Hi,
I've recently picked up a AWD but have been noticing some issues with the auto. Moving from P into R or D the car revs a bit before engaging? I have booked it in for a tranny service - full flush, etc & hope that this is the reason for this, although a transmission place did suggest it might be clutch plates?
Also, what speed should I be doing before it'll shift into 5th? My TL won't allow me to shift into 4th until just over 60 but the TJ will shift from 3rd to 4th at around 40, then it automatically goes into 5th. Unless I use tiptronic I can't actually get the car to remain in 4th. So is driving around at 45 - 50 kph in 5th normal? Seems a bit low to me with the revs sitting on 1100 or thereabouts.
Lastly, the statutory warranty for a 2nd hand car- what does it cover? RACV website says what it doesn't cover- lights, aerial, stereo, etc but covers all other mechanical parts of the car? This should cover the transmission? I'm 3000ks into the warranty but have had the dealer check the car out already & they agree there is something a bit strange with the auto but suggested starting with the flush etc. This will be in 2 weeks by which time I'll be well over the 5000ks. Will this matter as they've been made aware of the issue before the warranty expired, or will I be left with the bill?

Cheers

EDIT: Also at what point should the auto shift into 2nd gear? After putting high flow TB on the other day 1st 2 changes were around 2200 rpm, really smooth, then Mitsu man adjusted the TPS & all the changes occur around 1800rpm. Normal? I know I can use the tiptronic mode & over-ride it, but that defeats the purpose of buying an auto :think:

My TL awd tranny shifts into 5th at around 50 - 60km / hr too

i think its fine if your not trying to drive uphill / put the engine under any form of big load - when im cruising at 60 and about to go uphill, il knock it back to 4th or 3rd if im in a hurry.


also in regards to your warrenty issue, as you have brought it to thier attention before the end of the warrenty period, if they are a reasonable dealership they will honour the claim with no out of pocket expense to you.
your best bet with what is covered and what isnt is to read any documentation that you may have gotten when you purchased the car.
if your still unsure, talk to the dealership about it all - get stuff in writing too if it all sounds too good to be true.

You should be covered cause you mentioned it within warranty. Document it and make sure they give you something in writing to cover yourself in case of total failure outside of warranty.
Only issue i can see and i will quote you and highlight the issue. "EDIT: Also at what point should the auto shift into 2nd gear? After putting high flow TB on the other day 1st 2 changes were around 2200 rpm, really smooth, then Mitsu man adjusted the TPS & all the changes occur around 1800rpm. Normal? I know I can use the tiptronic mode & over-ride it, but that defeats the purpose of buying an auto ."

You have modified the vehicle from standard and you also mentioned the TPS has been adjusted as well. This may not work in your favour if they know about it.

Regards

I presume the revving from P to R/D only occurs if you put your foot in the accelerator straight away, not on just idle revs? If so thats pretty normal, mine does that and so has every other 3rd gen I've driven. Its to cater for those who decide to shift back to D after reversing out of a parking space before they stop completely and vice versa I believe.

The speeds your auto is shifting gears at sound odd to me, I know the four speed is different, but for example 4th (top gear) doesn't engage anywhere below 60km/h, I would have thought 5th of the 5 speed would be a similar thing, since it is the cruising gear. Changing into 5th at such low speeds would be an absolute pain in the ****, it'd mean you'd have to wait for a gear change every time you accelerate.

I don't know about you but I'm no expect with the mechanics of cars, and I'm not game to fiddle with something like the transmission, I'd be getting it checked out, maybe serviced at the same time just to be safe.

AWD trannies also take ~2 sec to engage from P to R, and they roll while it it happening. They have a few oddities. 5th is the gear that is selected around town at 50-60 kmh. I don't like that much, but thats the way it is.

G'day,
I found "Teaching" my transmission by using the tiptronic to hold 4th till 70, and seems to improve when it goes into 5th in auto mode. Did this after disconnecting the battery. Might be worth a try?

Hi,
I've recently picked up a AWD but have been noticing some issues with the auto. Moving from P into R or D the car revs a bit before engaging?

I have booked it in for a tranny service - full flush, etc & hope that this is the reason for this, although a transmission place did suggest it might be clutch plates?

Also, what speed should I be doing before it'll shift into 5th? My TL won't allow me to shift into 4th until just over 60 but the TJ will shift from 3rd to 4th at around 40, then it automatically goes into 5th. Unless I use tiptronic I can't actually get the car to remain in 4th. So is driving around at 45 - 50 kph in 5th normal? Seems a bit low to me with the revs sitting on 1100 or thereabouts.

Lastly, the statutory warranty for a 2nd hand car- what does it cover? RACV website says what it doesn't cover- lights, aerial, stereo, etc but covers all other mechanical parts of the car? This should cover the transmission? I'm 3000ks into the warranty but have had the dealer check the car out already & they agree there is something a bit strange with the auto but suggested starting with the flush etc.

This will be in 2 weeks by which time I'll be well over the 5000ks. Will this matter as they've been made aware of the issue before the warranty expired, or will I be left with the bill?

Cheers

EDIT: Also at what point should the auto shift into 2nd gear? After putting high flow TB on the other day 1st 2 changes were around 2200 rpm, really smooth, then Mitsu man adjusted the TPS & all the changes occur around 1800rpm. Normal? I know I can use the tiptronic mode & over-ride it, but that defeats the purpose of buying an auto :think:

Since that makes my head hurt reading it, I'll put some PARAGRAPHS in for the benefit of everyone else.

