im not fully sure of how to hook up 2 (well or more) amps...
im not totally sure how correct i am :confused:
so thought id ask u guys....
you would proberly have more of an idea then me so...

i already have everything wired up for one amp but i need a 2nd amp and want to make sure im wiring it correctly

rca's- just get a rca splitter and run one rca cable to each amp.... simple

p cont./ remote wire- just run from head unit the brach off to both amps??? not sure...

power- buy a distributor block, then run power cable from battery to dist. block then from that to each amp..

ground- ground each amp to different locations

am i correct. ive searched AMC Forums and googled it but havnt found anything consistant..

oh and if i buy a dist. block that runs to 3 amps but only use two of the outputs will this work alright (just incase i buy a 3rd amp to run 6"9" and front speakers when i buy em)

is this distribution block any good??

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HC4020&CATID=&keywords=distribution+block&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

RCA- you only have to spend about $280 to get a source unit that has 3 sets of preouts. This means that it will control a total of 6 channels. It is possible if you spend some more $$$ to get high output voltage to satisfactorly run say 4 channels off each preout. Easiest thing to do to use these is:
4ch for the speakers
Sub amp for the sub
OR
2x 2channel amp
Sub amp for sub.

You will find that most decent sub amps will have RCA out on them which means if you have 2 sub amps, you only need 1 RCA from the source.

Remote wire - What I like to do when running mutlipule amps is only have one wire coming out from the source to the first amp ( there is no particular one, usually the closest ). Then ill run the remote from that amp to the second and so on. It is neater and cheaper ( less cable ).

Power - Now this again is up to you. You can either run the correct Gauge of cable for each amp meaning that say you had 2 amps. One was a 4x 50WRMS and the other was a 1x 400WRMS. With these amps 8ga should be plenty so you would have to run 2 lots into the car. Alternatively my prefered option is to run a single larger cable and then as you said, use a distro block. In the case I would use a 4ga cable into 2x 8ga ( 6ga is rare ). As far as this power thickness goes 8ga, 4ga and 0ga are the way to go ( 2ga is just as expensive as 0ga usually so why not go bigger! )

Depending on which way you go, make sure your fuse(s) are correct. Look at all the fuses on your amps that you wish you run and add the amperage up. Then add about 10% and you will be sweet.

Ground - You can either ground them together or appart. Depends on location. I like to at least ground them in the same facinity if possible. Just remember that it is a good idea to upgrade you batteries earth as well. Usually a single 4ga to the chassis is fine. Bigger is still better though.

I have probably left something out, please add in if you notice. NYE...

does this look correct... i now no that the remote wire goes to 1 amp then to the next not split to both... but couldnt be stuffed changing it... hopefull if its correct it'll help someone else..
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8610/setup2doced5.th.png (http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=setup2doced5.png)

with the rcas... i no getting a head unit with multiple rca outs is better however i have just got mine so dont wanna have to buy another one... so ill just be using a y splitter for now.. and both ground wires will be grounded to in the boot but to different parts as it looks neater that way.. please can some1 let me no if im correct...thanks

yeah looks bout right except the photo is microsize i had to get the glasses out to see it hehe lol but other then that id localize the ground wires so its only 1 hole to drill and sand back etc

yeah.. thanks mate... the pic has a link in it to increase size... kinda new at this posting thing and havnt got inserting images downn yet sorry... so that looks good... sweet now all i have to do is get sum money and buy another amp :D got everything else but the 2nd amp :bowrofl: well wen i get it and install it ill get sum pics to shows u all...
thanks again for all the help guys..

thats good but i tryed that and for some strage reason only 1 amp worked i got a 1500wattrms fusion mono block and a 800 watt 4ch and when i turn everything on the 4ch work's but the mono block won't turn on .....

thats good but i tryed that and for some strage reason only 1 amp worked i got a 1500wattrms fusion mono block and a 800 watt 4ch and when i turn everything on the 4ch work's but the mono block won't turn on .....

have you rechecked your wiring?
could be a faulty ground

thats good but i tryed that and for some strage reason only 1 amp worked i got a 1500wattrms fusion mono block and a 800 watt 4ch and when i turn everything on the 4ch work's but the mono block won't turn on .....

yeah i think Mr_Roberto is right.. proberly your ground wire... coz when i hooked up the amp i have now and turned every thing all on nothing happened but when i moved the ground wire and tried again it was all good:D but when i get my 2nd amp ill try it and let u no how it all goes

Yeah dude just on the remote wire, you do not need to split it. Run 1 single wire from the headunit to one of the amps remote inputs. Then run the remote wire for the second amp from the first amps remote input into the second amps input. Much easier and neater :D

Everything else looks perfect.

