Hey all,
I got given an 1986 TM magna for nothing and its still stock standard and i want to do mods to it. I've already put in a CD player and im planning on putting in two 12" subs in a box but i need an amp and amp wiring but i dont know weather to get a 2 channel or 4 channel amp because i want to get new rear speakers and not sure if im gonna run the rear speakers through the amp. I want to concentrate on the exterior mods for the moment so any ideas would help.
Cheers,
:D

the first gen melbourne forum members will post shortly

suggestions
get an TN elite alternator 85 amp the TM is low amp when adding more toys

extractors

Fit powersteering system off a TN

yours would be a carby model is this a manual TM


later on

if possible an EFI conversion



Mine is an automatic TM model

Just out of interest how mechanically minded are you? There is a huge range of mods some easier to carry out then others.

Performance:
Extractors
Falcon weber carby
Cold air intake/pod filter
2nd Gen roller rockers

Exterior:
Elante Body kit (get these from a wrecker for cheap)
Elite atom alloy wheels/After market alloys.

Interior:
Painted console
Power mirrors/Windows
Digital Dash
Elite seats
Climate Control
Central locking

and sweet another vic 1st genner, i think thats like 6 active members now.

more to it, another carby owner :D

personally wouldn't be doing a pod filter with a carb setup, bit of customisation, and in the end a replacement K&N does same effect with cost.

If you want cheap mods, spec with the fact u have a TM, less emissions crudder.

Straight thru rear muffler
k&n filter
magna elite rims with new tyres
replace all ure essentials, spark plugs, leads, get some 8mms, fuel filter.
Then your radiator coolant, check ure thermostat and hoses.
Change your oil and check ure brake fluid.

Should have a sweet running ride with abit less weight to move and abit better brething ability.

After all this you can look at some more serious gains if you wanna persue, bigger zorst piping, a cam, new fuel system, be it carb (better imo :P) manual if you want it, etc.

BTW for audio, there is limitless posibilities, I'm still only 65% thru my sedan audio install, but I have 1000W of bass going in the boot thru a monoblock, and it will pop the trunk i reckon if i give it some.
All based on your budget and want in the end.
Enjoy.

more to it, another carby owner :D

personally wouldn't be doing a pod filter with a carb setup, bit of customisation, and in the end a replacement K&N does same effect with cost.

If you want cheap mods, spec with the fact u have a TM, less emissions crudder.

Straight thru rear muffler
k&n filter
magna elite rims with new tyres
replace all ure essentials, spark plugs, leads, get some 8mms, fuel filter.
Then your radiator coolant, check ure thermostat and hoses.
Change your oil and check ure brake fluid.

Should have a sweet running ride with abit less weight to move and abit better brething ability.

After all this you can look at some more serious gains if you wanna persue, bigger zorst piping, a cam, new fuel system, be it carb (better imo :P) manual if you want it, etc.

BTW for audio, there is limitless posibilities, I'm still only 65% thru my sedan audio install, but I have 1000W of bass going in the boot thru a monoblock, and it will pop the trunk i reckon if i give it some.
All based on your budget and want in the end.
Enjoy.

I've already replaced all the essentials, but for some reason i think i have a bigger problem with the transmission or engine (not quite sure at this stage)

I've already replaced all the essentials, but for some reason i think i have a bigger problem with the transmission or engine (not quite sure at this stage)
Can you describe what it is doing?
Any number of things can go with a gearbox and engine, the more we know, the more we can help.

Can you describe what it is doing?
Any number of things can go with a gearbox and engine, the more we know, the more we can help.

Everytime it changes from first to second it makes a huge clunk and it revs way to high wen it changes gears all the time. I've had the transmission looked at by a machanic and they say its fine but its worse than it was.:cry:

I'll bet it's the TCU (Transaxle Control Unit or "Transmission Computer"). Not too hard to fix, should be able to source one from the wreckers. That's all I can say for first gens though, I haven't serviced one first hand so I can't be 100% certain how to fit it, etc.

Had exactly the same symptoms on my TR, neither the mechanic nor the automatic specialist could figure it out, but it turned out to be the TCU.

Thanks, i'll hav a look and see if it is that.
it's been doing it since last year and its driving me nuts.:doubt:

Aströn Boy and Magna91 are correct

its located on the floor pan under the radio

and you just get another from the wrecker till you find one that works

you use the mitsubishi oil only its the cheapest and a filter change

the oil has to be bright red if brown the out has disc and drive plate problems

the torque converter with low oil pressure can also give you the same result

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=824

there is no diagnostic plug i know of .... you have to go and check every sensor

the TM auto is a little different but the carby model also has a TPS and that needs to be set a 0.5 volts if you get a different reading you are on the wrong wire

I've got all of that checked out but its not any of it, i dont know wat else it could be. Its driving me crazy.

funny enough I have a similar problem with my FTO, but when it goes into 5th gear.
Again, auto service, etc etc, to no avail could we find why it clunks, and even resetting the tcu doesnt fix it, also diagnosed the tcu, and still nothing.

there has to be an obvious reason, but it seem uncommon and unknown how to fix.

best I can recomend as i did with my station wagon is source a better gear box, since you have a tm g/b, by sourcing a tp g/b with loom and pwr/ eco switch, along with a service and tcu check would def solve the issue.


then again that is the expensive way out.

but the funny thing is, i've already had it checked out today. They checked out everything that people have suggested and still nothing, its still happening. its pissin' me off now:bowdown:

does it only do it from 1st to 2nd, mine will rev an extra 500rpm before changing to 3rd gear from 2nd, more obvious when i drive it slow, but it's always there.
I find when its a damn hot day, and I was low on fluid the car would clunk on the downshift...

You have any of that?

does it only do it from 1st to 2nd, mine will rev an extra 500rpm before changing to 3rd gear from 2nd, more obvious when i drive it slow, but it's always there.
I find when its a damn hot day, and I was low on fluid the car would clunk on the downshift...

You have any of that?

Mine does it from 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd to 3rd but i notice it more wen i drive slow, its a pain. mine does the same on a hot day too.:doubt:

torque converter stall test
and tps setting

fit an oil cooler when possible


torque converter stakk test
and tps setting

According to my mechanic, i've already got oneand he's trying everything u seggest and nothing is working. i really dont know wat it's caused by.

if the TCU TPS and torque converter test ok
the right mitsubishi oil is being used
and a pressure check shows up no fault

I rebuild these boxes so your box problem intrests me

KM175 Detailed
The KM175 (also known as the F4A22) is a 4 speed electronic automatic transaxle which was fitted to the TM Two versions of the KM175 were used in Magnas - the KM175-1 in TM (sometimes referred to as KM175).

The torque converter includes a damper clutch which causes the converter to lock at low vehicle speeds. The operation of the clutch is controlled by the Transaxle Control Unit. Gear selection is electronic and is controlled by solenoids which are activated by the Transaxle Control Unit. The TCU uses information from sensors which provide information on vehicle speed, throttle position, engine coolant temperature, gear lever position, engine speed, overdrive switch and kickdown drum speed.

more things to check

there is a temp sensor under the inlet manifold below the dissy . that can be faulty

a fault with the 3 electronic solenoids controlling the valve box oil flow in the box itself

the wire or pins at the connectors from the box to the main loom can corrode or break

the kickdown band solenoid may need adjustment

only other way to find the cause is an internal inspection of the box

Thanxs, i'll get it checked out this morning. Funny thing is im a mechanic but can't figure out the problems wiv my own car.:badgrin: