I want to mod my 2002 Magna TJ Series II, to get the most performance i can out of it with out going towards turbo...

I just need the whole process explained to me coz i've read a few threads about ppls mods and i don't really understand what most of it means, although i am reading up on as much as i can... wikipedia's been helpful...:cool:

Just recently got a new Lukey AL4-5597 Muffler/Exhaust fitted by the guys at Carline in belmont NSW...

I don't know much at all about the mechanical side of cars so i was watching closely that they didnt try to rip me off, in the end they seemed really genuine, they had to replace the inter piping as well as it was a getting a bit rusted...

My exhaust sounds mad compared to stock but i heard i can make it sound deeper and at a better note at higher revs by putting in resonators...

Basically i just need to understand each step fully and the benefits so if anyone can help out i'd appreciate it...

Cheers.

first you need to ask yourself how far your willing to go or how much ur willing to spend there are quite a few small mods that you can get done that are reasonably cheap that will steal you a few extra ponies and my guess is the reason you steering away from turbo is price, if that is so then on the NA path you probably wont want to open the engine which leaves you to basically just improving to air flow in that case you want to upgrade you air intake your inlet manifold your extractors and you exhaust and even get you TB flowed

EZboy can flow you TB and is currently working on a inlet manifold which is in the last stages

the air intake can range from simple to extensive but the easiest way is to get a knn panel filter and a meter of flex pipe to replace you stock snorkel and run it down to behind your front bumper sounds like youre gettin the rest covered

just one question is your car auto of manual if your serious about power youll want a manual

im sure other members will add to list but in the mean time welcome to the club

i'll put it this way...

if you have less than $6k budget, read the following:
Dont bother doing too much else, you wont get much in the way of gains. That muffler will probably be one of the biggest gains you'll get at this budget. CAI will give a good sound, but wont increase power. Extractors may make a small difference, but $$s vs Kw just aint worth it. Is your car auto or manual? If auto, converting to manual will net around 1/2 sec off your 1/4 mile time, which is a big difference! This can be done from anywhere between $1k-$3k.

If you have more than $6k in the budget, read on:
You can choose either NA, Twin turboed or supercharged. You can get over 200kw at the wheels, but it will take time, money and effort. Expect the possibility of problems as well (ie dont do it to a daily driver, as it will be off the road from time to time).

So, how much u got 2 play with? :)

put it this way i have an auto which i have chosen to go N/A, and is a great little project, i have done extractors, hi flow cat, and a muffler for around 1000. iv got a pod filter which you can pick up for around 150, then you can either get RPW to hi flow your TB or ez - boy. next im looking at getting cams and a plenum, but cams are comeing first only because im waiting to see the reults of ez-boys plenum. later in the year im looking at doing a manual converison, but because im in WA noone wants to do it :doubt: anyways thought i would just share my experience. hope this helps. oh if your patient i belive there is a new S/C being built at the moment by raptor i think it is, could be an option down the road.

mike

Thanks for replies, my cars a 5pd manual, the reason why i wasn't going to go for turbo yet is because i'm still on my P's... i'll keep spending money on my car as it comes in.. the lukey muffler/exhaust and tip set me back $550 and i just bought $440 worth of interior momo accessories....

EDIT:
Just thought i'd add that when i got the muffler put in they had to replace the inter piping as well.

Atm i have $1500 to spend on performance mods but i'll have more money soon... so i'm not setting a limit on the amount that i am going to spend, i'll just keep getting things done as i get more money.. i basically just need to know what to start with and why etc... so im gonna have to look up a lot of the abbreviations used coz i don't understand them yet hehe..:confused:

So all help would be appreciated..:cool:

Cheers...:D

if you can save that 1500 and wait till another member named ezboy gets his custom manifolds into production, that a high flow TB and a decent CAI will make the car rev better and so on.

well you cant really just take it 1 step at a time, at 1 point you need to work out what you wanna do with it. to do cams, you need to work out if theyre for NA or forced induction, and if you go forced the CAI becomes pointless...

So at some stage you have to work out where ur going with it all...

well you cant really just take it 1 step at a time, at 1 point you need to work out what you wanna do with it. to do cams, you need to work out if theyre for NA or forced induction, and if you go forced the CAI becomes pointless...

So at some stage you have to work out where ur going with it all...

Well i really just want to mod it to its maximum performance possible... for fast accelleration and maximizing the kW/HP as well as keeping a nice v8 like deep sound with the exhaust (i want it deeper consistently tho) -

all this with out having to go turbo, but when i get my full license i want the setup i choose now to accomodate (as easily and cost effective as possible) for putting in a twin turbo setup like off of RPW (http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=5&id=28&Itemid=40)

So where shud i start? :doh: :D

Just thought i'd add that when i got the muffler put in they had to replace the inter piping as well.


Yeah you mentioned that in your first post as well........... so ummm.... WTF is "inter piping"??

I've never heard of it.

So where shud i start? :doh: :D

the bank is usually a good place to start :P

Yeah you mentioned that in your first post as well........... so ummm.... WTF is "inter piping"??

I've never heard of it.

Like i said i don't know much about the names and mechanical side of cars so i was just saying what was listed on the invoice... if im correct it's basically the rest of the piping thats between the lukey muffler and the catalytic converter on my car... so yeh anyway...:boohoo:

first you need to ask yourself how far your willing to go or how much ur willing to spend there are quite a few small mods that you can get done that are reasonably cheap that will steal you a few extra ponies and my guess is the reason you steering away from turbo is price, if that is so then on the NA path you probably wont want to open the engine which leaves you to basically just improving to air flow in that case you want to upgrade you air intake your inlet manifold your extractors and you exhaust and even get you TB flowed

EZboy can flow you TB and is currently working on a inlet manifold which is in the last stages

the air intake can range from simple to extensive but the easiest way is to get a knn panel filter and a meter of flex pipe to replace you stock snorkel and run it down to behind your front bumper sounds like youre gettin the rest covered

just one question is your car auto of manual if your serious about power youll want a manual

im sure other members will add to list but in the mean time welcome to the club

btw thanks for the welcome toocky.. :D
i'm gonna do some research on some of the info i've got from everyone so far...

as i said all the help u's can give is appreciated...

cheers.

by the sounds of it you are keen to go the forced induction route as soon as you can, in that case you don't want to waste money now on items that are only going to get replaced down the track if you are keen then you could start doing all the supporting mods that benefit a forced induction set up such as rebuilding your engine with stronger internals, better and bigger valves and springs and a nice set of lumpy cams but they would probably be best to left until you have gone turbo so that you have a nicer ride in the mean time, a expensive CAI and extractors are pointless as they will be replaced with a turbo set up but the throttle body and plenum are still worth it also you could upgrade you fuel system and get an after market ecu

if you have got big performance in mind then you should have big handling in mind as well no point having a fast car if u cant stop or turn with that in mind you can get strut braces, sway bars, camber kits , bigger brakes also an lsd diff from the sounds of it RPW have got a good turkey diff

the only thing you may find discouraging is that you wont get that great of a performance boost until the turbo is installed but when it is you will have a lot of room to move and will gain quite alot

just keep in mind you final goal with you car and work towards it

Like i said i don't know much about the names and mechanical side of cars so i was just saying what was listed on the invoice... if im correct it's basically the rest of the piping thats between the lukey muffler and the catalytic converter on my car... so yeh anyway...:boohoo:

it was probably a short for 'intermediate piping' between resonator and muffler.

welcome to the club. At this stage if I was you i would maybe wait until EZ brings out his manifold. I think for n/a it will bring the best gain behind a rear muffler change. And maybe put the rest toward extractors and cai to help that note your'e looking for. that be around your 1500 spent:cool:

by the sounds of it you are keen to go the forced induction route as soon as you can, in that case you don't want to waste money now on items that are only going to get replaced down the track if you are keen then you could start doing all the supporting mods that benefit a forced induction set up such as rebuilding your engine with stronger internals, better and bigger valves and springs and a nice set of lumpy cams but they would probably be best to left until you have gone turbo so that you have a nicer ride in the mean time, a expensive CAI and extractors are pointless as they will be replaced with a turbo set up but the throttle body and plenum are still worth it also you could upgrade you fuel system and get an after market ecu

if you have got big performance in mind then you should have big handling in mind as well no point having a fast car if u cant stop or turn with that in mind you can get strut braces, sway bars, camber kits , bigger brakes also an lsd from the sounds of it RPW have got a good turkey diff

the only thing you may find discouraging is that you wont get that great of a performance boost until the turbo is installed but when it is you will have a lot of room to move and will gain quite alot

just keep in mind you final goal with you car and work towards it

So right now i should get:

brakes (what brand and type shud i get?)
diff (do i buy a limited slip diff?... what brand and type? etc..)
ecu (do u mean like a unichip?)

On the RPW website they used these for the suspension setup:
Lovell's 60mm Lowered front springs, 40mm Lowered rear springs
Koni Sport Shock Absorbers - Externally Adjustable Front, Internally set to middle setting rear.
White line rear sway bar kit
White line front strut brace
White line Anti Lift Kit
White line upgraded front sway bar kit
Kmac Adjustable front Camber Kit
should i get these as well Or what exactly should i get from this website http://fastmagna.com/products/whiteline/CK_Magna_TE.PDF

How do i go about upgrading the throttle body, plenum and fuel system? - should i just follow the same steps as listed on the RPW website, if so until i go turbo to what extent shud i follow it? no valves, springs and cam upgrades until i go turbo?

What exactly do extractors and CAI do to help performance and what are they? will a new airfilter assist with performance?

Also more importantly.. what order shud i do all this in?

I know there's way too many questions in this post.. there just necessary for me to understand properly.

Cheers. :D

alrighty with brakes theres a couple of ways to go, i recently purchased the front calipers off a 380, 294mm DBA 4000 rotors bendix ultimate pads and braided lines cost including installation was 1085, braking performace increased 200% from standard and if you hit the picks hard it feels like my eyeballs are going to pop out. TZABOY can kit 330mm rotor and caliper kits off a corvette c6 (i think) and i remember him mentioning around the 1800-2k mark dont know what its like as i havent got it. Other then that Brembo's off an evo do fit The Ego's just done his id say he will be around shortly and give you costings etc.

As for rear's not a hell of a lot around theres a group buy for a 284mm vented DBA rotor going match that with the ralliart/awd caliper and new lines estimated cost so far is about the 800-900 once you get the few components thats required.

As for suspension components RPW arent the only ones that can get whiteline,koni and lovell, Supercheap,Autobarn,Repco etc etc can all get whiteline in and can be cheaper because you wont pay for 2 lots of frieght (if you dont live in perth).

Diffs got no idea about what ones are what just wait till one of the other trolls comes around and they will post about them.

Ecu's: a lot of discussion of late about what one is best etc the general basis is usually Haltec,adaptronic and so on id say someone will be on soon that will elaborate on this further.

The throttlebody and plenum as said before wait until ezboy's got his into production as what ive read will be far cheaper and generate more power then rpw's units, and he also highflows TB's as well.

So far my mods were as follows:
AL4-5597 rear box fitted myself.
K&n panel filter and a CAI made up from 90mm ducted tubing running into one of my foglight holes.
380 brakes
then various interior mods, manual gear shift boot sound system new seats etc etc
and 18 bboss eleanor rims

made the car a whole lot better to drive sure its not the speediest thing on the street but hey it gets me from a to b fast enough :P im just waiting on ezboy's plenum to come into production then ill get that also a high flow TB, ralliart cams, a head job a FPR and either a piggyback or intercepter unit. Cost for those will be about 4k ish mark (havent done the exact figures) and thats what i plan as the final for this car. I cant justify spending 15k on turbo'ing a motor and not having a car for 2-3months. Ill just buy a legnum or evo that its been turbo'ed from factory and has the system there ready for it. And it would be cheaper as well

I'll talk about what I know and have researched...

brakes - many different options.

fronts
-as magna00 said, you can get 380 calipers and 294mm rotors that bolt straight on.
-or Ralliart/AWD calipers and 294mm rotors that bolt straight on.
-or the Hopper Stoppers kit (330mm DBA4000 rotors, C6 calipers (used on HSV and FPV), braided lines and everything to bolt straight on)(both TZABOY and myself have this kit).
-or you can get Brembos from an EVO IV (I think it's the IV).

rears (not so many options for the rears)
-you can get Ralliart/AWD calipers and 284mm rotors that bolt straight on (but there are no aftermarket rotors, and OEM Mitsu ones are about $350 each). of course, you could add your name to my group buy for DBA Ralliart rotors (http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53697).
-or the Brembos from above.

diff again, a couple of options
Cusco (been known to break under certain circumstances)
OEM Ralliart (tough as nails, quite spendy)
Quaife (lifetime warranty, cheaper than Ralliart, no one's broken one yet)

suspension
I have:
Lovells Lows (the 40mm ones) all around,
Koni Yellows (fronts on-car adjustable, rears set to hardest setting)
Whiteline Rear Adjustable 22mm sway bar (w/ mounting kit)
Whiteline Front HD 24mm sway bar
Whiteline Camber pins

IMO the car handles superbly, sits flat through corners and is only a little choppy over the rough stuff. I also have the Strut Brace, but it won't fit with the blower on :(

intake/exhaust
the aim of intake/exhaust mods is to make the car breathe better. more air in means more fuel in which means more power.

extractors will make a small amount of difference on a stock engine. when you start doing serious mods to the engine, the extractors will help even more.

standard intake in the magnas is pretty good. most people on here either replace it with a pod filter and run piping from the lower front bar, or modify the existing snorkel to add a pipe that runs from the front bar. that's what I have, along with a K&N panel filter. there's not much gain to be had out of just changing the filter, but it turns out to be cheaper in the long run ($80 on a K&N filter vs $20 each for paper filters).

hope this helps.

cheers,
.wook

I'll talk about what I know and have researched...

brakes - many different options.

fronts
-as magna00 said, you can get 380 calipers and 294mm rotors that bolt straight on.
-or Ralliart/AWD calipers and 294mm rotors that bolt straight on.
-or the Hopper Stoppers kit (330mm DBA4000 rotors, C6 calipers (used on HSV and FPV), braided lines and everything to bolt straight on)(both TZABOY and myself have this kit).
-or you can get Brembos from an EVO IV (I think it's the IV).

rears (not so many options for the rears)
-you can get Ralliart/AWD calipers and 284mm rotors that bolt straight on (but there are no aftermarket rotors, and OEM Mitsu ones are about $350 each). of course, you could add your name to my group buy for DBA Ralliart rotors (http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53697).
-or the Brembos from above.

diff again, a couple of options
Cusco (been known to break under certain circumstances)
OEM Ralliart (tough as nails, quite spendy)
Quaife (lifetime warranty, cheaper than Ralliart, no one's broken one yet)

suspension
I have:
Lovells Lows (the 40mm ones) all around,
Koni Yellows (fronts on-car adjustable, rears set to hardest setting)
Whiteline Rear Adjustable 22mm sway bar (w/ mounting kit)
Whiteline Front HD 24mm sway bar
Whiteline Camber pins

IMO the car handles superbly, sits flat through corners and is only a little choppy over the rough stuff. I also have the Strut Brace, but it won't fit with the blower on :(

intake/exhaust
the aim of intake/exhaust mods is to make the car breathe better. more air in means more fuel in which means more power.

extractors will make a small amount of difference on a stock engine. when you start doing serious mods to the engine, the extractors will help even more.

standard intake in the magnas is pretty good. most people on here either replace it with a pod filter and run piping from the lower front bar, or modify the existing snorkel to add a pipe that runs from the front bar. that's what I have, along with a K&N panel filter. there's not much gain to be had out of just changing the filter, but it turns out to be cheaper in the long run ($80 on a K&N filter vs $20 each for paper filters).

hope this helps.

cheers,
.wook

Thats some really useful information since im looking at upgrading my brakes. regarding suspension I have stage 2 sports ryder coils, and stage 1's on the back, something different to most people on here. The stage 1's are very stiff, and are considered to be the same height as super lows, also very stiff. Probly no help, but i thought i would just share my 2c.

mike

I probably wont be going turbo for another 2yrs until i at least get my blacks so in the mean
time i want to get out as much performance as i can, i definitely want more power out of it
for off the mark speed and power longevity, but i also want better handling on corners etc...


brakes
diff
suspension

extractors will make a small amount of difference on a stock engine. when you start doing
serious mods to the engine, the extractors will help even more.
standard intake in the magnas is pretty good. most people on here either replace it with a
pod filter and run piping from the lower front bar, or modify the existing snorkel to add a
pipe that runs from the front bar. that's what I have, along with a K&N panel filter.
there's not much gain to be had out of just changing the filter, but it turns out to be
cheaper in the long run ($80 on a K&N filter vs $20 each for paper filters).
Brakes:
-front-
*Hopper Stoppers kit (these ones sound mad)
-rear-
*Ralliart/AWD calipers
*DBA 4000 ralliart disk rotors (which ones 42429 or 4417?)
Suspension:
*The suspension i listed in my last post from RPW's mod car, is that setup for circuit racing?
and is the anti-lift kit very beneficial
Driveline:
-From RPW- (is this the way to go, considering the ralliart oem's are expensive?)
*Fitment of Quaife LSD system, providing greater control and driveability compared to the Cusco unit.
*8 paddle clutch semi ceramic clutch disc with 50% heavier cover plate
*RPW Polyurethane performance mounts on front of engine and transmission.
Engine:
-So i shud start with-
*K&n panel filter
*CAI
*Extractors (By by serious engine mods do u mean cam, manifold & TB upgrades?)
*Upgrades to Cams (DOHC)
*Ezyboys manifold, throttle body and plenum (so the TB controls the amount of air flowing into the engine? and what exactly is the plenum, couldnt find info on it, ppl just say "throttle body and plenum")

Do i need some kind of sports clutch and gearbox? i think my clutch needs adjusting, its
slipping a bit and the gear stick is starting to feel a bit stiff when im shifting fast sometimes... its not bad or anything, just wondering if there's room for improvment there?

Also wondering if Resonators are a waste of money? since i was told that they would give a nice deeper more consistent note at higher revs.. but no one's really mentioned them..
a expensive CAI and extractors are pointless as they will be replaced with a turbo set up i'll probably go turbo in about 2 yrs, so it's a little while to wait
before i can increase the performance dramatically.. do u think i shud get the extractors and
CAI in this case...

i mean i may change my mind about turbo over a 2 yr period but in the mean time i want to get everything as high performance as possible...

we need a new wiki made up i think :) so much stuff here would be easier to put on a wiki, and the old one is getting outdated, as well as forgotten about!

I probably wont be going turbo for another 2yrs until i at least get my blacks so in the mean
time i want to get out as much performance as i can, i definitely want more power out of it
for off the mark speed and power longevity, but i also want better handling on corners etc...

Brakes:
-front-
*Hopper Stoppers kit (these ones sound mad)
-rear-
*Ralliart/AWD calipers
*DBA 4000 ralliart disk rotors (which ones 42429 or 4417?)

the Hoppers kit was about $1700 this time last year. give them a call to see if it's changed.
the DBA 4000 Ralliart rotors (42429) aren't available at the moment. we need 25 orders before DBA will do a run of 50 pairs. the last count was 13.


Suspension:
*The suspension i listed in my last post from RPW's mod car, is that setup for circuit racing?
and is the anti-lift kit very beneficial

it's not for circuit racing. my car is an every day (or every other day) driver. I don't have the anti-lift kit, so I can't say much about it.


Driveline:
-From RPW- (is this the way to go, considering the ralliart oem's are expensive?)
*Fitment of Quaife LSD system, providing greater control and driveability compared to the Cusco unit.
*8 paddle clutch semi ceramic clutch disc with 50% heavier cover plate
*RPW Polyurethane performance mounts on front of engine and transmission.

that's the way I'm going when I finally get around to throwing a manual in my car.


Engine:
-So i shud start with-
*K&n panel filter
*CAI
*Extractors (By by serious engine mods do u mean cam, manifold & TB upgrades?)
*Upgrades to Cams (DOHC)
*Ezyboys manifold, throttle body and plenum (so the TB controls the amount of air flowing into the engine? and what exactly is the plenum, couldnt find info on it, ppl just say "throttle body and plenum")

that is what I mean by serious engine mods. if you change the cam, and throw a different plenum and throttle body on it, the engine's breathing will change, and tuned length extractors will make more of a difference.

the plenum is the piece that delivers the air to the cylinders. it has 6 longish "fingers" which run into the cylinders. you'll see it as the silver/grey metal object on top of the engine. it is sometimes called the intake manifold.


Do i need some kind of sports clutch and gearbox? i think my clutch needs adjusting, its
slipping a bit and the gear stick is starting to feel a bit stiff when im shifting fast sometimes... its not bad or anything, just wondering if there's room for improvment there?

might be worth going to a transmission specialist and having it checked out. the standard gearboxes (from what I've heard) are pretty strong. if you start making lots of torque (not likely until you go forced induction), you will want a heavy duty clutch.


Also wondering if Resonators are a waste of money? since i was told that they would give a nice deeper more consistent note at higher revs.. but no one's really mentioned them.. i'll probably go turbo in about 2 yrs, so it's a little while to wait
before i can increase the performance dramatically.. do u think i shud get the extractors and
CAI in this case...

i mean i may change my mind about turbo over a 2 yr period but in the mean time i want to get everything as high performance as possible...

I take it you're talking about exhaust resonators. depends what you're trying to do with them. if they are installed in an effort to keep your exhaust in the legal db range, then they're great. otherwise, they just create more turbulence in the exhaust flow.

CAI is an easy (and relatively cheap) DIY, so you can do that whenever you feel like it. if you turbo it later on, you'll probably do all custom pipe work, so you'll end up with extractors that you don't need anymore. I would hold off until you know exactly what you want to do.

cheers,
.wook

if you turbo it later on, you'll probably do all custom pipe work, so you'll end up with extractors that you don't need anymore. I would hold off until you know exactly what you want to do.
but that said if you have the money now and want the bit more performance in the mean time then im sure in 2 years time you could resell them on here to another member


*Upgrades to Cams (DOHC)
if your lookin at upgrading your heads from SOHC to DOHC then you also looking at a new whole kettle of fish as the heads have different sized, shaped and orientated ports in that case they will affect not only your extractors but your lower inlet manifold which will in turn affect your upper inlet manifold (plenum) if your keen on this course (and if your after power its a good idea) then you should follow screaminTE's thread in the mods section as he is the first member that i know of that has swapped just the heads across and from what i under stand ezboy's plenum might be able to be used on both plat forms though not interchangeable

sounds like you've got some good ideas and know what you want if you can stand not havin huge performance gains straight away then maybe you could upgrade your handling, braking and the diff and GB b4 you start on the engine

made the car a whole lot better to drive sure its not the speediest thing on the street but hey it gets me from a to b fast enough :P im just waiting on ezboy's plenum to come into production then ill get that also a high flow TB, ralliart cams, a head job a FPR and either a piggyback or intercepter unit. Cost for those will be about 4k ish mark (havent done the exact figures) and thats what i plan as the final for this car. I cant justify spending 15k on turbo'ing a motor and not having a car for 2-3months. Ill just buy a legnum or evo that its been turbo'ed from factory and has the system there ready for it. And it would be cheaper as well

......and this will make your car go faster how?:bowrofl:

......and this will make your car go faster how?:bowrofl:

will make me feel invincible so hence i will use to go fast pedal to go insane speeds :P

Looks like im gonna upgrade the following first:
Brakes
[front]
Hopper Stoppers kit (330mm DBA4000 rotors, C6 calipers, braided lines)
[rear]
DBA 4000 rotors part # 42429 (284mm x 20mm, 56.5mm hat height) Gold XS (cross drilled) and Ralliart/AWD Calipers
Suspension
Lovell's 40mm front & rear springs.
Koni Sport Shock Absorbers (Externally Adjustable Front, Internally set to middle setting rear)
Whiteline Rear Adjustable 22mm sway bar (w/ mounting kit)
Whiteline Front HD 24mm sway bar
Whiteline Camber pins (im not sure what kind i shud be getting)
White line Anti Lift Kit (i just want to look into this)
Other
K&n panel filter
CAI
Extractors (what kind shud i get?)
High flow TB and Plenum (I guess i'll wait for EZ Boy to complete his)

Pretty much in that order too, just wondering if there is anything that needs to be customized to fit all of this and what the reasonable costs are for getting things fitted that i can't do my self..

Also wondering if the brakes will fit my magna? being stock 15 or 16" wheels (i think) etc... but i will to upgrade them to 18" rims and low profiles later...

I'm getting there...

Also wondering if the brakes will fit my magna? being stock 15 or 16" wheels (i think) etc... but i will to upgrade them to 18" rims and low profiles later...

I'm getting there...

yeah you will need a bigger rim for the hoppers kit a 17 or 18 will be needed to clear the caliper and rotor. Alos with your rotor dont go cross drilled they look cool but tend to crack between the holes when stressed id go the 6x6 design still looks good but a lot stronger and works more efficently

yeah you will need a bigger rim for the hoppers kit a 17 or 18 will be needed to clear the caliper and rotor. Alos with your rotor dont go cross drilled they look cool but tend to crack between the holes when stressed id go the 6x6 design still looks good but a lot stronger and works more efficently
What about 284mm rotors and the awd calipers will they fit my current wheels?
For the rear i mean...

What about 284mm rotors and the awd calipers will they fit my current wheels?
For the rear i mean...

If you have a 16 inch rim then yes. 15 no more then likely to hit the rim however andrewd managed to get 15's on his awd...

If you have a 16 inch rim then yes. 15 no more then likely to hit the rim however andrewd managed to get 15's on his awd...
Since i need to upgrade the wheels etc..

Can u guys give me your opinion on these rims?... I was looking at CSA's initially and the guys at O'Neils recommended "speedy" rims coz they are apparently just as good quality as CSA and cheaper... i dunno really i thought they were all pretty much the same..
Gold ones (i wanted gold to go with the blue paint):
http://www.speedywheels.com.au/images/zoom/envy-gold.htm
http://www.speedywheels.com.au/images/zoom/lite-7-gold.htm
The whole range:
http://www.speedywheels.com.au/alloy.htm

Also will 18 or 19" fit with out any issues? (and legally)

Now i love my Verada and all, but you may wanna sit back and look at the costs involved in all the work you have planned... Do the sums, add it to the value of your car, and see if: a) you have those funds, and can afford it (do you have a house/rent?), and b) is it worth it to u...?

Theres a very good chance it could add up to $20k+ (allowing for high power output, big brakes, plus the cosmetic mods), and $20-$30k can buy you some nice performance cars...

Just have a think about it all, and dont go in too eager... Bear in mind, that for $20k, you could have this sitting in your garage:
http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modules/dealers/car_images/45508772-1.jpg
http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modules/dealers/car_images/45508772-2.jpg
http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modules/dealers/car_images/45508772-3.jpg

2.5L Twin Turbo, AWD, all the features of a Verada... Its like the daddy evo ;)

Just weigh it all up dude... As i said, i love my car and all, but it would take alot (probably a powerball!) to go hi-po on it. Not to mention i'd worry about all the time off the road it spent (fitting the parts, problems when something goes wrong... coz it will!)

Also will 18 or 19" fit with out any issues? (and legally)

yep as long as you get the right rubber it will be fine

Now i love my Verada and all, but you may wanna sit back and look at the costs involved in all the work you have planned... Do the sums, add it to the value of your car, and see if: a) you have those funds, and can afford it (do you have a house/rent?), and b) is it worth it to u...?

Theres a very good chance it could add up to $20k+ (allowing for high power output, big brakes, plus the cosmetic mods), and $20-$30k can buy you some nice performance cars...

Just have a think about it all, and dont go in too eager... Bear in mind, that for $20k, you could have this sitting in your garage:

2.5L Twin Turbo, AWD, all the features of a Verada... Its like the daddy evo ;)

Just weigh it all up dude... As i said, i love my car and all, but it would take alot (probably a powerball!) to go hi-po on it. Not to mention i'd worry about all the time off the road it spent (fitting the parts, problems when something goes wrong... coz it will!)
Cheers, Yeh for now im just doing the brakes and suspension and getting cosmetic parts and accessories from wreckers at the cheapest prices i can find... i just bought the whole dash, vents and console area off a magna like mine at the wreckers for $20 and i'll get my dad (he's a spray painter/panel beater) to colour it silver, also got a steering wheel for $75 that im gonna mod..:badgrin:

But as for the engine area it will only be K&n panel filter & CAI for now, coz i already have a lukey muffler and when EZ Boy brings out his TB&Plenum i'll grab them...:D

Also, it's really not about the money i spend, i could probably end up replacing everything in the whole car and getting a paint job later down the track, it's like a project/hobbie for me and the hands on side of it helps me to learn more about everything involved...:cool:

I'm just gonna make my car as comfortable and as customized to my preference as possible (inside & out), no point in selling it if it's gonna provide everything i need while giving me a project to work on and an accomplishment at the end.. ;)

yep as long as you get the right rubber it will be fine
Cheers, are ur tyres ultra low profile?

yep as long as you get the right rubber it will be fine
Cheers, are ur tyres ultra low profile?

see this post (http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=815732&postcount=45).

it's more complicated than just the right rubber.

cheers,
.wook

Welcome to the site nimble.

Make sure you shop around for your parts..

RPW is one of the biggest rip off places around. They have huge mark ups on new and 2nd hand parts and just about every quote is a different price from 1 customer to the next.

Stick with local places and people like EZ Boy off the forums (whose dedicated to getting parts as cheap as possible to AMC members)


As this is your first car, spend as little as you can on it. You will want to be upgrading it in a few years..


Under the hood:
Cat back exhaust (already done)
Pacemaker extractors will suit your needs.
K&N Panel filter.
Some flexi pipe to add on a 2nd cai to your existing.

Suspension:
King Springs Lows all round (or Superlow fronts)
Koni red shocks

Brakes
Check out TZABoys Ralliart.. Very handsome set of brakes - Hes got the Hopper Stoppers..

Not really sure why youd want to upgrade your brakes yet?



P.S - Go buy yourself an AMC sticker to stick on that beasty of yours.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50174

see this post (http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=815732&postcount=45).

it's more complicated than just the right rubber.

cheers,
.wook
Cheers for that info... ;) so if i grab the 18x8.0" instead of 19s with 8.5" will i still need an offset? and assuming the laws are the same in NSW as ACT the 8" shudn't need to be certified right..?

Cheers for that info... ;) so if i grab the 18x8.0" instead of 19s with 8.5" will i still need an offset? and assuming the laws are the same in NSW as ACT the 8" shudn't need to be certified right..?

you'll still need to get the right offset. I have 18x8 with a +38 offset and they fit (just).

they may need to be certified depending on how much you change the track. mine changed it by right on 25mm the first time my mechanic measured, and the 26mm the second time, so he had to certify them.

cheers,
.wook

Welcome to the site nimble.

Make sure you shop around for your parts..

RPW is one of the biggest rip off places around. They have huge mark ups on new and 2nd hand parts and just about every quote is a different price from 1 customer to the next.

Stick with local places and people like EZ Boy off the forums (whose dedicated to getting parts as cheap as possible to AMC members)


As this is your first car, spend as little as you can on it. You will want to be upgrading it in a few years..


Under the hood:
Cat back exhaust (already done)
Pacemaker extractors will suit your needs.
K&N Panel filter.
Some flexi pipe to add on a 2nd cai to your existing.

Suspension:
King Springs Lows all round (or Superlow fronts)
Koni red shocks

Brakes
Check out TZABoys Ralliart.. Very handsome set of brakes - Hes got the Hopper Stoppers..

Not really sure why youd want to upgrade your brakes yet?



P.S - Go buy yourself an AMC sticker to stick on that beasty of yours.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50174
Thanks for the welcome ;)

With the brakes i feel as tho the car cant stop as well as it can go/take off if that makes any sense... i was driving home one day just cruising at the speed limit... and this guy in front of me indicates and pulls over to the left, so i attempted to pass him coz he was parking (just like an everyday thing), then suddenly he just hooked it right out in front of me as if doing a u-turn... i just didnt have the braking power or time to prevent hitting him, i tried to use the gears to stop, slammed it str8 into 2nd and braked ... anyway i hit the rear corner of his car and sent him into a 180 spin...

Just one of the reasons why i want to upgrade the brakes, but also because as i increase the power of my car and start going faster, i need the braking power too...

Suspension - so why no strut brace, sway bars or camber kit? and whats the diff between the koni yellow, reds and sports.

I want the car at least 2inchs lower than it is now...

I've just asked EZ Boy about getting my TB high flowed too and then i'll wait on his inlet manifold..

Someone here was selling second hand rpw extractors but i think they're sold now...

I'm not jumping str8 into things tho...im shopping around, i bought my accessories and interior stuff from ebay and wreckers...altho im not getting low quality stuff either..:badgrin:

Cheers again...:)

Thanks for the welcome ;)

With the brakes i feel as tho the car cant stop as well as it can go/take off if that makes any sense... i was driving home one day just cruising at the speed limit... and this guy in front of me indicates and pulls over to the left, so i attempted to pass him coz he was parking (just like an everyday thing), then suddenly he just hooked it right out in front of me as if doing a u-turn... i just didnt have the braking power or time to prevent hitting him, i tried to use the gears to stop, slammed it str8 into 2nd and braked ... anyway i hit the rear corner of his car and sent him into a 180 spin...

Just one of the reasons why i want to upgrade the brakes, but also because as i increase the power of my car and start going faster, i need the braking power too...

Suspension - so why no strut brace, sway bars or camber kit? and whats the diff between the koni yellow, reds and sports.

I want the car at least 2inchs lower than it is now...

I've just asked EZ Boy about getting my TB high flowed too and then i'll wait on his inlet manifold..

Someone here was selling second hand rpw extractors but i think they're sold now...

I'm not jumping str8 into things tho...im shopping around, i bought my accessories and interior stuff from ebay and wreckers...altho im not getting low quality stuff either..:badgrin:

Cheers again...:)

Youre right about the brakes not being the best. You could initially just upgrade the rotors, brake pads and brake fluid. (far cheaper and a fairly substantial upgrade to the stock crap that mitsu supply the car with)

The strutbrace, camber kit and sway bars are certainly worthy upgrades, but i wouldnt place them ahead of the suspension i mentioned changing.
If you want to buy these then you can get them direct from Whiteline or from our forum sponsor.

As for the RPW extractors, get the pacemakers at 1/3 the cost. They do exactly the same thing.

Just dont buy from RPW.

Case in point.

3-1 Street Design Kit - 6G72 SOHC 24v (http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=381&category_id=92&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31)



See that link? See the picture. That picture has been taken by me in my backyard. They are pacemaker extractors that hes trying to fob off as his own dodgy brand.

3-1 Street Design Kit - 6G72 SOHC 24v (http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=381&category_id=92&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31)



See that link? See the picture. That picture has been taken by me in my backyard. They are pacemaker extractors that hes trying to fob off as his own dodgy brand.

:shock:

****in hell!

I've wondered what differences there were to justify such a vast difference in price...

...and exactly how the 'Race' spec headers are supposed to be so much better?

Just got a quote from O'Neils for the tyres and rims fitted.

Envy MK II - Gold Centre Chrome Lip
(Size - 19x8.5 Offset - ET30 Stud Pattern - 5x114.3
$400 each

Toyo 19" Tyres - 245/35/19 T10
$420 each

Total: $3280

Sounds a bit steep to me... thoughts?

just shop around on them i brought my Bboss'es from Bob jane in kotara give them a ring for a quote were better then a lot of tyre shops i rang price wise and fitment and aftersales were really good

I pay ~$220 for my 19' rubber, but they are mates of mine.

I could probably get em for ya for ~$250 each if it suits you.......

I pay ~$220 for my 19' rubber, but they are mates of mine.

I could probably get em for ya for ~$250 each if it suits you.......
Cheers for that.. ;) sounds good... im still waiting for a quote to come back on monday, my dad use to be in the business so i asked him to find sound trade prices for me... :D what kind of payment methods can u accept, cash only?

A couple of other things i was looking at.. I checked out the King springs on their website and on there it says Front Low: Lowers vehicle approximately 30mm below standard. and Super Low coils are generally 40-50 below standard.

However in their product catalogue it has the TE-TW lows listed as 45mm for front and back with the date range 4/96-05 then there's the 30mm lows with date range 4/96-3/97...

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1745/85178214sh0.th.png (http://img213.imageshack.us/my.php?image=85178214sh0.png)

I mean im confused coz the lows are only meant to be 30mm lower, is it a typo? also further down is a another listing for a magna TE-TW but it's for super lows and only for the front with no info on how much lower it is.

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/4813/50988246ei0.th.png (http://img266.imageshack.us/my.php?image=50988246ei0.png)

So what i get from all this is that if the lows are really 45mm then i shud go with them front and back... Part #KCFL-42 and Part #KCRL-43 (even tho its a contradiction of what they say about the lows initially) any thoughts?? :D

Cheers for that.. ;) sounds good... im still waiting for a quote to come back on monday, my dad use to be in the business so i asked him to find sound trade prices for me... :D what kind of payment methods can u accept, cash only?

They are a legitimate business, will accept all methods of payment, Cash, EFT, Credit and/or GE Money if you are inclined.

I also have a set of King Low Rears in my shed, probably got ~2000km on them if you are interested.

yeah king made 3 types of spring for the te-tw a 30mm sport, 45mm lowered (what i have) and superlow 50-60mm (front only) and yes those part numbers are for the 45mm lowered units.

Just got a quote from O'Neils for the tyres and rims fitted.

Envy MK II - Gold Centre Chrome Lip
(Size - 19x8.5 Offset - ET30 Stud Pattern - 5x114.3
$400 each

Toyo 19" Tyres - 245/35/19 T10
$420 each

Total: $3280

Sounds a bit steep to me... thoughts?

them wheels wont fit if you lower the car more than 0mm

and will look stupid


take it from me i know these things

you need atleast a 40-45p offset!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!


and that price if ****ing spastic

i just got my brand new 20's for under 2k

them wheels wont fit if you lower the car more than 0mm

and will look stupid


take it from me i know these things

you need atleast a 40-45p offset!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!


and that price if ****ing spastic

i just got my brand new 20's for under 2k

The larger offset is to bring the wheel out more right?

So if i get the ET48 Offset for the 19x8.5 everything shud be fine?

I think i'll get the springs/shocks first....

Cheers... ;)

them wheels wont fit if you lower the car more than 0mm

and will look stupid


take it from me i know these things

you need atleast a 40-45p offset!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!


and that price if ****ing spastic

i just got my brand new 20's for under 2k

they werent the Bboss's were they?

they werent the Bboss's were they?

b boss wheels only come with a 40-45p offset


if you get a 30p offset the front wheels will sit outside the guards and it will rub everywhere

if you get 45p offset you can lower it 4" on 20's and it wont rub at all!

b boss wheels only come with a 40-45p offset


if you get a 30p offset the front wheels will sit outside the guards and it will rub everywhere

if you get 45p offset you can lower it 4" on 20's and it wont rub at all!

no no thats not what i meant lol i meant with the price did you get the bboss's under 2k? ive got 18's with the 45 offset no rubbing at all and thats with king 45mm lowered

no no thats not what i meant lol i meant with the price did you get the bboss's under 2k? ive got 18's with the 45 offset no rubbing at all and thats with king 45mm lowered

can get b boss 20s for not much more

yeah i paid 2440 for mine with eagle F1 tyres (18 btw) that was from bob jane kotara

Just wondering... Untill i get the new rims/tyres there's no problem with putting the koni yellow shocks, 45mm king springs and bump stoppers on my current stock wheels is there?

nope. i ran lowered springs for ages until i got my rims just make sure you get a wheel alignment once you lower it.

Damn those bbosses look good... can u get them in gold?..... Edit: nvm i just looked... cheers.

Hey magna00 any chance of getting u to post a bigger res pic of ur car like the one in ur avatar...:)
Cheers.. ;)

Edit: also just wondeirng how ur F1 Eagle tyres are, do they have good traction in the wet?

Cheers..

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/403/27102007001zy2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The eagle F1's are fantastic little tyre noise, excellent wet and dry grip, sturdy sidewall, and a great all round tyre. They are a little expensive though but they are well worth the money.

Cheers for that... i can't find those parbolics anywhere... none of the wreckers have them... and the guy at rathmines has a verada coming in but he wants $300 each for the headlights... :shock: and he says the grilles expensive as well... told me buying a written off verada would be cheaper...:nuts:

Sounds hard to believe...

I found that buying a functioning Verada was even easier, saves me having to swap stuff around.

Trying to find a good CAI DIY guide... having troubles, coz everything i find is mixed with a bunch of irrelevant crap....:rant:

I saw CAI Kits on RPW...too expensive tho imo :confused:

Does anyone know of a good CAI guide? :D

Cheers... ;)

I found that buying a functioning Verada was even easier, saves me having to swap stuff around.
Do u mean as in replace my magna with a verada? i couldn't find any at the auctions when i bought my car... plus was hard enough to find any manual magna/verada... and i'll only drive manuals.. :badgrin:

Trying to find a good CAI DIY guide... having troubles, coz everything i find is mixed with a bunch of irrelevant crap....:rant:

I saw CAI Kits on RPW...too expensive tho imo :confused:

Does anyone know of a good CAI guide? :D

Cheers... ;)



just make one ffs its not that hard this is what i have with a K&N panel filter and it works well it gets cold air from the bottom of the front bumper.

Just used some of the original intake and some pipe. 10 minute job and works great

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/9516/image018lz7.jpg

just make one its mot that hard this is what i have with a K&N panel filter and it works well it gets cold air from the bottom of the front bumper.

Just used some of the original intake and some pipe. 10 minute job and works great

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/9516/image018lz7.jpg
I was more so looking into something like The Ego's one... adding another one on instead of replacing the original...
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23328&d=1153037890
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23329&d=1153037890

Just wanted a guide on what to use cutting the whole out... and best way to position the piping, what to use to seal it on etc..

Cheers.. ;)

Here's a pic of mine with nothing yet...

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/707/iphonepic003any5.jpg

Bigger:
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/8287/iphonepic003ald3.th.jpg (http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?image=iphonepic003ald3.jpg)

Use a jigsaw.

I initially used the above method on my old KE, then scrapped it and went to the CAI that BJ31OS now has on his car. Then had the NZ CAI on it aswell.

And now I have the standard intake. And its just fine.

Use a jigsaw.

I initially used the above method on my old KE, then scrapped it and went to the CAI that BJ31OS now has on his car. Then had the NZ CAI on it aswell.

And now I have the standard intake. And its just fine.

Im getting these this week:
HF Throttle body (just waiting for EZ Boy to reply me...lol )
K&N Panel Filter (getting one i saw at RPW for $70, can't find cheaper yet)
Pacemaker Extractors (don't know where to get some at a good price yet)

So i wanted to have good cold air intake... is the stock cai on my car sufficient?...coz other ppl have been telling my to add a second flexi pipe on to the current... :confused:

Im getting these this week:
HF Throttle body (just waiting for EZ Boy to reply me...lol )
K&N Panel Filter (getting one i saw at RPW for $70, can't find cheaper yet)
Pacemaker Extractors (don't know where to get some at a good price yet)

So i wanted to have good cold air intake... is the stock cai on my car sufficient?...coz other ppl have been telling my to add a second flexi pipe on to the current... :confused:

I had all of these on my KE and the stock setup is fine.

My KJ has the Panel and the Pacemakers, TB when I get around to it, I also have Ralliart Cams, and the stock intake is still more than enough.

If it was so restrictive they would have done something about it when they did the Ralliart Magna, or Sprintex would have redesigned it if it was too restrictive for their kits, neither thought it was an issue, so why would it be required on a N/A magna?

I had all of these on my KE and the stock setup is fine.

My KJ has the Panel and the Pacemakers, TB when I get around to it, I also have Ralliart Cams, and the stock intake is still more than enough.

If it was so restrictive they would have done something about it when they did the Ralliart Magna, or Sprintex would have redesigned it if it was too restrictive for their kits, neither thought it was an issue, so why would it be required on a N/A magna?
I thought i'd just have a go at doing one anyway.. did this my self tonight, gonna fit it tomorrow... here's a pic:

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/1622/iphonepic026ur2.jpg

I thought i'd just have a go at doing one anyway.. did this my self tonight, gonna fit it tomorrow...


What did you use? Jigsaw? Stanley knife? Hole Saw?

Also doesnt silastic/silicone stuff have the potential to damage sensors? Thought I read that somewhere, could be completely wrong however.

What did you use? Jigsaw? Stanley knife? Hole Saw?

Also doesnt silastic/silicone stuff have the potential to damage sensors? Thought I read that somewhere, could be completely wrong however.
Just a drill with the cylinder piece... then used hot glue gun to seal.. :)

I'm not sure about the silastic/silicone damaging sensors.... i hope not... :confused: