash on it. Drastic changes in temps normally cause warping.

Hey, the stuff around my brake's got like rust forming in it - the black metallic part where engraved writing is on. Kinda hard to explain without pics, but it's pretty obvious. Anybody else got the same thing?

I noticed the slight shudder on breaking for the first time travelling over xmas and new years (only had the car since December though). On the way through Wollongong NSW, down those very steep hills (and I mean very step, trucks have to go down them in first gear or something), when breaking hard down those hills I noticed a shudder, seemed to be coming from the breaks. That's the only time I've noticed it.

I also have that slight rust that I can see behind the alloy rims.

Cheers,
Zolt

Hey, the stuff around my brake's got like rust forming in it - the black metallic part where engraved writing is on. Kinda hard to explain without pics, but it's pretty obvious. Anybody else got the same thing?

yeah i have that forming on my brand new dba's as well doesnt effect the braking performance in any way must just be some surface rust forming. Oh well out to go burn it off them :D

Err - if they are checking them properly, you can just use a dial gauge.
How many mechanics will do that..?? they will just suggest a machine..:)

All the honest ones :D

I had so much rust on one wheel when the car was new I found it hard to remove the actual wheel from the hub. All four hubs have rust on the black painted surface but I clean my underbody every 5K anyway as I rotate the wheels so no problem anymore.

My information, after the 30K service, is that the shudder, similar to the noise you will hear from the ALB system when stopping suddenly, is actually the Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) cutting in and sending fluid to the rear discs from the front discs. You will see this happen in long downhill runs when the brake pedal is depressed for a prolonged period. I couldn't get an opinion on whether this was due to brake fade but I can confirm that I get this when I am on long downhills with prolonged braking (Mona Vale Road at 70KPH plus reducing to 60KPH heading into Mona Vale and down the hill onto Roseville Bridge in traffic - both in northern Sydney).

After the 30K service, the brake fluid has been replaced (30K or 2 years) and the shudder was there after the service as well, heading down over Roseville Bridge. I don't worry about it anymore given that it is a safety feature but then someone will probably give a differing opinion to raise my concern. Cheers...

Zarbs

I had so much rust on one wheel when the car was new I found it hard to remove the actual wheel from the hub. All four hubs have rust on the black painted surface but I clean my underbody every 5K anyway as I rotate the wheels so no problem anymore.

My information, after the 30K service, is that the shudder, similar to the noise you will hear from the ALB system when stopping suddenly, is actually the Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) cutting in and sending fluid to the rear discs from the front discs. You will see this happen in long downhill runs when the brake pedal is depressed for a prolonged period. I couldn't get an opinion on whether this was due to brake fade but I can confirm that I get this when I am on long downhills with prolonged braking (Mona Vale Road at 70KPH plus reducing to 60KPH heading into Mona Vale and down the hill onto Roseville Bridge in traffic - both in northern Sydney).

After the 30K service, the brake fluid has been replaced (30K or 2 years) and the shudder was there after the service as well, heading down over Roseville Bridge. I don't worry about it anymore given that it is a safety feature but then someone will probably give a differing opinion to raise my concern. Cheers...

Zarbs

Off topic, but what did they charge you for the 30,000 km service?

I had the 30K plus wheel alignment, balance, new wiper blades and they replaced the brake fluid. $470 all up at the now Mitsu Dealer - Hunter Holden at St Leonards as Northshore Mitsu have closed their doors. In fact all of the Northshore stuff is gone. They used to do Alfa's and other brands but they closed before the Mitsu dealership. Mind you, the web site still exists but the service shop is boarded up as is the showroom I think.

Hunter is not a good example of a Mitsu dealer and I think the price was a bit high. They charged $58 to change the wiper blades where my 15K service saw a charge of $42 including parts and fitting. Their labour rate must be higher as there is a standard time charge listed for the work. I think I will be back to my local northern beaches dealer next time and stuff the convenience of a workshop close to the office. Cheers...

Zarbs

I had the 30K plus wheel alignment, balance, new wiper blades and they replaced the brake fluid. $470 all up at the now Mitsu Dealer - Hunter Holden at St Leonards as Northshore Mitsu have closed their doors. In fact all of the Northshore stuff is gone. They used to do Alfa's and other brands but they closed before the Mitsu dealership. Mind you, the web site still exists but the service shop is boarded up as is the showroom I think.

Hunter is not a good example of a Mitsu dealer and I think the price was a bit high. They charged $58 to change the wiper blades where my 15K service saw a charge of $42 including parts and fitting. Their labour rate must be higher as there is a standard time charge listed for the work. I think I will be back to my local northern beaches dealer next time and stuff the convenience of a workshop close to the office. Cheers...

Zarbs
Thats interesting....I had my 30000km service yesterday at Penrith Mitsubishi which cost $260 and other than changing the oil & filter, everything else was just 'inspect'. I didnt get the brake fluid replaced however Ultratune would have changed brake & clutch fluid at 30K - not sure why mine didnt get done. I'm curious to know why you change your wiper blades so regularly (especially at $58 a pop)????.

I think the log book states that on the 30k service you should have the brake and clutch fluid changed. If you don't do it, could it cause problems with warranty stuff later on? And if a Mitsubishi dealer is doing the service, shouldn't they be following the log book instructions?

Cheers,
Zolt

Thats interesting....I had my 30000km service yesterday at Penrith Mitsubishi which cost $260 and other than changing the oil & filter, everything else was just 'inspect'. I didnt get the brake fluid replaced however Ultratune would have changed brake & clutch fluid at 30K - not sure why mine didnt get done. I'm curious to know why you change your wiper blades so regularly (especially at $58 a pop)????.


Quote from my service book:

Brake fluid and engine coolant must be changed every 45,000 kms or 24 months irrespective of distance travelled. (whichever occurs first)

get them shaven a bit, are they aftermarket or ori gi nals

I'm curious to know why you change your wiper blades so regularly (especially at $58 a pop)????.

I have always replaced the wiper blades at the service intervals going back at least three previous generations of Verada and a Magna SE and Sigma SE before that. You notice the difference immediately with the new ones. It rained the afternoon I picked the car up and there was none of the previous shudder or streaking.

I won't be going back to that dealership again because, as you observed with your identical service, the service is available elsewhere at much less cost. I only went there because it was close to the office but will return to my regular dealer for the 45K service. The wipers will still get replaced but I'll do them myself at a cost of under $30 for the set. My car being a fully maintained lease, the cost is less evident as the fund picks up the bill but any little saving helps. The only pain doing it yourself is claiming the parts separately.

Call me pedantic but I also rotate my tyres every 5K with the car on jacks as I pressure clean the wheel wells and underside (relax I have two rain water tanks totaling 8500 litres - one is 3500 litres just for washing the car and filling the pool) as well as inspecting the wheel rims and tyres for excess wear and tear along with any oddities and leaks in the under body area. Suffice to say I don't have a lot of faith in the inspections carried out by dealers on all occasions.

As I was dropping my car off on the morning of the service a first gen 380 GT owner asked if was getting the 1500K first service. He was stunned when I told him the car was on the road for 18 months and it was the 30K I was after. So, naturally, wipers are a minor part of keeping the car in good nick. I also spent money buying and modifying the US Galant car bra for my 380 VRX to fit when traveling in the country on long trips.

Years in the Army taught me to look after my machinery and it looks after you (especially when it was a 40 tonne Leopard tank). Cheers...

Zarbs

Quote from my service book:

Brake fluid and engine coolant must be changed every 45,000 kms or 24 months irrespective of distance travelled. (whichever occurs first)

I saw this as well though they didn't change the engine coolant. Only the brake fluid...

Zarbs

I've just booked my recently purchased 380 VRX in for its 24 month service, they quoted me $440 :shock:

They said that would include the brake and engine coolant change as per the log book instructions. I can't believe how much dealer servicing costs. I just hope these guys are good and don't stuff me around.

At my 45000 service my mechanic checked the coolant. It was still testing good so was not changed. 60000 service completed last Saturday with Coolant and Brake fluid changed. All up cost was $217.00.

Dealers will change things as per the book (unless they forget) even when it is not required

Scott C

Just had the 30k service done, and even though they quoted me $440 when I booked it in, when I picked it up it came to $230. So I asked if they did the coolant and brake fluid change and they said no, it didn't need it. So I said the log book states it needs it every 24 months no matter how many k's. He then started to rabble on about when they get the print out from the computer, they only do what the print out says. Sounds like rubbish to me.

Anyway not overly impressed with my first Mitsubishi dealer service, they certainly herd you in and out like cattle, totally different to private mechanics.

So I guess that begs the question, who is right, the log book or the service centre? Maybe I should ring Mitsubishi and find out.

Cheers,
Zolt

So I guess that begs the question, who is right, the log book or the service centre? Maybe I should ring Mitsubishi and find out.


Good idea. Why would that comment get printed in the book ?

Since others have had the same experience it'd be worth a phone call.

I only thought about it after the fact but my obligatory brake and coolant service isn't due for 6 months (the 2 year anniversary) and I had only done 30K. Seems like they cherry picked the best price for service that suited them. Technically, this work should not have happened for 6 months or 15K but they probably viewed that as a lost opportunity at increasing the overall take from my service. Cast me cynical? Dead right. Cheers...

Zarbs

Yer it all seems random to me. I am only at 25k, but booked the service anyway, because I thought when you service the car it's based on time lapsed and k's, whichever you hit first. So because I had hit 2 years, I booked it in.

So maybe the coolant was fine, but the log book doesn't say, "Engine Coolant and Brake Fluid and must be changed every 24 months irrespective of kms - NOTE: if service man tastes the coolant with his tongue and deems it clean, please IGNORE ALL information in this book".

Call me cynical as well, but I am continually flabbergasted with retards that can't follow simple instructions, then blurt random information to cover themselves.

Cheers,
Zolt

I'm in the same boat...I got the 30K service 2 weeks ago and mine is just 24 months old & they didnt replace the clutch or brake fluid either. Ultratune however would have for $40 less than what I paid Mits. I was thinking about ringing them up & asking why they didnt replace it.

Seems to be a common trend, which is fair enough if all dealers are doing it. But there must be a reason why, like have they been informed by Mitsubishi that what's in the log book is overkill or something? I guess we can only find out by ringing Mitsubishi customer care.

I'm still wondering what he meant by the computer printout that tells them what needs doing. I was wondering if that is something they get from Mitsubishi that is refined every so often, or is it a printout based off information from my car? Or he could of been talking bs I guess.

From what i have been informed the Service book is generic for a number of models. So instead of printing up one for each vehicle there is only one for the broad range. Then the service division may have specific ones on computer, that may be the printout story.

this is the info i have been informed of anyway.

Scott C

my brakes have been really squeaky scince new and every time my car get's serviced i ask them to fix it, and they found the problem "hot spot" and was fixed under warranty. Then it came back again after 200km's.
Iam really sick of it, they just keep saying to me it's dust! bull****, I dont even drive on dirt roads, anyways It's pretty embrassing when u have a sweet looking car and then the try and pull up and the brakes are noisy as hell!
My next service will be at ultratune, which my best mates uncle own's 2 of them so I know it will be sorted out once and 4 all. And by the way I just had my 30k service and they didnt change the brake or clutch fluid either?

my brakes have been really squeaky scince new and every time my car get's serviced i ask them to fix it, and they found the problem "hot spot" and was fixed under warranty. Then it came back again after 200km's.
Iam really sick of it, they just keep saying to me it's dust! bull****, I dont even drive on dirt roads, anyways It's pretty embrassing when u have a sweet looking car and then the try and pull up and the brakes are noisy as hell!
My next service will be at ultratune, which my best mates uncle own's 2 of them so I know it will be sorted out once and 4 all. And by the way I just had my 30k service and they didnt change the brake or clutch fluid either?
Its a problem with the 380 and Mitsubishi are looking into it. The only thing that can be done is clean the brakes and deglaze the pads. When they say dust they mean brake dust.

Your best bet is getting aftermarket pads and discs.

Guys,

I get the squeak when I first start for a trip but it goes away shortly after. I too find it frustrating and I tend to not hit the pedal as hard in the early part of a trip to reduce the squeal. I make a point of flushing the brake calipers every time I clean the car with my pressure sprayer but it makes little difference.

I was viewing the purchase of some slotted disks from RPW, where I got my K&N filter, to replace the stock version. It should help with the purging of the dust from the pads and assist with the brake fade issue that is the root cause of the shudder noted at the root of this thread. I went to Lithgow again today and got the same shudder going down Victoria Pass. Don't know what the change would be with the RPW slotted disks.

Interesting reading is the following link:

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=202&Itemid=51

which lists the 380 performance modifications that they know of. Cheers...

Zarbs

From the link I posted above:

3. Brake Upgrades - to suit all future modifications

Before doing any further power or suspension modifications, brakes now need to be seriously looked at. The stock brakes on the front of the 380 are the larger 295mm Twin Piston Caliper font brakes, 284 vented rear brakes. All model 380's suffer from warpage of the brake rotors and severe brake fade after repeated braking applications. (My accentuation) RPW has several upgrades here we highly recomend.

1. For those wanting something marginally better, and are not planning on doing any major horsepower mods, then minor upgrading of front brakes only. Retaining stock calipers, fitment of some Bendix Performac brake pads and RDA slotted Rotors is very beneficial. Braking by around 10% with better feel and dramatically less brake fade. Brake warpage is eliminated.

2. For those wanting something for semi track use / repeated high speed braking, we recomend again the RDA Rotors slotted on front and rear, but upgrading the front to EBC Green Stuff brake pads on the front, and EBC Black Stuff on the rear.

3. For those wanting to go to extreme levels, upgrading to Mitsubishi Brembo four piston 330mm caliper setups front, twin piston 300mm calipers rear are optional as well, but require a minimum of a 16" rim to clear the larger rotor sizes. These are a custom order only from RPW. These are a direct bolt on with great improvements, will work with all ABS system, but requries custom offset rims to clear the larger offset on the Brembo Calipers.

Food for thought on the brake shudder issue...

Zarbs

thanks for that information zarbs. I might look at getting those brake rotors and pads replaced.

Sounds like i might be too hard on the brakes for my car to handle. Shame

I just read through that whole post...250kw....upto 400kw.....thats allot of power, but the money you spend on it....you would think it would be better just to have brought a faster car stock...

Interesting to note that their stage 1 modifications are the same as what we (some of us) have done here... rear muffler, intake, filter, suspension. And from we've experienced, those were the best value for money mods! But from there (ie stage 2) you start shelling out the big bucks.
Fortunately I'm content where I am.

just an update for those interested. I had my brakes done yesterday at midas. They replaced the pads and machined the discs....and......found that a bolt was missing from the front right brake caliper assembly, which was causing the whole assembly to come away from the discs and hit them on the rebound.

This explains the noise i hear over low speed bumps which i attributed to something else.
But at the end of the day the brakes work perfectly again thanks to the guys down at midas FTG.

This explains the noise i hear over low speed bumps which i attributed to something else.
But at the end of the day the brakes work perfectly again thanks to the guys down at midas FTG.

Good stuff :D

Now that you've been thru all that, do you think the standard brakes should be upgraded? Or are you happy with how they are now that they're fixed?

not sure yet. im still bedding them in. I will get back to ya soon and let you know

One big thing that has been overlooked here is do you all use a torque wrench to tighten your wheel nuts.

Mistusbishi's as well as many FWD vehicles have very thin centres on the rotors. This can cause shudder and warpage.

ALWAYS torque your wheel nuts, do not use a rattle gun to put on. Even those new torque sockets are only as good as the operator and the gun they are attached to.

I dont have any shudder, but they squeek like hell under medium breaking. ok under light or real heavy breaking, starting to get real annoying.

just an update for those interested. I had my brakes done yesterday at midas. They replaced the pads and machined the discs....and......found that a bolt was missing from the front right brake caliper assembly, which was causing the whole assembly to come away from the discs and hit them on the rebound.

This explains the noise i hear over low speed bumps which i attributed to something else.
But at the end of the day the brakes work perfectly again thanks to the guys down at midas FTG.
Why didnt you go back to Mitsu and get this fixed on warranty?