Rightyo, totally and utterly new to CAR audio, I go alright with a home theater system in front of me, but give me a car, and I've got no idea at all.

I'm building a system in my 96 TE as the threat title suggests and I've got some questions. Firstly, running cables to the boot for block/sub:
What do I need to remove to do this, and where do the cables run?

I've heard that the speakers in the door are 6"ers:
Have I heard right?, How do I remove the door trim to get to them?

Next, amps:
Is it a good idea to get a 4ch for Splits/6x9's and a Mono block for the sub alone (12" 1000W)?

Next, If I get a 4ch for the speakers, I'm assuming the amp will go in the boot, how do the cables get there?

Thank you guys so much, and sorry about the total n00b questions =]

EDIT: I've decided that i should have splits on the rear shelf instead of the 6x9's
1. What size/type should I get?
2. How will I mount them? I'd like to keep the stock grill look aswell..

What do I need to remove to do this, and where do the cables run?

pretty much need to run a power wire from the battery to your amp, there a rubber gorment when the clutch pedal normally is with two pipes coming through it, poke a hole a run your wire through there
as for the head unit there a thread with all the info you need about how to remove it and which wires are which
this thread here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52841


I've heard that the speakers in the door are 6"ers:
Have I heard right?, How do I remove the door trim to get to them?

the speakers in the doors are 6" yes, you need to remove the trim
there are 3 screws, one behind the handle (handle surround which also needs to be removed, to remove it just pull it towards the front on the car), one in the fingure grip thing behind a cover and one in the circle bit for the air vent, then just grab the bottom corner and pull towards yourself as the trim is clipped in


Is it a good idea to get a 4ch for Splits/6x9's and a Mono block for the sub alone (12" 1000W)?

it better to have a 4ch amp for the speakers instead of running off the h/u and a seperate monoblock for the sub


Next, If I get a 4ch for the speakers, I'm assuming the amp will go in the boot, how do the cables get there?

pretty much run the power wire down one side of the car (passenger) and the speaker wire, RCA's and remote wire down the drivers side, amps will go in the boot yes so make up some panels to show them off :), you need to remove the rear seat (bottom section) to get the wires into the boot


EDIT: I've decided that i should have splits on the rear shelf instead of the 6x9's
1. What size/type should I get?
2. How will I mount them? I'd like to keep the stock grill look aswell..

1. i would just get some 6 1/2" coaxial for the rear
2. should be able to make up some spacers so the sit under they stock grill

pretty much run the power wire down one side of the car (passenger) and the speaker wire, RCA's and remote wire down the drivers side

Ok, I get that, I'm going to need someone to give instructions though, because I don't even know where down the side of the car the wires go and how to get them there ^^

Thanks, and I'll go have a look at the thingo under the clutch soon just to check I know what you mean.

Ok, I get that, I'm going to need someone to give instructions though, because I don't even know where down the side of the car the wires go and how to get them there ^^

Thanks, and I'll go have a look at the thingo under the clutch soon just to check I know what you mean.

just rip off the kicker plates so you can lift up the carpet
then just put the wires under the carpet but run them close to the body
there should be like a trench or something under the carpet

Dude in the 3rd gens the best grommet is on the passenger side about half way done.

Try and run your power, remote turn on, earth, and speakers cables together, keep the RCA away from everything as much as possible. For the RCA's to the boot, down the passenger side is best. If you feel under your back seat you will find 2 pull tabs on either side, pull them and the base of your rear seat will come out.. make life so much easier :D

To run the wires down the side, lift up those plastic scuff plates in your doors. The front will more than likely be attached to a screw in the kick panel. This will let you lift up the carpet to run it there.

1000W sub?
1000W is not really an honest amount. when looking at speakers look at how many watts RMS it has. it's like trying to figure out how many kms a car has done judging by how worn the tyres are.
i could have a 1200W sub that is only 300w RMS.
specs on an amp...
2 x 1000 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
2 x 2000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
1 x 4000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
2 x 1650 Watts at 2 Ohms RMS

i suggest getting a sub that is around 300-350RMS @ 4ohms.
i find it to be more than enough power.

Some 300RMS subs/amps may sound louder and or better than others. See if you cant get the tech guru at JB HI-FI to show you the differences bettween subs/amps

i also live by ebay now, saved $160 last week on an amp, even though postage was $60+
http://stores.ebay.com.au/w-w-w-indoaudio-c-o-m

Run 4 gauge wire, so when you upgrade you wont have to buy new wires and rewire it all again.

if your ever unsure about anything, it's best to ask here first, wasting time and money sucks balls :)

1000W sub?
1000W is not really an honest amount. when looking at speakers look at how many watts RMS it has. it's like trying to figure out how many kms a car has done judging by how worn the tyres are.
i could have a 1200W sub that is only 300w RMS.
specs on an amp...
2 x 1000 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
2 x 2000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
1 x 4000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
2 x 1650 Watts at 2 Ohms RMS

i suggest getting a sub that is around 300-350RMS @ 4ohms.
i find it to be more than enough power.

Some 300RMS subs/amps may sound louder and or better than others. See if you cant get the tech guru at JB HI-FI to show you the differences bettween subs/amps

i also live by ebay now, saved $160 last week on an amp, even though postage was $60+
http://stores.ebay.com.au/w-w-w-indoaudio-c-o-m

Run 4 gauge wire, so when you upgrade you wont have to buy new wires and rewire it all again.

if your ever unsure about anything, it's best to ask here first, wasting time and money sucks balls :)
Sorry, I realised that after I wrote it, and I'm looking at 1200 Max now, can't remember what rms it was... but yeah, sorry thanks for reminding me tho.

EDIT: Sub-wise I'm looking at a 350wrms SoundStream @ 4ohms
Mono-block is JBL 450-ish wrms @ 4ohms, $399, can't remember price of sub at this time.
Does that sound alright?

Alright, just to get some opinions, here's what I'm looking at atm..

Splits
http://www.ryda.com.au/Blaupunkt-VPC172-6-360W-Split-System-p/vpc172.htm
$249.00

Coaxials
http://www.ryda.com.au/Blaupunkt-THX172-6-150W-Car-Speakers-p/thx172.htm
$119.00

4Ch Amp for Splits/Coaxials
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GTO754
$394.95

Sub
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PCW12SVC
$199.95

Sub Box
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SB12100
$44.95

Mono Block
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GTO6011
$399.95

Can I get opinions on:
a)Those prices
b)The gear
c)If I should get them shipped from that place (Sydney) or If I should print out a list and go down to JB/Autobarn/Wherever and see if they can get a price around that and if need be get them shipped in for me if they don't stock them (I'm in QLD)

Of course I'd audition all that gear first =]
Also, I would be more than happy to buy off eBay if I can find what I want within reasonable prices, just not sure about the quality of the postage.. How was the shipping for yours scott, no damage or anything to the amp you bought?

sorry the steal your thread. but with removing the car door trim do u have to remove the window winder? i tried to take it off this afternoon but failed :cry: it all seemed to be off except for one section in the middle around the window winder... is it the winder holding it on or what?

sorry the steal your thread. but with removing the car door trim do u have to remove the window winder? i tried to take it off this afternoon but failed :cry: it all seemed to be off except for one section in the middle around the window winder... is it the winder holding it on or what?
Heh, no problem, I needa know this too as I'll be taking mine off this weekend just to have a look around =]

yes the window winder has to be removed
repco sell the tool required to remove the clips
or you can try using flat head screwdrivers to push the clip apart

yes the window winder has to be removed
repco sell the tool required to remove the clips
or you can try using flat head screwdrivers to push the clip apart
Ahh sweet, and what would this tool happen to be called? =]

Splits
http://www.ryda.com.au/Blaupunkt-VPC172-6-360W-Split-System-p/vpc172.htm
$249.00

Spend a bit more money here on Boston S type / Hertz HSK 165 / Oz Audio V650S3 / Focal 165V1. Most expensive set there are the HSK which are $340.

Coaxials
http://www.ryda.com.au/Blaupunkt-THX172-6-150W-Car-Speakers-p/thx172.htm
$119.00

Look for a similar brand to what you choose above in a co-axial.

4Ch Amp for Splits/Coaxials
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GTO754
$394.95

This is where you save some money. The Jaycar 4x100WRMS amp will provide plently of power and xover tunabiliy for $299.

Sub
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PCW12SVC
$199.95

Sub Box
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SB12100
$199.95

Now for $400 that you sub plus box has cost, there are many different combos. A decent 16/18mm sealed enclosure should not cost more than $100. Better yet make it yourself. Subs to look at would be Hertz HX300 / Oz Audio Vector 12.3 / Focal 30A1 / Treo SSi / ID V12.3 which all vary between about $299 and $349.

Mono Block
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GTO6011
$399.95

Now depending on the sub, you can also get better value for money 2ch amps, which will bridge to a 4ohm load. Jaycar 2x 150WRMS will bridge to 1x 500WRMS, they are only $299. Or if you can extend the budget to $449, you can get the DD C2a which produces a solid 750WRMS x1.

Just some suggestions.... Most of the above are RRP as well. :D

Sub Box
http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SB12100
$199.95

Now for $400 that you sub plus box has cost, there are many different combos. A decent 16/18mm sealed enclosure should not cost more than $100. Better yet make it yourself. Subs to look at would be Hertz HX300 / Oz Audio Vector 12.3 / Focal 30A1 / Treo SSi / ID V12.3 which all vary between about $299 and $349.

WHOOPS!, the box is only $44.95, my bad! haha that was pretty stupid, I'll fix that up now and have a look at the splits/sub-amp again.

Why bother with 6" coaxials in the back? They're only for fill, and since you're not spending a lot of money on them, they won't sound that great - whether they're 6" or 6x9"s. If you're going to the trouble of replacing them, you may as well get a set of 6x9"s - they're easy enough to come across, they're available at basically every price point, and they're a bolt-in fit.


Also, I would be more than happy to buy off eBay if I can find what I want within reasonable prices

eBay is dodgy as **** for car audio. You should only buy off it if you are fully aware of all the risks involved.

The vast majority of car audio on eBay is overseas gear. This explains why postage is often $40-$60 - it's coming direct from Asia. You may not be getting an Australian model. The big dilemma with this is warranty. The Australian distributor will refuse to honour a warranty claim for a foreign item - it's in the terms of the warranty so there's no way around it. The only way to get it fixed is to send it back to the country of origin. If you did it yourself, it'd be hideously expensive and would take forever, plus there's no guarantee it'd work (why would you send a headunit from Australia to Asia?). Some sellers say that they'll take care of warranty for you, but I wouldn't believe it - you've already paid, you've already given them positive feedback, they're foreign-based so they can't be punished by any sort of fair trading commission, and technically your warranty exists whether they take care of it for you or not.

I personally would treat buying off eBay as buying without any sort of warranty. There have been a few reports of counterfeit items on eBay too. They look similar (sometimes identical) to the real deal, but are crap in comparison.

Yes, buying a product locally is more expensive, but it's the only way to guarantee you an authentic product with a genuine warranty.


Now for $400 that you sub plus box has cost, there are many different combos

If you click it, the sub box is actually only $50. I was going to say, you'd be stupid to buy an off-the-shelf sub box for $200 :P


Don't forget to factor in new wiring. At the minimum I would suggest 4 gauge wire from battery to a distribution box in the boot and 8 gauge into each amp. Also keep in mind your RCAs (x3), ground wire for each amp, wiring harness (beats soldering it yourself!) and new speaker wire (the stock wire runs back to the headunit which isn't very helpful). It's not hard to spend $100-$200 on a setup like this.

Yeah I though that was a bit much. For $200 probably the best sub ( and one of the hardest to kill ) is the DD 512. The other subs prices are as follows of course.

Have you factored in sound deadening etc?

When you say Boston S-Type, that would also mean S60, right? Because I had a look at them, and though they are dearer, they also only run at 55wrms.. I don't think this site I'm looking at has much of a range.. does anyone know of a site that's located in Australia with an online store/product list, preferably in QLD?

Wiring, I'll need some step-by-step on this, because I have noooo idea, No idea on a distribution box, Not much of an idea where I'd earth them either ^^... Turns out I don't have an idea on much at all haha...
Maybe a put-together list of all the wiring stuff I'll need would be a good thing, as I've said, total and utter newbie at car audio =]

Where are we talking about sound deadening for? The boot?.. Yeah I'm absolutely lost bahahaha, what can I do for that anyways?


Thanks for your great help guys =]

Yes you will learn about quality products. All of those splits will handle 100WRMS. Those Hertz have a rated.. yes rated power of 125WRMS... :shock:

Put that power through the ones you have a link for and bang! Yes the S60 are $349 on Ryda. You would be stupid to pay that much. Go to www.fhrxstudios.com if you want exact prices on everything. Take the RRP and take 10% and thats what he does for Aussiemagna members. For Hertz gear maroochy car sound does that gear.

Sound deadening can go on your doors / boot / floor. It helps stop panels from resinating causing vibrations. Also have many other positive points...

Yes you will learn about quality products. All of those splits will handle 100WRMS. Those Hertz have a rated.. yes rated power of 125WRMS... :shock:

Put that power through the ones you have a link for and bang! Yes the S60 are $349 on Ryda. You would be stupid to pay that much. Go to www.fhrxstudios.com if you want exact prices on everything. Take the RRP and take 10% and thats what he does for Aussiemagna members. For Hertz gear maroochy car sound does that gear.

Sound deadening can go on your doors / boot / floor. It helps stop panels from resinating causing vibrations. Also have many other positive points...

Ahh true, that's what I've been worried about! What type of stuff can you do to stop that, especially in the boot, I hate a rattly-sub sound :neutral:

Wiring, I'll need some step-by-step on this, because I have noooo idea

* Power wiring from battery to distribution box. There should be a fuse immediately after the wire leaves the battery. If you buy a wiring kit, a fuse should be included.
* Power wiring from distribution box to each amplifier (normally a size smaller than the wire going into the distro box).
* Power wiring to run from each amp to your ground.
* RCA Wire. You'll need three lots of this - one for your front speakers, one for rear speakers, and one for your sub. You haven't mentioned what headunit you have (and if you have, I've forgotten :P), but if you're going to this much effort with your system, I'd assume you have three RCA outs. Match the headunit output to the amplifier input - ie run the one wire from the front channel output to the front channel input.
* Remote wire. This tells the amplifier to turn on when the headunit does. Really cheap speaker wire will do the job - it only needs a small current so buy the thinnest/cheapest stuff you can. Alternatively, some RCAs will have it built in - you just have to connect the ends up. Don't forget that you'll need to run it to both amps.
* Speaker wiring. Since you're running your speakers off your amplifier, you'll need to run regular speaker wire from your speakers to the amplifiers. Doesn't have to be really expensive or flashy stuff, but IMO if you go to the trouble of replacing it all, you shouldn't be too stingy with it either.
* Headunit wiring. I mentioned this before, but I've realised you haven't mentioned changing your headunit, so this shouldn't be a problem.

Should be it... I think :P

Your ground wiring should be no smaller than your power wiring. 4 gauge wiring into a 8 gauge distro box is probably the minimum size to recommend. If you plan on upgrading to something later (mainly if you're addding extra amps or going competition-level), then it's probably worthwhile buying something really big to begin with, so you don't have to redo it later.


No idea on a distribution box

All it does is split the power wire into two. It's a cable splitter, basically. You'll need it as you have two amplifiers - each requiring power - and only one power wire running into the boot :) They're $20 or so from Autobarn.


Not much of an idea where I'd earth them either

There's a big bolt underneath the parcel shelf. I think baby capsules are supposed to attach to it. But it works as a decent earth. Also, if you pull away the trim on the back quarter panels, you'll see a random bolt sticking out. I've got one of my amps grounded to it. I've got the other amp grounded to one of my tailight bolts - the wire was short and I couldn't be bothered buying a new one lol Works fine though.


When you say Boston S-Type, that would also mean S60, right? Because I had a look at them, and though they are dearer, they also only run at 55wrms

Wattage isn't the end of the world, particularly for speakers :)

* Power wiring from battery to distribution box. There should be a fuse immediately after the wire leaves the battery. If you buy a wiring kit, a fuse should be included.
* Power wiring from distribution box to each amplifier (normally a size smaller than the wire going into the distro box).
* Power wiring to run from each amp to your ground.
* RCA Wire. You'll need three lots of this - one for your front speakers, one for rear speakers, and one for your sub. You haven't mentioned what headunit you have (and if you have, I've forgotten :P), but if you're going to this much effort with your system, I'd assume you have three RCA outs. Match the headunit output to the amplifier input - ie run the one wire from the front channel output to the front channel input.
* Remote wire. This tells the amplifier to turn on when the headunit does. Really cheap speaker wire will do the job - it only needs a small current so buy the thinnest/cheapest stuff you can. Alternatively, some RCAs will have it built in - you just have to connect the ends up. Don't forget that you'll need to run it to both amps.
* Speaker wiring. Since you're running your speakers off your amplifier, you'll need to run regular speaker wire from your speakers to the amplifiers. Doesn't have to be really expensive or flashy stuff, but IMO if you go to the trouble of replacing it all, you shouldn't be too stingy with it either.
* Headunit wiring. I mentioned this before, but I've realised you haven't mentioned changing your headunit, so this shouldn't be a problem.

Alright! That was very helpful =], and also yeah, with my headunit, I've got a JVC Unit in there atm.. I'll add it to my list to do on the weekend to check that it has 3 RCA Out, but I'm guessing it will, and while we're speaking about the JVC I've got a question, but I'll save it for another thread, I'll put a link here when I'm done aswell incase anyone's interested =]

Get and sub and box combo, many companies do the math to get their sub/boxes combos perfect, not only do they look better but they perform a shizload better.
and it works out good pricewise.

Kick FTW btw.

Get and sub and box combo, many companies do the math to get their sub/boxes combos perfect, not only do they look better but they perform a shizload better.
and it works out good pricewise.

Kick FTW btw.

Yeah, I'll save more looking for when I go out to Moss Street on the weekend, to get some realistic prices.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=829156#post829156
Link to my JVC Unit troubles thread =] feel free to have a look and try and help

Your head unit only has one line out, that is switchable between sub or rears.

Your head unit only has one line out, that is switchable between sub or rears.
Ha, looks like I'm going for a new HU aswell, it's probably a good idea though, the old JVC's gettin' a bit out-dated, I don't want anything too fancy, just somethin' with Auxiliary in and MP3/WMA playback and maybe Usb if price permits

Ha, looks like I'm going for a new HU aswell, it's probably a good idea though, the old JVC's gettin' a bit out-dated, I don't want anything too fancy, just somethin' with Auxiliary out and MP3/WMA playback and maybe Usb if price permits
Remember to be clear with "AUX Out" Your current unit has it, but only one set.
There's a new KD-G645 due out around March-ish, has two outputs and has USB and AUX In on the front of the unit. Will be around the $200 mark.

Remember to be clear with "AUX Out" Your current unit has it, but only one set.
There's a new KD-G645 due out around March-ish, has two outputs and has USB and AUX In on the front of the unit. Will be around the $200 mark.
I think the mass of stupid mistakes I'm making probably means I should go to bed.. I meant In haha.. Oooh March, my b'day and my "getting my p's" time :).
So.. JVC's a decent choice? Is two outputs enough? or would I be better getting 3 of em?

I think the mass of stupid mistakes I'm making probably means I should go to bed.. I meant In haha.. Oooh March, my b'day and my "getting my p's" time :).
So.. JVC's a decent choice? Is two outputs enough? or would I be better getting 3 of em?
Of course JVC is a great choice :P
Two outputs is all most people need, it really depends what kind of set up you're going to do.
For example, I have 1 output going to my front speakers and one going to my sub, i then have the rears running off the deck.
You want your sound to be coming from the front of your car, so that's where you want to put the priority of your sound, the rear speakers (if you choose to have any at all) should only be there as a "fill" so they don't over power the front, then of course your sub, which depending on your tastes can vary in strength and dynamics.

Of course JVC is a great choice :P
Two outputs is all most people need, it really depends what kind of set up you're going to do.
For example, I have 1 output going to my front speakers and one going to my sub, i then have the rears running off the deck.
You want your sound to be coming from the front of your car, so that's where you want to put the priority of your sound, the rear speakers (if you choose to have any at all) should only be there as a "fill" so they don't over power the front, then of course your sub, which depending on your tastes can vary in strength and dynamics.
So.. How would that work? One of the outputs goes to the rear, and.. one goes to the front AND sub?.. I don't get it.. or are there different outputs for the speakers coming straight off the unit?.. cheers.

So.. How would that work? One of the outputs goes to the rear, and.. one goes to the front AND sub?.. I don't get it.. or are there different outputs for the speakers coming straight off the unit?.. cheers.

Well there are different types of output, what most people talk about is RCA output, which are the red/white plugs on the back of the unit, but lets not forget about your normal outputs.
All headunits are able to run 4 speakers, two for the front, and two for the rear. As you move up in the range, you'll get extra RCA outputs.
RCA output allow you to plug in to an amp, and then in to your speaker, giving you more power.
My set up at the moment is about as follows

Front: Deck >RCA OUT> AMP > Speakers
Rear: Deck >> Speakers
Sub: Deck >RCA OUT> AMP > Woofer

Make sense?
That is a common set up, and is fine for 90% of people :P It's also pretty simple, something you can do yourself if you're willing to learn.

Well there are different types of output, what most people talk about is RCA output, which are the red/white plugs on the back of the unit, but lets not forget about your normal outputs.
All headunits are able to run 4 speakers, two for the front, and two for the rear. As you move up in the range, you'll get extra RCA outputs.
RCA output allow you to plug in to an amp, and then in to your speaker, giving you more power.
My set up at the moment is about as follows

Front: Deck >RCA OUT> AMP > Speakers
Rear: Deck >> Speakers
Sub: Deck >RCA OUT> AMP > Woofer

Make sense?
That is a common set up, and is fine for 90% of people :P It's also pretty simple, something you can do yourself if you're willing to learn.
Ahh, true, too easy, yeah that'll be fine for me, Thanks for that =] I'll go have a look at head units this weekend at JB and Autobarn and I'll keep that JVC one in mind.

Oh yeah just a note. Current RRP for the splits and match co-axials are as follows:
Boston Acoustics S60 $249 6.5inch comp
Boston Acoustics S65 $139 6.5inch 2 way
Boston Acoustics S95.3 $199 6.9inch 3 way

Boston Acoustics SX60 $349 6.5inch comp
Boston Acoustics SX65 $249 6inch 2 way
Boston Acoustics SX95 $349 6x9inch 2 way

Oh yeah just a note. Current RRP for the splits and match co-axials are as follows:
Boston Acoustics S60 $249 6.5inch comp
Boston Acoustics S65 $139 6.5inch 2 way
Boston Acoustics S95.3 $199 6.9inch 3 way

Boston Acoustics SX60 $349 6.5inch comp
Boston Acoustics SX65 $249 6inch 2 way
Boston Acoustics SX95 $349 6x9inch 2 way

If I go with Boston's I'll probably go for the SX60 and 65..
Just asking.. what's the difference between 2 way and 3 way?
Are 3 way high, med, low and 2 way is high and med?

No 2 way use a woofer and a tweeter where 3 way add in another speaker to boost the mid range ( common problem with 6x9's unless you pay the $$ ).

No 2 way use a woofer and a tweeter where 3 way add in another speaker to boost the mid range ( common problem with 6x9's unless you pay the $$ ).

Eh, two way'll do me fine

Yeah 2 way is more than fine for these systems. Just remember that the rears in your car are 6x9's. You can make a 6mm mdf space and fit the 6.5inch speaker in it if you want.

Dnt get splits for the back... i got 6x9's alpine type s runnin in the back, so much bass with them, there not amped atm,,, an then i got splits in the front, i put the tweet into my door, used a 12ml hole saw an drilled slowly thru, looks wicked an stock

if he going to be running a sub he wont exactly need 6x9's for bass i have DLS iridium 2 ways in the front with the tweeters mounted on the sails on the door, rear fill i have nothing atm but will have another set of 6.5's in there after rego time, these with alpine F345 4channel amp and type R 12inch with a MRD 605 running it. Sounds very nice with plenty of bass on tap yet still easy to listen to when hungover ;P

Dnt get splits for the back... i got 6x9's alpine type s runnin in the back, so much bass with them, there not amped atm,,, an then i got splits in the front, i put the tweet into my door, used a 12ml hole saw an drilled slowly thru, looks wicked an stock

Dude he wasn't thinking about splits for the back?!?

Boston Acoustic S65 are 6.5inch 2way co-axials... hence the 2way after them, and hence why the S60's have "comp" next to them short for component i.e. splits.

If he chooses to get the boston splits, he is best to mount them in the kick as they are quite bright. Perfect for dance and rock etc. :D

if he going to be running a sub he wont exactly need 6x9's for bass i have DLS iridium 2 ways in the front with the tweeters mounted on the sails on the door, rear fill i have nothing atm but will have another set of 6.5's in there after rego time, these with alpine F345 4channel amp and type R 12inch with a MRD 605 running it. Sounds very nice with plenty of bass on tap yet still easy to listen to when hungover ;P

im installing splits this weekend. if the rain stops. and i like the look of the tweeters in the door sails but pulled em off and it doesnt look like a tweeter will fit in there. how did u manage to get em in? did u make a spacer of sumfin?

im installing splits this weekend. if the rain stops. and i like the look of the tweeters in the door sails but pulled em off and it doesnt look like a tweeter will fit in there. how did u manage to get em in? did u make a spacer of sumfin?

Dude any decent set of splits will come with 45deg or flush tweeter holders. You can easily use those to secure them where you like.

Depending on the splits you may be best to experiment with them high in the kick panels near your accelerator and glove box. Those DLS splits have a rather large smooth soft dome tweeter so mounting up there will not reveal any harshness.

the splits i got are alpine type R's. i think i no what u mean. the tweeters have a thread on them then these like a plastic ring that screws on that so just cut the hole and pop it through and secure the ring. but it would stick out a cm or so. i think ill condider the kick pannels and what not.

the splits i got are alpine type R's. i think i no what u mean. the tweeters have a thread on them then these like a plastic ring that screws on that so just cut the hole and pop it through and secure the ring. but it would stick out a cm or so. i think ill condider the kick pannels and what not.

Yeah those plastic things. Best thing to do is hook them up and get some blu tak. Put them in the sails ( turn the xover to the lowest setting ( -3db / -4db etc ) and see how you like them. Then put the xover back to 0 and mount them high in the kicks and see how you like them. Its all about playing around. Alpines generally have a soft tweeter, no where near as good as the DLS ( not the price either ) so either option should work for you.

In the Magna I had mine in the kicks out of sight ( thats how high they where in the kicks ) for better channel separation. The idea is to get the distance from each to your head about the same. Staging didn't suffer as much as you would think either.

okay thanks for the advise. i try it out on saturday and see what sound better.
if this bloody rain stops :rant:

okay thanks for the advise. i try it out on saturday and see what sound better.
if this bloody rain stops :rant:

Yeah dude apparently it is sticking around for a while. You may have to wait for a break in the torrential rain :bowrofl:

yeah... im sick of it. every time i try to do sumfin to my car it rains... when i installed my subs it rained.. when i set up the amp for the splits last week it rained and now it raining again.... :doubt:

yeah... im sick of it. every time i try to do sumfin to my car it rains... when i installed my subs it rained.. when i set up the amp for the splits last week it rained and now it raining again.... :doubt:

lol wait till you wash your car and it rains a few hours later now thats annoying :P

Yeah well I had my VW for 18months and detailed it from front to back. Took for ever. 2 days later we had a mini hurricane. This was the July long weekend on the Central Coast / Sydney. I haven't done it since.... Luckily it didn't get damaged.

What's this mounting in the kicks business?.. I don't know what a kick is :P, and are we talking about the splits, or the tweeters?

were talking bout the tweeters. and the kicks are the panels above your feet when sitting in the car... just options of were to mount the tweeters...

Ahh true, thanks, I just got back and there was like a whole extra page of posts on my thread and I was like WOAH haha just a little confused

Yeah well I had my VW for 18months and detailed it from front to back. Took for ever. 2 days later we had a mini hurricane. This was the July long weekend on the Central Coast / Sydney. I haven't done it since.... Luckily it didn't get damaged.

yes i remember that weekend haha was pretty insane driving on the highway at 40k's and hour with the whole magna crab crawling the 30 odd k's to work on the friday, not to mention the amount of car wrecks out the front of the store from people hitting the 4ft of water that comes up out the front of the driveway

Ive pretty much pulled my TJ apart for all sorts of audio things, Deading on the floor, false floor (pretty crap, needs to be fixed). Fibreglassed door baffles, and my favourite, fibreglassed A pannels for Tweeters.

Feel free to PM me for any info, advice, tips, pics etc.

You wouldnt happen to be in Sydney would you ? If you were, I would always be willing to lend a hand or two.

No, sorry I'm in QLD.
I noticed Mr ©harisma said something before about fhrx studios giving 10% discount to AMC members..
Where is Fhrx located and how do you go about this discount? Just tell them that you're an AMC member and they'll just give it to you?
Cheers

No, sorry I'm in QLD.
I noticed Mr ©harisma said something before about fhrx studios giving 10% discount to AMC members..
Where is Fhrx located and how do you go about this discount? Just tell them that you're an AMC member and they'll just give it to you?
Cheers

Eh.. I just found it.. bloody NSW haha.. does anyone know of a decent place at Moss Street or somewhere else on the south-side with a decent range and people that know their stuff?

Ive pretty much pulled my TJ apart for all sorts of audio things, Deading on the floor, false floor (pretty crap, needs to be fixed). Fibreglassed door baffles, and my favourite, fibreglassed A pannels for Tweeters.

Feel free to PM me for any info, advice, tips, pics etc.

You wouldnt happen to be in Sydney would you ? If you were, I would always be willing to lend a hand or two.

wouldnt mind some pics of the fibreglassed A pannels. cheers

dont forget to check out the for sale section, save you lots o money

Ive pretty much pulled my TJ apart for all sorts of audio things, Deading on the floor, false floor (pretty crap, needs to be fixed). Fibreglassed door baffles, and my favourite, fibreglassed A pannels for Tweeters.

Feel free to PM me for any info, advice, tips, pics etc.

You wouldnt happen to be in Sydney would you ? If you were, I would always be willing to lend a hand or two.


anychance you could post pics in a new thread or something? sounds interesting