There is a way to reduce the P/R gap. Supposedly for the TE-TH, but a few people reckon it works for the AWD - I havn't tried it yet though, cant hurt.

The full flush is probably going to be beneficial if the TX fluid colour is brown and yuk, but its not clutch plates. They also require a different fluid to the normal autos, if they use the wrong type you are in for a world of hurt.

AWD's seem to think they are diesels for some reason (up hill at 50K in 5th FFS!) Annoying. I solved it but it cost money (force air into engine :badgrin:) It doesn't labour any more now lol

Statutory warrantee is basically non-wear items. Purchased (extended) warantees aren't worth the paper they are written on! :doubt:

Cheers
Heath Young

My TL Awd, which I've had from new, does the same as what you are describing. Its been mentioned before on this forum I think. By all accounts its normal. You'll get used to it. When I back out of my drive I pull it into D just before I stop rolling back. By the time the car has stopped its ready to roll in 1st.
re changing into 5th at low speed. Its an auto, Whats the problem? Better fuel economy if its not labouring. It'll change back when it needs to.
The factory fitted clunks in the front suspension annoy me more than anything.

regards
bollie7

My TL Awd, which I've had from new, does the same as what you are describing. Its been mentioned before on this forum I think. By all accounts its normal. You'll get used to it. When I back out of my drive I pull it into D just before I stop rolling back. By the time the car has stopped its ready to roll in 1st.
re changing into 5th at low speed. Its an auto, Whats the problem? Better fuel economy if its not labouring. It'll change back when it needs to.
The factory fitted clunks in the front suspension annoy me more than anything.

regards
bollie7


thats a little bit of a contridiction there, if the engine is in too high a gear, its going to be working harder with less output than if it was in say 4th doing the same work.

IMO - its easier on the engine and transmission to manually select a lower gear until your over the hill etc, because while the TCU knows that its starting to labor up and will think about changing down more often than not it makes the kickdown when your nearing the top of the hill! lol

i think most of us here when we want the car to drop a gear, just push your foot a liiiiiiittle further down and the tranny will get the idea and drop back a gear or two.

and yes - clunks in front suspsion annoy me too :P i only get them now though on my driveway, and i learnt to avoid the point that makes it all clunk which is good!

Thanks for the info guys. So it appears there may not be much wrong at all, except it needs the oil changed & perhaps a reset, so it'll get used to my driving style..

I'm still concerned about it going to 5th so early though, because it never wants to sit in 4th. The car will sit in 3rd if I'm not going fast enough, but won't do it in 4th at all? It always goes into 5th, no matter what. Likewise when I press the accelerator in 5th and it drops down a gear it bypasses 4th & hits 3rd instead..

I've booked the car in & had a chat with the service manager who said pretty much what was said here & reckons at this stage they'll cover the cost of the transmission service. The warranty will cover the transmission, if needed but based on what I've told him he doesn't think that'll be necessary. Will have to wait & see, I guess.

Thanks..

found that text in heathyoungs thumbnail of intrest

relearning an auto programme

only after an auto repair or ECU replacement

seems the setting and relearning needs to be done more often than that
with some autos :nuts:

There is a way to reduce the P/R gap. Supposedly for the TE-TH, but a few people reckon it works for the AWD - I havn't tried it yet though, cant hurt.


The guy who sold me my car (agostino mitsubishi in Adelaide) showed me how to do this on the test drive. It works on the AWD's, until it re-learnt my then grandpa driving style (after the camry I owned!). Now, it jumps off at the lights too quickly because of my change in driving style in sydney. Does little bunny hops if I punch it around corners from a standstill. I hate the 5th gear at 50km/h thing too.

lol Sounds to me like it's working just fine :doubt: At least its good for about 500nm - which it needs.

Wait 'tis I get these manifolds sorted and your AWD will be an entirely new car - I promise.

My AWD has been the inspiration for the manifold project -> some people see a 2tn 90kwatw pos, I see a V6 Evo :D

Getting a tranny cooler was a good investment too. Just need more power......

My TL AWD Auto gearbox might be on it's last legs.
Can I put a TJ AWD auto gearbox onto a TL AWD Magna. The TL doesn't have a speedo connection on the transmission, but a TJ does.
What colour is everyones auto gear box oil?

My TL AWD Auto gearbox might be on it's last legs.
Can I put a TJ AWD auto gearbox onto a TL AWD Magna. The TL doesn't have a speedo connection on the transmission, but a TJ does.
What colour is everyones auto gear box oil?

should be bright red.

My TL AWD Auto gearbox might be on it's last legs.
Can I put a TJ AWD auto gearbox onto a TL AWD Magna. The TL doesn't have a speedo connection on the transmission, but a TJ does.
What colour is everyones auto gear box oil?

1: Why do you say your gearbox is on the way out? Description of symptoms would help.

2: TJ & TL have the same engine just different body, cosmetics etc, so I'd assume they've got the same gearbox, both being AWD, of course.
3: Oil should be red, if not it prob needs changing.

The oil is brown and when I took the bottom drain plug out, two pieces of metal came out. eg
like part of a shim or spacer, 3cm x 3mm x 0.5mm thick.

Apparently the Mitsubishi dealer said the TJ and TL gear boxes have different part numbers. The TJ has the speedo gear connection and the TL doesn't, so some internal electrical part might be different.