just looking at doing up some cai out of 3" 304 stainless with mandrel bends (now that i have the gear for the tig). I have a 3.0l so i have mapped out a path for the piping but just need to know if the 3.5l have the same dimensions in the engine bay, and if they dont, would any members be willing to be a test dummy (cai will be free ofcourse).

afaik the only difference between the 3.0 and the 3.5 is that the 3.5 is 18mm taller in the block and bored out to 3.5 the induction piping should be the same.

ok thanks for that

Stainless looks great... but in all reality, it will heat up quite a bit and after heatsoak it will become useless. PVC pipe would be better. wont absorb the heat as much and will cool quicker aswell.
Just my 2c

yeah i know......but i couldn't care less cause i'm not chasing 1/2 sec on the track (cause can only do 110km/h on the road anyways. Dont really see how the air is going to heat up that much through a 1m of pipe when its constantly moving :confused: . that and atleast with stainless i can fix it properly to the car. not really happy with the aggy pipe look :P .

How much is it gunna cost ya? my guesstamate would be about $30 a bend need about 3 of em and a meter of tube at about $30... About $120 for the staino +time....????

Or you getting the stuff from work... ??? :D

personally if you can tig weld i'd use aluminum over stainless for the cooling properties alone

Alu is actually pretty cheap too, but the thin stuff is murder to weld...

Nothing wrong with stainless either, at least it won't look like you have a drain pipe through your engine bay :bowrofl:

I'm about to redo my inlet on my TH sports. going to be making it short as possible.

will post up pics when i'm done.

yeah i know......but i couldn't care less cause i'm not chasing 1/2 sec on the track (cause can only do 110km/h on the road anyways. Dont really see how the air is going to heat up that much through a 1m of pipe when its constantly moving :confused: . that and atleast with stainless i can fix it properly to the car. not really happy with the aggy pipe look :P .

sorry but had to ask. why are you doing the CAI at all, if your not chasing 1/2 sec on the track

sorry but had to ask. why are you doing the CAI at all, if your not chasing 1/2 sec on the track

because the stock engine bay looks like its going to a funeral. :bowrofl: just dont like the stock look.

i can weld aluminium but i get stainless for nothing (i'm an ex-welder/boilermaker).

Can't lose then mate!

Make up a intake pipe aswell and a MAF adapter to keep it in the same spot but move the pod to somewhere cooler.

hoping to get the pod down where the driving lights are meant to be.

That would be ideal, but keep the MAF in the stock position and if possible after at least 200mm of straight pipe to avoid the dodgy MAF syndrome.

This is how I ended up, no problem at all.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o248/MagnaTech07/DSC00153.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o248/MagnaTech07/DSC00152.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o248/MagnaTech07/shortram.jpg
It's a silicone hose with SS pipe.

Just forget about the engine cover, I know it doesn't look so nice :)

thats looks good....how much trouble was it to move the battery

Not much trouble, simple bracket bolted at the chassis, white (plastic) chopping board as battery tray:D , and wires for MAF/battery extension.

Nice sig :bowrofl:

:shhhh: