Hey guys just wondering at what point is a third gen magna considered to have to many KM's? all opinions are welcomed :)

Edit: for example a 96 to 00 Model:

764,932kms

764,932kms

:bowrofl:

depending on what model really id say 96-00 anything more then 150k your wasting your time 00-05 anything more then 100ish k same again. I purchased mine with 48k for a 2000 TH magna for 10k. They are out there just keep looking one will come up

764,932kms
I would have thought it would have been 764,933 kms... We will have to agree to disagree!






Stupid thread. lol

:bowrofl:

depending on what model really id say 96-00 anything more then 150k your wasting your time 00-05 anything more then 100ish k same again. I purchased mine with 48k for a 2000 TH magna for 10k. They are out there just keep looking one will come up

thanks for a decent answer, and not one an ape could come up with *cough*

post a stupid question get a stupid answer.

post a stupid question get a stupid answer.

perhaps i should have added more information i was refering to the 96 to 00 range

Well... How do you define too many kms? You cant just say they expire at xxxkms. You need to look at the car and suss it out. I sold a TF with 300,000 on it and it had heaps of life in it. And i have seen cars at 100,000 that were shagged. So who knows?

Well... How do you define too many kms? You cant just say they expire at xxxkms. You need to look at the car and suss it out. I sold a TF with 300,000 on it and it had heaps of life in it. And i have seen cars at 100,000 that were shagged. So who knows?

thanks for that, :)

it pretty much comes down to the owner and previous owners if it has full log books, well cared for no reason why a te tf or th wouldnt last 300,000+k's personally id look for around the early 100k mark and make sure they have a reciept of the timing belt change with there log books id say it would be a decent buy.

My only other question is how often do CV-Joints get replaced? and whats the cost on those,

it pretty much comes down to the owner and previous owners if it has full log books, well cared for no reason why a te tf or th wouldnt last 300,000+k's personally id look for around the early 100k mark and make sure they have a reciept of the timing belt change with there log books id say it would be a decent buy.
Thats what my old one was like. It had oil changes every 7500 kms and didnt use any either. Had a new clutch at 250,000, new springs and shocks and powered bloody well for a 3.0. So i see no reason for that car not hitting the 500,000 mark without any major engine work. Just the usual sundries!


My only other question is how often do CV-Joints get replaced? and whats the cost on those,
Mine never had these done. Mainly because i never gave it heaps on full lock and put stress on the joints. Treat the car right and it will serve you well.

My only other question is how often do CV-Joints get replaced? and whats the cost on those,

usually around 200k and about 110 for a complete unit each side (much cheaper in labour to get complete sides) haveseen cv's last a hell of a lot longer then that though

usually around 200k and about 110 for a complete unit each side (much cheaper in labour to get complete sides) haveseen cv's last a hell of a lot longer then that though

ahh ok thanks, just was told its one of the things to lookout for in magna's apparantly, then again it could be like that with most cars, im not sure

"welcome all opinions" is like a red flag to a bull. Serious answer? if you find one with flogged cv's it's done too many k's whatever tey are. manuals might be harder on them than autos. find a car with a proper service history, even if the owner did oil changes themselves.

dada verada has 350xxxkm on it now and its a bucket of **** but still on 1st motor and trans and still running strong

his has a harder lafe than most cos its driven hard and always has the aircon on and is left to idle for extended periods

providing the trans and engine are good the km dont matter cos a magna thats done 10000km and a magna thats done 400000km the same parts are going to need to be replaced... tyres shocks engine mounts brakes cv's timing belts etc...

My girl is at 245,000 atm, is that too much for a 99 altera?

Oh I put in $50 of PULP the other week and it's given her an extra bit of grunt back. I got destroyed by a Crappodoor for crying out loud and that rang alarm bells so I got the PULP.

My girl is at 245,000 atm, is that too much for a 99 altera?

Oh I put in $50 of PULP the other week and it's given her an extra bit of grunt back. I got destroyed by a Crappodoor for crying out loud and that rang alarm bells so I got the PULP.

PULP? im clueless as to what your referring to :P

PULP? im clueless as to what your referring to :P


Premium Unleaded - its the 95RON stuff.
better than the 91RON that the cars are tuned for.

the higher octane might have cleaned the fuel system out a little bit, but third gens dont have a knock sensor - so running higher octane wont make a difference powerwise on its own.

I know it's not a 96-00 Magna but my EA has 520,000 on it and it still drives a lot better than all the other cars I'd looked at buying, including a VP, a KS and a Daewoo Cielo (wtf) which were all 5 to 9 years newer and all had less than half the EA's kms. Just goes to show that with any car, it really all just comes down to how well it's been looked after.

My '98 TF had 150,000 and it ran beautifully. Given 'average' use, you'd expect 125-175k kms on a car of the age you're looking at. But don't necessarily be put off by high kms, get more information, how well has it been serviced, any wear items been replaced, etc etc. Good luck :)

Well I recently bought a KJ 02 Ei with 97,000k on the clock for a reasonable price, and had its Major service done.

Things I tend to look for is well looked after interior, full service history, and all major services completed on time...

And the no. 1 factor I have learned in this expedition of buying a 3rd gen magna...

Make sure that the steering rack is in good condition! They are a weakness in magnas because of the poor turning circle being front wheel drive, and also a great deal of people have no idea how to drive and dry steer everywhere, puts so much strain on the steering components!

[QUOTEpeople have no idea how to drive and dry steer everywhere[/QUOTE]

excuse my ignorance, but whats 'dry steering':confused:

Glen

excuse my ignorance, but whats 'dry steering':confused:

Glen

im pretty sure its turning the wheels while not moving, creates a lot of stress on the pump and steering rack.

also holding it on full lock can boil the power steering fluid as well, a few mechanics have mentioned it while in chat about steering racks

im pretty sure its turning the wheels while not moving, creates a lot of stress on the pump and steering rack.

also holding it on full lock can boil the power steering fluid as well, a few mechanics have mentioned it while in chat about steering racks

to avoid the 'full lock' problems, people should learn that when they need a hard lock turn, to turn it all the way to the lock possi, then BACK OFF the steering wheel a few degrees until it feels 'free-er' than it does on lock.

makes the steering components last longer IMO.

i thought the dry steering was more a problem of trying to turn the front wheels when the engine wasnt running though?

to avoid the 'full lock' problems, people should learn that when they need a hard lock turn, to turn it all the way to the lock possi, then BACK OFF the steering wheel a few degrees until it feels 'free-er' than it does on lock.

makes the steering components last longer IMO.

i thought the dry steering was more a problem of trying to turn the front wheels when the engine wasnt running though?

yeah probably thats what dry steering is, i dunno but i dont hold mine on full lock and dont turn when not moving, habits from driving quite a few cars without power steering :D