I actually split my remote wire (mainly because I hadn't heard of Mr ©harisma's idea :P).

I used cheap-**** speaker wire from Supercheap. You know how you have your positive and negative on each speaker cable? I basically stripped both ends back on one end of the cable, twined them together and then connected it to the headunit's remote wire - it was thin wire so it fitted in fine. Then I just ran "positive" to one amp and "negative" to the other amp. It's a single wire all the way along (I just split it once it reached the boot) so it's still reasonably tidy.

I've always been slightly sketchy on the single fuse for both amps deal. It strikes me that you've got to have a ridiculously large fuse in there for it not to blow under normal high load of both amps and (partially) defeats the purpose of having the fuse.

Perhaps tho' I am too anal in that regard.

That said, I'm probably going to do the exact same thing when I eventually get around to installing my sub and its amp into my system so cheers for making the thread OP and for the useful advice everyone else. :)

I've always been slightly sketchy on the single fuse for both amps deal. It strikes me that you've got to have a ridiculously large fuse in there for it not to blow under normal high load of both amps and (partially) defeats the purpose of having the fuse.

Perhaps tho' I am too anal in that regard.

That said, I'm probably going to do the exact same thing when I eventually get around to installing my sub and its amp into my system so cheers for making the thread OP and for the useful advice everyone else. :)

you will find that most of the people with amps in there cars will have one big single fuse close to the battery, but each amp still has there own fuses too
shouldnt have to worry about blowing the main fuse for the wiring, if its done currectly and the right gear is used then you will have nothing to worry about
also if you dont like the main fuse maybe go for a circit breaker?

Don't worry mjd26, I have rarely seen those main fuses blow. Infact I dont think it has even gone. As Mr_Roberto said, if you do it right the first time you will have no problems.

Remember that the amp has its own protection fuses. Now I have seen serveral of those blow lol

Don't worry mjd26, I have rarely seen those main fuses blow. Infact I dont think it has even gone. As Mr_Roberto said, if you do it right the first time you will have no problems.

Remember that the amp has its own protection fuses. Now I have seen serveral of those blow lol

Yeah, I've noticed that it's pretty hard to get one to pop.
My old Clarion APX400.4 managed to pop a 60amp inline fuse a while ago, but that was at the same instant as it blew both of its onboard 50amp fuses AND the voice coil of my 15" MTX Thunder 4000 sub. :)

Mind you; what sort of rating would you put on the inline fuse if each amp likes to draw independantly at peak as much as 40amp?

Do you just stick an 80amp fuse in there and be done with it?

Yeah, I've noticed that it's pretty hard to get one to pop.
My old Clarion APX400.4 managed to pop a 60amp inline fuse a while ago, but that was at the same instant as it blew both of its onboard 50amp fuses AND the voice coil of my 15" MTX Thunder 4000 sub. :)

Mind you; what sort of rating would you put on the inline fuse if each amp likes to draw independantly at peak as much as 40amp?

Do you just stick an 80amp fuse in there and be done with it?

the way to work out how many amps you'll need in the main fuse is to add all the fuse values up on your amps, then go buy a fuse that will take more amps then what all your amp fuse ratings are
eg. all fuses on my amps come to 130 amps, then main fuse in my engine bay is 200 amps which is more then enough

If you had 2x 40Amp current draws to keep if safe I would use a 100Amp fuse.

mjd26 I have no idea what was going on there. Did you switch the bass boost up or something? Even at +6db you are asking it to theoretically push out 4x the power. If thats at the maximum you are sending your sub to square wave heaven. :D