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GoTRICE
07-02-2008, 10:07 AM
Welcome.

This will be the thread that contains all the simple and not so simple fixes or mods we all once didnt know how to do. It will contain no spam. Not no spam like in the "post your ride" thread but no spam. All of this information will be targeted to the 2nd gen magna/verada models, which varied as such:

Chassis: Sedan or Wagon.

Engine: 2.6l Astron II SOHC 4cyl carburetted or ECI (Fuel Injected) or 3.0l V6 SOHC 12V MPI.

Transmission: 5 speed manual or 4 speed automatic electronically controlled.

Verada: The verada was introduced as a high luxury level car. The letter K is used in place of T for the model designation, e.g. TR Magna is KR Verada.

TR KR (Introduced November 1991);
Luxury levels; Magna GLX,Magna Executive, SE (Special Edition) and Elite.
Verada Ei and Xi

TS KS (Introduced March 1994);
Luxury levels; , Executive, SE (Special Edition), Advance, Si (sports), Safari wagon.
Verada Ei and Xi


To make this happen it is hoped members will post links and information which they have used or written to help complete said fixes or mods. At this stage the format for this thread will be:

TOPIC:
MODELS APPLICABLE:
DIFFICULTY:
TOOLS NEEDED:
ITEMS NEEDED:
EXTRA INFORMATION:
LINKS:

The extra information could be a how to in itself with links adding the extra information. Also i think we should keep it to one topic per post for ease of viewing.

Cheers

Aj.

PS i will be re-editing this post multiple times no doubt and please add your suggestions into >this< (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56290) thread.

GoTRICE
07-02-2008, 10:37 AM
TOPIC:Cleaning You Throttle Body.
MODELS APPLICABLE:All 2nd Gens.
DIFFICULTY:1/5
TOOLS NEEDED:
Socket set.
Phillips head screw-driver.
ITEMS NEEDED:
Throttle body gasket.
2 rubber O rings for the ISC (idle speed control) and one for the ISC screw.
Vaseline/Rubber grease.
Carburetter cleaner.
Small paintbrush

EXTRA INFORMATION:
Heres an example. Thanks Madmagna
LINKS: >Here< (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31580&highlight=guide)

TR 300000
07-02-2008, 11:12 AM
TOPIC: Auto to Manual Conversion (V6)
MODELS APPLICABLE: All V6 2nd gens (Magna and Verada)
DIFFICULTY: 4/5
TOOLS NEEDED: Standard stuff plus engine hoist and axle stands
ITEMS NEEDED: Replacement gearbox, pedal box, clutch assembly and more
EXTRA INFORMATION:
LINKS: Deanimus' first rate conversion thread with plenty of pics (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54917)

GoTRICE
15-02-2008, 03:43 PM
TOPIC: Fitting an analogue clock
MODELS APPLICABLE: Any 2nd gen without one
DIFFICULTY: 1/5
TOOLS NEEDED:
Flat head screwdriver
Extra electrical wiring
Soldering iron
Solder
Heat shrink
ITEMS NEEDED:
Clock from an upper model variant including connector with some wiring to join to.
EXTRA INFORMATION:
Plenty of questions answered in the thread
LINKS:
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30556

Lucifer
15-02-2008, 03:51 PM
TOPIC: KS Verada Twin Pot Brake Upgrade
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS / KR 4cyl and 6cyl
DIFFICULTY: Medium
TOOLS NEEDED: Ring spanners, screwdrivers, g clamp, wire brush
ITEMS NEEDED: Brake fluid, degreaser
EXTRA INFORMATION: Brake upgrade for your gen2 by Madmagna, Photos by Lucifer
LINKS: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49712

Hitman20
17-06-2008, 01:51 PM
TOPIC: Fitting an analogue or digital clock
MODELS APPLICABLE: Any 2nd gen without one
DIFFICULTY: 1/5
TOOLS NEEDED:
Flat head screwdriver
Extra electrical wiring
Soldering iron
Solder
Heat shrink
ITEMS NEEDED:
Clock from an upper model variant including connector with some wiring to join to.
EXTRA INFORMATION:
Plenty of questions answered in the thread
LINKS:
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30556

Bit of a dead thread here, but im posting for those who search it. Just so u know, the wiring for a digital clock is different to the analogue, once i work out how i will post up a walkthrough, anybody wanna contribute?

RoGuE_StreaK
17-06-2008, 05:31 PM
TOPIC: Retrofitting power windows.
MODELS APPLICABLE: All 2nd Gens without power windows.
DIFFICULTY: 2.5/5
TOOLS NEEDED:
Screwdrivers of various sizes.
Socket set.
Spanners, mainly 10mm, 12mm.
Wire cutters.
Soldering iron (not necessary, but recommended)
ITEMS NEEDED:
Power window regulators.
Power window switches, complete door skins, plus metal support for armrest.
As much of the power window loom as you can obtain.
Electrical tape.
Wire tap.
Several metres of heavy-duty wire (figure-8 works well and is cheaper).
Rag to clean with, and to protect glass.

EXTRA INFORMATION:
Front windows done only, rears are very similar to install as front passenger's, involving three wires each.
LINKS: >Thread< (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50589&page=3)

Hitman20
17-06-2008, 08:26 PM
fixed

It wouldn't be dead if someone would sticky it.

Such topics come up periodically it's not going to stay on the first page by popularity.

Then other people would start adding to it...

Lol... after much wiring crossing and multimetering i have solved the issue, the only way u need to change it is by wiring to the Cig lighter instead of the cig lighter light. Keep that in mind!

MadMax
09-03-2009, 07:56 AM
TOPIC: Clutch replacement.

MODELS APPLICABLE: 2.6L manual gen 2.

DIFFICULTY: Very high on the time and frustration scale.
Spare car, no hurry, took 3 months of weekend work.

TOOLS NEEDED: half inch drive torque wrench reading up to 210 Nm or higher.
sockets and spanners - 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 24, 32.
Flexible half inch drive extension.
pdf or Gregory's/Haynes manual for torque wrench settings. Make a list of all the settings you need.

ITEMS NEEDED: Clutch kit, mine was off eBay @ $150 approx.
VMX80 gearbox oil.
Rubber boot kits for driveshafts and steering rack boots as needed.
Water pump and hoses as needed.
Fuel filter as needed.
Ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends as needed.
Axle stands, engine crane.
Split pins.
Grease suitable for drive shaft joints.

EXTRA INFORMATION: PROCEDURE!
(1) Remove hubcaps, loosen wheel nuts, remove split pins, loosen axle nuts.
(2) Lift car onto axle stands. On bodywork, not front suspension.
(3) Remove wheels, axle nuts and washers. Note orientation of washer.
(4) Drain coolant from underneath. Drain gearbox oil.
Disconnect and remove battery.
(5) Unplug MAF, remove MAF and hose, remove air cleaner, remove ducting from bodywork.
(6) Remove callipers. Hang by wire from suspension unit.
Remove 2 bolts connecting steering knuckle to suspension. Support steering knuckle. (car jack, bricks)
(7) Loosen larger of the 2 metal bands on the inner drive shaft boots.
(8) Remove the two subframe members under the engine and gearbox.
(9) Pull on the upper end of the steering knuckle - this will pull the inner joint of the drive shaft out of the housing. Manouvre this up then push the shaft out of the hub. Remove the shaft from the car and put in a safe place -boot - on a rag.
(10) Reach up under the car at the back of the engine and undo the 2 bolts that hold the bearing carrier for the intermediate shaft.
Remove the intermediate shaft.
(11) The EFI model has an intake manifold support bracket that gets in the way of the starter motor when you try to remove it. Use the flexible extension and undo one of the bolts at the top of the support bracket. Swing it out of the way. Needs a bit of a push.
(12) Unplug the wires for the oil pressure switch, oxygen sensor, reverse switch. Unbolt the gearbox bolt with the earthing strap under it. Lift the harness out of the way.
(13) Remove cover, hoses, water pump if you are replacing it.
(14) Remove the side plastic cover at the drivers side. Remove the reverse switch as it easily damaged if left in place.
(15) Unbolt the gearshift cables, tie out of the way.
(16) Unbolt hydraulic line from slave cylinder. A small valve and spring will drop out. Catch it!
(17) Unbolt slave cylinder. Clean it, inspect rubber, store in safe place - order kit if the rubber cup is suspect.
(18) Unbolt hydraulic line from gearbox.
(19) Pull 4 rubber grommets from inside wheelwell. Remove 4 bolts. Unbolt centre of mount, remove 3 bolts holding mount to gearbox. Use penetrating oil and go slow. Mine pulled a lot of alloy out of the threads and the bolts were a pain to clean up.
(20) Support gearbox with rope tied to the engine crane.
(21) Remove 10 mm bolts from bottom cover and side of sandwich plate.
(22) Remove bolts holding the gearbox on. This includes the starter motor, which can be pushed back and left there - no need to disconnect cables.
There is one bolt at the back of the gearbox that goes in the opposite direction - located near the oil seal on the passenger side of the gearbox.
(23) Move the gearbox back, off the clutch plate and lower it to the ground.
(24) Remove clutch from flywheel. Inspect flywheel - if it is scored it will need to come off the be machined. Mine was ok.
(25) Bolt the new new clutch in. First check that the plate slides freely on the gearbox shaft.
Put a piece of dowel or rod on the centre of the plate to keep it centred. Tighten the bolts evenly and do up with the torque wrench.
Visually check that the centre of the plate is centred in the flywheel.
(26) The gearbox:
Wash the dust out!
Remove rubber boot.
Pull the clip off the thrust bearing. Throw them away. A new thrust bearing/clip should have come with the clutch kit.
Pull the release lever out, and clean the ball and socket. Clean the thrust bearing carrier. Grease the ball and socket.
THIS BIT IS IMPORTANT:
There will be a lot of wear on the ball and socket - just putting it all back together will NOT give you a working clutch! I had to redo this bit!
Spacers are needed to compensate for wear on the ball and socket - the sheet that came with my clutch kit said use a 2 mm spacer, I ended up using 2!!
The "spacers" are any washer that fits under the ball - unbolt it - a washer that size just happens to be 2 mm thick.
HOW TO CHECK: put some grease on the throwout bearing guide, assemble the new thrust bearing, put the lever back on, put in the clip. With the thrust bearing pushed all the way back to the gearbox, the lever should just hit, or be very close to the edge of the window in the side of the gearbox. Add a second washer under the ball if it is nowhere near it. Make sure the ball is tight. This way, the lever sits right in the middle of the window with everything reassembled and the clutch pedal up.

(27) Grease the spines on the input shaft.
(28) Hoist the box back up and reinsert - line it up carefully and only use hand pressure to reengage it.
(29) Put in 2 of the top bolts.
(30) Now is a good time to check other things - ball joints, tie rod joints, steering rack boots.
Perished ball joint boots can be replaced with aftermarket ones - a Holden replacement boot is a good fit. Driveshaft boots and steering rack boots are cheap, as long as you buy after market ones.
(31) Reassembly is the revers of the above.
Don't forget to refill the gearbox, bleed the hydraulics, tension the pump belt, retorque wheel nuts (90-110 Nm), and drive shaft nuts (200 - 260 Nm) etc.

Total cost: $900 at dealer (approx), $200 DIY, plus invaluable learning experience.

LINKS: None

86_Elite
09-03-2009, 08:25 AM
TOPIC: Clutch replacement.

MODELS APPLICABLE: 2.6L manual gen 2.

DIFFICULTY: Very high on the time and frustration scale.

TOOLS NEEDED: half inch drive torque wrench reading up to 210 Nm or higher.
sockets and spanners - 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 24, 32.
Flexible half inch drive extension.
pdf or Gregory's/Haynes manual for torque wrench settings.

ITEMS NEEDED: Clutch kit, mine was off eBay @ $150 approx.
VMX80 gearbox oil.
Rubber boot kits for driveshafts and steering rack boots as needed.
Water pump and hoses as needed.
Ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends as needed.
Axle stands, engine crane.
Split pins.
Grease suitable for drive shaft joints.

EXTRA INFORMATION: PROCEDURE!
(1) Remove hubcaps, loosen wheel nuts, remove split pins, loosen axle nuts.
(2) Lift car onto axle stands. On bodywork, not front suspension.
(3) Remove wheels, axle nuts and washers. Note orientation of washer.
(4) Drain coolant from underneath. Drain gearbox oil.
Disconnect and remove battery.
(5) Unplug MAF, remove MAF and hose, remove air cleaner, remove ducting from bodywork.
(6) Remove callipers. Hang by wire from suspension unit.
Remove 2 bolts connecting steering knuckle to suspension. Support steering knuckle. (car jack, bricks)
(7) Loosen larger of the 2 metal bands on the inner drive shaft boots.
(8) Remove the two subframe members under the engine and gearbox.
(9) Pull on the upper end of the steering knuckle - this will pull the inner joint of the drive shaft out of the housing. Manouvre this up then push the shaft out of the hub. Remove the shaft from the car and put in a safe place -boot - on a rag.
(10) Reach up under the car at the back of the engine and undo the 2 bolts that hold the bearing carrier for the intermediate shaft.
Remove the intermediate shaft.
(11) The EFI model has an intake manifold support bracket that gets in the way of the starter motor when you try to remove it. Use the flexible extension and undo one of the bolts at the top of the support bracket. Swing it out of the way.
(12)

LINKS: None

I have done this a few times and I agree on the pure frustration side of things. Much easier to do this in the garage, although I have done this on the front lawn on bricks... never again though.

Just as a side note to this, I found that taking the shafts off from the hubs is easiest because your shafts just pull out from the gearbox for those who didn't know, and dont have any re-taining pins unlike some cars.

Cheers,

Ben

Deanimus
28-05-2009, 08:07 PM
votes to make this thread a sticky...

magna buff
01-02-2010, 01:27 PM
TOPIC: DIYS
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS / KR 6cyl
DIFFICULTY: medium to hard
TOOLS NEEDED: sockets spanners
ITEMS NEEDED: timing belt sealant
EXTRA INFORMATION: the V6 timing marks for the timing belt

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/tr_ts_v6_timing_169.jpg (http://s253.photobucket.com/user/magnabuff/media/tr_ts_v6_timing_169.jpg.html)

change at 100,000 after that km no guarentee of belt life

Timing Belt Replacement - Mitsubishi 3.0 V6:



disconnect Battery
Drain radiator

Setting the valve timing. on the balancer to line up with the TDC (top dead centre)
Next step is to remove the two top timing belt covers. Little half moon looking things secured by two 10mm bolts.

Before removing the Timing belt
Mark the cams and the belts with paint one tooth to both cams and one mark on the belt at that same spots to the cams mark (I use nail polish)

the tooth count between the two top cams is 22 teeth of the belt timing dot to dot

support engine under neath and remove passenger side engine mount

this mount has two parts
both have to be removed
the lower bit
two 14 mm bolts on the airconditoning bracket
three 14mm on the engine bracket

the upper bit
two 14 mm nuts and one 17mm nut
and three 14 mm bolts

Remove the A/C and power steering belts.

The A/C belt loosen the 17mm nut on the tensioner a couple of turns and then wind the 13mm headed bolt down until the belt is loose enough to

Remove. The power steering pump completly There are two holes in the pulley and these have to rotated into a position where you can get a 14mm socket onto the two bolts holding it in place.
and move the hoses out of the way also .......some fluid will be lost

undo and take off main belt tensioner pulley and idler pulley on it.
This to gain access to the timing belt cover.

The A/C compressor pump stays on

The next step is to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt,
remove the starter jam the teeth of the flywheel then undo the harmonic balancer nut


the timing pully is on a keyway and will rock off or slide of easily

undo the idler timing belt pully nut and the spring will come off easily

there is a cast iorn bracket the timing belt runs through this has to be undone (3 bolts)
do not move or turn the crankshaft or cams once you remove the timing belt

Remove the timing belt.

magna buff
01-02-2010, 01:32 PM
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS / KR 6cyl
DIFFICULTY: medium
TOOLS NEEDED: sockets spanners screwdrivers
ITEMS NEEDED: water pump , sealant
EXTRA INFORMATION: the V6 timing marks for the timing belt

usually done with the timing belt

Water pump Replacement - Mitsubishi 3.0 V6:

Replacing the waterpump
Warning
There is one counter sunk screw holding the backing plate to the outer water pump internally so if you are replacing only he half the whole water pump has to be removed or the backing plate will crack

a new counter sunk screw does not come with the half water pump kit

Remove all the bolts holding the water pump five 12 mm
lever the whole pump of from behind the water pump body
to release the hold of the O ring
use a sealant on the oring and gasket supplied
some force is required to refit the new pump over the pipe with the O ring on it so it sits cose to the block
make sure all the bolts are started by hand before tightening

Do not over-tighten bolts. 10 and 12mm bolts torque approx 10 nm (they like to strip)

fill radiator with water to check for water leaks

refit the timing belt tensioner and feed belt to correct position

fit the timing belt refering to the old belt and its marking to be sure the engine and cams have not moved

if not the same ...... correct before fitting the new belt

turn the motor two times and recheck the timing

Refit the cast iorn bracket the timing belt runs through (3 bolts)

refit all the plastic timing covers

The harmonic balancer bolt must be tightened to a torque of 127Nm or 95ft/lb.

The metal disc must be installed between the crankshaft gear and the harmonic balancer as it stops the belt from running off the pulleys. If you are not sure which way it came off look for the crankshaft gear marks

magna buff
01-02-2010, 01:34 PM
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS
DIFFICULTY: easy
TOOLS NEEDED: sockets spanners screwdrivers
ITEMS NEEDED: sump gasket , sealant
EXTRA INFORMATION:

sump removal 4 cyl TR/TS

drain oil 24 mm nut

you undo the passengerside support brace running backwards on that side

two bolts on the front 4 on the back

then you undo all the sump nuts 10 mm socket or screwdriver socket bit comes in handy

the sump if stuck tap with a rubber mallet

clean surface off block and sump

fit gasket mitsi genuine approx $20 apply sealant

carefully ensure every screw is through each hole of the gasket then tighten all

magna buff
01-02-2010, 01:36 PM
Engine mounts to remove V6 TR/TS
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS
DIFFICULTY: medium
TOOLS NEEDED: sockets spanners screwdrivers
ITEMS NEEDED: jack and car stands
EXTRA INFORMATION:

Front
support engine
undo 3 x 14 mm bolts to chassis
then through bolt
jack motor for clearence
roll mount outwards and sideways refit new mount

Rear
undo 4 x14 mm bolts to chassis (long extensions socket and rachet)
undo through bolt
undo small shock through bolt (check it is not broken )
jack motor for clearence
refit

Passenger side
support motor
undo 2x14 nuts
undo through bolt
undo 3 x17 mm nuts
lift motor to hold weight
remove mount
refit

Drivers side

remove d/side tyre
support gearbox
remove the 4 grommets on the chassis
undo 4x14 mm bolts
undo mounts through bolt
or bolts off the gearbox
lift gearbox for clearence
refit

magna buff
01-02-2010, 01:40 PM
to remove V6 gearbox TR/TS
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS verada
DIFFICULTY: medium
TOOLS NEEDED: sockets spanners screwdrivers
ITEMS NEEDED: jack and car stands
EXTRA INFORMATION:
Manual gearbox removal from under neath V6 model

support chassis on car stands
undo battery terminals
undo air filter and snorkle up to the throttle body
undo reverse light plug
drain gearbox oil
undo outer cv nut
undo cv boots at the gearbox leave the spline attached to the gearbox

all you have to do is replace the boot straps

undo two 17 mm bolts at the base of the front struts 17 MM
undo tie rod end 17 or 19mm
remove both drive shafts and intrim half shaft (2 x14 mm bolts )
remove gear cables split pins and the U clamps holding the shift cables (pliers)
undo starter motor
undo speedo cable
remove the drivers side chassis rail support so the box can come out
undo the gearbox all the bolts 17 mm off the engine in the engine bay
undo 17 mm head bolt through the front engine mount bracket
undo gearbox mount bolts onto the gear box
undo 4 x 14 mm bolts in drivers side wheel arch (ususally cover by 4 rubber gromets)
remove gearbox mount
undo clutch master cylinder at the connection closest to the battery (10 mm brake line spanner )
undo slave master bolts
leaver box away from the engine block

lower box out

Instalation in reverse turn motor slightly to align the clutch input shaft to flywheel till it mates up

Automatic removal
is similar you have to undo the drve plate under neath through the metal inspection plate
at the end of the sump and edge of the auto box

make up a metal strap to bolt the torque converter to the gearbox outer housing before total removal

dont let the torque convert drop off the tranny .or oil every where
if it drops off you have to realign the pump to the converter
if you dont line both up properly up and refit in ..you crack the pump

make up a metal strap to bolt the tranny to the gearbox outer housing before total removal

The F4A33 is a four-speed electronic automatic transaxle built by Mitsubishi and used in TR Magna/Veradas.

The F4A33 has more clutch plates (4 front, 5 rear and 4 end ), has a four-bolt torque convertor with a stall speed of 1800 - 2800 rpm. It also came in eight different variants:

F4A33-1-MPN1: 25 teeth splined driveshafts, used in 4 cylinder models
F4A33-1-MPP1/2: 27 teeth splined driveshafts, used in 4 cylinder models
F4A33-1-MPQ2: 27 teeth splined drive shafts, special transaxle control unit, used in 4 cylinder models
F4A33-1-MMN6: 25 teeth splined driveshafts, used in V6 models
F4A33-1-MNP6/9: 27 teeth splined driveshafts, used in V6 models
F4A33-1-MNQ3: 27 teeth splined driveshafts, special transaxle control unit, used in V6 models.

Manaual Gearboxes
The F5M33 (also known as KM215) is a 5 speed manual transaxle built by Mitsubishi and used in the V6 TR which was introduced in Australia in 1993, when the 12 valve V6 became an option on the TR Magna, Mitsubishi had rectified the syncro problems in its transmissions.

The Magna came with two versions of the F5M33, one which required a 27 tooth splined driveshaft (marked F5M33-2-SNZJ) and the other (marked F5M33-2-SNQJ) which could be used with either a 25 teeth splined driveshafts.

The F5M33 came with revised gear ratios and a twin cone syncroniser assembly on second gear. As the contact area of the syncroniser was increased, the syncroniser assembly was more efficient and reliable.

The clutch plate was also different for the F5M33, with the outside diameter remaining at 225mm, but the inside diameter became 150mm (down 5). The starter motor was also repositioned for the V6 engine

magna buff
01-02-2010, 01:46 PM
to remove V6 alternator
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS verada
DIFFICULTY: anoying
TOOLS NEEDED: sockets spanners screwdrivers
ITEMS NEEDED: jack and car stands
EXTRA INFORMATION:



put in the worst place

located at the passengerside rear fire wall attached to the motor
above the cv joint

disconnect battery
undo belt adjuster
undo coil and inlet manifold mounting bracket
undo nut on the side of the tensioner wheel 14 mm
undo tensioner bolt 14 mm
undo passenger wheel with the left hand through the tyre well
you can reach the wire to the 12 mm nut of the alternator
unplug the regulator connection
undo lower bolt and nut
withdraw alternator upwards between motor and fire wall

magna buff
01-02-2010, 01:49 PM
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS verada
DIFFICULTY: easy
TOOLS NEEDED: led tester
ITEMS NEEDED:
EXTRA INFORMATION:
What the the engine symbol light indicates when it comes on

1. Engine control unit
* 2. Oxygen sensor
3. Air-flow sensor
4. Intake air temperature sensor
5. Throttle position sensor
6. Engine coolant temperature sensor
7. Crank angle sensor
8. Top dead centre sensor
9. Knock sensor
10. Ignition timing adjustment signal
11. Injector
Caution: - The engine warning lamp also comes on when the terminal for ignition timing adjustment is
earthed during ignition timing adjustment.
*Note - The 0' sensor on 4 cylinder models built after February 1992 does not activate the engine
warning lamp

extra info
testing with the led tester for the 4 cylinder
page 112 on a gregories for the 4 cyl

11 ox sensor
12 air flow
13 air intake temp
14 TPS
21 collant temp
22 crank angle
23 TDC sensor
24 vehicle speed
25 atmospheric pressure
31 knock
36 ignition timing
41 fuel injectors

looking at the diagnostic plug
bottom right is number one thats the positve
top left is number 12 that is negative

to clear codes at end of repairs disconnect battery terminals for 20 seconds

so the gregories says

Sparky
03-06-2010, 03:04 PM
TOPIC: Fitting a digital clock to a second gen

Digital clock are different to analogue clock, they have a different needs.



MODELS APPLICABLE:All 2nd Gens.

DIFFICULTY:1/5

TOOLS NEEDED:

Soldering iron
Flat blade screw driver
Pilars

ITEMS NEEDED:

Digital clock see below
Extra wire
Tape

EXTRA INFORMATION:


;1240698']Only ones here which got a Digital clock were the KS verada touring wagons and there are approx only 400 of them made. none were put in USDM cars, you will only find them in JDM and NZDM spec Diamante's and sigma's

Fitting a clock thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30556)

PROCEDURE:

To remove a clock from the car simple place a flat blade screw driver, and lever up.
The the way to make a digital clocks work is as follow:

C is the battery power
D is the ignition power
L is the parker or lights
E is the ground

Then all you do is run four wires down to your radio there you will find every wire need for this mod.
Battery is the red wire will go to the C
Ignition is the blue wire will go to the D
Light was taken from the cigarette lighter but can be taken from the green white wire which was in the radio harness
Ground was taken from the car earth

Once figure out the right wires cut the wire strip back then twist your new cable and solder the join then wrap in tape. Repeat three more times :) I cut into my homemade adepter cables, so if the car was crashed I could remove my mods and return the car back to normal :)

Still got to put this clock into my car, I have a analogue one and it nice but this rarer.

PICTURES:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r71/Sparkington/P6030103.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r71/Sparkington/P6030101.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r71/Sparkington/P6030107.jpg

Allan
30-11-2010, 08:15 PM
Replacing the Coolant Sensor TR Magna

TOPIC: Repacing the Coolant Sensor
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR
DIFFICULTY: Very Easy
TOOLS NEEDED: 21mm Long Socket or adjustable spanner
ITEMS NEEDED: New Coolant Sensor ($35 at Super Cheap Auto - Not in stock same day delivery if ordered before 1pm)
EXTRA INFORMATION: nil.
LINKS: www.aussiemagna.com

To replace the coolant sensor you first need to locate it, it is a small brass part with connection on one end located at the bottom left of your radiator just to the right of the bottom hose. Once you do find it, disconnect the wiring, then you will need to use a long socket like a spark plug socket to get it out or just a spanner or shifter if you dont have one. Once you have it removed place the new sensor into position, tighten it, replace the wiring and you are done.

Atreidae
09-03-2011, 06:09 PM
TOPIC: Clutch replacement.

MODELS APPLICABLE: 2.6L manual gen 2.


I did this on my v6 and I must admit, having to drain the cooling system because a pipe is bolted to the transmission is stupid!

Also.. for anyone doing this, there are the 2 high tensile bolts that hold the longer driveshaft to the block on that stupid arm thingy... make sure you loctite these or so them up super tight (they are in an awkward spot) I had these fall out and lost my propshaft at 100KMH! thought I had done a crank!

cabletie69
29-11-2011, 07:27 PM
to remove V6 gearbox TR/TS
MODELS APPLICABLE: TR / TS verada

drain gearbox oil
undo outer cv nut
undo cv boots at the gearbox leave the spline attached to the gearbox

all you have to do is replace the boot straps


G'day magna buff, I am hoping you can help me out- I am replacing the complete trans. assembly on this model and am wondering if I can leave the cv bolted into the hub, disconnect the steering and wishbone ball joints, and prise the axle out of the gearbox whilst pivotting the hub assembly away from the g/box . your advice would be appreciated Thanks

MadMax
29-11-2011, 07:51 PM
G'day magna buff, I am hoping you can help me out- I am replacing the complete trans. assembly on this model and am wondering if I can leave the cv bolted into the hub, disconnect the steering and wishbone ball joints, and prise the axle out of the gearbox whilst pivotting the hub assembly away from the g/box . your advice would be appreciated Thanks

Not do-able. You need to have the drive shafts out of the way before you can get to the wishbone ball joints. Not possible to get a separator tool on it otherwise. Even if you did pull it apart, you need to put a torque wrench on the ball joint nut when you reassemble. Impossible with the driveshafts still in the hub.