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View Full Version : Good Vibrations - Bad Vibrations and tyre choice



TR 300000
25-01-2008, 02:37 PM
Some of you might remember the vibration problem I had at this post:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54970

I've had the car back to the mech and they changed the CV shafts again which didn't improve the situation. They told me that took the car down to a tyre place (don't know which) who told them that it was probably my tyres causing it and that Goodyears had a reputation for causing this sort of vibration (ie under acceleration). They are Eagle GAs.

While I'm not convinced this is the cause, the tyres are quite old and are due for replacement soon so I will go ahead and change them and see what happens. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good quality tyre? I'm looking to go for 15s again and want quiet ride and good grip.

Matt
25-01-2008, 02:44 PM
They told me that took the car down to a tyre place (don't know which) who told them that it was probably my tyres causing it and that Goodyears had a reputation for causing this sort of vibration (ie under acceleration). They are Eagle GAs.


a tyre doesnt change under acceleration, if anything there is less load when on the gas so if there is a problem it should be less noticeable. if there's something wrong with a tyre (out of roundness/balance) the vibration will generally increase with wheel-rpm and remain constant whether u are accelerating or coasting, until you get to a speed where the vibration cancels out.....sounds like they cant work out the problem so are trying to pass the blame. its gonna suck when you get new tyres and the problem is still there.
havent read your previous thread so this might have been mentioned.

Ozzcaddy
25-01-2008, 05:57 PM
Possibility is that you actually have flat spots on one or more tyres. I had this problem many years ago on a Falcon XD Sedan. The flat spot was on the left rear tyre and gave a rumbling noise at any speed. If you run your hand around the whole tyre you can actually feel the flat spot if there is one.

I have Kumho Tyres 205/65 - 15, and can highly recommend them. I do mainly inner Sydney driving, and I have got 40,000 k's out of them over 4 yrs which is not too bad for that type of driving. They will need replacing shortly.

Ozz

Madmagna
25-01-2008, 06:09 PM
I can reccommend the Kumo's as they are great, had them on my Verada

As for tryres not causing this, they actually can if they are not round With a FWD you can feel this on acceleration easily.

bob Jane All Rounders (outa rounders) are well known for this problem

Can also be front wheel bearings as well so do not discont these

TR 300000
25-01-2008, 09:27 PM
I got the car back from the mech and the vibration is much worse than it was before. I've had it. I will be dealing with this problem myself. They are obviously not interested in me or my car. Tomorrow I'm checking all the work they did plus hub nuts, wheel nuts and bearings and take it from there. I think it's high time I eliminated mechanics from my life and got on with learning to fix this this stuff myself.

I'll rotate the wheels around but there's no way I believe the amount of vibration I'm getting is coming from the tyres. As soon as i put my foot on the clutch the vibration disapears even while the wheels are still turning at the same speed.

Steevo
25-01-2008, 10:42 PM
Hey mate,

could well be the cluch itself,check the clutch disk or transmission input shaft,these things when rooted will stop vibrating when you depress the clutch,much like you explained

Steve

wombat
25-01-2008, 11:15 PM
I have eagle GA's on my car too, my steering wheel shakes under brakes but i think its just a wheel balance problem, anyway i dont get any shaking like what your explaining with the tyres i have and mine are also due for replacement.

_x_FiReStOrM_x_
26-01-2008, 07:43 AM
I have eagle GA's on my car too, my steering wheel shakes under brakes but i think its just a wheel balance problem, anyway i dont get any shaking like what your explaining with the tyres i have and mine are also due for replacement.

Brake rotors warped.

Madmagna
27-01-2008, 10:54 AM
Guys, read his symptoms before you make your stupid Diagnosis!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(firestorm, not directed at you as you are replying to another post)


So after chasing around what could be causing my car to have rough acceleration between 1500 and 2300 rpm and getting no where I took it to the mechanic.:confused:

And no, the force is with him so Dath Vader has not trashed his drive shaft either

He has no vibration under braking, not when he takes off, it is under acceleration at 1500 - 2000 rpm, brakes are off, clutch is not released so none of these.

Could still be dodgy reco shafts, bearings etc, check the torque of your wheel nuts, check your lh inner shaft is located on the lay shaft properly etc

TR 300000
30-01-2008, 08:08 PM
Have the car at another mechanic now looking at this vibration. Been there two days now and not solved yet. They're being very helpful.

They've:
Changed the CVs again with a loaner set - small improvement but still vibrating a lot
Put a dial indicator on the intermediate shaft - no problems
Thoroughly checked engine mounts - no problems
Attempted to load engine while stationary but unable to detect any engine problems

The mechanic does not think it has anything to do with tyres - anyway I rotated them and it didn't change a bit.

Tomorrow he's taking it to his "engine man" to get his opinion - maybe it is a funny miss that only appears under load.

If no dice after this then it anyone's guess what I'll do next. Full engine analysis at Mitsubishi I suppose....

Gerard
30-01-2008, 08:28 PM
are you driving on a bumpy road?

RuSSiaN
30-01-2008, 10:09 PM
Low profiles will always get worse vibrations at higher speeds.

I have 21560R16 Goodyear Regatta's which cost about $135 each and had no tyre issues at all.

TR 300000
01-02-2008, 08:12 AM
Ok, my mechanic has had the car for three days and spent a lot of his time and expertise on trying to diagnose what's causing this vibration.

Here's what he did:

• Tried a third set of shafts in the car – minor improvement.
• Put a dial gauge on the transfer shaft – found within specs
• Examined and tested the engine mounts – all in good condition
• Engine balancer checked and found in good condition
• Ran the car on the hoist to see if he could observe the problem – nothing
• Took it to a drive shaft specialist who said it felt like a driveline problem.
• Tried to put load on the engine while stationary to see if he could replicate the shudder/vibration – no dice

In general he said that perhaps a combination of a bit of lowering, engine mount sag and crossmember distortion might be causing the shafts to bottom out, however he also said that there is NO EVIDENCE of any of these defects being present on my car. He doesn't think it's tyres either and anyway I rotated these and threw the spare on the front and there was no change.

He's completely puzzled.

So am I.

AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!

Next step - take it to Mitsubishi for an opinion and an engine analysis on their computer thing.

TR 300000
05-02-2008, 09:27 AM
OK. The foreman at Nundah Mitsubishi reckons it's a poorly reconditioned drive shaft. He wants to pull mine apart and look for a telltale sign that the shaft has a problem. I'll post back when the answer is definitive.

When I told him I wanted to keep the car long-term and couldn't think of a better vehicle for my purposes he said, "well, it goes like a rocket".

TR 300000
07-02-2008, 07:45 PM
Ok this saga is now at an end.

It turned out that the two sets of drive shafts I'd had installed had faulty inner joints. Combined with this (or perhaps contributing to it) was the fact that the shafts had not been installed correctly the left had shaft being rammed home without seating the circlip properly. Apparently it was about 10mm out of its proper location. Steve at Nundah Mitsubishi found the circlip broken and the splines all chewed up. They installed another two replacement shafts for me but checked that the inner joints were in good condition first.

In our first conversation on the phone Steve explained that he suspected the inner shafts and explained in detail what can go wrong with them. Later in the day he had disassembled one and had found it was damaged exactly as he had predicted. There's no doubt he knows his stuff and it's worth every cent of their 123 dollar per hour labour charge.

So much for specialist CV shaft installers who aren't savvy to potential problems and who can't even install properly. They even told me "mate, it's the tyres" Bah!

All my serious mechanical work will be done at Nundah Mitsu from now on.

_x_FiReStOrM_x_
07-02-2008, 07:47 PM
So much for specialist CV shaft installers who aren't savvy to potential problems and who can't even install properly. They even told "mate, it's the tyres" Bah!

That just makes me feel sick... lol