View Full Version : Changing Supercharger Belt
bushman
09-01-2008, 06:46 AM
As you all have been helpful in the past, here is another question.
The drive belt on the s/charger needs replacing.
What is the best way to change it?
I have put the job down to be done this weekend.
Don't have new belt yet, so any alt part numbers would be great.
Shall post pics.
I have searched threads but have't found any "how toos"
wookiee
09-01-2008, 06:58 AM
http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=774526&postcount=17
cheers,
.wook
EDIT: I don't think anyone has changed their belt yet. if anyone has, it might be andrewd.
good luck with it.
heathyoung
09-01-2008, 11:42 AM
Are you talking the toothed belt or the grooved belt?
I can help here (Fitted one of these kits).
Drive belt (runs off crank, for AC and Alt)
You need to loosen the bolt at the centre of the tensioner, and undo the tensioning bolt (basically the whole way out) - Push down hard on the dynamic tensioner for the blower and the belt should loosen.
You need to put a wooden block under your sump, and take the load off the drivers-side engine mount - the centre of the belt runs through it.
Go down to supercheap and get yourself some deep 18mm sockets (iirc) - a standard socket is too shallow to fit over the bolts. A rattle gun or an impact driver is handy here, or a really meaty 90 degree 1/2" extension bar with a breaker bar. The engine mount is a BASTARD to get off sometimes.
Once you get that bastard engine mount off, you get the belt into position (sometimes it helps to wedge the dynamic tensioner with a piece of timber) and tighten.
Belt is a 6PK1900 - off a Holden Astra. 6PK1900 will give you enough information though.
I have a question for everyone with one of the supercharger kits - do you have problems with the belt shedding lots of rubber bits? Does your belt sit in the middle of the dynamic tensioner or is there a whole lot of room on the LHS and none on the right?
Toothed Belt
You need to remove the drive belt, take out all of the hex bolts and take off the top cover.
Note - you could possibly just remove the hex bolts where the pulley/bearing assembly is - but I think you would have a hell of a time getting it back on again.
The sealant will be broken, so you need to cover the intake runner ports with some gaffa tape and clean off the silicon sealant. Blue loctite 02 safe is fine for replacement, dont use bathroom crap! Sealant is cleaned off very well with a combination of carby cleaner and CRC contact cleaner (really) sprays. Clean off the PCV muck while you are at it as well.
Undo the two hex bolts that hold the front drive pulley on, and get a soft face mallet (wooden or better still - nylon) and knock the pulley/bearing/driveshaft/toothed cog off. It has locater pegs that are TIGHT and so is the bearing in the plenum - if the plenum bearing has the C clip in, the driveshaft will come out, if not, the bearing will as well - clean up the bearing and see how it feels - if its clunky, you may need another - they are sealed NACHI IIRC so you cannot repack them. Blackwoods have them.
Clean up around the bearing housing, there will be a little bit of corrosion from dissimilar metals in contact (ie steel + aluminium) and put some oil around - makes getting the bearing back in easier too.
Now replace the belt, its a Gates Powergrip GT3 8MGT (PN 6 425DS) - an industrial supplier will be able to get them in, used for power transmission on large machinery. They are OK to use when (reasonably) loose - you dont tension them, the blower actually has a small amount of movement in its mounting screws, but tension is set from factory - if you loosen these, you may need to apply more sealant (use loctite red NON hardening flange sealant).
Knock the pulley assembly back on until the locator pegs are ready to be lined up, and then knock it home - if the hex bolts are also tightened during this process it helps keep things nicely lined up.
Put on new sealant and (nice and clean) top cover, and tighten cover hex bolts diagonally.
Refit and Tension drive belt and you are done.
Cheers
Heath Young
wookiee
09-01-2008, 12:00 PM
I can help here (Fitted one of these kits).
You need to loosen the bolt at the centre of the tensioner, and undo the tensioning bolt (basically the whole way out) - Push down hard on the dynamic tensioner for the blower and the belt should loosen.
You need to put a wooden block under your sump, and take the load off the drivers-side engine mount - the centre of the belt runs through it.
Go down to supercheap and get yourself some deep 18mm sockets (iirc) - a standard socket is too shallow to fit over the bolts. A rattle gun or an impact driver is handy here, or a really meaty 90 degree 1/2" extension bar with a breaker bar. The engine mount is a BA$TARD to get off sometimes.
Once you get that bastard engine mount off, you get the belt into position (sometimes it helps to wedge the dynamic tensioner with a piece of timber) and tighten.
Belt is a 6PK1900 - off a Holden Astra. 6PK1900 will give you enough information though.
I have a question for everyone with one of the supercharger kits - do you have problems with the belt shedding lots of rubber bits? Does your belt sit in the middle of the dynamic tensioner or is there a whole lot of room on the LHS and none on the right?
thanks for the info Heath... I thought you might know a bit about it too. there are two belts, right? the toothed blower belt (Gates Powergrip GT3 8MGT (6 425DS)) and the ribbed accessories belt (6PK1900). feel free to correct me.
I haven't noticed any shedding (or shredding) of either belt. I'll have to check it when I get home to see where it's sitting on the tensioner (I've never looked!).
cheers,
.wook
heathyoung
09-01-2008, 12:12 PM
Thats correct. The drive belt (6PK1900) is probably easier to get hold of.
The drive belt seems to be wearing the inside edge (closest to the engine) and spits quite a bit of shredded rubber onto the firewall/engine mount/anything unlucky enough to be in the way.
Its not using the CF cover on the belt, this is probably why I see a bit more. Maybe the belt is a bit tight :/
TZABOY
09-01-2008, 06:13 PM
if u were in NSW i would do it for you, played with mine way too many times :rant:
bushman
09-01-2008, 08:13 PM
if u were in NSW i would do it for you, played with mine way too many times :rant:
As i have noted the tech talk is fantastic.
I still have the job down for thw weekend but will be in Canberra for a wedding over the Aussie long weekend, to take you up on the offer. Sydneys only a couple of extra hours up the road.
Have ordered my Gates Belt but mine has GT2 600 8MGT 30. I got a free lesson in what all the numbers are about. $60 the cost.
There is no real way of adjusting slack out of the s/c belt is there? I am not sure how long the belt has been on the car, but the manual says to change every 50k.
I have only had the car back from the mechanic(no names, i live in vic) for 1000kms. All was ment to be done during repairs. ie plugs belts.
heathyoung
10-01-2008, 06:24 AM
The belt that needs changing will be the serpentine belt for the alternator/aircon - not the gates belt (those things last a LONG time - think timing belt). You only replace them if they look bad - have a look at the factory service manual for details on how to spot a bad timing belt.
If it isn't missing teeth, I wouldn't bother personally. Mine is in the process of shredding its serpentine belt slowly :doubt: need to figure out why - apparently there is a small metal ring to offset the belt if it is not sitting correctly on the dynamic tensioner - when I get 5 minutes to do something :doubt: I might fit it.
The belt is tensioned by the metal expanding on the plenum, blower and pulleys. There is a little adjustment in the blower bolts, but like I said before - you need to make sure its mounted square.
I wish you could do away with the gates belt, I didn't expect it to be as noisy as it is - so much for being a sleeper.
Do a search for my thread on plugs, kit specifies IRIWAY7 but there is an identical (and MUCH cheaper) version. Plug replacement requires removal of the plenum - fun.
TZABOY
10-01-2008, 02:14 PM
I wish you could do away with the gates belt, I didn't expect it to be as noisy as it is - so much for being a sleeper.
how dare you!!! the noise is the best part!!
andrewd
10-01-2008, 02:19 PM
how dare you!!! the noise is the best part!!
the noise is the main reason why i got the s/c in the first place
the money i spen on the kit would have easily bought me a 10sec jap bike if i wanted to go fast lol
the noise it makes is bloody fantastic!!!!!
bushman
10-01-2008, 06:59 PM
The gates belt has movement of 40mm in compressing it. This is making additional noise as you come off revs.
You both say the noise from the belt is great, I say the twin 2 1/2 balanced exhuast sounds better. It all comes together to sound Porsche ish high up in rev range.
I'll pay for a slab of Woodies 440's if your keen with the belt replacement.
heathyoung
11-01-2008, 06:13 AM
Well, the noise annoys me. It gets very grating and is very 'look at me'-ish. Not the desired effect for a sleeper.
I'm in the process of designing a cover that encloses the gates/gilmer belt assembly to shut the stupid thing up. Apparently it comes from the air being squeezed out when the ridges in the belt mate with the notches in the pulley - you can get pulleys drilled with tiny holes for the air to escape to reduce the noise apparently.
Tonba
11-01-2008, 06:17 AM
Well, the noise annoys me. It gets very grating and is very 'look at me'-ish. Not the desired effect for a sleeper.
I'm in the process of designing a cover that encloses the gates/gilmer belt assembly to shut the stupid thing up. Apparently it comes from the air being squeezed out when the ridges in the belt mate with the notches in the pulley - you can get pulleys drilled with tiny holes for the air to escape to reduce the noise apparently.
Also twin screw superchargers [ala sprintex] are also known to make alot more noise... This is also due to the way it compresses the air...
wookiee
11-01-2008, 06:31 AM
mine's fairly quiet... or maybe I'm just used to it. you only really hear it above about 3k RPM.
or maybe my belt is about to break :shock: ??
.wook
bushman
11-01-2008, 10:07 AM
Have got my new belt from the local supplier. $60. Mine has a GT2 belt but the new one is GT3. Asked ifthere was a difference. He rang Gates and was told that the GT3 is a better belt. Early s/c kits had GT2's
Have any of you measured the amount of slack in the belt tension?
I have a cover over mine made out of carbon fibre. Can a template be made from this to assist anyone wanting to make a cover?
There is NO less noise with cover on or off maybe a bit louder with cover on.
If you go to the Sprintex website you can see a photo of the cover. I have had no luck of posting a picture on dialup.
wookiee
15-01-2008, 07:42 AM
just a quick reply for Heath.
I had a close look at my belt over the weekend. I will be replacing the toothed one soon, as it looks fairly worn. I also noticed it's all the way to the right of the blower pulley (i.e. towards the centre of the car).
cheers,
.wook
heathyoung
15-01-2008, 11:17 AM
Interesting. Seems like mine is in the right spot too.
Its not too hard to change a belt on these (could be easier but you get that)
Sports
15-01-2008, 06:40 PM
I'd love to have a gilmer drive system one day for the supercharger if it can be done. I love the noise and I want everyone to go WTF a supercharged magna.
By the way my supercharger is very loud already and soon to be louder :P
TZABOY
15-01-2008, 07:04 PM
I'd love to have a gilmer drive system one day for the supercharger if it can be done. I love the noise and I want everyone to go WTF a supercharged magna.
By the way my supercharger is very loud already and soon to be louder :P
how u making it louder? just more boost? if so it sounds so much meaner :D
Sports
16-01-2008, 02:47 AM
how u making it louder? just more boost? if so it sounds so much meaner :D
Yep :D
heathyoung
16-01-2008, 06:12 AM
Err - the SC already has a 'gilmer' (toothed) belt setup. Do you mean replace the serpentine belt? Good luck getting a toothed AC pulley (electromagnetic clutch).
Sports
16-01-2008, 05:17 PM
Err - the SC already has a 'gilmer' (toothed) belt setup. Do you mean replace the serpentine belt? Good luck getting a toothed AC pulley (electromagnetic clutch).
I must be mistaken on the name, my tuner said there's another setup for the belt side that makes a **** load more noise.
heathyoung
17-01-2008, 06:14 AM
No, Gilmer (toothed) belts make a whole lot of noise. He may be referring to a straight-cut gilmer (as opposed to the modern rounded edge ones).
I would assume that he is going the whole hog (ie replace serpentine belt) but getting the AC pulley will be a bitch.
Why anyone would want more of that noise is beyond me :nuts: but I suppose tastes vary.
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