I've only noticed it recently and even then I thought it was just me, but the clutch peddle in my TH is doing some funny things.
Driving along normally and the clutch feels fine, it engages at the point that I'm used to and there isn't any free play in the clutch peddle.
Half way into a trip or sometimes just down the road, it decides to change the point of engagement (closer to the bottom) and there is about an inch of spring loaded freeplay on the clutch peddle when you first push it in.

I'm thinking the clutch master cylinder is sticking and it might need an overhaul, or maybe the system just needs flushing or bleeding.

Has anybody experienced this kind of thing before, any info would be much appreciated before I rip it apart.

Cheers

Attila

it could be in the master or slave cylinder, or it could be that the pivot of the clutch fork is damaged (if they have one), which is the worst of the 2 options.

The gearbox was reco'd when the clutch was changed 20,000kms ago.
It almost feels like the cylinder doesn't reset/slide back all the way after letting the clutch out.

pop your head under the dash and spray the clutch pedal return spring with WD 40 :nuts:

The pedal itself returns, nothing wrong with the return spring.

In that case it may be that the return spring in the master cylinder is not pushing the piston back fully. Weak/worn spring or a sticky piston.

Rob

I suggest you to overhaul both, master and slave cylinder. Buy genuine repair kit from Mitsubishi and use methylated spirit to clean parts. Use fresh dot4 brake fluid, bleed the system and you'll be right for many years.

master kit and slave kit
and a how to do as a guide only not mitsubishi related

http://www.miata.net/garage/mastercyl.html

Price up the kits vs new cylinders first. In some instances brand new cylinders can be cheaper, or if not, only a couple of $ more than stuffing around honing a cylinder.

Just bought a rebuild kit from mitsubishi, it was $24. I'll try to do it over the weekend and see how it goes.
The only problem is that I don't think it includes any sort of spring (I havn't picked the kit up yet), from what I've been told it only contains seals and gaskets. If it is a worn spring then the rebuild won't be entirely successful.
I gather that those pictures aren't of a rebuild kit.

Springs should (will) be included in the kit. It is not spring that is worn, it is rubber part (seal) of the piston which is.

Springs should (will) be included in the kit. It is not spring that is worn, it is rubber part (seal) of the piston which is.


Kit includes:

-One large seal (prob. piston seal about 1 inch diameter, kind of looks likes a rubber bung)
-X2 small seals about 1/2 inch diamter each
-Small bag of grease

Thats its.

As far as I know repair kit should contain a preassembled piston, spring, boot and grease.
Recently I did master and slave cylinder overhaul on my sons Mazda 626. Paid about $92 for both kits and got all of the above, practically everything except cylinder and pushrod.

This is what is supposed to be in the kit. This one is for Toyota.

http://www.autoelastomer.com/web2/index3.asp?fver=1&ccategoryid=10023144&cproductid=10027804

Ummmmmm Try bleeding the system first before you overhaul it.....
Could be something simple... how much fluid is in the reservoir????

I've found that getting a master cylinder sleeved and rebored is a waste of time.... mine never lasted past 6 months

shop around for a new aftermarket one (Usually the same brand as Mitso has anyways)
They'll last heaps longer..

Steve

Did it after work today, took me about half an hour.
The piston was sticking because the system was a bit dirty and there wasn't enought grease on the seals (prob. a bit of gunk too). Seals seemed fine, cleaned the cylinder with some carby cleaner greased it up properly and bob's your uncle.
The extremly sensitive clutch I had before which was pissing me off and the sticking pedal are now completely gone.

Cheers for the ideas guys

Attila