I have put pacemakers, straight through pipe instead of front muffler and put high flow rear muffler on my TJ VRX also have K&N air filter Is it worth spending $1175 to have a Haltech piggyback ECU fitted and tuned?????

not for just an aftermarket zorst and a k+n filter:nuts:
maybe if you where to mod the engine wheather it be setting up for big kw's n/a or supercharge it or turbo it then yea for sure but till then can't justify 1100 bucks cos you changed your zorst:nuts:

if ur going to get a haltech get the miniceptor its around 600 bucks and basically the same as the interceptor. hope that helps lol

mike

just stick some ralli art cams in it, to make the most out of the Piggy back. they are really cheap compaired to aftermarket cams which are around $1000+ mark
EDIT: but they are not as aggressive as aftermarket cams

they are also the same cams as a 380. However, as a rough guide, they are only roughly equivalent to a stage 0.5 cam.

I think they only gave an extra 10% lift. I'm not 100% sure, i think TZABOY knows.

they are also the same cams as a 380. However, as a rough guide, they are only roughly equivalent to a stage 0.5 cam.

I think they only gave an extra 10% lift. I'm not 100% sure, i think TZABOY knows.

the 380 cams are $530 a bank too:rant:

the 380 cams are $530 a bank too:rant:

eh? i got quoted 270 a stick for 380 cams a few weeks ago, only issue was they were waiting on more rear banks to come in, (they should have them by now).

eh? i got quoted 270 a stick for 380 cams a few weeks ago, only issue was they were waiting on more rear banks to come in, (they should have them by now).

that was the quote at orange Mitsubishi. the nearest place that sells ralliart cams around here is wagga and i was quoted $270 a bank

that was the quote at orange Mitsubishi. the nearest place that sells ralliart cams around here is wagga and i was quoted $270 a bank

i take it wagga mitsi is a ralliart dealer? as all of the mitsi dealers in newy/CC arent able to touch ralliart gear i need to get them from ralliart dealers. Weird :nuts:

I have put pacemakers, straight through pipe instead of front muffler and put high flow rear muffler on my TJ VRX also have K&N air filter Is it worth spending $1175 to have a Haltech piggyback ECU fitted and tuned?????

Depends on your sense of worth..

Will you get good bang for buck? Probably not.

Will it make a noticeable difference to how the car feels to drive? Yes.

You stand to make 5-10kW ATW from this with a good tune.

Hi, im also looking to get one….

In my opinion it’s definitely worth it as a LAST performance upgrade, after you have done everything you wanted like eg., intake (CAI), full exhaust, cams. So if you are not planning to do anything else to your car then get it now.

I think it’s probably a waste of money to buy it first and then retuning your piggyback every time you make a performance upgrade considering $100 an hour dyno costs.

But that’s just my opinion.

how many people have them what was the cost fitted and tuned ???:confused:

Hi, im also looking to get one….

In my opinion it’s definitely worth it as a LAST performance upgrade, after you have done everything you wanted like eg., intake (CAI), full exhaust, cams. So if you are not planning to do anything else to your car then get it now.

I think it’s probably a waste of money to buy it first and then retuning your piggyback every time you make a performance upgrade considering $100 an hour dyno costs.

But that’s just my opinion.

The problem with that approach is that the more mods you do the further away from optimal your car can get, especially if you start doing internal mods like cams (unless you go for something mild, in which case, why bother in the first place?). Also, once you've got a good base tune in the ECU the tuner will only need another hour, maybe an hour and a half tops, to refine that map for your new mods, so it's not as much of a money sink as you might expect.

The problem with that approach is that the more mods you do the further away from optimal your car can get, especially if you start doing internal mods like cams (unless you go for something mild, in which case, why bother in the first place?). Also, once you've got a good base tune in the ECU the tuner will only need another hour, maybe an hour and a half tops, to refine that map for your new mods, so it's not as much of a money sink as you might expect.

Yea i can see your point, it wouldnt cost as much to retune after the initial tune.

for me, im getting my unichip installed and tuned at this very moment. only mods ive done is zorst, and CAI, with high flowed TB. maybe down the track will port the heads, replace cams etc, but with scoring this chip second hand i thought i would give it a go.

for those of you interested, i will post up the results tonight. maybe tomorrow and let you know what the difference is.

i think the unichip and haltech intercepter are fiarly similar, so it should give you a bit of an idea on what to expect.

note this is only gonna cost me $800/$900 all up, so yeh, a bit cheaper as the chip was second hand.

just drove back this arvo with my car tuned.
i noticed straight away an increase midrange.
as for the dyno readout, it really didnt show much at all hey,
would post it up but i dont have a camera or scanner atm.

as for fuel economy. will run out a tank and see how it goes.

honesty though, even though it cost me $900, i dont think it justified the price. not yet anyway. note but i havn't done my extractors, only my muffler. :confused:

but yeh. i would recommend, do it with some cams, at the minimum.

my goal, if i have any money left over from my loan, pacemaker extractors, intake manifold, cams, headwork. and i think that should do it.

not sure where to go after this anyway.

just drove back this arvo with my car tuned.
i noticed straight away an increase midrange.
as for the dyno readout, it really didnt show much at all hey,
would post it up but i dont have a camera or scanner atm.

as for fuel economy. will run out a tank and see how it goes.

honesty though, even though it cost me $900, i dont think it justified the price. not yet anyway. note but i havn't done my extractors, only my muffler. :confused:

but yeh. i would recommend, do it with some cams, at the minimum.

my goal, if i have any money left over from my loan, pacemaker extractors, intake manifold, cams, headwork. and i think that should do it.

not sure where to go after this anyway.

What are your before after figures?

129kwatw before
131kwatw after.

so sweet fa in terms of max kw.
but there was an increase in low, midrange rpm.

need to get my transmission serviced really badly but.

im thinking do the extractors, manifold, cams all at once then tune, see how that goes.

Hey, max power doesnt matter that much anyhow, you dont want a peaky engine on a magna, we already got fairly large flat spot at up to 2000-2500 rpms as it is. Chasing top end power will increase that flat spot even further, thus making the car really poor performer on day to day basis.

About the dyno, i can see its only a little impovement in top end. How does the curve look like, do you get more power in low & mid rpms, by how much roughly?

129kwatw before
131kwatw after.

so sweet fa in terms of max kw.
but there was an increase in low, midrange rpm.

need to get my transmission serviced really badly but.

im thinking do the extractors, manifold, cams all at once then tune, see how that goes.
whoa... are you sure that was your before read out...also is that at the hubs or at the wheels, cos it is a massive figure for at the wheels...i have 137kw at the wheels with all of my mods (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/member.php?u=4199), so i am kinda bit suss on those figures/tuner otherwise that is a figure of 187kw at the fly with a muffler change and a filter...somehow i dont think a filter and a muffler change can give that sort of output

129kwatw before
131kwatw after.

so sweet fa in terms of max kw.
but there was an increase in low, midrange rpm.

need to get my transmission serviced really badly but.

im thinking do the extractors, manifold, cams all at once then tune, see how that goes.

Strange, it seems the usual result for a tuned piggyback on here is 5-8 wheel kw. Are there variables that may have skewed results? Did you tune for 98octane?

Also ~130fwkw is a bit optmistic, based on what autos normally get (110-120kw).


Hey, max power doesnt matter that much anyhow, you dont want a peaky engine on a magna, we already got fairly large flat spot at up to 2000-2500 rpms as it is. Chasing top end power will increase that flat spot even further, thus making the car really poor performer on day to day basis.

About the dyno, i can see its only a little impovement in top end. How does the curve look like, do you get more power in low & mid rpms, by how much roughly?

I don't agree with this, there shouldnt be any kind of flat-spot around 2000-2500rpm unless you are using a POD filter, stuopidly large exhaust etc.

In the OP's case he should have gained some power across the board, including at the top end. low-rpm loss is only becomes noticeable when you are using "big" cams, and even then it's generally not as bad as most people would expect. Look at the ralliart, it is stronger across the rpm range, not just the top end. This is because it simply runs 10% more lift with no extra cam duration.

im gonna take it to another dyno. make sure its shootout. and give that a go i think,
coz i dont think its right either.


ooohhh. wait a minute. its hp. not kw.
soo using a hp to kw convert it went from 96. to 97. gah. doesnt seem f***ing right at all.
hmm. i think i will def get a re run. and if its still that low, then theres prob something wrong with my car, or the tune.

im gonna take it to another dyno. make sure its shootout. and give that a go i think,
coz i dont think its right either.


ooohhh. wait a minute. its hp. not kw.
soo using a hp to kw convert it went from 96. to 97. gah. doesnt seem f***ing right at all.
hmm. i think i will def get a re run. and if its still that low, then theres prob something wrong with my car, or the tune.

yeh def somthin wrong there. you should of got around 150hp before. take it back i reckon, and tell him your 155kw eng. standard should = around 105-110kwatw standard and he is pulling a chain somewhere

yeh def somthin wrong there. you should of got around 150hp before. take it back i reckon, and tell him your 155kw eng. standard should = around 105-110kwatw standard and he is pulling a chain somewhere

i got 115.5 with just a muffler and k&n running an AFR of 11.something low :bowrofl: you should have around 120-125 give or take with a piggyback of some description unless they didnt compensate the heat with the shootout runs

I don't agree with this, there shouldnt be any kind of flat-spot around 2000-2500rpm unless you are using a POD filter, stuopidly large exhaust etc.



My car has no big mods, all i got is K&N panel filter, with a muffler. I do get a flat spot up 2500 rpms. And i know heaps of people who will agree with me.